A few weeks ago I received my final pair of Foster & Son bespoke shoes. The process has, unfortunately, been both good and bad.
First, the good. The fitting I had with John Spencer – Foster’s lastmaker – was impressive. The fit around the heel cup was spot on, which is particularly important to the fit of a shoe, and particularly required for me as I have a very slim heel and ankle.
As you can see in the images lower down, that bespoke fit on a slim heel is also beautiful – one of the most attractive aspects of a finished bespoke shoe.
When I received the final shoe, the fit was even better. Not only perfect in the heel but with exactly the right amount of room for my toes to move freely.
It was the best fit (in a first shoe) I have had from any of the bespoke shoemakers I’ve used (Cleverley, Santoni, Stefano Bemer, Norman Villalta, Tim Little, Gaziano & Girling).
The only thing that could have been improved was the arch of the foot, which had some excess leather. Interestingly, this is something most makers have struggled with, with the exception of Saint Crispin’s (review coming soon).
The last and toe shape was a little unusual – ‘banana shaped’ as some of the Italian makers call it. Essentially, the inside line of the shoe (A, above) was straighter and the outside line (B) more bent than any other last shape I’ve had made.
I have wide joints (where the toes meet the foot) so there is some width to get around. But other makers have angled the inside line more, to make both inside and outside more similar. Compare them to my first Cleverleys as an example.
It’s not something I feel strongly about, particularly as you only notice it when looking from the top, which no one but myself will do. But on balance I would have that changed.
Elsewhere the make of the shoe is lovely. Fine closing, a closely sculpted waist and neat welt. Nothing extreme in the waist like a G&G Deco or my Bemer bespoke, but still very elegant.
You can see the effect of that sculpted waist in the image above, where the sole effectively disappears halfway along the shoe. The look is so much lighter.
My favourite area of bespoke making is the heel, however.
Look at the heel cup from the side (above). Not only does it follow a lovely, bespoke line around my heel and up into the ankle (C), but the heel stack of the shoe itself is pitched forward (D), continuing that line.
Some bespoke shoes don’t use a pitched heel anymore and I think it’s a real shame. Without being anywhere near as extreme as a Cuban heel, you can get a lovely angle that is much more in keeping with the curved line of the heel cup above it.
The other aspects of the heel you notice when you turn the shoe upside down – above you can see the sides curve inwards (E) to segue into the trim line of the waist.
Of course, some RTW shoes have the same lines (eg Deco) and other bespoke makers (largely Japanese) are more extreme. But I find it striking how much I enjoy the way that shoe’s heel is shaped to mine. So many heels suddenly look very square and clunky.
Unfortunately, there were some significant problems with the finishing of the Foster’s shoes.
When I first received them, the height of the polish and variation in colour was beautiful. That’s the finish you can see in the images at the top of this post, and I mentioned how impressed I was on Instagram at the time.
But that polish quickly began to chip away. Within three days’ wear, large chips of the polish started to come off, making the colour patchy and horrible. (Unfortunately I didn’t take pictures at this stage.)
It turned out this was because the extreme colour effect had been attempted just with polish, rather than dye, and on aniline leather, which is much harder to add colour to than a crust leather.
Foster’s offered to redo the finish, and stripped back most of the colour. But that left black streaks around the welt and a pale patch on the toe where too much had been taken away.
In the end, I took the shoes to another patina-artist who was able to give them the colour you can see on all these other pictures. That wasn’t easy on aniline either, but I’m pleased we were able to rescue them.
City makers such as Foster’s, Lobb and Cleverley have never done much finishing of shoes. But they need to get it right when they do more.
If I had paid full price (I only paid for the cost of materials in this case) I would have been very unimpressed. In fact it might put the normal buyer off bespoke shoes entirely.
So a tale of two halves, but hopefully something Foster’s can correct given the fundamentals of a great bespoke service are all there.
Top images: Jamie Ferguson @jkf_man, at Cifonelli in Paris
Simon,
My godfather used to say to me (and admittedly he was very old fashioned English): “if you want anything beautifully cut, go English, if you want anything beautifully finished, go Italian”. Your posts seem to be reaffirming this – e.g. your English shirts were well-cut on the body but the styles of collar never worked. Do please say if I’m missing something but the shoes appear to “reinforce”…
J
I agree in that English makers of various sorts are often not good at finishing. Although on the other hand, a lot of Neapolitans are pretty sloppy with their finishing on tailoring (even if it is by hand).
I’d also disagree that the English are necessarily better at cutting – there isn’t much evidence there really.
So perhaps, as with most things, a kernel of truth in the saying.
Hi S, the colour finishing point is a real shame, I am sorry to hear that.
If budget permits, would you still say that the go-to bespoke shoe maker for a first pair are G&G or Stefano Bemer?
Thanks much,
M
It depends on style too – see my point about differences between G&G and Cleverley.
Yes, I understand that Cleverley shoes are typically ‘lighter’ whilst G&G’s construct is more like other Northampton manufacturers (i.e. ‘heavier’ and takes more time to soften but becomes very comfortable once it shapes around your foot after a few wears). But unless I misread something , it still sounds that the level of ‘finishing’ is better with G&G? Plus, it looks like they are one of the few English shoemakers who seem to be mastering perfectly coloring techniques… This also perhaps explains the price premium for G&G vs. Cleverley.
Keen to hear your thoughts.
Best,
M
On colouring, absolutely G&G are a lot better. They have the ability to do patina-work like a Corthay or Berluti, which other English makers don’t.
Simon,
Interesting review. I have been considering commissioning a bespoke pair of shoes from Foster’s for the last couple of months. Needless to say I will not be bothering now. I presume that the retail cost of such a pair of shoes would be in the order of £1400 ? Incidentally I notice that there seems to be some on line comments that Lobb have abandoned their ‘Parisian Museum’ colour for a brown ‘misty’ colour. Have you come across this ? Paul
Hi Paul,
No, the starting price is £3000… You won’t find any bespoke in London for the price you quote. Saint Crispin’s altered last would be the closest.
And on Lobb, I think you’re referring to John Lobb on Jermyn Street, which is only ready-to-wear shoes (and owned by Hermes). The bespoke operation is a different company, John Lobb Ltd, and is round the corner on St James’s.
Simon
Wow. I am staggered. I clearly hadn’t done nearly enough research. For the shoes not to be perfect at that price beggars belief.
Well, nothing is perfect. But bespoke makers need to realise that they are selling a real luxury product, and that things like quality control need to be just as good if not better than with ready-to-wear.
Hopefully I have also described sufficiently how much better the make and fit is than a ready to wear shoe. If you’ve read much about bespoke shoemaking you’ll realise quite how much unique work goes into a pair.
For St. Crispin modified last, is it best to wait and be fitted by them on one of their trunk shows? The folks at the Armoury claim they can do the fitting themselves. This is tempting, but also a bit scary if they don’t do a great job fitting the shoe.
In my experience so far I’d say wait for Philip, but then that’s only one experience
S, would you happen to know if St Crispin is coming to London for a trunk show anytime soon? I have not seen a review of their made-to-measure and bespoke offering but I think you mentioned that you were writing a piece on them soon?
Thanks,
M
Yes, I’ll publish a review on them next week. Last time I spoke to Phillip he wasn’t sure when he would be back in the UK.
I’m considering the Cleverleys, a black wholecut oxford with a great finish. I’ll have to have that discussion with them although im questioning the arrangement… I mean whom would you prefer if we’re talking G&G and Cleverley?
Have you read what I have written specifically before on that comparison?
For fantastic finishing and patina it’s hard to match Bontoni. This small group of Italian artisans do some incredible work.
Interesting, I find it hard to separate the patina work between different makers. There are small points of quality, but otherwise it’s just subjective aesthetics
Speaking of that, what is your take on Bontoni, Simon? How would you compare them to Santoni and also the top Northampton makers in terms of make (EG, G&G, Lobb)?
Thanks much,
M
You mentionned before that you wouldn’t suggest to have too many different tailors. Would you say that’s also true for shoemakers?
Yes, even more so given the smaller amount of variety in styles
Just recently had my first fitting with Andy Murphy who was visiting NYC. As an old man with narrow feet and falling arches, I was far more concerned with the fit than the finish. The heel cup was spot on and the support through the arches was most welcome. The “banana” around the left foot’s joint was slightly too tight and will result in excess wear if not adjusted. Frankly, I view the investment as prostheses for my feet and a far superior solution to continued the health of my feet, legs, and spine than a series of visits to a podiatrist.
Completely understand your points but I’d like to play opposing advocate if I may. Fosters et al are traditional English shoemakers and have a more standard finish as such. I question that the style of finish you requested was outside their normal process or oeuvre and, as such, did not work out. Another consideration, having followed the blog for many years, is that your sense of style; broad, international and informed as it is, has an expectation that is now more European rather than traditionally British. I agree re. G&G re. the finishing (I suspect that it is their in-house specialist that delivered the patination?) but for me they are too fashionably Italian in their shape (generally a very pointed toe area). So what we have, essentially, is a conflict of aesthetic traditions – particularly with regards to finishing. Your call for improvement may well be valid but the key is that the Italian finish (think dry, warm Italy) may not be in keeping with the British environment (wet, colder and in winter laiden with salt) ergo the single colour, deep polish (sans wax), Goodyear welt (vs. Blake) is about weather resistant function as well as style. On matters bespoke have you considered Nicholas Templeman – ex Lobb and now out on his own – his online site shows some lovely work.
Thanks. Yes you make some good points, although:
– I didn’t request a highly polished or patina finish, merely antiquing as indicated on another shoe
– My favourite style is actually not patina, but plain Northampton burnishing as EG and GG do on normal shoes. It’s more English, more subtle, and I prefer it. But London makers can’t do this either as they don’t have burnishing machines
– Patina finish is actually more impervious to weather
– Most important, if you’re going to do something like this finish, you need to be absolutely sure you’ll get it right
And yes on Nicholas! Great stuff
Fosters were my first foray into bespoke footwear. My last was made by Terry Moore before he retired.
Unfortunately I had the opposite problem to you. The shoe looked wonderful but they didn’t manage to nail the fit. Also, there were a number of problems of communication and timing (due I think to the company going through some internal changes).
I still wear the shoes, but I never went back. Instead I went to Cleverleys and have been a happy customer ever since.
Simon,
Thank you very much for this review. For me, your comments and photos explained very clearly in one place the elements that should distinguish bespoke shoes from good quality RTW. You may wish to file it on the site so that later readers realise its value goes far beyond a review of a maker they might never use.
Hi Simon,
this is a bit off-topic but i could not find a recent tie-related blog entry so here it goes: Could you shed some light on “Viola Milano”? You mentioned some of their products, their stockists seem legit and their prices on par with Hermes and Drakes. However I cannot find anything on the history of the brand at all. So I would assume it’s a new operation? Do they contract other tie makers? do they have a workshop? Is the quality good? Unfortunately it seems I would have to order only without seeing the product first (no local stockists) so an assessment would be appreciated.
Thanks!
Hey.
Yeah, they’re a recent start-up, just online, but I have a few of their things and it’s good. They don’t have their own manufacture – just design and have it made elsewhere. Definitely worth trying.
Viola Milano actually invested in one of the great factories in the south of Italy quite recently so they at least owns part of their manufacture.
regarding the quality I think they are a lot better than in the beginning but I can’t really say if they are better or in line with Drake´s or Hermès. I think it´s mostly a question of personal preference.
Thanks Andreas, and good point on the factory
I’m not sure the use of the word patina is appropriate in this context, as patina is something that develops over time and therefore cannot exist when something is new.
In French the word to describe what you refer to Simon as Northampton burnish is “cirage”, and for a highly polished finish it is “glacage”
Thanks. I agree, patina is really something that develops over time. However, glacage is also used for just the build up of polish on a shoe, not for the effect of dyes. And most people using dyes refer to themselves as patina artists, or as creating a patina.
Perhaps to be clearest, it’s best just to separate them my method: polish, dye and burnish.
Not really. Cirage is the build up of polish. Glacage is how you get the build up of polish to go very shiny.
Interesting. Not how I know any of the shoemakers or patina-artists use glacage, but I guess a mis-use as so much language is
Hi Simon,
Very useful article. Are you able to please roughly list the various bespoke makers in your article from lowest to highest price? Also, if W&S is the best starting point for a bespoke suit (in terms of price/value ratio) who, in your opinion, is the equivalent for bespoke shoes?
Many thanks,
NJR
I think that’s probably best done in a separate piece, though there aren’t that many different levels of makers in shoes, unlike tailoring. Apart from someone like Tim Little, most are around the same amount.
Hi, Simon. I’ve been following your writing for a quite while, and really appreciate your efforts to promote/consolidate the value of great traditional artisans.
There is a question in my mind that always confuses me…I have a pair of Carmina oxfords, they start to “squeak” right after 2-3 hrs wearing. the noise sounds pretty much like the air is being pushed out from the shoes, sometimes it embarrass me while walking in the office. After some search, it seems happen quite commonly among the others. Some said it is caused by a bad fit, but that pair has fairly snug fit. Even tighter than my other Goodyear welted shoes, will now i haven’t found any workaround(some suggested to pour some foot powder in between insole and shoe…which sounds odd to me).
So i am wondering if you could share your thought on it, that would be much appreciated.
Simon,
any chance of ever getting any of your shoes done by one of the Warsaw / Polish shoemakers and doing a review here?
Regards,
Tom
Yes, I’d like to – I did some posts on them years ago just from visiting. But I wouldn’t say they’re top of my list to have something made unfortunately.
Simon,
I am not sure this would be possible, but is there any ranking you might consider as to your experiences in bespoke outfitting?
Do you think a ‘star’ or number/points system is in order?
Is there any experience (coats, suiting, footware, etc.) that you would rate as being superior above all, or as close as one could expect in trying to satisfy that impossible to tag feeling of satisfaction?
Looking forward to your reply.
It’s very hard, as you anticipated. First, because you are rating them on so many things, like fit, finish, value for money, style, and some of those things are subjective. There is also the complication with tailors that you are often getting the experience of one cutter among a few. So my experience at Huntsman was not great, but that cutter is no longer there.
Having said all that, regular reading hopefully builds up that body of recommendation, given criticisms here and there, and descriptions or pictures of the products that really speak to your taste personally.
Hey, did you happen to be at Marinella today? 🙂 Was rushing between meetings to leave with them a tie for cleaning and I thought I might have seen you checking on some ties while I was leaving. Not sure but would have been a funny coincidence or you do have a twin somewhere out there!
Absolutely, it was me!
Ha! I am sure we will have other occasions to meet up! I was in Paris today, not far from Rue Marbeuf, so I took advantage of that to pay a visit to your friend Lorenzo… What a lovely guy. I could not resist the temptation of commissioning a first suit with him in his famous 6×1 DB in a beautiful VBC navy fabric… Thanks again for being such a prolific source for craft lovers, Simon! M
Sounds amazing….
Simon:
A lot of interesting information in this post. In my case, very timely as well, as I’ve been messing around with different last shapes.
So, you note that you would have preferred a more symmetrical toe shape — i.e. less curved to the inside. Is that for aesthetic reasons? In terms of fit, do you notice a difference in how these Fosters fit, vs. your more standard toe shapes? Certainly the banana shape may be a more ergonomically correct shape (less pinching and lateral dislocation of the big toe), but I would be interested in how they feel on your feet. Given the width of your forefoot, and particularly the outside joint, perhaps this much swing to the last was a bit of an unusual decision (although that would also depend on how long your various toes are and other factors). Certainly, relative to the Terry Moore lasts I’ve seen, this is a bit anomalous (Terry trained John, I believe). Did John have any comments for why he chose such a curved shape for your lasts?
A broader point which, I think, the London firms are still slow to recognize: at 3000 GBP per pair, they are selling a luxury good (I believe you reference this yourself). I don’t think, in terms of the experience or the process, that they understand that reality yet. Perhaps Tony Gaziano or Nicholas Templeman does, but the bigger firms do not seem to. To fail to do a fitter shoe, at this price point, seems inexplicable to me. It is quite apparent that there is excess leather in the waist, as you note. Maybe, in the old days, customers wouldn’t have noticed, or cared. Today, at these prices, I think they will have a different point of view.
When I got interested in bespoke shoes, say 12 years ago, I think the going price was around 1200 GBP. To have a 150% price increase, when inflation has been perhaps 40% (say 2.5% per annum, compounded), is putting these shoes in a whole ‘nother realm. Not to say it’s not justified or undertstandable (Baumol’s cost disease), but I think the firms need to rethink some of their business practices.
Thanks, and an interesting perspective yourself. To answer your questions, no the fit is no better than say my G&G bespoke, which doesn’t have that swing in the toe line. If anything the fit of the second G&G (Adelaides) is the best of any bespoke shoe. Yes, Terry trained John, and I brought the shape up at the fitting, with John’s only comment being that it was to deal with those wide joints.
It’s a good point on prices, though I do think costs have had a fair bit to do with it (Mayfair rent, tanneries being bought up, travelling all over the world). And perhaps just as importantly, a lower volume of customers that makes efficiencies difficult and production harder to manage
Good of you to give an honest appraisal. Andie
The points on inflation are interesting. Overall inflation is an average measure based on cost increase of a prototypical basket of goods. However inflation in specific areas of the economy might always be higher or lower. If the specific costs associated with shoemaking have inflated faster (Simon mentioned Mayfair rent and leather), it’s not surprising that costs will rise faster than overall inflation. However it’s not a question of fault – the rise in prices relative to inflation has pushed these shoes much more firmly into the realm of luxury goods than maybe they used to be. The makers do need to recognize that they are in the luxury market and act accordingly.
Fosters made me a pair of bespoke shoes a few years back. They’ve sat in my wardrobe unworn ever since, I really should dig them out and wear them! I had a problem with the fit on one shoe and after various adjustments they remade the shoes for me. They never felt quite right and have lingered in the wardrobe ever since, which in itself is a crime. Will have to dig them out and hope that after a few wears the comfort will come. They look fantastic and the staff at Fosters were really good about my complaints. As Dr Johnson said – “vanity leads to folly”.
What kind of foot do you have then? Don’t you think an orthopedist would have done a better job?
Fair comment John. The problem was the instep on one shoe felt too pronounced. I’ve dug the shoes out and have worn them around the house with thinner socks and the fit feels good. Will have to take some pictures of them before the sole gets scratched. I went for the “Thomas” in oxblood. Simon is quite right with regards to the make as they really are top quality.
Hi Simon,
Presumably, you are already in the mood of the latest post on RTW, MTO and bespoke garments. But I happen to be stuck in the conversation over this one. And there are many reasons for that. For one, since I saw the first pic of these shoes on Instagram, I have been waiting for this review wondering what you would have to say.
But to be honest, I don’t think you have fully done justice to these shoes. The reason is fairly simple: Foster & Son (F&S) – arguably alongside with Lobb St James – are second to none of the whole shoemakers you have come to speak about on this site since its launching! Indeed, they are squarely above all!!! You have written about F&S as if you were writing about any shoemaker, yes as if they were crafting any kind of shoes for the market instead of “shoes with character”, as Will Boehlke once put it! And he is absolutely right! That is where – to me at least – you have missed the point in this review. Because F&S are not any shoemaker.
Perhaps, a bit history of British shoemaking was therefore necessary to begin with. And then, there are questions that automatically arise, such as their pecific place in the tradition of that craft in GB since the days when its leadership on the world stage was incontrovertible to anyone who really valued the cultural value of this craft. Yes, how do they relate to this tradition? How their way of crafting shoes today reflects their understanding of and their moorings to that tradition and the challenges it faces?
The shoes you have purchased are full of history, loaded with a specific tradition of a craft, which expectedly has willy nilly come to be tied to a specific understanding of elegance and a specific social world in sight, to which the “frimeur”, as the French would call it, doesn’t appear. This doesn’t mean that that world were void of the kind of folks who have their quirks and affectations. But those leanings remain constrained by the rules of “understated elegance” assumed within that specific tradition.
For sure time is changing, and the social world within which the shoe craft has hitherto evolved – be it in the UK or elsewhere – is changing too. Thus, your complaint about the finishing would be a signal to be heeded. But I doubt you meant F&S were become lousy at finishing. For I squarely can’t swallow that!
By the way, the art of coloring shoes that has taken hold first in France before spreading around the globe could be seen as an epiphenomenon of the shoe industry’s shaky state in that country.
I hope you will have an opportunity to write a second review up to the stakes of the cultural challenges related to the shoe craft in G.B.
John
Thanks John. The cultural relevance of the industry and Fosters in particular is of course important. But I do try to keep it separate from the product itself, if possible. And these have no more character than my Cleverley, G&G or Bemer – if indeed you can define what you mean by character in a shoe. They certainly have nothing particularly unusual, individual or idiosyncratic in their style. Finally on the finishing, as I said above I would have been very happy with a simple English polished finish
The day I would be in the position to purchase a pair of bespoke shoes, I would go to F&S and just request a “Thomas”.
Bro, you haven’t even had a bespoke shoe experience and just because you’ve became fascinated with the history of bespoke you think you can tell Simon anything.
Look, he has had multiple bespoke shoe experiences through the years and subsiquently has gotten to talk with many of the best and most knowledgable shoemakers around the world. Not to mention he is dedicating a significant portion of his life to promoting and sheading light on these wonderful craftsman. So, if anyone could give an opinion it would be him.
And, as for Lobb and F&S being highly special and revered, I think anyone who isn’t souly caught up with the companies historical reputation would agree that they seem dated and boring relative to their competition. And, I don’t mean that in how they make their shoes because every legitament bespoke shoe company adheres to the traditional methods.
This is indicative of what happens in artisan trades like this. It take passion a a lot of effort to create each and every shoe on this level. And, it take special craftsmen to start a legacy as well as maintain it, but how long does that legacy last, and does it get better with time or lessen as the company changed hands.
Are there any pictures of those St. Crispins shoes you keep hinting at?
Yes, sorry… Next week I promise
Hello Simon,
May I ask what shoe care product do you use to maintain your shoes?
I have seem some people suggesting to use saddle soap for regular cleaning and some says the opposite.
Regarding to shoe cream and shoe wax, I am also confused about whether a neutral color or a slightly lighter than the shoe color should be preferred?
Regards,
Zi
Hi
This is quite a big area, but I would say most of the time you should:
– Brush your shoes regularly (ideally after every wear)
– Polish fairly regularly (say every week or two)
– Apply cream less regularly still (perhaps every month)
Most of the time you shouldn’t need anything to clean them, saddle soap or not.
And as to colours of polishes, most of the time this will make little difference to the shoe unless it is very different in colour, but it is worth using a tan colour rather than neutral so a little pigment goes in – unless you want to retain the exact colour of the shoe as it is.
Hope that’s helpful
Thank you Simon, very prompt reply! Still have some follow up questions:
– When using shoe cream on a mid brown antique shoe, will matching the cream colour darken the shoe and dull the antique as there is normally a lot more pigment in cream than what it is in a polish?
– In your opinion, what colour of cream and polish will you use respectively on a mid brown antique shoe?
Regards,
Zi
– Yes, best to use neutral in that case
– If you don’t want to change the antique look, neutral or tan
Hi Simon, sry for bothering you two days in a row. I recently bought a Edward Green Chelsea on the 82 last (quite new to dress shoes but decided to go for high quality ones after reading your blog and a few others’).
– Is Edward Green shoe tree lasted/semi-lasted?
– With the most common spring loaded shoe tree, as the spring applies a continuous pressure to stretch the shoe out, is it possible a snug fit shoe tree will loose the shoe in long term?
– I saw some post with pictures of fabulous lasted shoe trees which does not contain spring. They consist a hinge between the heel and the front piece. I can see those ones need to be shaped exactly the same as the last since there is no tolerance from the spring system, so a higher price is expected. But are these ones noticeably better than the premium springed ones (like the one from EG) especially when dealing with the desired stretch pressure (stretch the shoe to maintain the shape but not to stretch too much to loose the shoe)?
Thank you in advance.
Zi
Thanks Zi. I wouldn’t worry too much about lasted trees as far as practicality goes. They are a lot nicer looking, but they won’t make a lot of difference to how much the shape of the shoe is retained. And springs are generally fine. As long as your not really trying to force a tree into a shoe that’s far too big
Hi Simon,
As someone who is planning to invest in a poor of bespoke shoes this year, may I ask a couple of questions? Firstly, I always tend to find with Raw shoes that after a while my heel starts to move freely in the heal cup (presumably this is because it was never correctly sized in the first place and therefore stretches). Is this is problem you still encounter with bespoke shoes and if so, can it be rectified? Secondly, will all your vast wealth of experience. If you were to recommend one shoe maker for a traditional black, capped toed Oxford, who would it be?
That issue can definitely be corrected on bespoke, it is a question of the ratio of width between heel at the back and joints at the front.
In London, I’d recommend G&G or Cleverley, depending on which style you prefer. Have a read of my piece on the comparison
Hi Simon
Any chance on a review of Berluti RTW shoes?
I definitely can’t afford bespoke, however, I can just afford their new Oxford Ultima and I read this particular model is constructed with a Goodyear welt. One of my “put-offs” for a Proud French company everything is made in Italy it seems in their RTW.would love your thoughts on quality, not style, as that’s dependent on each individual.
Kindest regards
Joel
I can’t recommend them at all at their prices I’m afraid. Look to Gaziano & Girling instead, or Saint Crispin’s
Is it that they are just overpriced? I assumed the quality is still good if overpriced?
It’s fine, yes.
Any chance to disclose which patina artist you used, Simon?
Gaziano & Girling
Had the same colour/polish issue with Fosters in the mid 80’s. I find it strange that in over 30 years such a high profile company haven’t addressed the problem. I also found the shoes to be rather fragile which was a huge disappointment. Of all the high end shoe makers I have tried Lazslo Vass offer the best combination of value for money durability style and comfort and the finish on the inside of the shoe is exquisite but then language can be a problem.
Have you tried the Fosters ready to wear line made at their new factory yet or do you have any idea how it compares to the other top range RTW lines (Lobb, EG, G&G, Anthony Cleverley etc)? I know the range is currently very limited, but given that its the first new factory around Northampton for a while it would be great to have a post on it, even if the product turns out to be disappointing.
I haven’t, no, but I’ve heard good things, especially as regards value for money.
Simon I noticed you rarely get medallion on your oxford. Is it because it makes the shoes look a bit too casual?
In the case of these shoes, yes it would have made them rather more casual. They were intended to be smarter than that.
But in general, you’re right I don’t have medallions that often. I hadn’t actually though about it before. I think it’s because I often prefer the smooth toe as I like the way it polishes. A toe with a medallion will polish up in a similar way, but the shine across the whole expanse doesn’t seem quite as satisfying.
Thanks for raising it.