Manish’s five bespoke lessons: Picking cloth
By Manish Puri. This article is the second in a series dealing with my personal experiences of having bespoke/MTM clothes made over the last six years. The first covered some of my tips for working with tailors, while this piece focuses on the lesso...
Manish’s five bespoke lessons: Picking cloth
Match in comments:
No problem John...
The importance of visiting your makers (repeatedly)
Readers have asked in the past what it’s like developing new clothing, what helps and hinders, what the challenges are. One piece of advice a friend gave me a while ago was to visit the factory more than you think - that even a one-day, flying...
The importance of visiting your makers (repeatedly)
Match in comments:
Cheers Riccardo, yes you can't really ever please/fit the majority of people...
Reader profile: David E
David is an example of a reader that has been into clothes for a long time, and now looks back on it from the perspective of a professional and father, fitting that interest into a life that has changed dramatically. A resident of south-east London...
Reader profile: David E
Match in comments:
That’s very encouraging. May give him a commission soon. Many thanks Lindsay...
Reader profile: Ben C
I’ve known Ben for a long time now. He worked round the corner from me during my journalism days, and we were both customers of visiting artisans like Elia Caliendo and Simone Abbarchi. We even did a shoot together for Elia years ago. Ben and ...
Reader profile: Ben C
Match in comments:
Love the semi-casual....
Reader profile: David
This is the second in our series of articles meeting, and questioning, Permanent Style readers. The first profiled Manish, who enthused about Russian watches and recommended that readers should start building a wardrobe with good trousers. It's wort...
Reader profile: David
Match in comments:
I know i am sounding like a broken record but the reader profile..another well dressed young man....keep it up!!!! Peace...
Introducing: The PS short-sleeved shirt
Last Summer, I had coffee with a friend on a hot afternoon in Mayfair. Sitting outside a pavement cafe, he was wearing loafers, a beautifully tailored trousers and - to my surprise - a short-sleeved shirt. I’ve never really liked short sleeve...
Introducing: The PS short-sleeved shirt
Match in comments:
That is terribly sad. Might have to do a vintage tour around Tokyo or purchase the one that Fullcount is offering. Hoping it works out....
Introducing: The PS linen overshirt
For a long time, my favourite linen overshirt has been an old model from Drake’s - readers will have seen it previously here , and it’s been worn continuously and lovingly since. One of the reasons I liked that model was that it had jus...
Introducing: The PS linen overshirt
Match in comments:
yes I agree...
PS (shorter) shorts are back
The PS Shorts go on sale again today, in the same colours as the past two years: khaki, olive and navy. Thank you to all readers for their patience waiting for the restock. There is only one major change, which is that the shorts are 1.5 inches sho...
PS (shorter) shorts are back
Match in comments:
Hey, I do wear them and I'm still a 43, though you're right, the sizing is a bit unpredictable. I think QC like that is one of the things that people often don't appreciate from getting from a tiny operation rather than ...
My shirt collars
When we published our recent article on the types and styles of shirt collars , a reader requested a follow-up piece on the precise dimensions of what I wear. In fact, this has come up a few times over the years, particularly as we&rsqu...
My shirt collars
Match in comments:
It depends on the shirt - whether it suits the style (eg good on an oxford, not on a western shirt), and whether it suits the collar style (point collar yes, cutaway collar no)...
The Online Symposium: How luxury menswear can bec...
One of the things bespoke artisans have struggled with during the Covid-19 crisis is not being able to travel. Savile Row makes more than half its money in the US, and the Spring trips weren’t possible. Should they try to do remote fittings? C...
The Online Symposium: How luxury menswear can bec...
Match in comments:
Mostly the style...
The Summer Top Five: Adret, Anglo, Anthology, Con...
With stock delayed and most shops closed, there seemed less point in doing our regular Spring/Summer round-up earlier in the year. So here, rather later, is a Summer-targeted piece on items I've tried myself and especially recommend. I've also kept ...
The Summer Top Five: Adret, Anglo, Anthology, Con...
Match in comments:
Those pieces would be long sleeve, correct? I think then it looks like a piece of knitwear, whereas most would see this Anthology piece as a T-shirt essentially, just a fancy one. I might wear the Anthology under a jacke...
Which sports-jacket office are you?
One of the most popular posts we’ve ever written on Permanent Style was ‘Which office are you?’, back in February 2016. It showed a spectrum of outfits from T-shirt and jeans, through knitwear and flannels, up to a jacket and tie -...
Which sports-jacket office are you?
Match in comments:
Yes that can be an issue. Look at Italian jacketings in particular, around 11-13oz if there are some. And go for a subtle pattern in the weave like a herringbone...
Introducing: Striped PS Oxford cloth
The traditional, nubby oxford fabric we developed last year has proved so popular that we’ve decided to introduce another option. It’s a little unusual in another way though, beyond the robust, textured yarn. It’s an off-white and ...
Introducing: Striped PS Oxford cloth
Match in comments:
Cheers Will...
Sartoria Ciardi cotton suit: Style breakdown
In our last installment in this Tailor Styles series, we looked at the modern incarnation of the Neapolitan jacket: light and soft, but also short with a small shoulder. Today’s suit, from Sartoria Ciardi, is the diametric opposite within Neap...
Sartoria Ciardi cotton suit: Style breakdown
Match in comments:
I think that's along the right lines, yes. The drape is also something you can tweak a little bit at fittings...
Two reader stories: Starting and building a wardrobe
In recent years I’ve done an increasing amount of personal consultancy, meeting readers in person to answer their questions rather than just here on the website. I don’t really advertise it because I don’t have much capac...
Two reader stories: Starting and building a wardrobe
Match in comments:
I would be confident enough to trust in Luca making a more formal shirt suitable for a bow tie. What attracts me to Luca is that there are no minimum number of shirts for a first bespoke commission with him. T&A, if ...
Introducing: The lightweight Friday Polo
Lovely as our Friday Polos are, they're not really built for Summer. The classic Friday Polo uses a luxurious piqué cotton from Caccioppoli which, while noticeably nicer than other polo cottons, is relatively thick and best suited to the othe...
Introducing: The lightweight Friday Polo
Match in comments:
I don't know off the top of my head, but if you refer to this project we did, I'm sure Luca will know...
The Shirtmakers Symposium – The video debate
Below you can find the full video of our Shirtmakers Symposium in Florence. It's a little basic, but thankfully the sound worked well and it's audible throughout. Silvio Albini makes a lovely introduction at the start, then each shirtmaker introduce...
The Shirtmakers Symposium – The video debate
Match in comments:
Awesome article Simon. Very informative. Your photography is perfect and this type of content is hard to find. You are right i found it interesting because of the video. Nice crowd and very well explained everything i al...
Technical details at the Shirtmakers Symposium
[The votes and nominations for the Permanent Style awards closed today, by the way. Thank you for all your comments and emails. The winners will be announced next week.] At the Shirtmakers Symposium in Florence last week we had a display of five shi...
Technical details at the Shirtmakers Symposium
Match in comments:
Interesting Thanks again....
The Shirtmakers Symposium – The speakers
Left to right: Simon Crompton, Justin Chang, Jack Sepetjian, Darren Tiernan, Silvio Albini, Luca Avitabile, Paolo Maffeis. The Shirtmakers Symposium last Wednesday went so well: great location, great speakers, great discussion. We decided this time ...
The Shirtmakers Symposium – The speakers
Match in comments:
I just felt the northern and southern Italian had more distinct styles, and wanted to be as international as possible so bring in Asia and the US. Would have liked to include a dozen other makers......
High/low dressing
The biggest potential pitfall with tailored dressing is looking fussy. Fussy is not sexy; it is not attractive. It is closely related to appearing ‘affected’ or ‘mannered’. Looking relaxed in clothing, on the other hand, is v...
High/low dressing
Match in comments:
Similar, yes...
Finest Knitwear available again – in navy a...
Our Finest Knitwear, which we created earlier this year, is back in a second batch with a new colour. Alongside the navy fine-merino knitwear - in crewneck and V-neck - there is now also a dark, muted green that I picked for its versatility. Both ar...
Finest Knitwear available again – in navy a...
Match in comments:
How wonderful, thanks for letting me know Michael...
How to wear trainers: Part 3. Style
This post is an illustrated explanation of how I wear trainers, or sneakers. As with similar exercises on the blog, I have attempted to be as structured as possible, keeping some parameters constant in order to focus on those being discussed. So in ...
How to wear trainers: Part 3. Style
Match in comments:
Hi Tamesh Personally, I think it could work well - it's not that dissimilar to what Simon is wearing in the first look (minus the knitwear)...
Sartoria Melina bespoke leather jacket – Re...
My leather jacket from Sartoria Melina arrived a couple of weeks ago, and I’m relieved to say the fit is good and the product excellent. I was rather worried at the fitting we had in Naples, because the canvas toile they had created was rather...
Sartoria Melina bespoke leather jacket – Re...
Match in comments:
Thanks a million Simon - much appreciated..!!...
Introducing: Everyday Denim
Today I’m very proud to launch a new collaboration, produced jointly by myself, Albiate and Luca Avitabile: ‘ Everyday Denim’. We picked the name because it is a shirt a man in a modern office can wear every day: an update on the c...
Introducing: Everyday Denim
Match in comments:
Just to be clear Gilles, our denim is different - we only started offering it because Thomas Mason discontinued it...
How to dress for very hot weather
As mentioned on my ‘What I pack’ post, I’ve been travelling a lot in high heat recently. There was Pitti in Florence, where the temperature topped out at 37 degrees. Naples in July was very similar. And Puglia at the end ...
How to dress for very hot weather
Match in comments:
It certainly is Shem, yes, just a little harder on style and elegance. It's hard to go into all things here, but I think it becomes very much about the cut of those other pieces. Eg you want to avoid both top and bottom ...
