There is such pleasure in looking after good clothes well.

One of the reasons shoes are my favourite piece of clothing is they actually get better with age: the upper shapes to your foot; perhaps more importantly, the insole does too; and the leather rewards hours of polishing with a deep and unique patina.

With most other clothes, maintenance merely delays an inevitable decline. Sure the canvas of a good suit moulds to man’s chest, improving the fit, and both cashmere sweaters and quality shirts soften with age. But none of them improve in every direction and never look back – that is the distinct gratification of a shoe.

However, there is still much pleasure to be had in maintaining tailoring and knitwear. It is the particular pleasure of taking the time to repair something that you know others would simply throw away. It is also a way of appreciating expensive clothing that has had a lot of time and effort put into it by others.

I had this pleasure recently with a black cashmere sweater I’ve had for a couple of years. It’s a Ralph Lauren Purple Label cable knit, with that lovely spongy softness that distinguish hand knits. When I bought the sweater I faithfully squirreled away the little sachet it came with containing spare thread, assuming I would never use it.

But during a particularly active game of forts with my daughter (rearranging our sofa cushions in order to hide behind them and repel invaders with scatter cushions) I tore the arm of the sweater on a stray spring. A jagged tear, two inches long.

That evening I got the spare thread out, threaded a needle and turned the sweater inside out, to attempt some kind of repair. It turned out to be remarkably easy. The cashmere thread was so thick and soft that it bound into the existing weave almost invisibly, though that was doubtless helped by the dark colour of the knit and the cable pattern.

There are many videos online that show you how to sew such a tear, so I won’t explain it step-by-step here (eHow is particularly good – though remember this is not darning, as there was no hole). But I will pass on a few points of advice:
  • Always sew the garment inside-out
  • Make sure you secure the start and end point, otherwise it will unravel
  • Secure it by looping in the same place three times. Don’t use a knot, as it can stick out and with a loose weave will just pull through
  • Sew slightly more stitches and slightly looser than you would instinctively
  • Cashmere, particularly in a thick knit, is easier to repair, not harder
  • Make sure you retain any spare thread that comes with the sweater: even a small difference in shade can stand out. If in doubt, use a shade darker not lighter
  • Take the time and effort to actually do it. It’s very satisfying, makes you feel less like a useless modern man and makes the sweater more personal
So go on. Sew up that hole in the armpit of your favourite V-neck before it gets any worse.
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Claire

Cashmere is easier?

That is such a relief, thank you! I just found a hole in my best jumper and I’ve been fearing screwing it up.

Steven T

Nice to hear that I am not the only one who likes to fix my clothes. I was feeling very nerdy enjoying mending things. You have given me new energy Simon.

Anonymous

Please advise if there are any known deterrents to moths, as I put little stock in the efficacy of a cedar closet. (Have too many sweaters and jackets with holes that prove the point.)

I have been told that cedar itself is not a repellant, but rather that its scent overpowers the scent of woolens.

How effective is a spray-on insecticide? (Anyone?)

Thanks,
–John Wesley

adabeie

Simon, I wonder if you would make a similar recommendation for a slightly oversized, unlined, felted wool jacket I recently acquired at Uniqlo. Usually, their sizing is consistent, and thus when trying on one I simply picked up another in a different color of the same label size. Turns out the sleeves are a bit long and the body a bit wide. But tailors who do alterations around here don’t touch any sort of suiting, ever, and tailors who make their own clothes around here don’t do alterations on anything that doesn’t bear their own label. Additionally, it would be nice to know I’m not a useless modern man and it would indeed make the jacket more personal. It does seem like most of your advice would suit this occasion..

Anonymous

What a freak.

Anonymous

Great post! Articles like these are what makes me come back! I recently repaired a cashmere sweater that suffered from a burn hole and the damage is practically invisible after the few stitches I applied. Such joy!

Claire

Just finished my darn. It came out very passably – just wanted to say thanks for the encouragement!