I’m seriously impressed with this tweed jacket from Cifonelli. The style is nice, with a mix of traditional and original detailing. But having put that together with Lorenzo, it was what I expected. Perhaps more surprising, and certainly more impressive, is the construction.


At every point the tailors have gone the extra mile. The hand sewing on the buttonholes is beautiful in itself, but they have also made sure to hand sew both sides of the top three, as the reverse will show when the collar is turned up (as it is designed and fitted to do).

The single buttons on the cuffs, equally, are hand sewn on both sides for when they are turned back. And that means hand sewing in suede, which is not easy. You can also see that hand stitching in the suede flap over the breast pocket.


Inside all the seams on the lining are done in a delicate hand stitch, using brown thread to contrast. Even where the side and back panels of the lining join. In fact, that seam features probably my favourite construction detail: little round tacks, by hand of course, where normal construction would just do a straight bar. It’s so subtle and so needless.

The triangles that secure each end of the slash pockets are impressive pieces of handwork, as is the sewing that connects the sleeve lining. We counted the stitches: between 12 and 14 to the inch.


The overall shape, as I alluded in the previous posts (here) is distinctive of Cifonelli. A soft chest but a strongly roped shoulder – together with a widish lapel and therefore thick collar – which leads to a structured, almost pagoda-type effect.

The fit is quite nipped at the waist with a definite flair to the skirt, a small chest and with a very high armhole leading to a narrow sleeve.

I only wish I had a macro lens on my camera, so I could show you those stitches close up.
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Anonymous

While I love the proportions and fit of this coat, particularly the pagoda shape of the shoulders. To my eye the exaggerated roping of the shoulders detracts from the overall silhouette.

Anonymous

Cette veste est bien mieux que celle par A&S – et le prix, Monsieur Simon?
Geoffroi Borlaise

Mr. Goodwill Hunting

I really like this jacket. I like the high equestrian cut. It is very hard to get that here in the US unless it is custom or bespoke.

Mr. Goodwill Hunting

Jeffery Diduch

The little round tacks, I am guessing, are actually a C (for Cifonelli). smalto makes an S tack in the same place. A nice little detail.

Anonymous

Splendid jacket !

From which clothier does come this tweed? which grammage?

Ronan

Andrew

Hi Simon are the prices you’ve quoted inclusive of VAT? Are US customers excused from VAT charges?

Oskar

You may have already answered this elsewhere, Simon – how often do you actually wear this jacket? It is no doubt beautifully crafted, but seems to have many out-of-the-ordinary details combined in a single piece (slash pockets, breast pocket flap, gauntlet-like sleeves).. thinking back to your recent concept of having an “extravagance budget” to spend in a single outfit, this looks like a stretch to any budget. Would you agree?

Jj

Hi Simon
Lovely jacket.
Is it the 24313ph fabric from Harris Tweed?
Thanks very much

Fabio Lucarini

Hello Simon,

I love your work, keep it up! I have one quick question. I own a similar tweed jacket, in your opinion, what is the ideal type of pants to wear with it?

Thanks,/
Fabio

Anonymous

Would you wear this jacket with beige/cream cotton or wool trousers?

Hugh

Simon,

On instagram, you said that you had toned down some of the details. Could you follow-up here on what the result is?

Thanks

Hugh

Sorry if I misunderstood – have you further toned down the jacket further from the pictures above?

Robert

Hey Simon-

I wonder if your readers might benefit from a column on lining selection and details (….maybe the neon pink with palm trees isn’t the best choice…). Newbies might learn about subtlety. Old hands will enjoy the lively commentary. You frequently allude to details but never in one place ( seamless fabric around inner pockets, pocket position, no fabric brand sewn-ins etc. ). I sense your focus is “fabric & fit” but those of us out here in the Bespoke hinterlands eventually have to select a lining. Your universe is broad and you have lots to cover, but please consider it. It’s tough to be an influencer. Keep up the great work.