Dear Mr Simon,

Let me first say that I always admire your passion and insight into gentlemen’s garments. I am a fan of Permanent Style and I have been hooked on it for years.
 
I have one long-standing question: what kind of wallet should I carry with my suit? Which do you think is better – having a card case and bill case separately or a card-and-bill case combined? Of course, there are some alternatives like money clips. And then, which pocket to store it in?

I know that some tailors close suit pockets up for two reasons – to prevent wearers from putting items in and then to prevent the suit from being out of shape because of the first reason.

Because of that, one side of my brain is saying to me that I should buy a combined one to reduce my items to carry but the other side is saying that if I do so, it might be a lump and ruin my suit silhouette. I am sort of snookered. haha

These questions might sound rather trivial but I would be grateful if you could share your ideas about them with me.

I look forward to your reply.

Taku


Hi Taku,

The key to carrying any kind of wallet is to keep it as slim as possible, so be very restrictive with what you carry you with you – the minimum number of cards, only the most recent receipts etc.

I find the best style is then a long wallet, sometimes called a coat or jacket wallet. It minimises the amount of overlap of your cards, so the wallet is as thin as possible (see picture above). If you restrict yourself to four or five cards, you can even just use every other slot.

The other side of the wallet carries your bills and receipts. I know people have to carry far more notes in other countries than in the UK (we get stuck with coins), but they shouldn’t thicken that other side too much.

Ideally, your wallet should still not be in your jacket pocket. It should be in a briefcase or whatever bag you carry with you. Certainly that’s where chunkier items like your keys should go, and you should avoid it altogether with lightweight suits.

But if it does have to go in your jacket, put it in the in-breast pocket and balance the other side with something – I have an iPhone 5, and that’s light and thin enough to work. (It wasn’t really excuse enough to upgrade from the iPhone 4, but then I like gadgets.) Keep your jacket done up too – that helps a lot with supporting the jacket and its contents.

It is also helpful if your tailor cuts the in-breast pocket slightly higher than in a normal, off-the-peg suit. It means that the wallet will slightly fill out your chest, rather than your chest and waist. Of all the tailors I’ve tried, only Anderson & Sheppard and those that trained at A&S do this as standard. Perhaps it’s having that bit of drape to play with.

I hope that’s helpful. The image at top is an Asprey coat wallet.

Simon
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Anonymous

It depends on the occasion. If the drape aspect *is* critical – which it isn’t on an everyday basis – I only bring my driving licence (=ID), Visa card and one or two banknotes.

/Håkan, Sweden

Anonymous

Simon I too am a fan of your blog. This post was one of the most useful I’ve read in a while. I’ve long used a coat wallet in the manner you suggest and offer another reason for keeping things to a minimum – if you happen to lose it – the fewer things you need to cancel! As my wife said to me 10 years ago “do you really need to carry every card with you?” Great blog and happy New Years!
Dimitrios

Anonymous

Hi Simon
Good advice. I try and carry everything in my briefcase now and it works well. You just have to train yourself to put things in there instead of stuffing them in the nearest pocket. I remember a few years ago, you did a post on the Alfred Dunhill pochette. I’ve toyed with the idea of getting one as it really fits the bill(intended), but I just can’t seem to overcome the self conciousness of carrying it, lovely as it looks. It’s strange how the mind functions, I started wearing bow ties occasionally to work a few years ago. On the first day it drew a lot of comments, but I carried on doing it and by about the third or fourth time I didn’t even give it a second thought. Mentally, there seems to be a lot more resistence to the pochette. Do you still use yours?

Anonymous

I would go with Ettinger, either coat or billfold. Quite simply, the best bridle hide leather wallets around, bar none.

K

Martin Smolka

Dear Simon, are you sure Valextra is sewn by hand?

DKP

What about Equus? Aren’t his wallets hand sewn?

DKP

Does this not mean they are extremely good value for money then if all other hand sewn are closer to $1000> Equus appear to be under £150

DKP

I’m considering one of his “Minimal” card holders. These are made of Chevre. Any thoughts on how this compares to calfskin or bridle?

DKP

Sounds like the value then is in the craftsmanship while the material is perhaps not as fine as what you might find with some machine sewn wallets.

Anonymous

Simon – do you think the coat wallet should be (soft) calf or (harder) bridle? I find I prefer the calf but also find the bridle holds shape better If wallet placed in my coat. I would be interested in your views Dimitrios

MrDapper

I enjoy your blog and read it daily. I had this same issue years back and changed to a money clip and card holder. But then reduced to essentials with just the money clip and a couple of cards. I have got use to using what I have and have had no problems since. I also balance out with phone.

Cheers

Robert

Anonymous

I stopped using wallets a while ago. My bespoke trousers have outward angled inner pockets inside the front pockets. 2-3 credit cards and ID go in the left inner pocket. Mobile phone in the right inner pocket. Neatly folded cash goes in the jacket inner breast pocket.

Anonymous

Wallet in briefcase or bag? So now I’m supposed to carry a briefcase or bag wherever I go? That’s ridiculous. What is the point of tailors giving a jacket 3 or more inside pockets as standard if you’re supposed to keep everything in your bag?

I keep my wallet in my left inside pocket. My tailor knows that’s where I keep it, he knows how big it is, and he cuts the jacket accordingly. He cuts another pocket for my phone on the other side. In my trouser pocket, there is room for my keys. And that way my hands are free and I don’t need to worry about losing my handbag.

Anonymous

What about coins gentlemen? Where do you keep these? Trouser pockets?

Anonymous

Small coin pouches like this one might come in handy: http://launer.com/leather-coin-purse.html

Greg

I would imagine most bespoke suits from Savile Row would have higher in-breast pockets. Richard James definitely does and I would highly recommend them.
Talking about chunkier items, and keeping in mind that it close to impossible to carry a briefcase all the time, what do you do with them? Particularly keys which can damage the pockets? Would you recommend a small leather key pouch (and where from)?

sgobowinski

Phones are generally slim enough not to bulge in a suit pocket. But for a wallet, I just tuck it into my waistband. It is far more comfortable than pockets, and just the top of the wallet showing at the top of your trousers looks far nicer than “the bulge”. Personally, I use a folding wallet, and put only one half in my waistband, so it is half the thickness again and even more comfortable. I ensure the side with coins and bulk is on the side that is out of my pants.

Steve Bradley

Do you have a favorite long wallet? I have never owned that style. I actually haven’t even been the one to purchase my last few.
I received a very nice wallet with a money clip for Christmas. It is thin enough that as long as I don’t overstuff it, it doesn’t seem to add much bulk.

david

May I ask what card holders you use? Thanks

Anonymous

Simon, is it possible to finde Serge Amuroso’s products anywhere online? If not, what would you recommend as the best possible alligator card case? Thanks!

Anonymous

Thanks! I´m in the US and Dunhill´s leather range here is extremely reduced and does not include the hand swen, UK-made goods. Between Equus, Jean Rousseau and Chester Mox for a hand sewn, alligator card case which would you prefer?

Peter

What about when you go out in casual wear like jeans and no jacket?

I use a slim wallet with a minimum of cards. It doesn’t distort my jackets and can fit in a jeans pocket. I only need a single wallet and want it to be versatile.

Does you long wallet work with jeans Simon?

Anonymous

Do you ever carry a wallet in one of your rear pants pockets?
Why wouldn’t you carry a phone in your pants pockets?
And if you have a cigar case, where would you put it? Do you use your jacket’s pockets at all?

Anonymous

What about the outside pockets of a jacket? Do you ever use those? I sometimes see people putting their hands in them. I assume that’s not a good idea…

David

Do you then have to carry a bag all the time? Do you put your keys in a bag too?

Anonymous

Simon, when you write putting your phone in your trouser pocket “ruins the line”, do you mean it permanently damages it or it simply doesn’t look good?

Anonymous

Hi Simon

Have you come across a company called Pickett? If so, have you any experience of them?

Thanks

Anonymous

Thanks. Any idea if they’re at the same level as Aspinall?

Anonymous

Dear Simon,

Curious to know if you have seen George Cleverley’s Russian leather card cases/wallets? If yes, what do you think of them? Thanks in advance.

Anonymous

Hi Simon,

I’m looking for a slim hard business card case like the silver one in American Psycho: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cISYzA36-ZY. Any quality brand recommendation? Thanks~

Anonymous

How much did you pay for it? Would you recommend buying it on ebay or just look in person? How do you know the difference between a cigarette case and a business card case? Some sellers say they are 2 in one, but i’d think the business card case is slimmer and squarish.

Anonymous

Thanks Simon. How do you know if it’s real silver?

Raf

Hi Simon, Saw a few comments about how to carry keys.
I can recommend orbitkey. I think you and you readers will appreciate the simple design and functionality (whether you go for leather, canvas, nylon rubber etc…)

Christopher

Do recommend a black or brown wallet?

Antonio

Hi Simon,

I was recently able to find a used berluti alligator cardholder for $500. I think it is in decent shape, photos attached. Wondering if you think it’s worth it and if it will age well or if you think that much money is better spent elsewhere.

Regards

AR

Screenshot_20210523-104144_Gallery.jpg
Antonio

Hi Simon,

I had to take a screenshot of the photo I took to upload since the system wouldn’t let me upload a photo larger than 2mb. That may be why it came through smaller. I can try to figure out how to upload a better photo or I could email a few photos.

Regards

Antonio

Antonio

No problem. I’m not an expert on photo sizes, I’m sure there was a better way for me to upload. I’ve emailed them over, thanks for the quick replies and looking forward to your thoughts.

Thanks

AR

BC

Hi Simon,

What kind of wallet do you generally carry when you’re wearing casual clothes (for example denim or shorts)? I’ve typically carried a money clip and card carrier, but a long thin wallet may be more practical (and less flashy).

Carl

Hi Simon,
I am Looking for a good option for a purse/container for these scenarios which might not be of everyday concern, but wash up every once in a while: how do you carry change/cash in other currencies? Where do you keep passports, other important documents when on vacation/ travelling (maybe even beach)? Ho do you store coins in your car? Where do you keep business cards in your briefcase (if that still happens)…? And maybe there are some other readers’ tips as well, would love to hear about different options!

Jack

Hi Simon, I have been using a burgundy-grained leather wallet from Hermes but recently noticed that it was dry and there were scratches, so I used Saphir’s renovator cream to nourish the leather.
However, the leather has dried out even more, and some white marks are around the wallet. Could you suggest what I should do for the wallet’s leather? Should I treat the same as the dress shoes?

Many thanks,
Jack

Jack

Okay, thanks, Simon.