My latest column for How to Spend It is on the innovative Bram Frankel, creator of sock brand William Abraham. I continue to be impressed by Bram ever since I first helped launch the brand back in February. He is doing something truly original in menswear – and how many brands can you say that about?
You can read the column here and the archive of pieces for How to Spend It here.
Talking of socks Simon, I was in Paris last weekend and decided to visit Mes Chaussettes Rouge (having read your previous comments about the company). I must say that I thoroughly enjoyed calling on the shop at 9 rue César Franck and arriving in October meant that they had good ranges of both cotton and warmer knits in stock. Jacques and Vincent are a delight and very helpful as well as having an encyclopedic knowledge of their socks! I walked out of their store about an hour later with a bag of delightfully tissue wrapped socks from Mazarin, Bresciani, Gallo and Doré Doré. This is a very enjoyable way to pass an hour or two in Paris (or online) and I would wholeheartedly recommend it to other readers of Permanent Style.
Thanks, yes they’re lovely aren’t they? It’s a great little place and they’re about to start doing trunk shows – first with Bresciani, which will be the brand’s first one anywhere.
Hi Simon, have you altered anything re. web site function? I`m viewing on Kindle and for the first time your site seems to stagger when scrolling, the text is overly large, the page has problems resizing and the comments box is very, very slow to respond. I suspect as there is now video content (flash driven?) that there might have been some technical changes but these are not helping the viewing. Thought you should know.
Stephen.
Thanks Stephen,
Yes we’re experimenting with some better views for mobile devices. It should be better and easier to read, but we’re having to go through a few iterations. Should be fixed this week.
Cheers
He gave you those socks, have you worn them yet?
Sorry, yes. They’re great, a pleasure every time I wear them. And lasting just as well as any normal sock
He’s not doing something truly original. He’s charging a fortune for socks made out of a slightly fancier material than normal.
Well, whatever you think about the value, it’s still original.
And I’d argue the materials are a lot nicer.
Simon. Not related to hosiery. Just pulled my winter suits out the weekend. They smell and look sad!!! Where in London do you suggest!
Please not Jeeves. !!
Hey Freddy,
For a good press I’d recommend either Press2Dress or, if you want to go to a shop, PA Crowe tailors.
Pieces on both of them around the blog if you do a search
Cheers
In a silimiar vein to the above, is there anywhere which does a good shoe care/ polish service? I’m thinking more than just the spit and polish shoe shiners you see about but not a full restoration type service either?
Not really, no. Most of the street polishers you see are terrible at it, and even those that advertise restoration work often aren’t great.
Cleverley have a good shoeshine service for £15. Takes about a week. Not sure if it’s only for existing customers, but they do shine other company’s shoes.
I don’t know if it’s similar, but I can’t recommend the shoeshine service that Cleverley provides after its repair of shoes. The person tends to overpolish (leading to very quick cracking) and doesn’t seem to take the laces out, leading to laces with ‘polished’ sections…
Did you find that?
Didn’t notice that problem with Cleverley shoeshine, no.
Simon
I have a job (starting in 10 months) at an Investment Bank as a graduate.
I want to fit in and not be the flashy new analyst, but quite frankly don’t want to look exactly the same as everyone else. What are small but subtle touches that you would recommend? Is it possible to wear a shantung tie with a worsted suit? what other suit materials could I go for?
Thanks
B
Hey,
I’d recommend keeping it very simple. Experiment with little things like woven vs printed silks, or striped shirts. Dark sock colours perhaps. Or best of all, simply get a suit that fits – bespoke, or get a RTW one that fits the neck and shoulders, and have adjustments made to the waist, and anywhere else it needs.
Have a read of the comments here too:
http://www.permanentstyle.com/2014/02/how-to-buy-my-first-bespoke-suit-reader-question.html#.VD_nqSldWcg
Hey Simon,
It is not an original idea as Harrys of London where offering Cervelt socks in 2012 for around £900.
Interesting. That’s only on sock out of 20, however, and only one material, with presumably no different weaving technique?
Advice to student: to stand out, simply do things the right way. Simply following Simon’s basic tips will make you stand out in all the right ways. People may not know quite why you look smart and polished, but they will know you do and respect you for it.
– Go for subtle, traditional colours (one navy, one mid grey, one charcoal)
– Buy a suit which fits from a quality make (MTM, heavier cloth than you think you need, side tabs rather than a belt – your individuality may be expressed here through hacking / ticket pockets etc.)
– Buy English oxford shoes – from C&J if possible. Buy at least two pairs, one could perhaps have subtle broguing. Use shoe trees and polish them well.
– Buy the best quality, slim fitted shirts which you can afford; some bengal striped shirts too perhaps. Buy collar stiffeners (perhaps mother of pearl, Simon recommended these in an earlier post – hidden luxury will give you a subtle confidence boost)
– Buy a selection of nice ties, although you may find people don’t wear them in your office, so don’t go made before you actually arrive. If the other analysts don’t wear them, I recommend not wearing them either. If they do, get a selection of good ties in standard colours – dark blues, greys, perhaps red. A cashmere tie can be very nice in an office and may help you to be different in a good way. Drakes are nice (I also like Ferragamo (although not the ones with cartoons) but I know this can be divisive).
– Wear socks which match your trousers
– If you wear them, invest in some quality glasses – C&G or Oliver People’s. I know it sounds odd but they are quite a big thing in such places and can be just the thing to finish a look.
Overall, remember you’re there to be a great analyst, not a sartorial trendsetter. You want your ability to stand out first and foremost – not your clothes.
Don’t, whatever you do (please) wear any of the following: tie clip, tie pin, three piece suit, pocket square, braces any kind of hat or brightly coloured socks. You will stand out for all the wrong reasons and be instantly known as “that analyst with the [braces/pocket square, waistcoat]”etc. Its never good.
Great advice James! You clearly get it
@James
Caveat: I am not a City trader.
But what’s wrong with a simple white handkerchief?
Or similarly 3 piece…?
I don’t get why anyone should be afraid of either item.
Or is it more a case of that terribly british thing: Not wanting people to think you believe you have ideas above your station…
But yes, doing the job well is primarily the key thing in and of itself.
Regards
Hey J – as with anything, there’s nothing wrong with either piece, but all clothing is a question of propriety. Dressing to suit your surroundings is an underrated art. In a job, that often means looking professional but not out of place.
Simon. Thanks for the help. I’ve dropped a few of today.
Will let you know how we get on.