D'Avino Fiorenzo Auricchio 

D’Avino is a small Neapolitan outfit run by cutter Fiorenzo Auricchio (above). He has no website, an abandoned blog, and little used social media. Email is the best contact option.

But he visits London regularly, usually twice a year at least, and from my experience over the past two years I am happy to recommend him as the finest of the visiting makers here. He is the zenith of perhaps three tiers of visiting shirtmakers I have used satisfactorily: 

  • D’Avino. Every piece of handwork you could ask for, to the highest level. Much of it purely aesthetic, with no practical advantage, but a work of art. Starts at €300. 
  • Luca Avitabile. My most commonly used maker. Visiting every month or two; introduced here on Permanent Style and now with a big London client base. Only the practical handwork, and not finished to the same level as D’Avino, but still good. Starts at €220. 
  • Simone Abbarchi. Too early to write about him and recommend him fully, but great value for money for Italian bespoke shirts with no handwork. Based in Florence, comes to London and New York twice a year each. Starts at €120.
     

D'Avino Fiorenzo Auricchio shirtsD'Avino Fiorenzo Auricchio3

 
With all three, there are two reasons I use them:

  • Value for money. Better make than any English shirtmaker (in that there is no handwork, which I find a practical benefit in), and a lot better than the bigger Italian brands with shops in London, eg Kiton.
  • Style. Italian bespoke shirtmakers are particularly good at collar shapes (and the collarband shape – just as important). As I’ve found to my cost with several British and other shirtmakers, there is little attention paid to style in this sense and it is particularly wanting on open-necked shirts.

Fiorenzo, as I say, is the best. Here I am being remeasured to check a couple of things, in the Ugolini workshop in Florence. 
 

D'Avino Fiorenzo Auricchio2

 
Shirts, perhaps even more than suits, are an evolution of taste and fit. I say more than suits because you are unlikely to have many variations of shirt style, while you might have lots of different suits/jackets. Two collar shapes normally suffice (eg spread and button-down), with perhaps two different cuff styles. Working with a shirtmaker, then, is about perfecting the body shape, button position, and those few style permutations. Here, with Fiorenzo, we are increasing the height of the collar slightly and raising the third button, to match that of my Avitabile shirts.

I’ve included a few more shots of Fiorenzo’s latest shirt for me here, to illustrate the fine detail and quality, which you don’t always get with Italian makers. 
 

D'Avino Fiorenzo Auricchio seams
Sleeve and shoulder – often an area that is rough with other makers
D'Avino Fiorenzo Auricchio shirts
Where (hand-attached) collarband meets shoulder
D'Avino Fiorenzo Auricchio shirt detail
The beautifully neat, hand-rolled bottom seam

 
Main photos: Luke Carby

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Stephen

Thanks for the detail shots Simon, it gives a visual aspect to the quality of the handcrafting. I have great admiration for such skills that are all too rare now. Particularly admire the cuff fit on the wrist (as shown above), out of interest how do you accommodate variance in fit on the watch wearing arm to allow for different watches (slim work wear, chunky weekend etc. .). Could you also make a comment about the cloths used; are they Italian and what is your impression of quality – I know cotton shirting is ubiquitous but the Italians often have access to quality cloths that we do not see here. Also how does D’Avino approach his cutting in consideration of the variance in cloth…for example if a cloth is lighter with more give is he then able to cut it a little closer than he would with a fuller more rigid cloth (denim for example). Just trying to understand his approach to shape and movement when he designs and constructs the garment.

J.T.

Dear Simon,

Thanks for posting so much valuable information about these great makers.
I have a question about fabrics, though. I love the Neapolitan collar shapes, but, also love the tremendous color choices available at Charvet. What do I do? Do I ask Charvet to copy the Italian collar, or would that be an insult to Mr. Colban? Do I bring fabrics to the Neapolitan shirt maker, or would that, too, be a tremendous insult? I ask only because I’ve seen many fabric swatches in the Italian shops, and they’re usually some version of white/striped/pale blue, etc., and I’d like something a bit more complementary to my skin color, yet classic and appropriate. Any suggestions? Also, do you remember the name of the Milanese shirting store mentioned in Alan Flusser’s “Style & The Man”?
Thanks for your time.
Best wishes for continued success.

J.T.

Thanks for responding, Simon.
Be well.:)

Patrik

I’ve had a shirt made by Fiorenzo last year and can’t recommend him enough. It really is a work of art. Unfortunately I haven’t worn it in public yet as it is cotton/linen and I took delivery in November 🙁
Summer can’t come fast enough this year!

Colin

Simon….I notice most of your shirts are cut in lighter materials, would you recommend any materials such flannel/wool/moleskin and if so is it practical to wear these thicker fabrics tucked into trousers/jeans or are they better placed for overshirts, likely to be worn untucked?

Anon

What is his price compared to Luca?

Enzo

Hi Simon
what are in your opinion formal trousers fabrics suited for the summer? Probably fresco and tropical wool? Cotton and linen probably too informal.
I was looking for something versatile like flannel ( in winter) which can be worn with jackets, but also with sweaters,cardigans. I don’t think there is something as versatile for the summer.

Enzo

so you say tropical wool trousers?
To be honest I’m not very familiar with these trousers, do they have somekind of texture? I don’t want them to look like they are suit trousers.

Sam

Is there any particular guidance on mixing fabrics? EG if its a light linen jacket go for fresco rather than a heavy linen trouser?

BespokeNYC

Absolutely beautiful details! With current USD -> EUR exchange rates his prices are almost starting to look affordable. Don’t suppose he does US visits?

Also, really looking forward to a full review of Simone Abbarchi. Any other readers have experience of him?

Y

Out or curiosity, how did it come about that you were getting fitted by a Neapolitan shirt maker in a florentine shoemaker’s workshop?

Ben

Simon, Is there bad blood between you and the dire tom stubbs? Another diss of PS on his lacklustre blog today.
He has also made derogatory comments about a suitable wardrobe in the past. Complete cheek from stubbs, especially as he looks a state, can’t dress, and dresses dermot o’leary. What’s going on?

Mac

Simon,
Not sure there’s any offence intended by Tom Stubbs’ comments. As far as I can see, his mention of PS implies that this is a very popular blog. Tom-speak is difficult to decipher most of the time anyway! He’s ok is Tom.

Back on topic, not mad on the soft look of these collars myself. So much handwork, though. How does he make any money!!?

Considering the longtime success of English shirtmakers, I’ve never heard of any lack of adventure myself. I had a long discussion with my shirtmaker about the height, length and shape of my collar. He even made a version in card for me to try around my neck. I find English collars clean, formal and elegant. Sorry to hear that you’re own experiences were disappointing. However, D’Avino seems to be the right man for you.

DE

Hi Simon, I am a follower who comes to you via Facebook. Because you aren’t listing your posts on Facebook any longer the last one I’ve seen is ‘How many tailors do you need?’ posted 23rd February. Is this a permanent change that you won’t be posing on Facebook any longer?

Nick

Hi Simon, when you reviewed Luca Avitabile, you wrote about his curved collar as a feature that helps collar stay erect. Just wondering if that’s unique to Luca or also featured on D’Avino and Abbarchi’s shirts? Thank you

Enzo

Simon
do you think trousers have the same risk of jackets of looking “orphaned”? A pair of navy trousers, or worsted pinstripe might look like orphaned suit trousers, but what about grey trousers?

Richard

Hi Simon, please can you elaborate a bit about perfecting button position? I have purchased a few shirts from Luca Avitabile already but never paid any attention to this.

Scott

Could you comment on your exact regiment for cleaning your Neapolitan shirts. Do you wash them at home in washer bags and iron them yourself? When you travel and cannot carry enough for the entire trip – what your process for cleaning them? As always, thank you for an informative post.

Victor

Hi Simon, thanks so much for your wonderful wonderful tips, I was wondering what you think of D’Avino vs. Charvet and perhaps Alexander Kabbaz in NYC in terms of fit, construction, and handiwork?

Thanks so much!

Vic

Anonymous

Simon,
Thanks for this article. Very interesting. Would you be kind enough to find out and post when/where Fiorenzo will next be travelling to London?
On a separate matter – what is commication with him like? I often find with visiting tailors that you communicate something, receive the nod assuming understanding, only to later realise that things are not what one expected on receipt of the item. Must add that I’ve never been truly disappointed, just a little frustrated.

Matt

Hello Simon,
how many fittings are they doing for the shirts. Du you know when they will be next time in the UK?
Thanks

Marcus turle

Hi Simon, so for two fittings, that means at least two trips to Naples, and perhaps three if you also need to visit for being measured? I know D’Avino occasionally visits London but that’s quite a commitment, no? Is there any way to make things easier (e.g. by sending measurements by email – that’s how Mary Frittolini used to work)?

Anonymous

Who is the best shirt maker in your opinion? How long does the bespoke process take with Davino?
You should check out Irene Muñoz in madrid. She is outstanding and around 70 euros per shirt. (100% cotton)

Anonymous

I’ve been an avid reader of this site for a couple of years now but haven’t commented before. I’m a couple of years into a job now (in law) and am about to take the plunge into bespoke tailoring. I have an appointment with Luca Avitabile in a couple of weeks with a view to having one (business) shirt made with the potential for more in the future. I was wondering if you have any tips for the appointment itself: what to wear, what to bring, anything specific to ask for or bear in mind given I wish to wear it with a tie or a suit etc.? Any advice at all would be much appreciated. Thanks for all your advice and great articles over the years.

Regards,

F

Sartorius

Hi Simon, I have been using Mary Frittolini for shirts and have been very pleased with her work. I wondered whether you have used her yourself and, if so, how her work compares with D’Avino? I need to find a new maker as Mary is taking time out. Thanks, Sartorius

Sartorius

Thanks Simon.
I think you’ve said that he has ‘started’ to visit London. Do you know how often he comes over?
Sartorius

Sartorius

Thanks again Simon. I have emailed, and he has replied very promptly. No indication of the next London visit, however! Perhaps a trip to Naples is in order.

J

Dear Simon,
Apologies for posting again on a article that has been published by yourself some time ago. I was wondering if you could shed some light on whether D’Avino and Avino Laboratorio Napolitano are one of the same thing or two entirely separate ‘outfits’ (sorry about the pun). Your view would be appreciated, particularly if you have experience of the latter?
Regards,
J

Jacob

Simon, thanks for the posting! On a very pedantic note, what is your stance on fly fronts? I noticed you had a D’Avino shirt with one, but am under the impression it is not your standard. Cheers!

Peter B

Simon, I have heard that hand-rolled bottom seams are a pain to iron. Has that been your experience? Or is there a trick to it?
I haven’t had personal experience with them so far.
Thanks

Raphaël

I’ve been told by an alterer in Paris that hand-rolled bottom seams (by Kiton and others) often end unstitched. He gets such shirts to repair on a regular basis.

Keith Ellison

I would love to try his linen shirts. What is the email?

PK

Simon – great post, very informative as always.

I’m considering bespoke shirts from Guy Field in London. Prices seem reasonable and are inline with Luca and Simone. If anyone has experience using them, I would very much appreciate if you could share.

I understand his shirts are made in Italy and has features similar to those from Italian shirt makers. I think having the convenience of someone close by will facilitate getting to a perfect fit quicker vs. travelling tailors.

Having said that I’m also planning to have shirts made by Luca and Simone to compare (although it’ll be a little while when they visit London again). Happy to hear your thoughts.

Anonymous

Does D’Avino do NY trunk shows?

Anonymous

Could you explain how a shirt’s collar should fit in regard to height?

Aaron

You mentioned these shirt makers are better than Kiton, is that based on value for money, or more so quality of the garment and tailoring? I bought from a few tailors however none of those mentions. Kiton in my opinion offers a better shirt fabric, and they’re 50% off at the factory in Napoli. Plus you leave the store with a handmade shirt versus waiting for weeks on end. Thoughts?

Joel

Hi Simon,

I’m getting my first shirt made by Simone Abbarchi in February, I’m looking forward to it. It’s been a long time since I’ve had anything made and I’m going bespoke, not made to measure. The fitting is going to be by FaceTime when he sends me the first make up so should be interesting.

I’ve also got some lovely blue cotton from Alumo that is probably 15 years old so will ask if he can make a second shirt with that.

Do you know much about the shirtmaker Battistoni? They told me their shirts are around 450 euros.

Hareem Farooq

Hello Simon! I hope you doing well, You’re amazing, I blog frequently and I really appreciate your content. Your article has really piqued my interest. Pretty! This was a really wonderful post. Thanks a lot. Stay safe and healthy. 🙂

Faisal

Fiorenzo Auricchio has great designer clothes. I have heard so many things about him. He weaves the suits so well.