How to wear trousers and jacket 

Men increasingly wear separate jackets and trousers. It is an inevitable result of more casual office wear, and dressing down more generally. But separates are hard. Men are not used to combining them effectively, and although I see more nice jackets around – navy hopsack, pale-grey cashmere, tan cottons – the trousers are often problematic.

Following a recent request from a reader for a guide to colours in separate trousers, here’s my top five.


1. Cream

The most versatile trouser colour. Its paleness means it will be sufficiently different to almost any jacket. For those afraid of the possible nautical and/or 1980s connotations, avoid a navy blazer on top and go for grey cashmere, perhaps in a nice herringbone. Trousers could be in flannel, cotton or linen. Cotton chinos will be the most versatile.


2. Grey

Grey flannel trousers should be a central part of every man’s wardrobe. Great with navy knitwear or jackets, and a range of other colours. As with any of these trousers, they can be given a youthful edge by being cut slimmer in the leg, and possibly given a deep turn-up (two inches or more). Pale grey (pictured top) just as good as mid-grey.


3. Brown

Best in moleskin, and in that material extremely versatile as a pairing for navy, light grey or green on top. Can also work surprisingly well in flannel. See article on PA Crowe coming up.


4. Charcoal

My favourite trouser colour at the moment. I have two pair, with my favourites from Elia Caliendo (pictures at all of these links, obviously). When nothing else seems to work on the lower half, go for charcoal. Nice in fresco, or a simple worsted twill (worsted being the finish on wool you get most commonly in suits). A bit of cashmere or a slightly more brushed finish avoids them looking like one half of a suit.


5. Navy

For me, navy works best as a chino. If charcoal is the fallback option for formal trouser-separates, navy is the fallback for casual trousers. Mine are from Incotex (stocked at Trunk) and they are used once or twice a week. I have yet to find a navy wool trouser I like as a separate – it suffers the one-half-of-a-suit problem more than any other colour.


Green can also work well
if it’s dark enough; tan can be very versatile but the subtleties of the shade make all the difference; black should be avoided at all costs.

Remember to have sufficient contrast between jacket and trouser, and if you’re in any doubt about wearing a suit jacket on its own, don’t.

Photo: Luke Carby

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Anonymous

Would love to see a photo of how William Abraham socks wear!

Paul Weide

Hi Simon – thank you for the recommendations. Related question: what pairs well with Blackwatch plaid trousers?

Nick

Great post, and just what I need!

I love the odd jacket, but I find the odd trouser path to be treacherous indeed. I have trouble finding good alternatives on the dressier side of things (flanells etc) — they often feel too much ‘old man’ to me, or like I could just as well have picked a suit (of the slightly rougher variety, admittedly). And so when I go for this type of trouser, I often skip the jacket altogether. One the other side of the spectrum, I have a personal aversion against the khaki pant, as well as many chino models coming dangerously close.

Consequently, I find myself all too often sticking to jeans or corduroys. A trifle limiting, wouldn’t you agree.

So keep the inspiration coming!

Best,
Nick

david crosbie

this comment for me sums it up ideally. I recently purchased a pair of needlecord trousers from Ede & Ravenscroft in dark green. I loved the fabric, the weight and the colour but they were far too oldmanish due to the width of the leg.

I took them to a local tailors (one that had worked with Ede in the past) and had the legs tapered down and shortened slightly.

This simple change transformed the trouser and now they have a far younger and more tailored look about them.

I’ve learned from this very blog that you shouldn’t be afraid to get things altered.

Peter

There are different reasons to fear Alteration. You are privileged to have a tailor you can trust, and even a tailor, as you say, who has worked with E&R. Your remark about the cut of the RTW needlecord trousers is quite valuable for me.

Bertie Wooster

Simon

1. What is the difference between worsted, fresco (your G&H travel coat I guess) and serge? Are they all types of twill weaves?

2. Would you wear flannels as a flat front, or would you have them with pleats and turn-ups (Fred Astaire)

3. Would you ever wear a flat front trouser with turn-ups. I don’t see those often. I personally prefer turn-ups only on pleated trousers

Many thanks

BW

Rabster

Brillant! 
Very , very informative article and a real gem when read along with “Reader question: Wearing odd jackets”.
The two I found extremely useful in helping me establish a future ‘transferable’ wardrobe around jackets and trousers.
I will truly use both articles as a foundation.
More photos around both articles would be good.
I think jackets and different trousers often gets around the too formal / not too casual problem.

A question.
I notice you make no reference to black trousers and / or jeans (although I’m aware of your general dislike of the ‘jeans with everything ‘ look and your preference more so for chinos and flannels.
I think a serious piece on jeans is long overdue ( I hear a lot about Japanese denim).
Also do black trousers ever work ?

Anonymous

black jeans work, definitely.

Anonymous

I think in addition there’s almost another article calling out to be written ,”Shirts / tops to wear with odd jackets “.

Also as summer approaches your thoughts on summer T shirts (if I recall correctly I haven’t seen anything on this subject from you) or are T shirts a definite style no no ?

Bo

Great advice as always Simon. First time commenting for me.

Just out of curiosity, I see most photos of you are taken by Luke (lovely photos at that). How do you manage these at seemingly very spontaneous occasions? Does he travel around with you?

Best,

Paul Weide

Excellent, sir. I note you missed how the pinstripe jacket pairs well with tracksuit bottoms (from your 18 May 2012 post). That said, if anyone has justification to deviate from The Rules, it’s the man who literally wrote the book on dressing the man.

Peter

Very conservative! Your photograph doesn’t show that shade of gray you mean very well. What hsppened to the other colours? Pink, lime green, fuchsia, etc.?

BespokeNYC

Great guide, thanks Simon! After some initial hesitation, I had some grey flannels made by Thom Sweeney and the combination of slim cut and frog mouth pockets definitely counters any old-manishness. They’ve become such a wardrobe staple that I recently commissioned a pair of mid-grey frescoes for the summer months (NYC summers are way too hot for flannel.)

Still haven’t quite worked up the courage for cream trousers but maybe I’ll pull the trigger this summer…

Peter

Frog mouth pockets look very cool and frankly more beautiful than the verticals. But they are seldom found (by me) in RTW, unless Holland &Holland now £225.

Anonymous

Beyond colours, any thoughts on using texture and patterns in trousers?
I was thinking to get a pair of trousers made up in a yellow and brown birdseye, which from a distance looks like khaki.

Anonymous

Can you expand on this, how do we pair in odd jackets and waistcoasts or cardigans?

Julian

Anonymous said – “Can you expand on this, how do we pair in odd jackets and waistcoasts or cardigans?”

Simon said – “A whole other area, but will do at some point”

Please add my voice to Anonymous’s request. Cardigans, and in particular waistcoat cardigans, are a good way to extend the seasons that one can go out wearing an odd jacket without an overcoat coat and still be comfortably warm. I’ve been giving quite a bit of thought to waistcoat cardigans recently, hopefully now in preparation for the 2014 late autumn and early winter seasons rather than early spring since it’s tempting today to believe that summer is almost upon us in London.

– Julian

Peter

Waistcoats are beautiful, especially in silk. I always wear a waistcoat with my jacket.

Martyn Edwards

Waistcoats certainly are a good way to obviate the need for a coat in the shoulder seasons Autumn and Spring., thereby extending the usage of a jacket and avoiding the encumbrance of having to wear a coat.

Having a waistcoat proper with internal wallet pockets is also more secure than a wallet pocket in the inside of a jacket.

A waistcoat also stops a tie from flapping around.

One thing to remmeber when buying a waistcoat is that it is better to have the back made in the same material as the front. Width across the shoulders is also important.

Try Molehole for moleskin waistcoats. The small company is run by a lady who is very pleasant and helpful. Old-fashioned approach to doing business and nothing is too much trouble. She closed her business down but I hope that she will be reopening soon.

Anonymous

Hi Simon,
Do you consider your advice concerning “sufficient contrast between jacket and trouser” is useful for short men?
Being vertically restricted myself, I prefer to avoid this contrast and manage with one colour or keep it to close colours in the palette.

Ian Arnold

So if I’m 5 feet 7 inches and don’t want to draw attention to this fact I may be better off going for a suit in a casual colour or texture than a sport coat/ odd trouser ensemble?

Ian Arnold

Thanks

facebook_oscar.guail

Hi Simon,
I wonder if you consider your advice concerning “sufficient contrast between jacket and trouser” is of use for short men.
Being vertically restricted myself I always keep the palette restricted to just one colour.

Anonymous

Hi Simon, thanks for the right article at the right time, as I’m currently looking for summer trousers.
What would be your recommendation for spring-summer? The cream chinos I suppose, but like BespokeNYC I’m still hesitating a bit, and would rather get tobacco or navy chinos. Mid, or lighter grey frescos sound an interesting as well. Any other alternatives?

I know you prefer black shoes for charcoal suits, but what do you wear with charcoal trousers?

Best regards,
A

CS

Very useful! One question if I may: what jackets do you find work best with the navy chinos?

Tony

Hi Simon,

I am a big fans of your style. Something similar I want to develop on myself.

I just spent time to read through your previous post to try to get some pocket square purchase because I always thing you wear them very nicely. I could not find the exact thing. Would you consider making a post sharing how to choose, which brand to consider, preferred material and size, color and pattern for harmony?

It will be very much appreciated. Again, nice job on your outfit and blog! Congrat.

AO

Thanks Simon very helpful. I’m trying to expand beyond the dreaded demin and although I have two pairs of cords, tan and navy, would like to experiment with flannels, linens and others.

I’m always shocked when wearing proper trousers at just how uncomfortable jeans actually are. No stretch or give. And I have a lovely pale green tweed jacket that would benefit from the brown moleskin combination you outlined above…

AO

Hi Simon, question below.

Over the next couple of weeks I plan to invest in a good leather bag I can use for it every day. I need it to be fairly large (at least larger than a slimline briefcase), so it can fit in lunch and a water bottle as well as work stuff, and handheld rather than a shoulder bag so it doesn’t damage jackets and knitwear.

I’m also thinking of brown, as my office is casual and I will almost always be wearing brown shoes so a black bag won’t match and will most likely look a little too formal.

My budget is basically as low as is realistic for a fully leather bag. Yesterday, I did some browsing in central London and came up with these as a shortlist:

http://www.debenhams.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/prod_10701_10001_083010186573_-1

http://www.simoncarter.net/collections/index.aspx#!/~/product/category=328520&id=10185497

One is from Patrick Grant’s budget brand, the other is from Simon Carter. I think they’re both fairly clean and elegant. Unfortunately, they’re both quite bulky but this is the size I’m going to need if I want to carry all of my stuff in one bag.

I’m just wondering if you have any thought/advice on my general line of thought and those two bags in particular? Any knowledge of those brands?

AO

Thanks Simon, I’ve read all of the relevant articles. Guess I’ll have to go back and look at each one closer.

I am also aware I said I’d show you my gloves from Jamrozinski. Will do this as soon as I’ve had the chance to photograph them.

Sam

Simon,
Do you know of a cloth book that has cream flannel? I’d like to make up a pair but can’t seem to find a book that has cream flannels. Thanks.

Peter

But don’t ask Fox about lightweight flannel in jackets, because if you Dance and sweat, their expert will take for granted one knows Perspiration changes the flannel surface.

George.

Simon Hi. Blogs great help. Just moved into EC4. Any ideas for dry cleaning valet service etc… Used the usual but not that happy.
Thanks
G

Julian

What is the blue jacket that you’re wearing? It’s absolutely exquisite. The balance is fantastic on you. The height of the buttoning point, the degree of waist suppressions and the amount of the cutaway of the front quarters is, in my view, judged to absolute perfection.

Since this is a trouser post I will mention that my quest for a relatively affordable supplier of casual trousers continues. I spoke to Cad & The Dandy on the phone yesterday to see what they might offer and was quite surprised. The price grid on their web site is for their basic MTM service but for only a £60 premium on a trouser-only order (compared to a £400 premium for a full suit) they will do the trousers at their full bespoke level i.e. complete with basted fitting which I wasn’t getting for trouser-only orders at Graham Brown and with a proper paper pattern cut. That’s a starting price of only £250 for the cheapest price band, i.e. with the cheapest cloths. They quoted me £340 for a Minnis flannel which still seems quite reasonable. Clearly the price uplift for going to their top-tier service is far less for a trousers-only order because the issue of going to a full canvass is not applicable for trousers and is what presumably accounts for a lot of the £400 uplift for a suit.

I haven’t commissioned anything yet so I have no idea of quality but the price sounds right and I hear they have some good cutters, e.g. Jon deBoise, the older brother of Edwin deBoise from Steed. This sounds as if it could potentially be the perfect solution for me. Have you any experience of Cad & the Dandy? My investigation has revealed mostly good things about them although inevitably on the internet there’s always the odd negative comment. I’m definitely going to commission something in the next few weeks to see what sort of fit I can get.

– Julian

Peter

Dear Simon,

What nautical and 1980’s connonations does cream provoke to your mind?

Gerard

Hello Simon
I as so many others greatly appreciate reading your articles, it has been great to discover your writings which address questions many out there are thinking but might not know where or how to raise.
I am thinking of having my first odd jacket made and I really like the look of the dark blue one with the blue windowpane check shown at the top of the article. Apologies if you’ve shared details of this cloth previously but you mind doing so again please? As I would potentially like to commission a piece with this cloth. Thank you very much and look forward to reading future articles.
Gerard

Anonymous

Thank you for the reply Simon

Chris

As a wearer of odd jackets and trousers, never a suit, I’d like to ask about the benefits of bespoke v off the peg for legwear. I’m taking delivery of my first bespoke sport jacket soon and thinking of ordering a couple of pairs of chinos to be made up when I collect and wondered if it’s really worth going the bespoke route with trousers that aren’t part of a suit? Looking at Incotex chinos the cost difference between those or bespoke from my tailor of choice is only a few pounds.

Chris

Thanks Simon,
I ordered RTW but will ask when I collect the jacket as well.

Anon

What do you think about sharkskin odd trousers? In mid-grey,w ith a dry finish? Too suit-y?

Durnkayzor

What color of trouser can I wear with a wine jacket or suit

Eric

Hi Simon. I’m a bit late to this post, but I was wondering what jacket colors you wear with charcoal pants. I’m a big fan of charcoal pants, but the Internet consensus here in the States seems to be that they’re not very useful because (1) they’re too dark to pair with navy, and (2) they require lighter jackets, which for some reason are frowned upon. I’d love to hear your suggestions.

Barak

Simon,

With respect to moleskin trousers, what’s the best way to pair them with a sports coat? Flannel, or something more casual, like herringbone or tweed?

Reader

Dear Simon,

Have I overlooked mention of seersucker trousers here? What is your experience and feeling about seersucker, Simon?

Reader

Dear Simon,

Thank you. Do you disfavour seersucker as trouser cloth because of its rolled surface, which you find for trouser ugly? Is your judgment because seersucker fails to fulfill criteria for trouser cloth, or because because seersucker has attributes which disqualify it?

Reader

PS: You accept seersucker suit, so it must be the relationship of non-seersucker odd jacket to seersucker trouser somehow?

Reader

OK, if that’s your feeling, I’ll respect it. But for me to changr my intention to buy two pairs of seersucker trousers on sale your feeling is not enough.

Elizabeth

I’m not 100% sure this is the right post to ask this question in, but I’m wondering if it’s correct to wear light grey trousers that have a pale blue pinstripe, with a navy blue suit jacket? I’m a woman and I don’t work in a corporate office so I know I have more leeway than the very traditional male suit options, but I don’t want to look like I just threw on whatever I found first. The jacket is slightly heavier weight than the trousers, I’d be happy wearing them together if the trousers were solid grey, my only real query is wearing a pinstripe piece with a solid colour piece. Thanks in advance!

nick inkster

Morning Simon

Just spotted your comment on not being able to find a good navy wool for trousers. I have a pair made from a VBC hopsack, which has plenty of texture and which screams “informal”. They work well with anything from Harris Tweed in all its shades, to a plain white shirt and charcoal sweater.

shem

Hey simon,

Any thoughts on what fabric of grey odd pants works with a navy linen jacket?
I worn a couple of my VBC 110s worsted wool trousers and none of them look right right it…

David Bresch

I think brownish jackets can look okay with grey bottoms. If one peruses the web and the photo-rich texts we all know, this is frequently depicted. My tailor has always told me this is not good. I remember a woman at work actually telling me my grey trousers looked bad with a gun club jacket. Why do some people like this combo and others think it is a no-no?

Don Ferrando

Dear Mr Crompton.
Recently I had made a DB corduroy jacket, same color as your corduroy suit.
What kind and color of pants would you choose to combine with the jacket?
(multiple chooses appreciatetd)
Thank you very much in advance.

Don Ferrando

Thank you.
For the dark green: what kind of cloth. Would you disadvise against dark green corduroy?

Paddy

Hi Simon,

I’ve been struggling in finding the right trouser colour and material to pair with my odd slatey grey cord jacket…..
charcoal worsted trouser? Navy/ beige chino?

What would you say?

Hans

Hi Simon,
Thanks for this article! It is helpful!
I have a desert sand color suit made in wool/linen/silk. Can you give me some advise to pair this kind of jacket? Which color and material of trousers are suitable for this jacket? Thank you!

shem

Hey Simon,

I’m considering a purchase for my first double breasted jacket (https://thearmoury.com/products/ring-jacket-wool-balloon-amj06-sport-coat?variant=37895984399).

Considering I’m only going to wear it in casual holiday settings (but for colder climate), what are your thoughts about pairing this with more casual trousers (jeans and armoury army chinos etc.)?

Thanks!

Shem

Thanks Simon. I’m wondering is there any cloth or style one can have in a double breasted sportscoat for it to go well with casual trousers? Or is there only a small extent for a double breasted to be dressed down given that the style is already quite formal? Thanks

Don Clarkin

I’m a lot late on this post but I have a question about moleskin trousers. I like the idea of brown moleskin but how should they be styled? Flat front w/ no turnup? Seems like I might as well be wearing chinos at that point.

Thanks for your time and your insights.

Don Clarkin

Thanks Simon! I really appreciate how much time you give to us. I have one other question. I’m wondering what brands you might recommend for RTW trousers. I am in the market for grey flannels right now and Nashville does not have any good bespoke tailors that I am aware of. I have ordered from luxire and the trouser from them is good but not good enough for five pairs if you know what I mean.

Bernie Leung

Hi Simon,

Taking your advice and planning some bespoke chinos but unclear on weight. For example, in the Bay Area in California, would a Dugdale 310g cotton twill be considered a 3 season fabric (excluding winter)? How much wrinkling should I expect?

Bernie Leung

Thanks for your input. I guess only winter weight cotton will have less wrinkling but won’t be wearable in 70-80 and even 90s.

Shem

Hey Simon, how versatile is a pair of dark brown crispaire as an odd trouser?
Asking from the context of a wearing them with dress/oxford shirts, open necked, without a jacket.

Johannes

For a pair of odd brown moleskin trousers would you recommend going with pleats and turn-ups or isn’t that fabric suitable to do turn-ups on?

Henry

Simon, kindly advise me if mid-gray flannel trousers would work with cream heavy cotton safari jacket? Regards Henry

Anonymous

Hi Simon,

I’m going to commission one pair of MTM grey flannel trousers. I’m deciding between no pleat and 2 pleats (reverse). My figure is slim and the pleats would add some needed volume. However, would two pleats look too formal for sweaters, and look like a suit separate?

Would this be a good weight/color in California? It looks a bit lighter than your Sexton pairs.
https://www.themerchantfox.co.uk/collections/classic-flannel/products/370g-mid-grey-fox-flannel?variant=22119511752822

Much appreciated

Anonymous

I do like single pleats, but they tend to accentuate my slim build, making me look pencil thin. I may try two to experiment.

Will 10/11 oz grey flannel better suit LA weather than 13/14? I go between LA and Santa Barbara (22 degrees c) and find my 15/16 oz WBill cords are quite handy during the Santa Barbara winter (18 degrees c). Do you mean something lighter is better year-round in southern California as opposed to winter?

Anonymous

Don’t mean to contradict you Simon, but in a Cerrato comment a year ago you mentioned that you used to have 11oz flannels but prefer 13 or 14.5oz now. You noted that there isn’t much difference in the heat and they retain their shape better — does this still hold true? I don’t mean to pick at details but am curious.

Anonymous

What does “woolen spun” flannel here mean, Simon? https://apparel.hollandandsherry.com/en/7718202-classic-woollen-flannel-mid-gray-solid

I’m planning for my first (and only) pair of grey flannels, perhaps with that swatch.

Also, would you prioritize dark green moleskin trousers or cream flannel (like your Elia trousers)? Danke!

Ryan

Simon,

In your opinion, when it comes to wool trousers, which weaves are the most casual that would help create that smart casual look?

Darren

Hi Simon,

I have been using your capsules to expand my wardrobe – thank you! I am curious on your thoughts about 5-pocket pants? When and where should they be worn? (if ever) 5-pocket and casual sport coat? I tend to like “old school” style…These pants have also surged in popularity on the golf course.

Zohair

What weight brown moleskin do you recommend against tailored jackets? Will weightier moleskin hold a better crease or the other way round? Also have you had any experience with cotton cavalry twill (i can find a lot of wool cavalry twill on our website, not cotton). Thanks
Thanks!

shem

hi simon, happy new year to you.

Wanted to ask: Apart from the typical array of greys (light-mid-charcoal), what color in wool (excluding navy) could one consider making up as an odd trouser for office wear? Asking in the context of wearing the trouser mostly on its own without a jacket. I find colours such as olive/tan/khaki often work better in cottons instead of wool

Antonio

I’d like to have your advice about how to wear a pair of smart navy Incotex chino, and if they should have a turn up like suit trousers or if it is better to roll up the edge like a jeans.
Thank you in advance. Antonio

Karol

Simon, thanks for the awesome content! I’d like to ask you a question – which of those colors would you recommend on corduroy odd trousers? I absolutely can’t afford bespoke at the moment, so RTW is the only way for me. But the only relatively smart winter trousers available at my price point are corduroys – I was lucky to get a discounted pair of gray flannels, even though they are probably worsted. By far I have bought burgundy cords, which were probably a mistake. What other colours would be better?

Karol

Thank you! Actually cream for me is suprisingly durable when it comes to dirt and dust, even though I live in a famously filthy city 🙂 At least when it comes to chinos

DA

I’ve just acquired a vintage Harris tweed jacket that has a light tan/ khaki as the base color. Most of my pants tend to be cream/ stone or medium grey. I know it’s difficult without seeing a photo, but would cream/ stone trousers or chinos be too close to the jacket to pull off? I thought the contrast in fabrics would be enough to make it doable, but I’m not sure it works.

DA

Thanks! I’m not a fan of the tonal outfit approach, so perhaps I’m hyper-sensitive to getting enough contrast in my outfits when I’m not in a suit. I’ll have to play around with the combinations a bit more.

Rupesh Bhindi

Hi Simon,

Please could you advise the fabric details of the charcoal flannel trousers from Elia Caliendo and also suggest a light grey fabric for flannels which you already have?

Thanks

Rupesh

Rupesh

Hi Simon,

Would a 420g mustard( hint of olive)colour cotton twill from Holland and sherry be useful to have in a trousers as I have seen you wear with blue denims? I am guessing probably hard to match with Blazers.

Anonymous

How versatile are chocolate brown linen trouser and wool silk linen dark green trouser? Thank you.

Zo

Why would you advise against? I was thinking of getting a pair in that mix for the summer.

Anonymous

Hi Simon,

I’m considering buying a pair of Stoffa “cotton canvas” trousers in chocolate brown color. How versatile would you say these would be? Have you had any experience with their cotton canvas?

Also, other than black shoes, what color of shoes would you recommend? Thank you.

Ravi

Hi Simon,

I know you said chino works best for a navy odd pair of trousers, but do you think wool cavalry twill would also work? My thinking is getting a cavalry twill navy suit would be versatile enough to be worn as a suit and separates, both in terms of the jacket and trousers.

Many thanks!

Anonymous

Hi Simon – if buying brown and green (dark) trousers, (one moleskin, one corduroy), is there a particularly way around you would recommend? In the above article you say that brown is “Best in moleskin”. Just in another article (can’t remember which) I noticed you are wearing some rather nice brown corduroy’s. Or am I over complicating things? Thanks in advance

AB

You said that navy would be your fall back option for a pair of casual trousers and that navy typically works better with chinos rather than a wool. In that case, do you prefer navy chinos over a pair in khaki or olive? Those are the chinos I see recommended almost universally. Also, I assume that when you said cream would work best as a chino, you were referring to that while wearing a jacket, correct? So, the navy chinos would be your go to when not wearing a jacket, correct?

AB

In terms of the knitwear, does it still revolve around having enough contrast between the bottom and the top or are there other principles that also come into play?

AB

Thanks! You mentioned that khaki was the pair of chinos that you tend to wear the most and also in the post you said that the subtleties of the shade of khaki make the difference. Could you elaborate a bit more on which shade of khaki you think to be the better choice or how you would personally wear each shade? In general, I’ve tended to see 2 shades of khaki (I apologize if I’m not using the proper terms, but this is just how I thought about them): the yellow-ish pair similar to your Armoury chinos and a dusty pair similar to your Real McCoy’s chinos. What would you say the different use cases for each pair would be/how would you wear them or which do you prefer/recommend?

AB

Do you think that the yellow-ish shade of khaki is more allusive to a pair of workwear chinos than to the standard pair of khaki chinos that’s become pretty much ubiquitous in casual menswear?

So, in your opinion, a good starting point for a rotation of casual chinos would be a pair of navy chinos and a pair of dusty khaki/beige chinos?

P.A.

Hi Simon,

after a lot of research, I found a pair of grey flannel trousers that looks like it ticks all the boxes : 12,7oz, side tabs, single pleat, high rise, and good finishing.

There are 2 shades of grey and I’m unsure which one to pick as the most versatile : medium grey, or charcoal grey ? mostly to go to the office, to pair with knitwear or a navy blazer.

Thanks

P.A.

Thanks,
On my way to try them on to see them in the flesh (or in the cloth) to help with my decision.
Based on what you say, I might go for the mid grey.

Lindsay McKee

If I may add to your No.1 reference to Cream Trousers.
Have a look at the Dugdale Invincible Bunch Nos:-
INV022 CREAM TWILL
INV026 CREAM FINE CAVALRY TWILL- particularly beautiful !!

W.BILL :- WB 16220 – heavy cavalry twill.

I have these swatches …would love to try INV026 in particular.
What kind of jacket and colour would best suit INV026….a part of me screams Electric Blue but maybe something more muted!!!

Edmond

Interesting how the number one recommendation here (cream) is now a trousers’ colour you hardly wear, according to the article on how your style has evolved over the past fifteen years. Simply reflects that style is a journey.
Might be worth refreshing some of these wardrobe building articles (which are great by the way, as per the rest of this blog), as I understand you would not put things in that order if you were to write this article today, and some people for sure still use them – I know I have very recently, for instance, but hopefully went for another grey flannels instead of cream.

Christopher Grate

Hi Simon, great article. I’m currently in the process of deciding the next color to add to my trouser collection. I have the base fundamentals but I’m missing cream and grey.

Two questions, one, when you refer to cream are you specifically mentioning a pale cream or a warm ivory with yellow undertones? Second, while I only have one pair of smart trousers (a beautiful brown cotton gabardine from the Solbiati bunch) I live such a casual life that I don’t much feel the need for a smart grey trouser, but perhaps something that is smart like wool in a color that is more casual like sand or ash green (I’m also afraid that cream might accentuate my large hips too much).

What do you suggest?

Christopher Grate

Hi Simon, thank you for your advise. My chief concern with grey is that I just don’t like the way it looks with my skin tone. However, your advise has been solid thus far so I’ll explore those colors and see if I can find a shade that is right for me.