Escorial jacket Solito bespoke

  
There are many ways in which you can make a sartorial outfit look younger or more modern. Extremes are always wrong: very short jackets, big puffy shoulders. They just look trendy, for a bit. 

But aside from the extremes, I would argue proportions are also the wrong place to start. Focus on small changes in colour or texture instead. Wear a navy flannel suit, rather than a navy worsted. Wear a denim shirt, instead of a poplin. Wear more muted or less corporate colours. 
  

Escorial jacket Solito bespoke with Pardesso trousers

  
Take this green jacket, for instance, in a beautiful Escorial wool. If you hadn’t seen the photo, and someone said it was a green jacket with a big windowpane check, the first thing that would pop into your head would be a countrified tweed hacking jacket. Very old-fashioned, or at least very vintage. 

But the shade of green here is actually a muted olive. There is less colour, less pigment in the yarn, plus a dose of grey, which dials down the country factor. It makes it feel more urban, as most greys do. 

And the overcheck is not a bright popping orange or red. It is a deep purple, dark and subtle against the green. 
  

Escorial jacket Solito bespoke grey shirt

  
I love Escorial cloth, by the way – it’s a merino fibre but almost as soft as cashmere, and with an incredible amount of natural stretch. That helps it recover when you’re travelling, and makes it easier to wear all day long. More on them later.

This jacketing cloth is ESC22 quality, A1009 design, A1 colour. Escorial are only just at the start of their process of offering woollen jacketings, so this is not available in all bunches, but cut lengths can be obtained from Kristie Reeves at Joshua Ellis, who are making it (kristie.r[email protected]uk). 

The jacket was made by Solito, who are here in London next week (April 14-16) with Luca Avitabile shirts. And in New York again at the end of the month (April 20-22). Contact at [email protected] 
  

Escorial jacket Solito bespoke dunhill bag copy

 

  
The cream wool trousers are from Elia Caliendo in Holland & Sherry’s super-heavy Pardessus cloth. The shirt is my brushed grey-cotton from Simone Abbarchi. And the brown knitted-silk tie is from Drake’s. Canvas and leather doctor’s bag from Dunhill.

Below, with Tommaso doing the ‘Lino’ thumbs up. He wears popping orange well.
  

Escorial jacket Solito bespoke with Tommaso Capozzoli

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Frank

Very interesting indeed, thank you.
Simon, what is your take on a bottle green blazer? Would it be too formal/restricting? But then olive could be a little autumnal, depending on shades, no?
Also, what is the cloth’s weight? Thanks 🙂

An Italian in London

I’m a longtime reader of your blog and I usually appreciate all your outfits, but this time I simply love it. Quintessentially elegant!

Thomas

Great post Simon! Could you shed some light on the travelling shirtmaker process? I am thinking of swapping from T&A, and so wanted to ask about Luca’s cost, minimum orders when travelling and turnaround time for shirts, whether you need many fittings and how that effects the length of the process. Thank you for the help!

Thomas

They do the fitting when they next come to London, or when you come to Naples, in a couple months? Sorry, did you know Luca’s current cost for shirts?Thanks

DE

Simon, there seems to be some excess cloth in the chest of the jacket by the arm holes (the 1st and 3rd photos show it best) and it looks roomier than your normal cut around the upper chest and shoulders – am I imagining things or is this the Solito house cut, to accommodate a jumper on colder days, for movement purposes or just the way you are standing?

Andreas

Wow! Great outfit in every aspect Simon.

Really interesting choice with the Pardessus fabric for the trousers.

I went with a cloth from that book for my recent commission of a B&Tailor Polo Coat and was at first a bit worried it would be to heavy 🙂

Anonymous

Simon
I went into RL (in Greenwich CT, one of their flagships) and looked at some of their stuff. All their clothes for suitings felt extremely fine, light or wispy (even their heavier clothes) with a bit of sheen. Have you encountered this before?

Bradley

Hi Simon
Something about this ensemble does not work for me. Grey may be fashionable at the moment but grey is – well – grey! This will explain why we call a miserable day – a grey day. The top half is all muted and drab looking (apart from the pop of white in the pocket square) and soft whilst the bottom half is light apart from the socks which appear too dark for the entire outfit. For me this does not work. However, the cream trousers are stunning and very different. Hardly anyone wears such a light colour and that makes it sing. I would liked to have seen more detail on them – any chance?
Regards
Bradley

Dan Ippolito

I partially agree with Bradley – the individual items are all beautiful (especially the jacket), but the totality of the effect is a little drab. A purple tie might have brightened the outfit up a bit (at the risk of being matchy-matchy). On a different note, this is not the kind of outfit that would flatter a “winter” complexion

Anonymous

Simon
Any experience on Ftizpatrick (shoe snob) shoes? Similar price point to C&J etc, but look very high quality. Would be great to hear thoughts

Anonymous

Good to know, thanks. Apart from C&J at that price who else?
Sorry to bother you with this, I know you like to stick to more bespoke / MTM exclusively now

S

Where would you place Wildsmith among these? I love the design but have never tried them.

Best,
S

John

Hi,
There made by Alfred Sargent. So you trust the make!
John

S

Thanks John and Simon!

S

PP

Very inspirational post, thanks Simon.
May I ask you about the weight of the jacket cloth?

John

Hi Simon,
This is a lovely outfit, despite contrary comments made above.
These specific trousers aside, what else would you wear this jacket with?
And if you were to wear it with … say, corduroy (!) – don’t worry, I know your taste – which color and which kind would you pick up then?
Thanks for your reply.
John

John

Nice alternatives indeed!

John

I hope a last query on this subject: would your choices of trousers be the same, if it were a tweed jacket? As you know, there are tweed jackets, which feature quite the same pattern.

Nick Inkster

If you really wanted to let your hair down, a good pair of jeans would go well……

Sandeep

Simon, I heard that Escorial creases easily and needs regular pressing. Any comments on if this is a garment you will travel in?

Anonymous

Dear Simon,
On the question with respect to bespoke shirts, I made an enquiry to D’Avino last year hoping to give him a try. He had a minimum order of 3 shirts. I was unable to confirm when or where he would visit the UK. Has the minimum order changed and might you know details of his next visit?

Anonymous

Did Luigi supply the fabric or did you buy it separately from Joshua Ellis? If the latter, what was the price breakdown of the components (cloth from Joshua Ellis and cost of making the coat)? Also, what length of cloth did you need for the jacket?

Anonymous

Was wondering if we’re able to recall the cost for Solito to make the jacket and the length of fabric you ordered?

Daniel

Hello Simon. I have a question for you. Im going to book an apointment with Solito next time they are visiting London for some orders. Im planning to ordering 2 bespoke sports coat. What would you recommend as first 2 bespoke sports coats for the wardrobe and in what weights? Thanks

Anonymous

I like what you have tried to do here Simon – thank you. I have a similar jacket, more green with wine checks but have had trouble forming an outfit with it as I usually head for a ‘country’ palette. The use of grey to dial it down gives me some ideas and I love the trousers. I would have gone for lighter socks but overall a new, innovative look. Thanks also for the info re Escorial I love Merino but hadn’t heard of it before. A review on the Dunhill bag as a travelling companion would also be welcome.

Brandon Smith

Hi Simon,
I’m surprised by the heaviness of the trousers. Do you not find that they are too warm? Do you get them unlined to help keep them from being too hot?
Cheers,
B.

Greg

Great post – thanks Simon
I’m not a fan of the large check, but love the olive colour, fit and finish etc. Actually, Tommaso’s jacket (which appears to be an olive tweed in the photo) looks the sort I’d be more likely to wear. Do you have any information about it? Thanks – Greg

Greg

I was afraid you’d say that! Thanks for taking the time to respond – Greg

Il vecchio

I thought this outfit was VERY stylish really first rate. One thing though. My own absolute obsession since I have many A&S sports coats bought when I was still working some years ago and which are of a length which now looks too long and droopy and dated, is that modern Italian tailors make stuff shortish. This jacket however looks longer to me – more “. English” length. Am I right?

Enzo

Simon
What would be a nice fabric for a navy blazer suited for autumn- winter?

Enzo

The jacket I have in mind is quite sporty and a similar configuration to the hopsack I already own: full canvass, natural shoulders, patch hip pockets, contrasting buttons.
Something hard wearing and that can be worn with gray flannel trousers

LM

Great jacket Simon, but I have to agree with most comments here that the trousers are even better. And I am a big fan of grey jackets. I have never heard of Escorial fabrics except for the quality/marketing denominations of the H&S line. Is it the same type of fabric?

Cheers, Laurent

Reuven Lax

I’ve been happy with custom shirts from Edward Sexton for more formal outfits, and with a tie; their standard designs might be a bit rakish for some people though. Up until now I’ve used Cad and the Dandy’s shirtmaking service for more casual shirts. Luckily Luca’s next visit coincides with mine, so I’ll get to try out his service!

suffolk

For my taste, that jacket is a little too muted. But it is truly beautifully made.

Hazwan

Where can we find a similar bag nowadays Simon? Is it called a doctor bag?

Anonymous

Anything on Kathryn Sargent coming up? Just heard on Radio 4 shes about to open the doors of her new place!

Anonymous

How is she as a tailor? Surprised you haven’t covered her yet!

Anonymous

After you’ve had several jackets made by a tailor such as Solito and the tailor has a finished pattern you’re happy with, are you able to order jackets remotely without any fittings?

William Gambrill

Simon: I am curious to know how you think about your cashmere navy blazer in the context of your wardrobe. Do you wear the cashmere, navy Solito in the winter and the DB, navy hopsack from Caliendo in the summer? Do you have a 11-13 ounce hopsack navy blazer as well. I am trying to rationalize whether there is room for three navy blazer. Thoughts?

William Gambrill

Understood. What was the cashmere weight and make you used for for the solito jacket? I think that a steven Hitchcock DB blazer in that baby cashmere would look great

Anonymous

For anyone interested in Escorial cloth, you can find a selection via the below link.

http://www.pepperlee.co.uk/jacketing/composition/100-escorial-wool-/show/all.html

Anonymous

How well has your Escorial jacket held up with regard to wear? Is it a hardy fabric or has it suffered the same wear problems as your Zegna cashmere jacket?

Anonymous

Can I ask what wear problems you had with your Zegna cashmere jacket?

Anonymous

Oh dear! I’ve just bought a jacket length of 10oz 100% cashmere. Would you expect the wear problems you experienced to be the case with other cashmere jacketing?

Anonymous

Fingers crossed! I love the fabric. It’s mid-grey in a barley corn weave.

Dave

Beautiful chromatic scheme here, Simon. Your palette, especially with so called “country” colors reminds me not a little of one of my fellow Americans, Winslow Homer.
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Justin

Hi Simon, there trousers look great! Due to the heavy cloth, do you use a belt or side adjusters (you mentioned in the side adjuster post, that side adjusters do not work well with heavy cloths)? Furthermore, on my quest for a decent tailor, I have found one, who has the following cloths available (Scabal, Holland&Sherry, Dormeul, Cacciopoli, Zegna, Cerruti, Loro Piana, VBC). Although I would love to have him make trousers from H&S Pardessus, would there be other cloths, that you have found particulary good and more versatile (except for grey flannels)? Thanks!

Su'uch

Simon, the jacket looks great. Everything Luigi and his Dad have made for me are really very good – never would have heard of them if it weren’t for you, so thanks. This escorial looks nice: would it make up OK as a suit?

Su'uch

Thanks again on both counts, Simon.

Ian A

I’ve got some RTW Rubinacci brown Cashmere Trousers with faded checks! Very comfortable and I use them more than my RTW Ralph Lauren Grey Flannel! I haven’t noticed issues with shape.

I recently had a suit made by Solito and for the first time saw the value in bespoke trousers as I usually don’t need a jacket anyway. Nice and tapered at the bottom of the legs and all in proportion. If you have short legs like me getting the fit right strikes me as for me it is very important so as not to draw more negative attention to this area.

Bernie

Hi Simon,

In regards to the shirt dead space between the lapels of a jacket, I’ve noticed some tailors create a droopy U-shape while others have more of a V-shape. The P Johnson linen blue jacket is a prime example of the droopy U, whereas Elia Caliendo has a more erect V-shape which is more masculine.

Do you know what is behind this effect? Solito jackets seem to be right in the middle of the spectrum, and was wondering if they could cut a stronger V shape as I think they will be coming to Los Angeles, which is within reasonable distance of San Francisco.

Bernie

Thanks for the explanation

Hugh

Are you still a fan of Escorial? Have you had any other pieces made up in it? Why do you think it doesn’t seem to be more popular, considering it’s apparent virtues? Considering escorial vs cashmere for a navy jacket (3 patch pockets, pale horn buttons, English drape), would you recommend it for such a commission? I’m struggling to see downsides but it seems that cashmere, tweed, or a traditional fabric like serge are always more popular for such a piece.

Darren

Hi Simon,
I noticed this is an old thread but it is closely relevant to what I will like to ask:
What do you think about commissioning whole suit with escorial wool?
I heard there’s durability issues, especially for the pants knee area
Very interested in the undyed escorial wool 320g
Any comments will be appreciated! Thank you!

Rupesh

Hi Simon,

What was the cost of the jacket being made by Solito and the cost of the fabric which I believe you bought or did Solito offered the fabric at the time?

Kind regards

Rupesh

Anonymous

Hi Simon,

Would the 260g Escorial wool runs a lot hotter than wool in the same weight? I am planning to commission a suit in 260g Escorial wool but am afraid it will be too hot for the temperature in Asia.

Anonymous

Thank you for the reply Simon. Would the drape and softness of escorial wool be a lot different from VBC Revenge 160 to a point that it justifies the huge price difference?