Dalcuore bespoke brown Crispaire suit

Thursday, June 23rd 2016
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Dalcuore brown suit

I was pleasantly surprised by the fit of this bespoke suit from Dalcuore in Naples, given I was a new customer and they were happy with just a single fitting. 

The jacket was a great fit straight off - clean through the chest, perfect on the shoulders, waist and hips. The collar could be a touch tighter (it stands away a little more than it has to when I lean or move) and the sleeves a centimetre longer, but that's about it. 

Dalcuore's style is pretty standard Neapolitan: soft, natural shoulder; 'shirt sleeve' attachment to that shoulder; rounded fronts. But there are some small differences from others like Solito and Caliendo: the jacket is a tad longer, and the fit a little less close through the waist. It feels easy, but elegant. 

Dalcuore with frank clegg bag

We had some issues with the trouser fit - they were too tight through the seat and thigh, and the end of the waistband wasn't closed properly. This should have been easy to correct, even remotely, but in the end it proved rather difficult.  

I sent the trousers back in the post, and detailed the issues with photos to illustrate. When they returned, the waistband issue hadn't been corrected and the fit was a lot better in the seat and thigh, but now a little too big in the waist. 

We managed to get the fit right during Pitti last week - when I met Gigi and Damiano again, and they could see the trousers in person. I chalk it up to the benefits of always seeing a tailor in person, rather than trying to do anything through photos or email. (Or indeed having a second fitting.)

Dalcuore suit naples

Dalcuore bespoke suit

Dalcuore suits are well priced, at 3000 euros sitting between the cheaper Solito (2500) and the more expensive Caliendo (3500). The finishing is also good, and as long as they visit London fairly regularly, I'd recommend them as a good Neapolitan option. 

They are back in London from June 30 to July 3, with the last visit during February. It's hard as they are currently travelling to more than a dozen countries worldwide, but I have suggested that it would be helpful to come a little more often. 

Frank Clegg briefcase

The material is dark-brown Crispaire from Holland & Sherry. Regular readers will know how fond I've become of this cloth, and I think it is particularly sharp in a dark shade like this. 

It's not an easy colour to wear, but I find colours like greys and black work well in a tie, with a white or very pale blue shirt. 

The tie pictured here is an untipped, houndstooth wool from Drake's. The handkerchief is from Etro. And I'm wearing my bespoke imitation wing-tips from Cleverley. 

These images were taken for an upcoming campaign for Frank Clegg bags, hence the presence of a Clegg bag in almost all the shots. The brown bag is the Birmingham Briefcase ($990) and the tan the Zip-Top Briefcase ($1,135).

Dalcuore suit and check tie

Photography: Jamie Ferguson @jkf_man