This post was originally written in 2012, following a request from a reader. It was a breakdown of all the tailors I have tried, split into different countries.
I have endeavoured to update it now, bringing the list and experiences up to date and combining two original posts into one.
There are now links in all the descriptions to posts elsewhere on the site, making this a useful jumping off point for anyone looking to research bespoke tailors.
There are 39 tailors in all, which is too many by anyone’s standards. I certainly wouldn’t recommend that someone pursue this course towards bespoke, or maintain this number of tailors. One to three is more like it (see post ‘How many tailors do you need?‘ here).
However, hopefully it is a useful resource for anyone looking for personal experiences and reviews of the world’s best in bespoke.
United Kingdom
Anderson & SheppardThe biggest exponent of the ‘drape cut’, with soft shoulders and fullness of cloth in the chest and back. Together with a closely cut waist, it gives the illusion of a bigger chest and is very comfortable. Some think that the soft shoulders are unflattering.
It is among the cheaper houses on the Row, and I particularly like the double-breasted style as it has a relatively broad lapel with plenty of belly. Most of my suits are from A&S, cut by John Hitchcock.
Chittleborough & MorganThe finest finish of any English tailors, learning from the French in their buttonholes among other things, Chittleborough was founded by two cutters from the legendary Tommy Nutter shop, where Edward Sexton was the head cutter. Roy Chittleborough is now retired, but Joe Morgan carries on cutting Sixties-inspired suits with large lapels, nipped waists and strong shoulders.
Dege & SkinnerA highly traditional Savile Row tailor with a rich military history, Dege cuts a strong-shouldered, long jacket and usually braced trousers. Still family owned, they have benefited in recent years from turbulence at similar houses such as Huntsman.
Cutter Nick De’Ath made me a superb tobacco-linen suit. And although the higher rise of the trousers didn’t quite work out the first time, he was accommodating on several other points.
Edward SextonEdward’s style is similar to that of Joe Morgan, but his finishing and stylistic details are less about things like lap seams and Milanese buttonholes, and more about colour and cloth.
Edward made me a fantastic double-breasted flannel suit, and at time of writing is making a long grey overcoat. Both pretty dramatic.
Gieves & Hawkes – Davide Taub Davide Taub, of whose style I am a big fan, is now the head cutter at Gieves. He trained at Maurice Sedwell among other places and he tends towards a strong shoulder and silhouette.
He is also very innovative, and has made several very original and stylish pieces for me, including my pea coat, leather jacket and gilet.
Graham BrowneA traditional English cut but with willingness to experiment. Currently making some of the best non-Italian soft jackets I’ve seen in terms of cut.
Although not the same standard of make as Savile Row, Graham Browne is by far the best value tailoring in London. I have had many things made over the years, I have all my alterations done there, and my first bespoke suit in London, which was made by them, is still one of my favourites.
(Choppin & Lodge was set up by the same team as Graham Browne, and shares resources.)
Hemingway TailorsRun by Toby Luper, who is based in Leeds but visits clients in London, and has the suits made at Cheshire Bespoke. The style is English but with a particularly large and extended shoulder.
Toby is not a cutter, and normally I would avoid being fitted by anyone who is not a cutter. But the trousers Toby cut me are probably the best fitting I have.
Henry PooleThe other one of the big three names on the Row, it is more flexible in house style than either A&S or Huntsman. The basic cut is strong and English, however, with slightly less padding and structure in the shoulder and chest than Huntsman.
I had a double-breasted Prince of Wales suit made, which has been quietly superb. It gets more compliments that almost anything else, yet it is conservative in everything by the cloth. Cut by Craig Featherstone.
HuntsmanThe opposite of Anderson & Sheppard in style, with strong, padded shoulders and a closely cut chest. Relatively slim through the waist and with little skirt, it is known for a one-button fastening. Most other English tailors cut this traditional style, with slight variations.
I liked the hunting suit I had made by David Ward. We had some problems with the bi-swing back, as the vents stayed open and elastic was added inside to fix that.
John Kent and Terry HasteJohn and Terry work with Stephen Lachter (shirt cutter) on Sackville Street. Terry was head cutter at Huntsman and his style is very similar; John tends to cut a slightly smaller back and slimmer leg – sharper, in that way.
John made my pattern and I have two suits from it, the second cut and fitted by Terry – hence the difference in styles noted above. The make was superb and I would say they are the best value on the Row.
Kathryn Sargent Kathryn used to be the head tailor at Gieves & Hawkes. Her style is, like Poole and others, a traditional English military cut.
My travel blazer and trousers were cut by Kathryn Sargent while she was at Gieves. She has since set up her own premises, and made a beautiful tweed jacket for my wife there, which reflected her particular skill in women’s styles.
Manning & ManningBryan Manning is an old tailor who used to work at Kilgour and has operated on his own for several years, meeting clients at Holland & Sherry on Savile Row or in workrooms on Tottenham Court Road.
He is very good value for money, but the high-twist summer suit he made me had some issues, particularly around the finishing. The fit, however, was very good, and the suit was hand-padded and hand-finished throughout.
PA CroweA city tailor, PA Crowe have a small shop near to St Paul’s cathedral. I worked close-by for several years and eventually had a pair of brown flannel trousers made.
The results were not great, with the persistent issue I have of hollow fronts and bulging rear causing the trousers to lose their sharpness all too easily. Not bad if they were Graham Browne prices, but unfortunately they are rather more expensive.
Richard AndersonRichard used to be the head cutter at Huntsman and his cut is similar, though with less padding in the shoulder.
One difference is perhaps a more adventurous style; he has recently been making some for customers in wool jersey, for example.
Richard made me a tuxedo, single breasted with a shawl-collared waistcoat. It was slim and perfectly fitting, though my favourite part was the superb trousers.
Richard JamesBen Clarke at Richard James has been growing the bespoke side of the business, which for the past few years has had its own dedicated premises on Clifford Street.
At the time of writing Ben is making a brown cashmere jacket for me, waistcoat and trousers, deviating from the normal Richard James style somewhat to make something softer and more casual. The waistcoat will be self-backed and designed to wear with denim.
Steven HitchcockSon of A&S head cutter John Hitchcock, Steven was trained there and his style is very similar. As he works in shared premises on the Row and is now independent, he is of course cheaper as well.
Steven made me a tweed jacket and moleskin trousers, and a couple of years later, a beautiful pale-grey jacket from the Lamlana bunch. If anything I found his style to be softer and drapier than his father.
Thom SweeneyA much more contemporary cut than anyone else on this list – a short jacket, narrow sleeve and fitted waist. Famous for their horseshoe waistcoats.
Thom Whiddett and Luke Sweeney are great stylists, with Thom the cutter. Their strength is style, youth and innovation. They made me a navy checked jacket and cord trousers several years ago, which fit very well (though I somewhat regretted the boldness of the windowpane check).
Timothy EverestTim is a wonderful stylist and designer. His cutter in the Elder Street bespoke operation in east London is Lloyd Forester. Lloyd’s style is traditionally English though with less structure; Tim adds a dash of innovation to the mix during the commissioning and fittings.
The suit and velvet jacket I had made were both well done. The strength is in Tim’s consultation, and the rack of unusual things that are guaranteed to be hanging around.
Whitcomb & ShaftesburyRun by two Indian brothers, Whitcomb & Shaftesbury have an extremely good value service called Classic Bespoke which is cut in London but has some of the making work done in a workshop they own and have trained themselves in India.
The result is perhaps the best place to start for any full bespoke suit. The full review of the navy worsted suit they made me can be seen here.
Italy
CaliendoA small, second-generation tailor in Naples. Elia Caliendo is the cutter and his father still does some of the tailoring work. Neapolitan style is fairly consistent, with self-lined jackets in the foreparts, very light construction, shirt shoulders and those curving pockets. The biggest difference between them is quality of finishing and fit, and Elia is superb on both. He visits London every month or so.
I have had a summer jacket a Permanent Style tweed jacket and several other things made by Elia. He is in London often, which is a big advantage. My favourite Neapolitan.
DalcuoreSartoria Dalcuore are a slightly larger tailor in Naples, with a workshop supplying ready to wear garments to places like Brio in Beijing, alongside traditional bespoke.
They made me a brown Crispaire suit for the summer which was beautifully fitted and in a classic Neapolitan style – only lacking a couple of details like fit around the trousers that perhaps could have been corrected at a second fitting.
Ferdinando CaraceniFerdinando Caraceni, one of four outfits doing bespoke in Milan and Rome under the Caraceni name, made me a cashmere herringbone jacket. A beautifully made piece, it was noticeably more formal than other Italians I had tried – more an unstructured alternative to a Row suit than a rival to Neapolitan casualness.
Nicoletta Caraceni is the charismatic head of the house, Ferdinando’s daughter.
KitonAlthough not bespoke, the made-to-measure suit that Kiton made me through Harrod’s had all the handmade details that result from Kiton’s approach – an individual pattern and hand-sewn finishing such as buttonholes (but no hand-padding in chest etc).
The result was OK, a grey summer suit that suffered slightly in the fit for being measured, fitted and then fitted again by three different people, none of whom were trained bespoke cutters.
Liverano & LiveranoThe best-known tailor in Florence, Antonio Liverano cuts a short jacket and slim trousers. It is quite contemporary in that respect, and has been popular with the guys over at The Armoury in Hong Kong. Check out their Tumblr for examples of the work.
Antonio is making me a purple jacket, which is not ready yet but you can see at the basted stage here. He is expensive, but I like his sense of style (he commissioned his own doughnut-patterned scarves) and the cut works well in casual jackets.
Marco Cerrato
A Neapolitan trouser maker with a good reputation – and making trousers for some of the other Neapolitan tailoring houses – Marco Cerrato has started to expand more abroad with his brother in London handling a lot of commissions.
Marco is making me a pair of heavy cotton twill trousers, which will be published and written about soon.
Musella Dembech Gianfrancesco Musella was one of the young tailors I brought to our Symposium event in Florence this summer, and no one better deserved the invitation. He is both highly skilled and genuinely innovative, bringing different flavours to the Milanese style.
Gianfrancesco has just started the process of making me a navy cotton suit, in the same lightweight cotton as my brown Caliendo. He is also in the process of moving to a bigger location, reflecting the growth in his small outfit.
Pirozzi
Nunzio Pirozzi runs a highly regarded tailoring house in Naples, and works with E Marinella in London to both service his existing clients here and offer a service to Marinella’s customers.
Nunzio is in the process of making me a tan corduroy suit – very similar to an Anderson & Sheppard DB that I love, but single breasted and in the casual Neapolitan style.
RubinacciThe biggest name in Naples. Regular Neapolitan style, though with a big collection of vintage cloth on offer, a penchant for silk-scarf linings and Luca’s other inventions. Stores in Milan and London and regular visits to the US and elsewhere.
Rubinacci’s strength is its styling. The cashmere Donegal jacket I had made from an old 70s cloth was good, with a great make and ok fit. But it was Luca’s recommendation of the bronze-green lining that made it for me.
Salvatore AmbrosiSalvatore Ambrosi is easily the best known trouser maker in the world, travelling to dozens of cities around the world and working with shops like Armoury, Brio and Brycelands.
Salva makes to a very high level, better than most Neapolitans, with lovely hand detailing. He also has considerably style, which helps rather with commissions. My experience was quite inconsistent though, with a few mistakes along the way.
SolitoOne of the biggest names in Neapolitan tailoring. Gennaro Solito is a great cutter; he speaks no English but his son, Luigi, does. Their style is typical Neapolitan though they do a large number of regular (not shirt) shoulders too. Beautiful overcoats.
Luigi has made me a few jackets since he started visiting London with Neapolitan shirtmaker Luca Avitabile, including the first – a lightweight green sports jacket. They have since built up a big business and started travelling to New York as well.
VergalloA local tailor from the town of Varese, north of Milan, Vergallo has become a bigger name in tailoring since cutter Gianni Cleopazzo began travelling to London. A north Italian style, so softer than English but sharper than the Neapolitans.
Vergallo has made me a navy cashmere suit andhoundstooth jacket. Good make and fit, with an openness to innovation. Perhaps the best value Italian tailor coming to London.
France
CifonelliThe biggest of the Parisian tailors, the Cifonelli cut is characterised by a light construction but a strength of shape achieved by a roped shoulder and slim waist. Stunning finishing on the buttonholes, trousers and linings.
Cifonelli is my top recommendation for a business suit, given the shape. But then Lorenzo is also great on innovation in cloth and design, as previous posts on them will illustrate. Travels to London increasingly regularly too.
Camps de LucaCamps de Luca are a small but no less fine Parisian tailor, and made me a beautiful grey two-piece suit with their characteristic closed notch on the lapel and small Milanese buttonhole.
Slightly square of shoulder, with a fantastically made trouser and exquisite detailing, they rival Cifonelli in most departments. Although they can seem more classic than Cifonelli, they do also make suede and leather pieces, and some unusual jackets for hot weather.
Spain
Calvo de MoraThe best of the three Spanish tailors I tried, Calvo de Mora made a closely fitted grey jacket, a self-backed grey donegal waistcoat, and green cotton trousers. The jacket was quite close through the skirt and soft in the shoulder, although not as casual as a Neapolitan make.
Unfortunately Calvo don’t travel to London or anywhere else regularly. They are the most expensive of the Spanish tailors here, perhaps inevitably given the quality.
LangaSastreria Langa are best know for their shirtmaker, Mariano, who has a long and storied list of customers. The shirt he made was well-fitted, if quite formal and stiff in the collar, with a good deal of handwork.
The linen suit cut by Joaquin was a lovely piece, largely because of the colour of the Scabal linen. The jacket itself could have been made better and there was an issue with the shoulders – partly due to trying to create a Neapolitan look – which they are working to correct.
ReilloReillo is a small tailor – one cutter, Jose Maria, with some help with making at the back of the shop. Like Langa he is good value for money, although the green cotton suit that we made together suffered rather in the shoulders.
Partly, as with Langa, this was due to trying to create a very soft, Neapolitan-style jacket, which is not the natural style the Spanish tailors were trained on.
Hong Kong
E.Italian
Back in the days when I travelled to Hong Kong a lot, and had less money, I tried three or four different cheap HK tailors. Edward Tam at E.Italian was the best, at around £300 for a suit.
The cut can be a little boxy but if you’re insistent, it can be a great choice. Cut by hand and made by hand, with a fitting or two required. Not to anywhere near the same standard as bespoke elsewhere (try WW Chan or similar for that) but not a rip-off 24-hour tailor either.
Dear Simon,
I am a relative newcomer to your blog and have found it to be a veritable treasure trove of interesting and useful pointers on personal tailoring and gentlemen’s dress. However, I notice that many of your articles on ‘English’ tailoring tend to be overwhelmingly focused on London and its immediate confines. This is understandable, given that the metropolis is obviously your place of residence and home to the some of the country’s best tailoring houses, but perhaps of limited use to those of us who don’t live in the South East and would like some help and advice on locating a tailor closer to home.
I am getting married in the summer and would love to know if you could recommend any tailors in the North of England who offer a bespoke service starting in the £1,000 – £2,000 range? I haven’t the time, or the inclination to make the 2-3 six hour roundtrips that would be required to visit a tailoring establishment in London and the cost of rail fares would increase the overall price of the suit by 10 – 15%. I’m therefore looking for someone good, and reasonably priced, who is located anywhere between Sheffield and Edinburgh.
After trawling through numerous online forums I have come up with the names of a countless businesses offering what appears to be factory-made M2M, and of the provincial outlets of Savile Row-trained tailors like Thomas Mahon and Steed, but there appears to be very little in between. Can you help, or am I simply searching for a mythical Northern tailor who doesn’t actually exist?
Regards
Matt
There may be some, but they will be very rare and I’m afraid I’m never going to be a good source, living in London.
Matt,
I sympathise with your problem being a resident in the Midlands. I recently found a small tailoring business locally only to find he is retiring soon and has stopped making garments and has not been able to find anyone to carry on the trade. I do know of Timothy James Henderson who has a premises in Baslow, Derbyshire who purportedly has a fully bespoke service you may be interested in. He has a website and does answer e-mails. He also. Travels around the Midlands, I believe for appointments. Best wishes for the wedding.
I have used Mullen & Mullen of 16, High Petergate in York close to the Minster .
They are worth a try and are in your price range and are online also .
They can also travel to your residence or place of work if required.
Desmond Merrion is tops and in Rawdon
Dear Simon,
i need to buy a couple of new suits
i have never spent a lot on suits (maybe £500ish; some fella who came to the office), but am willing to stretch a bit now
i am 53, and don’t wear a suit often. Need one for work once a week. Board meetings etc. Single breasted. Classic. Medium weight cloth.
i am tall (6’4″) and a few kg the wrong side of where i should be. My intention (has always been) is to lose a few kilos. I would want to be able to accommodate that, should i be successful!
Price? I was originally thinking less than £1k, but can now (having read some of your pages) see myself stretching to a bit more.
I live in Notting Hill and work near St Paul’s, so Savile Row or somewhere close is ideal.
Separately, I see you are having/had a cashmere blazer made. I used to have one, bought off the peg at Harrods, but it was nicked at a restaurant. I would love to replace it. What should i do?
Found your site by accident. Love it!
Any advice, much appreciated,
Yours,
Bob
ps is there such a thing as a “special offer” with any of your recommended tailors?
Hi Bob,
I congratulate you on starting down this path. It will take a while, but be very rewarding.
I would advise a fair amount of reading of the site over the next couple of weeks, and then coming back with some more specific questions. There are lots of elements here, from the suit you want to the tailor you choose. Both could take dozens of posts.
Let me know
Simon
Hello, Re. Northern Tailors. I thought I would mention Michelsberg Tailors in Leeds. whilst I don’t have direct experience I understand that his work is of a good quality and reasonable price.
Stephen.
Simon,
Did you ever do a full article on the Richard Anderson dinner suit? It would be interesting to read, but couldn’t find it.
Did you go for vents on the DJ or ventless?
Thanks,
S
Hey,
I didn’t, it was in The Rake but not on PS. I’ll do something later in the year perhaps.
Vents for me. I don’t like the tubular nature of a ventless jacket.
Simon
Morning, I’ve had a good read through your blog and found it to be very interesting and a glimpse into the world of suits. I am getting married in June and me and my best man are looking for a taylored suit that will look great for the wedding but would also be usable afterwards. I particularly like the blue suit you have had made. Here comes the problem we probably have up too £550 to spend. I’ve got an appointment with cad and the Andy, are there any otheres that you could recommend I don’t mind where in London as I would rather get a better suit than pay for the name when I can’t afford that. I would be greatfull if you could offer me any advice. Thanks you.
Youre looking at made to measure for that price. Go see as many makers as you can, and look up on here points about assessing MTM…
Dear Simon,
I have decided to take the plunge and have my first bespoke suit made. My means do not allow me to go to Savile Row, but I think Graham Browne prices could work for me. I am looking to pay less than 2000 pounds for a genuinely bespoke 2 pieces suit.
I have heard of other tailors in the same price range and I wondered if you had had a chance of experimenting with any of them since you wrote this post? I am thinking of people like Chris Kerr, Sims & MacDonald, etc.
Also you wrote that you had all your alterations made at Graham Browne – is that still the case, and would they take on alterations on OTR suits from someone who is not a bespoke client? I have a couple OTR suits that I would like to improve where possible, so as to bridge a bit of the gap between the upcoming garments and the older ones.
Thank you in advance.
F.
I’d certainty go to them for bespoke at that level – next up is more like 3000. And yes, it’s fine to do alterations there
Hi, Whitcomb & Shaftesbury is a great one to have in mind. Simon wrote a great article on their Classic Bespoke offering. You would be looking at around ~£1.7k. Best value for money in my opinion for a first bespoke suit (even more so than Gordon Brown as the make and fit is much more comparable to Savile Row tailors).
Cheers,
M
Hi Simon,
Will you ever do a review of Chris Kerr? He was highly recommended to me by Ten Group Concierge and I have found him to be a truly excellent tailor, from the service to perfectly fitting suits and jackets. He also stocks a great range of fabrics, including the Caccioppoli bunches you’ve mentioned are quite hard to come by in London.
I have looked at some of the other tailors you have featured, but I have been so impressed with his skills, that for pretty much this whole year I have been going back to him for all my tailoring needs. I don’t feel like I need to go anywhere else.
He doesn’t blow his own trumpet, so it would be great to get your take on his work.
Best regards,
Shan
As I’m not in a position to go down the bespoke road just yet, I have in the past purchased very well made second hand garments with an eye towards having them altered. The challenge however has always been in finding a skilful tailor willing to carry out the necessary work. Now that I live in London (East End) it seems the only options available are Saville Row or Dry Cleaner Seamstress. Is there anyone in between and if so who??
Try Graham Browne…
Dear Simon,
I follow you blog with interest and was wondering if you could advise on my attire and a tailor.
I was looking to have two pice suit done for my summer wedding. This will be a relaxed affairs and no matching groomsmen attire.
I am contemplating a made to measure service by Gieves & Hawke or alternatively Graham Brown. Some of the other tailors you recommend such Kent & Haste come in a little to pricey.
Do you have any thoughts on the matter? Whom would you choose in London for getting a great suit with some consideration of value for money?
With regards to cloths I was thinking of a mid blue, Scabal 280 gr. Any thoughts on this?
Your suggestions would be highly appreciated.
Kind regards
Samuel
Hi
It’s worth reading my posts separately on GB and Gieves – I can only summarise here. All provide value for money to a certain extent though, it’s just a question of what you want. Also read the Whitcomb & Shaftesbury posts to show how limited the choices are.
On cloth, again read previous posts on wedding outfits. Mid- to pale grey is often nicest.
Hi Simon,
I noticed that your review of Liverano is not up-to-date as it still talks about you waiting for your purple jacket. Can you please provide an update after having experienced their jacket and worn it for a period of time?
Thanks!
Hey. Yes, sure thing. Apologies for the delay on that
In respect of Graham Browne how has you overcoat held up over the years? It is the next thing i am interested in having made. I have an idea in my head how I want it to look which would not fit with some of the more traditional houses, (nothing outlandish or dandy, just a double breasted overcoat in length with great coat style lapels) so being GB are up for a bit of experimentation I thought they might be the ones to try. Thom Sweeney made my suit recently and I have been very happy with them but I would like to experiment with other tailors.
It has held up very well – and the fit was great. If I could do it again, I would flatten the lapels like my Cifonelli one, so they could sit under my chin when the collar is folded up.
GB made me an overcoat too, it’s the best GB piece they’ve made for me. However, in general their work was very inconsistent (trousers varied a lot in size!) and I found them not always honest to me as a customer. E.g. they cut a pair of patterned trousers the wrong way in order to save cloth. I did not realize until another tailor told me the stripes and checks were askew. I haven’t used them since and if I were you would certainly stick to Sweeney!
Hi Simon,
This is a very helpful list. Looks like Dege & Skinner is missing on the UK side? The tobacco linen suit you commissioned from them looked very nice.
And hopefully Maurice Sedwell will make it to the list at some point! No secret that I am a big fan of Andrew Ramroop (head cutter / owner) and it is probably one of the most interesting British tailors out there which have not been covered yet on Permanentstyle.
Cheers,
M
Good spot! I’ll add it now
If I may suggest, Simon, what would be helpful for readers is also to have price points for the various tailors.
Cheers,
Moez
Thanks. They do change though – a lot since 2012
Certainly although I still think it would be very useful to point out the latest update you have on price and precise the date (probably your last commission) as it gives a sense to people directionally. This list is exhaustive but the price point is rather wide between the various tailors. We all agree that value is not equivalent to price but price still is a big factor of the purchasing decision…
Cheers,
M
Hi Simon,
even though this does not relate to suits. When can we expect the final Report on your Charvet Shirt?
Best,
Josua
As above – coming soon, apologies for the delay
Very useful summary of the main players in the bespoke business, thanks. I will certainly refer to this post in future.
By the way, when are we going to hear about the Charvet bespoke shirt? Or did I miss that post?
You didn’t, and apologies there’s a stack of things I need to shoot
That’s just what I’m looking for in regard to RTW !
Bravo, Prof. Crompton!
I don’t have the money I used to for tailored clothes so was looking for a good reliable (not necessarily flash) affordable tailor that I could start to use, heard about quite a well established tailor called C Antoniou on Gray’s Inn Road (been there for several decades). I called and made a few enquiries and was told he makes a fully canvassed, bespoke suit for £1,200! It sounded a little too good to be true, have you heard anything good or bad about this place Simon (or anyone else reading the blog)? Cheers.
Nothing I’m afraid, sorry
After beginning reading this blog a few years ago (I have learned a ton, thank you Simon) I took many suits, trousers, jackets and an overcoat for alteration to Mr. Antoniou. His alteration work is super, he is very experienced and delivers just what I want – he altered a new OTR jacket recently. He gets five stars on that front from me. It is evident from his shop that he is making bespoke regularly, but I have not yet tried something – I have followed Simon’s guidance and been using graham brown and Sartoria Vergallo to date. However, I think in due course I will try Mr. A. with something. Hope that helps.
I had my first two suits made by Mr Antoniou in 1992 and I still wear them today (December 2016)! I have been going back to him ever since and he has made for me by now some 16 suits and 3 or 4 tweed jackets. The quality of his work is overall very good, fully bespoke and lots of handwork. His work can sometimes be a bit inconsistent though and he basically only cuts a traditional English suit. So if you are looking for something fancy or extraordinary you better go somewhere else.
Hey thanks Glanton! Very good of you to reply to my message. I’ve been going round in circles not being able to find decent RTW and not having the money to spend that I used to on bespoke. I really need some trousers made as I’m making do with only a couple of pairs which fit now! Does he cut a nice trouser? I like a traditional trouser with a high waist, pleats (which are surprisingly difficult to get right!) and usually wear braces. On your saying he only does a traditional English cut that’s fine in my book as I like traditional English tailoring and actually don’t want or need anything fancy! (no Peter Stringfellow leapord suits for me 🙂 ) Cheers.
Hi Simon,
The idea of taking stock of your experience with bespoke tailors is an excellent one! Somehow if I were living in London and decided to go down the route of bespoke tailoring, I think, I would start with Graham Browne as a good way to sound the waters in this area before moving upwards. Even though at first sight, I feel Richard Anderson or even Thom Sweeney closer enough to my taste in matter of style.
Aside note: personally, I find your navy checked jacket made by Thom Sweeney amazingly well cut! And it’s not that bold as you seem to believe. Just the right amount of boldness really bearable even by a French!
John
Very helpful list — PS at its best. Many thanks
Hi Simon,
I am no expert but is there not one major flaw in your approach here: namely, you should judge a tailor/house only after the second suit, not the first suit. Unless glaring errors are made, it takes time for a customer and tailor to develop.
True, and with many I have had second pieces made too. But I do feel you can still tell much from a first suit
Hi Simon,
Any experience with Davies & Son on the Row?
No, afraid not
Hmmm, No man ( or woman) should have this much clothes or use this much tailors.
Still, it is interesting i suppose.
Simon,I know this is perhaps the wrong thread to comment in but have you ever wanted to try out Cesare Attolini?I know the cover RTW but would be interesting to hear what are your thoughts on them (especially since youve tried Kiton)
I haven’t particularly wanted to, as I know what they do pretty well, but I do plan to see them next time I’m in Naples to pick up any interesting points or differences with other Neapolitan RTW and MTM
Hi Simon,
I have some questions regarding Marco Cerrato’s work:
In terms of quality, details and finishing how do his trousers differ or compare to that of Solito, Ambrosi?
Hoe much does he roughly charge for a pair of trousers?
And do you know when he will be visiting London again for his trunk show(s)?
Thanks.
F.
Hi. I have a post coming up that will run through all of this. He will be here on October 5th
Cheers
Hey, do you think the post will come out before the 5th of October? It would be helpful to have an idea about price / contact details before he comes to London to potentially book an appointment.
Cheers
M
Yep, absolutely
A piece on regional tailoring has been mooted a number of times in the past – any plans to commission suits in outside London if that post ever gets off the ground?
To be honest, I don’t think so no. The problem is that those local tailors are really only going to be of relevance to people that are more local – which is a very small part of the readership. People may travel to London, but are unlikely to do so to those other places. And most of the tailors I’ve covered travel around the world as well, which again the local tailors don’t.
I’m happy to try and put together a list based on anecdotal evidence, but trying a sufficient number of them is unlikely.
I’d challenge the assumption that regionally-based tailors are only likely to be of interest to comparatively small people living in their immediate vicinity.
If you take the two tailors that I’ve most experience with – Tom Mahon and Des Merrion – both seem to spend considerable amounts of time either in London or abroad (principally in the US) and so would presumably be potential options for people living beyond the north of England.
You may argue that regional tailors do not have the same commercial cache as ones operating on the Row, but then neither does Graham Browne or the other off-Row London tailors you’ve covered.
Thanks Matt. I agree, though I think Tom and Des are exceptions in that sense.
Hi Simon,
Did you ever end up adding additional buttons to the Henry Poole DB?
Nope… it rather feels like part of its character now. Interesting how that happens.
Hi Simon:
From what I’ve read and from your posts I gather that Cifonelli and Camps de Luca are probably the one of the best, if not the best, of bespoke tailors. You mentioned that CdL is more square in the shoulders and have a very distinct lapel shape; whereas Cifonelli has its famed Cifonelli shoulder. But for someone who wants to splurge on one perfect suit, are there any pros and cons of each house and how do you go about picking between the two?
That would take a separate post probably Vincent. But I would recommend going to see both of them and seeing the styles first hand before making that choice, if you can
Simon: I am wondering how you would compare the style of Solito versus the other Neapolitans you have used?
Dear Simon,
I’m planning on having an Olive green SB summer suit made up in Naples. Do you think this would be better in linen or cotton? Any recommendations for a fabric? I understand that selecting the correct type and weight of fabric is key… Thanks in advance
I would go for cotton or linen if its a whole suit. And I’d go for linen if you want something more sartorial, elegant, and cotton for a little more comfortable and contemporary
Thanks, Simon, it will be a whole suit. And I think you’ve tempted me with cotton! Can you suggest a cotton that might work?
Have a look at the Caliendo cotton suit I wrote about recently. Cloth from Holland & Sherry
I am wondering if the reason why A&S is a cheaper option on the Row is because it has slighly less handwork when compared with Huntsman or continental option suvh as Liverano?p
Not these days, no, unless you count the extra density of pad stitches in the chest as less handwork.
Can you elaborate on your dismissive comment regarding Attolini? Do you really not rate them?
It was not meant to be dismissive, and I certainly do rate them in some ways. They do a huge amount of handwork in their suits and I like the Neapolitan style. I generally also prefer their style to Kiton, for example.
Hi Simon
I understand that you live in London and hence most of your tailor reviews are for that area. I am due to get married next year and I am looking for a MTM suit with a budget of £1,200 for a three pice suit. Can you recommend any tailors in the North of England. Have you heard of any of the following; Carl Stewart Huddersfield, Rhodes-Wood tailors, Steed tailors, Richard Smith Manchester?
If you are able to offer some assistance that would be much appreciated.
Thanks
J
I’m afraid I don’t do much on MTM Jav, so I wont be able to help, sorry. As a side point, it is very hard to provide reviews of MTM services as they change frequently, and are often inconsistent in quality (eg which new salesperson takes your measurements). Bespoke tailors are much easier
No problem. Thanks for your reply.
I reckon the £1,200 budget for a 3pc would not be enough for bespoke, would you agree?
No, there are certainly options. Search on this site for Graham Browne, which would certainly be within budget. And for a little bit more (but fantastic value), Whitcomb & Shaftesbury.
If it’s any help, Jav, I know people who have MTM from Steed and Des Merrion who are more than happy with the outcome, and they fit well within your price range.
Hi Nick
Looking at Des he offers a semi bespoke option woth a full floating canvas and a new pattern rather than existing pattern like typical m2m from about £1,400. Would this effectively be a bespoke suit then?
Thanks
J
Jav,
I can highly recommend Des. The main differences between his bespoke and semi bespoke option are the amount of hand-sewing that goes into each suit, the construction of the canvass and possibly the number of fittings.
I live in the north and mucked around for years trying trailing back and forth to London for fittings etc., so I’m glad I found out about him.
The only note of caution I would sound is that, as a virtual one man band, he is pretty busy and you may be waiting 4 -5 months from order to collection of the finished suit, so make sure you get in early.
Hi Jav
I know Des does not outsource any of his work, so I imagine you would get your own pattern rather than an adjusted block but a lot less handwork than his bespoke, hence the lower price.
Simon: now that you have had a a few garments made from Solito, I am curious to know how you would rank home versus the other Neapolitans?
I would largely recommend the other Neapolitans first, but if budget is a big concern then Solito are cheaper generally
Thank you, Simon. I want to commission some more Neapolitian garments but I guess I am struggling with whether they are for “jacketings only” rather than suitings. I wonder if the Neapolitan cut is simply too informal for a serious business environment. Or maybe, provided the suit jacket length covers the seat, suitings could work. Thoughts?
I think they can certainly work for suits, yes. Obviously it depends on your office, but in a conservative fabric it can be a really nice, subtle style point
Ahh so happy to have read this Simon, I’m planning a trip to Italy next year. Will definitely visit the tailors you’ve mentioned above 🙂
Regards,
William Jenkins | https://mrjenks.com |
among all the suits you have, who is the maker of your favourite suit?
Impossible to answer I’m afraid…. Have a look at the ‘how many tailors should you have’ post. That has some more details on which I love for which different reasons
Dear Simon,
Are you aware of/can you recommend any good value bespoke tailors in the Netherlands? Thank you for your response and great website!
Best regards
Marc
No, sorry Marc
Hi Simon,
Thanks for this list. I recently visited A&S to commission a suit. I have traditionally used Italian tailors but am keen to find a row tailor as well since moving to London.
The cutter I met was young (perhaps 6 years experience). How would you recommend one navigates the bigger houses with multiple cutters? My preference would be to go with the head or most experienced cutter but would appreciate your thoughts on how much of a difference it makes and how to approach this with the house.
Also, would Steven Hitchcock be a good alternative to A&S in terms of make and fit? I like the though of going to independent tailors but don’t want to compromise quality despite cost difference.
Thanks!
I wouldn’t worry much about seniority at a big house like a and s. Everything will be overseen and managed by the head cutter anyway. Steven would be a good alternative yes, no real difference in quality
Dear Simon
I wanted to know your thoughts on the drape cut for a heavy set body shape. I am 5’10, deep chested and very thick in the thigh. The drape cut appeals to my eye but I wondered if the filling of the chest area would be unflattering on someone who maybe needs the opposite. I have used Timothy Everest bespoke in the past and have dabbled with various MtM offerings since but I’ve never been totally happy, jackets sitting away from the chest being a common unflattering problem. In your opinion would a sharper house style work better for me from say Kent&Haste.
Any suggestions much appreciated
Lloyd
It depends what you mean by work better, really. A drape cut will emphasise the chest more, and its soft shoulder will make that slightly more rounded.
I wouldn’t discount it on that basis, and it’s worth going to A&S and trying one if you can to see the effect. Perhaps by comparing that to the Everest you already have will give you a good idea.
Certainly MTM for your figure sounds tricky.
Hey Simon,
How would you rate the make of Solito & Calends etc to Thom Sweeney?
The reason I ask is that TS also do a neapolitan shoulder if desired and they’re based in the UK, and there isn’t much information with regards to the make of Thom Sweeney in comparison to other houses.
The make of Caliendo is certainly on a par. However, while Thom Sweeney will do a Neapolitan shoulder, the style is still different in other ways – line of cut and canvas etc
The tailors names which you have given in this blog are the famous and the best tailor! I was not knowing about this much tailors but after reading this blog i come to know about tailors and information about the tailors. Thank You!
Dear Simon,
I am looking at the work of Neapolitan tailors and noticed that in a previous thread you mentioned having tried Panico, and said it was excellent, but then didn’t elaborate on your experience, nor include him in this post. Could you please share your thoughts on his work and how you think he relates to his fellow Neapolitan tailors? This would be very helpful!
I don’t remember saying that Luis. I actually just started a suit with Panico, but I can’t say much about it yet
Thank you very much for your reply Simon, and I look forward to read your thoughts about your upcoming Panico suit!
(Btw, not that it is any important, but the comment I referred to was a reply dated 02/05/2013, found in the “Solito Jacket” post thread: https://www.permanentstyle.com/2013/05/solito-jacket.html )
All the best and please keep up the great work!
Thanks!
Hi Simon,
Have you or are you planning to have anything made by Henry Rose?
I understand he is old school, having worked with the likes of Doug Hayward and Edward Sexton.
Best
Joel
No, sorry
Simon,
Interesting that Germany plays no role on this list and hardly any on PS. Is it a sartorial desert? If so, I wonder why. You’d think such a major economic power would have some kind of a market for high-end menswear…
Yes, good point. There are some tailors, but not many. In general, outside the UK most countries tend to have more surviving tailors and general handcrafts in less developed economies, eg the south of Italy. Italy also has the biggest menswear industry of course, which helps.
I have a few friends in Germany that know the local business though, so perhaps I can write something in general about the country at some point.
Marcus’ comment about Germany (to which I would add Swiss-Germany) is not clear because he doesn’t treat the obvuous fact that Germans and Swiss have different taste for clothes than British and perhaps Italians do.
Dear Simon,
Do you know tailors in Freiburg i. Br., Germany or in Basel or Bern?
I don’t know any who were trained in London.
No, I know very few in the whole of Germany, that’s why it would be interesting to find out.
Dear Simon,
I saw the interview of bespoke tailor Eva Brautigam (her surname means bridegroom in German) in a copy of the street magazine Surprise left on the train and contacted her. We met in Basel and she agreed to sew buttonholes on my N&L RTL jacket Thomas Bauer in Eton couldn’t get cut and sewn for me. Eva confirmed she learned her English bespoke from a retired English tailor in Zuerich. Eva also teaches tailoring at the Basel city trade school. Unfortunately for me Eva only takes orders for bespoke now.
I can see how uneven development preserved these crafts in S. Italy. Yet they survived advanced capitalism in London, Paris and N. Italy, and you’ve written about their growth in Japan & East Asia. So the relationship seems complex…
Germany definitely used to have a tradition of mens’ bespoke tailors – Herrenschneider. And Berlin was once a serious contender. I bet there’s a fascinating story in how history decimated the Herrenschneider.
A quick web search shows there are a few senior names – Arnulf in Berlin/Potsdam, Radermacher in Düsseldorf, Dietl in Munich – as well as old houses that closed, and some new kids on the block. No idea how they compare to the English, Italians or French in terms of style or quality.
Hi Simon,
before I add to the above, let me thank you for taking the time to provide all the insight you do – it’s a pleasure to read (and learn from)!
As for Germany, the lack of high-end tailoring is down to a couple of things, I think – most being cultural (I will have to resort to some stereotypes here).
1 – Germans are a nation of savers, so spending 4k+ on a single item of clothing would seem outrageous to most (in spite of bespoke’s better long-term value)
2 – We’re talking about a very sober society that has lost all pomp and circumstance. Things that feel/look expensive tend to be frowned upon (cars are an obvious exception).
3 – Most aristocrats have disappeared from the public eye, meaning a class naturally drawn to commissioning (and championing) bespoke no longer sets the kind of public example the Tatler crowd do in the UK.
4 – Outside of sport, post-war Germany does not really do patriotism (reasons are obvious…) and while German brands will happily promote their German reliability (etc.) abroad (“Made in Germany”), they don’t tend to enjoy some kind special status at home (although, in recent times, people are beginning to go local – but that’s not a German trend per se).
Marcus has a point, though: surely there must be some top-class bespoke in this big/rich a country? Given Germany’s federal structure (which is the exact opposite of the London-heavy UK), they will be scattered all over the place, of course (which doesn’t help).
You mention your friends in Germany. Have you taken this up with any of them yet? Would love to hear their thoughts (and yours!) before weighing my options – which I wouldn’t have to do if Edward Sexton were to drop by for a couple of weeks at a time…
Thanks!
Hi Joel,
I have no personal experience of Henry Rose, but an extremely well dressed friend of mine went to him quite a few years ago and was pleased with the result.
Stephen
Simon, have you (or anyone else reading) tried the Tailor Made London shop in Shoreditch for a bespoke suite?
They use a 3D scanner to take the measurements in 10 seconds (more precisely than a tailor they say) but all the rest of the service (consultation, fabrics available, special requests, alterations, etc) should be the same as offered in a Savile Row shop.
A 3 pieces suit with the best fabric comes at £1,300 but you can have a 2 pieces at £800. And I am talking about fully bespoke suit not made to measure.
I saw a lot of comments from readers who cannot afford a £3,000+ suit but still looking for a bespoke experience.
Given your wide experience on bespoke services it would be very interesting if you could try this service and tell us what do you think about the process and more interestingly about the final product.
Congratulation for this website.
Hi Marco,
Sure, I’m happy to look into it, but I’d be very sceptical about the service. For a start, it’s simply not possible to make a bespoke suit for £800 in London. The work required to hand make the suit is going to cost pretty much all of that. And that’s without cloth, any profit or any other costs.
Plus, the skill of the tailor is often the fitting and adjusting of a pattern, not the initial measurements. If you don’t have an experienced bespoke cutter at that stage, it’s not going to be fitted as well.
This is clearly a MTM service, and probably not made to a very high level at that price.
An update to this for 2018 would be highly appreciated!!
Thanks, I’ll try to do that
What house cut do you think flatters the athletic build best? I.E., Big chest and shoulders with a large drop in the waist. Would Cifonelli’s slim waist, light construction and roped shoulders flatter this (my) frame?
It depends what you want JJ – do you want to minimise that athletic look?
Thanks Simon. I want to look powerful and have a commanding presence, without being boastful. It is a tall order!
I see. It sounds like a balance you have to consider for yourself then – do you want to exaggerate the look you already have, or reduce it? Which would give that commanding presence without being over the top?
The more you want to exaggerate that, the more you’ll want a structured look, or indeed Cifonelli given the strong shoulder. The more you want to reduce it, the more you’ll want a softer look
Hi there.
Does someone have experience with Fielding & Nicholson in Shoreditch?
Thanks for your comments
Christian
Hi Simon, you mention: “Cifonelli is my top recommendation for a business suit, given the shape. ”
Could you please expand on why? I’m considering Cifonelli or an A&S for business and would appreciate your insight.
I think to be fair, they both have attractions. Cifonelli has a much closer body and sleeve, but more roping in the shoulder. A&S has more room and strength in the chest and sleeve, but more relaxed shoulder. Have a look at posts on both of them across the site to get an idea of the difference
Thanks Simon. I recently got to try on jackets from both houses to get an idea; and have been perusing this incredible site at length.
My initial impression (for myself working in a conservative industry) was that the Cifonelli is very bold… A match for the boardroom or giving TV interviews. Whereas a classic English suit fits the discretion and uniformity perhaps required in a workplace still coming suited and booted.
As you suggested I’ll continue reading more to better understand. Cheers.
I think that’s a good call Paolo, yes, though a conservative Cifonelli like my navy suit could still be business appropriate i think.
Simon, what tailor would you recommend to make a loden style overcoat?
I don’t know anyone that’s made one I’ve seen I’m afraid
Hi Simon,
Do you know good places to buy a mix and match suit?
I don’t fit regular suits and don’t have time for MTM.
Thanks
Joel
No sorry Joel – I’d suggest that you take the time to do MTM. It’s worth it for something that fits you
Hi Simon,
Curious to why you do not have not done a suit yet with Cesare Attolini?
Would love to hear your thoughts.
Best Regards,
They’re made to measure and we largely do bespoke, but it is something I’ve planned to do
Correct me if I am wrong, but I am quite sure Attolini offers full Bespoke…
Unless it’s changed recently, no, they offer a very high level of made to measure. There isn’t the same pattern development as bespoke and there isn’t the fully hand-padded chest and lapel.
Hi Simon,
Thank you for all the work you put into your blog – it’s both interesting and hugely helpful.
Have you had any experience with Henry Herbert? I see they’re tagged in this article but I can’t find any review. I’m looking for a bespoke, blue, linen suit. I like the cut of theirs and it’s at the more reasonable end of the bespoke price range.
Any other suggestions would be gratefully received – I see Graham Browne and Whitcomb & Shaftesbury are your recommendations for the more modestly priced bespoke suit.
Yours,
R
Hi – yes, I used Henry Herbert years ago. The experience wasn’t great, and it was made to measure, not bespoke to compare to any of those makers you mention. But that doesn’t mean they haven’t changed in the meantime though.
Just seen how you’ve updated and consolidated almost all the tailors with whom you’ve dealt into this one article. Good stuff and a great resource. Suggest it may now belong in your Guides section.
Hi Simon,
I thought the question can be better put in the comments section to this blog post.
I’ve tried some of the London tailors on your blog’s recommendation – Graham Browne, Whitcomb and Shaftesbury and Manning and Manning. Out of them I found Whitcomb and Shaftesbury the most satisfying and had a couple of suits and a coat made by them. However, I’m starting to think about commissioning a bit more expensive suit and I was wondering whom would you recommend as a step up from Whitcomb and Shaftesbury? Would the next step be Savile Row tailors?
Many thanks in advance!
Best,
Andrey
Hi Andrey,
If you like that style, then yes the next step would be Savile Row or off-Row tailors. Perhaps look at Steven Hitchcock, who will be similar in style, or a bit above him in price, Anderson & Sheppard
Many thanks Simon. I thought about A&S, but will also look at Steven Hitchcock.
Dear Simon,
I’m based in New York and I’ve been considering some bespoke makers. We have storefronts for Thom Sweeney, Huntsman, and Richard James, all of whom you’ve covered here. Additionally I had the pleasure of meeting and getting measured by Terry Haste and Stephen Lachter on their most recent visit. I’m looking for a Huntsman like style of suit; strong shoulders, single button and I was wondering how those tailoring houses compare to one another in your experience.
Hi Benjamin,
If that’s what you’re looking for, I’d certainly recommend Terry. He and John Kent made me a couple of very nice suits in that mould, and were always both very good value (in money and entertainment). If you have any more specific questions don’t hesitate to ask.
Hi Simon,
I finally decided to get my first bespoke suit. Following your recommended, I would like to go for a 2 piece navy suit but not sure which tailor I should go to. I like a bit of structure and since I’m 35 it will be nice to get something that doesn’t make me look older if you know what I mean. Ideally, I would like to spend a maximum of £3/ 3.5k so I was thinking about the following tailors: 1. Whitcomb & Shaftesbury 2. Thom Sweeney 3. Henry Poole (not sure if it is within my price range) and 4. Huntsman (bespoke 100 is within my price range but it might be too structured for me). Would love to get your advice and thank you very much for this wonderful website!
They’re quite different styles Ian, though all English. What do you like or dislike about each of them?
Thanks for the prompt reply Simon.
1. Whitcomb & Shaftesbury – Good price and according to your review very good product 2. Thom Sweeney – I heard very good things about Eithan Sweet, younger cut? and relatively good price 3. Henry Poole – classic, solid savile row suit (there is something about having a savile row suit I guess) 4. Huntsman (bespoke 100) – I do like their cut but dont want my suit to be too distinct.
Not sure if it makes sense butI find it hard to decide.
Thanks Ian. I meant specifically how the styles vary though. Whitcomb is more of a soft drape cut, Poole classic sharp Row and Huntsman more built-up. Sweeney is generally shorter and more contemporary.
You need to decide which of those you prefer before looking at anything else
Simon – how would you compare the drape cut of Whitcomb to that of Anderson & Sheppard?
Less drape, slightly less stylised. Eg more closed quarters, less extended shoulder – but very elegant
Thanks Simon. I think that I need to visit their shops in order to get better idea on what I actually want (in terms of style). Hopefully, they have a jacket that I can try on to see if the style suits my needs. Obviously, it will be useful to have a wardrobe which contains different styles but as I’m just moving away from RTW (and have a limited budget) it will take some years.
Yes, worth a visit if you can. Even just seeing the styles would be useful.