Sartoria Pasinato cavalry-twill suit: Review

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This suit from Vicenza-based Sartoria Pasinato has turned out very smartly, with a clean fit and very sharp line.

Part of this is a result of the cloth, which is a cavalry twill from Vitale Barberis Canonico (584, 440g).

Twills like this (covert is very similar) are woven so densely that they drape better than anything else. And yet their colours, and that pronounced twill, also give them a slightly casual touch.

It’s interesting to compare this to the Sartoria Vergallo suit I had made two years ago, which was darker but perhaps - given its green cast and muted colour - equally smart. That too was from VBC.

However, the lion's share of the credit must of course go to Massimo Pasinato.

I covered Massimo’s background and his slightly unusual use of technology in my initial post here, when I visited him in Vicenza. And the first fitting was covered in a more personal, narrative style.

Since then we’ve had one more fitting - in London - after which I was sent the suit. The fit is very good, but particularly with two fittings on a first-time customer.

In that piece on the first fitting, I commented that the jacket looked rather short and boxy, and we lengthened it - so it was just hitting the second joint of my thumb.

The effect was significant, with the jacket now looking much leaner and in proportion. If I could I might lengthen it a touch more, but not much - perhaps 1cm.

I also asked for a more fitted waist, and that too has made a difference, though here too it could be taken a little further. Fortunately that’s something that it is easy to change - unlike length.

I think Massimo has a tendency to shorter jackets because of a need to cater to younger clients, and a broader range more generally, in a small town like Vicenza. Input and suggestions from those prefer a more classic look is therefore very helpful.

Hopefully as he begins to travel more this will only increase.

Massimo likes his finishing, and the suit has pick stitching half a centimetre from almost every seam and edge. (The distance is important - the closer to the edge, the less obvious it is.)

This amount of decorative handwork will be too much for some people, and on a second suit I might have it in fewer places.

But having said that, it is much more most noticeable on a light fabric. On anything dark or indeed with more texture (like flannel or cashmere) it would be barely visible.

The focus on finishing extends to fine buttonholes and a Milanese buttonhole on the lapel. The lining inside is also top-stitched nicely (see close-ups at the bottom of the post).

I think the selection of dark-brown horn buttons works well, given I think I will wear this largely with mid- or dark-brown leather shoes.

It doesn’t necessarily come across well in the photos, but something about the muted colour of the cloth makes it feel better suited to these (for me) than tan shoes.

Having said that, a dark-brown button with some lighter bits might have been more versatile, and still smart enough for dark shoes as well.

The ones here, by the way, are my bronze-coloured Top Drawer monks from Edward Green - the Oundle model on the old 888 last.

Elsewhere I’m wearing a white poplin shirt from Luca Avitabile, with a navy club-stripe tie from Drake’s.

Again the colour of the suit - pale but formal - makes it most suited to white shirts.

The tie, though, could be more colourful and summery, and that would make lighter-coloured shoes more suitable too.

The handkerchief, which is mostly cream, lime-green and black, is from Rubinacci.

The socks are light brown with a large geometric pattern (from Bresciani) and the cream panama hat is from Anderson & Sheppard.

I generally prefer browner panama hats, or at the least with brown bands, but this starker colour combination suits the formality of the outfit.

The photos, other than the close-ups below, were taken as part of a profile on me and three suits (Panico, Ciardi and Pasinato) in an upcoming edition of Japanese magazine Men’s Precious.

Thank you Yoshimi for the piece, and Kaomiyama-san for their use.

Pasinato bespoke suits start from from €2200 (€1800 without cloth), with made to measure from €900. If Massimo starts travelling to London, however, that might be slightly higher to account for the larger costs.

More details on Massimo’s work and his different bespoke and made-to-measure offerings can be found here.

Photography: Above, Jamie Ferguson; below, Permanent Style.

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William M

Would you have patch pockets with a cavalry twill again?

I prefer this to your Panico suit myself and would argue that the coat length is about right now.

Anonymous

Simon

Lovely suit and cloth. However, for me, the Vergallo suit is nicer in terms of fit and colour. Do you have a preference between the two?

Anonymous

I struggle to see the reason for making a suit out of trousering.

Burt

It’s hard wearing, it tailors like a dream, it breathes well and from 14-16 oz onwards it might survive its wearer. If you choose a lovely mottled grey or charcoal, nobody will notice the double twill structure. Also, the elastic structure makes it feel pleasant to the skin.

Kenny

It’s lightweight, 440g, for cavalry twill and the colour is fine for a suit. I have a 3 piece suit in a lightweight keeper’s tweed in a light olive for spring and autumn wear. I have heavier cavalry twill trousers, generally worn with barathea and serge blazers, for cold winters.

Beement

Hi Simon. Does the suit tend to stain more, considering the colour?

Fred

Simon,

Another handsome suit. I checked your cloth style guide but could not find cavalry-twill. I know the material and my question is, what is the ‘right’ occasion for a cavalry-twill in a suit? Cool days in the country? I am struggling to see a broad(er) use. When and Where do you think you will wear it?

Burt

If you choose a navy or grey/charcoal cavalry twill, apart from the most formal occasions it will work fine in most environments. A big advantage is that cavalry twill wears cooler than its weight suggests. E.g. a pair of 20 oz in a light colour can still be worn in summer in say 22-25 degrees Celsius.

rups

why does it wear cooler? Is it because it has no nap whatsoever?

David

Great suit, super neat and sharp. More balanced than the Panico’s one I think. Regarding the weight, would you say a 530/560 gr cavalry twill would be too heavy and warm for a suit?

Jeff from Chicago

What a lovely suit. I enjoyed reading about it and it looks great on you.

Anonymous

Why would you want to wear a more colourful and summery tie with a suit so heavy you would never actually wear it in summer?

I like the overall silhouette, but think jetted rather than patch pockets would have looked better, and I think having a lapped seam on a suit is just plain wrong. It should stay on a traditional bleu de travail.

Anonymous

The close up of your shoulder seam shows it is lapped. Sorry.

Dan Ippolito

Beautiful suit; the picture of you coming down the stairs is sheer perfection! My only quibble with the entire outfit is that I fail to see how the pocket square complements it in any way….

Kashif

Simon, another great post. I read the previous post (The First Fitting Process) again after reading this one and had a question on the buttoning point of the jacket. You wrote that the buttoning point for a newcomer to bespoke is around the natural waist and one could experiment within 1 cm above / below that point. Do you find yourself adjusting that within the range depending on the cut of the jacket or do you usually have it at the same point?

Dan Ippolito

A small question: would you say that someone who was not as tall and slim as you are should wear shorter turnups or no turnups at all?

Alexandre

Veramente bello, e proprio ben fatto !

Wool or cotton CT ?

Gonzague

Nice suit although the finishings are too obvious from me.
Just checking: this twill is cotton not wool isn’t it?
White shirt: blue not ok? Does the shirt colour have to be lighter than the suit?

Phil

Another beautiful bespoke suit. How many is that now? There must be a book in the works.

David

If you ever find you have too many, I might be able to help… Just saying

Anonymous

Simon

Slightly related topic. Have you come across Bedford cord? If so, where would you put in on the formality scale? It’s part of the HS Dakota bunch along with cavalry twill.

Anonymous

Why would you go with normal cord or cavalry twill over Bedford cord? Is it just a personal preference?

GONZAGUE

Could jeans be made with woollen cavalry twill?

Fred

Hello Simon,
Travellers Club? A good setting. And raising the bar for the members. I hope I see you there.

Rob D

The Travellers Club looks very tatty these days. I thought the portrait of General Roberts (I think it is he) implied the Cavalry and Guards?

Don Ferrando

What a wonderful suit.
Thank you for explaining the different materials, styles and finishing of the suits.
Since you actually wear them you undoubtful have the best expertise and credibility in your reviews.

Chancellor

I like how sharp this suit is.

One question: does the suit have a neapolitan-style shoulder? From the overhead shot, it looks like there’s plenty of shirring in the sleeve-attachment. But in the long shots, I get the sense there’s a fair bit of wadding in the sleeve head, perhaps more in the front than the top. But those are long shots and what I’m seeing may be distortions from movement.

Anonymous

Interesting addition. It looks to be beautifully finished with a more useable hue than the Vergallo. Great close-ups of the detail work – it would be good to see more of these in future articles. The trousers look particularly sharp with a beautiful drape – how do they fit? One query Simon, it looks to be a little full in the waist (you mention it was formerly a little boxy) – if so how is the fit through the back now? Overall I like the clean look and the cloth has a sleek ‘go anywhere’ finish. I hope it will give good service and perhaps become a favourite. Massimo’s prices also seem fair, especially given the level of finishing.

Tom

Excellent suit Simon.Nice to see variation on a suit theme….patch pockets and Neapolitan shoulder.
As you say you have countless suits,shoes etc but that’s understandable given the nature of this blog.So what follows is not a criticism of you!
For my part I have always resisted the temptation to constantly commission more and more suits,shoes,vintage watches,purchase ostentatious cars…the list goes on and on…because I think it’s just not very stylish. Other people would just think I was showing-off …flaunting wealth in the face of my fellow man and woman.Not at all cool.Be interesting to hear what you and others think.

Ian

I take it that you enjoy the word in print more than a regular Vlog say on YouTube about menswear?

Stephen Pini

Simon,

A side topic but related to the images, are your socks over the calf and where do you purchase them from?

Thanks,

Stephen

Stephen Pini

Thanks Simon. When you say Bresciani, do you mean directly or via a retailer such as mes chaussettes rouges?

Peter

Dormeuil featured a cloth of the month recently that they describe as Whipcord but that is about 13-14 ounces . I had considered making a suit for my own use but till seeing this I have been reluctant. I’m not a fan of so much detail but overall I think the wall suit is beautiful.

ANM

Simon….As usual a wonderful story that leads to a desire for more detail..

I looked up the definition of “cavalry twill” and it stated that the fabric could be either cotton or wool…unless I skipped over it, I did not catch what you suit is made of…

On the jacket length issue, and the mention of your thumb’s joint as being a key marker..

What are the rules?
Do they always apply?
Which hand/side? – virtually everyone has arms of differing lengths.

I may have to throw everything out and start again…or at least spend a lot of money with my tailor to rectify things..

Walter Sickinger

Cavalry twill has always been one of my favourite cloths and this is a beautiful suit. The drape of the jacket is elegant and the line of the trousers elegant. My only criticism would be what appears to be a “spalla camici” shoulder which I believe is totally out of keeping with the nature of the cloth. A slightly roped smooth shoulder would be much more in keeping with the rest of the suit. The suit reminds me very much of one in olive cavalry twill I had made back in the 60’s.

Anonymous

Tom raises the issue of superfluous commissions I agree but totally understand the thesis for PS. As such I’d love to read an article on the basis of ‘a slimmed down PS wardrobe’ (seen as a companion piece for the suit series?) with 6-8 of the suits that you wear frequently or are most applicable for types of wear (business, formal, warm weather etc.).

Hugh

Yes, I think that would be a popular post and useful for many – for me certainly. Your ability and willingness to try so many is inspiring but is not within reach for everyone; and sometimes the number of variations we’ve seen through you can blend together.

I at least would love a capsule suit collection for two reasons 1) your choices, and 2) your reasons for why this suit vs that similar suit.

David

Nice suit. The turn-ups seem quite wide, though granted it is down to personal style. Generally, what is the status of turn-ups on suits these days? I rarely see them now, really only on suits worn by older men or stylish younger folk.

Paul

Hi Simon – nicely done. Regarding the trousers, are they flat front? Could not tell from the photos. Am I detecting a trend in the width of the cuff?

Harry of Monmouth

Good observation by Peter, this colth is not a cavalry twill, but a whip cord ( it may be in defence a cavarly twill in Italy, but not a British Cavalary twill)
On a personal note, worn with a white shirt, is a fashion faux par ! Needs to be cream, ercu ? Useful suit as could be worn as single jacket, with flannels/denim/ fine weight corduroy.

Bradley

Simon
You are so right – cavalry twill in that weight drapes so beautifully as trousers and, never crease. I have a pair and they are my favourite trousers. Based on this success i had a lighter twill pair made once and it was a disaster – they just crease!
The interesting thing here is the use of the twill as a suit which is something i would never have considered.
For those interested in other cloth for suits, Die Workwear blog today has a wonderful article on the various options for more casual suiting material and, is worth reading.
Great suit and colour by the way
Bradley

Stephen Pini

Simon,

I am curious about the lining. I assume it is fully lined, just from looking at the pictures? Any particular reason for that ? I made the assumption is was seasonal related or perhaps a recommendation from Pasinato.

Overall I am very impressed with the suit to the point I have sent an email to Massimo to discuss a commission.

The fabric is a great choice. The texture looks excellent and the tone is perfect for a light coloured suit; as you say grey with a hint of brown, which must make it very versatile. Additionally the weight gives it great shape. As I do more research I am starting to realise that fabrics with a weight of 12oz + just look better.

I personally would have never selected this fabric from a swatch but seeing it in suit form just goes to show that you need to have a little imagination. Well done.

Stephen

Nick

Simon, Stephen touches on an interesting topic. I am thinking of getting a tweed from an Italian maker, which I want to be quite casual (ie worn with jeans or chinos, maybe even paired with trainers) do you think I should go lined or unlined? I imagine unlined can have a more casual look, but I terms of practicality I feel a tweed may not be smooth enough to glide over a shirt etc and also I imagine that a lined jacket lasts longer. Would be interesting to hear your comments. Nick

Len

Simon,

Do you know when Ciardi are next in London? I’m messaged them twice but they don’t reply…

Many thankd

Len

Ok, fair enough, thanks for following up.

Plenty of other good tailors around if they’re not interested!

Stephen Pini

Simon,

Have you considered organising a trunk show with Massimo in London?

I really like this style of suit – some structure but softer than the English cut. A generous lapel and some room. Can’t stand a “fitted” (read that as tight) suit.

Stephen

Nick

Dear Simon,

I really like this suit and the way the jacket turned out. The price of sartoria pasinato is quite similar to saman amel, how do they compare?

Yours,
Nick

Anonymous

Why do you think Saman Amel is better on style? Thanks.

Anonymous

I agree with everything you’ve said here, but this suit by Pasinato doesn’t strike me as unstylish. Quite the contrary, it looks like a very balanced, contemporary style.

Stephen Pini

Simon,

Would you consider this suit example typical of the Pasinato house style? I only ask as northern Italians typically do not use a spalla camicia,

How does this commission differ to Massimo’s “normal” style?

Stephen

Massimo Pasinato

For those who are interested I am in London next weekend.
Info:
https://www.permanentstyle.com/event/sartoria-pasinato-london/
Reservation:
http://www.pasinato.it/trunk-show_HK/

CMW

Hi Simon. Would the house style of Sartoria Pasinato be good/soft enough for a casual suit like corduroy? Aside from the house style they can also do a more Neapolitan style?

Anonymous

Hi Simon,

Would be great if you could do a piece comparing the regional differences of Italian cuts e.g. Florence, Milan, Naples etc. I know you have covered these items separately but it often hard to notice differences from pictures if they are not specifically pointed out.

In this context how would you describe Pasinato’s style? North Italian? Is it similar to Milan or Florence?

Anonymous

Simon,
How would you compare Vergallo vs Pasinato? Or in other words – which one would be safer choise for a first bespoke to a muscular built, 6feet person?

Thanks

Massimo Pasinato

During these months I was in London very frequently. At least every 3 months. I’m in London this weekend too.

Scott

Very impressive suit Massimo! What fabric mills do you primarily work with?

Bryan

This is a good looking suit. But I think it is a covert cloth rather than a cavalry twill.

I think the 584 cloths from Vitale Barberis Canonico are covert cloth.

For example:

https://vitalebarberiscanonico.com/fabrics/584-101-76/

https://www.drapersitaly.com/en/fabrics/fabrics-for-suits/7/wool-covert-code-no.-6734l

Roger A

Beautiful suit and interesting color. What color would you describe this? Hard to tell from the monitor, but it looks like a cross between olive, grey, and tan. Or perhaps a cross between a grey and a brown?

Anonymous

The color and texture of the fabric and the cut of the suit are all great. Thanks for posting this. 2200 Euros starting seems extremely reasonable for full bespoke. I’ve come to expect it at no less than $4000. I’m still new to the bespoke world and still am trying to get a grasp on what goes into the pricing. Do Italian makers tend to charge less in nominal terms than British ones? If you have general guidance on this, or can link an article where you’ve discussed this if you have, I’d be grateful. Thanks!

Chancellor

Assume there’s a typo and the tailors with lower rents charge less.

Scott

Simon, this suit looks really good on you. You mentioned that the shoulder is extended. Is it just a slight extension I hope? I trust that the length of the jacket and width of the lapel can be changed based on customer request?

Nick

Hi,

Do you know if Massimo is still travelling to London? I have been trying to get in touch but with little success…

Massimo Pasinato

Hello, I will be in London on February 17th. Regards

Gab

Hi Simon,
Do you think CT would work for an odd jacket?
Thanks

Mansy

Hi Simon,

I have a lovely pair of navy cavalry twill trousers made out of a heavyweight Fox cloth – which I think is identical to your ecru pair in all manners except colour.

Could I ask what you think about commissioning a jacket in that particular cloth in order to have a suit please? And do you think it would be suitable for a professional environment (albeit one where most people don’t where suits anyway unless they’re meetings clients).

Thanks as always! I love this suit and the series of the photos. The socks are awesome!

Cheers!

Rupesh

Hi Simon,

I seem to be impressed with your commission with Pasinato as from your review it seems the finished product as exceeded your expectations. I am contemplating on having a bespoke suit or blazer with either Pasinato or Solito. On your opinion, which one would you opt for as a first time and in terms of quality and finishing. In addition, which one provides a wider fabric selection.

Kind regards

Rupesh

Rups

Simon I was thinking of having a cavalry twill suit made in navy perhaps in the h&s Dakota bunch. Do you think this would wear very formal (as it holds a crease) or more casual (as it has those ridges in the cloth)? Would it break up into separates namely would I be able to wear the jacket with grey cavalry twill trousers I already have too? This second question I ask as I do need a suit (although rarely) but like wearing separate jackets and trousers rest of the time. If not cavalry twill then does another cloth work as a suit and seperates better? Appreciate your expert opinion on the matter Simon)

Anonymous

Hi Simon, which VBC book is this cavalry twill from?

Massimo Pasinato

You should ask directly to Drapers which is VBC retail seller.
My tailorshop is also a VBC selected retail sellers.

Lindsay Eric McKee

I had at least one Savile Row tailor I emailed recently suggesting the Dakota fabrics like Whipcords would make good and very durable jacket & trouser separates and there are some beautiful colours in that bunch. I would be looking at the 12 & 13ozs in greys for the trousers and the blues for a jacket as an alternative to a first bespoke suit in single breasted and being versatile at the same time which I may consider.

Lindsay Eric McKee

Sorry Simon. I should have clarified who the tailor was.
It was from Andrew Ramroop of Maurice Sedwell who recommended H&S Dakota whipcord due to being a tightly woven pure wool with superb wearing qualities.
Probably Cavalry Twill would be similar but I could imagine these two types of fabric being quite warm in the Summer months.
Thanks
Lindsay

Lindsay Eric McKee

Actually I an considering separates as an alternative to a suit in dark blue/navy for a jacket and grey for the trousers in hard wearing & durable cloth in 12-13oz cloth which allows for versatility. particularly if I choose a single brested jacket which could be teamed up with knitwear from say the A & S habidashery.
Following the very interesting suggestion from Sedwells, I looked at my own Dakota Bunch which I actually have and chose nos. 9518509 with 9518505 and also 9518508 with 9518506 in 13oz whipcord.
There it is…. I’ll gladly share these suggestions!!
Lindsay