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This is a fully updated version of our post from January on the bespoke tailors in and around New York.

The contributions of readers were extremely helpful, particularly those that had used tailors personally, as this is an area with a lot of misinformation. The comments to the post have also been updated and corrected.

Hopefully this is a useful model of post going forward: something that sits between a static but cohesive article and a disorganised but dynamic thread. 

A Leonard Logsdail jacket

The United States has very few domestic bespoke tailors.

There is an older generation - mostly Italian - that is now largely either retired or has passed away; and there are some young tailors trying to revive the craft - but that often lack experience.

Part cause and part effect of this is the number of tailors from England and Italy that travel around the country offering traditional bespoke.

New York in particular has more visiting tailors than any other city in the world: every major name visits at least twice a year.

Most American customers of bespoke therefore use these European tailors given their experience and reputation. When you’re spending thousands of dollars on a suit, and you have access to the best in the world, why would you use anyone else?

However, there are some advantages to using a local tailor. If you miss an appointment, you don’t have to wait for the next visit; if you have a tailoring crisis, someone is on hand to help.

So while I’d always recommend those European tailors to readers first, this post is a summary of the bespoke tailors around New York.

 

Suits from Joseph Genuardi

Now, one of the interesting things about New York is that models of bespoke vary more than in countries where there is a deeper tradition of the craft.

Partly due to demands for speed, or for value, different brands skip parts of the bespoke process.

The definition I use for bespoke is that it must involve a personal paper pattern for the customer, revised extensively over multiple fittings; and that functional aspects of construction, such as stitching the chest and the lapel, must be done by hand.

This two-part definition is what is offered by every European tailor visiting the US. So when a reader asks me who in New York offers 'real' bespoke, this is what they mean.

Unfortunately, many US tailors call what they do ‘bespoke’ when it is purely made to measure. There is no pattern development, no functional handwork. This is the primary cause of confusion.

But there are also tailors and brands that do bespoke pattern development, but not the handwork; or pad the chest by hand, but not the lapel. These are greyer areas that don’t arise much in Europe.

Those brands are included in the list below, but lower down, and it is made clear what aspects they do and don’t do.

Their demotion is not to say that they don’t make great suits, or that there aren’t good reasons (such as relative value) for what they offer.

But the first question has to be whether they offer the same thing as the visiting tailors. Then later, separately and hopefully in detail, we can review their offering.

 

Manolo Costa jackets

Normally I would only recommend a tailor once I had tried them myself, by the way, which is why such coverage takes a while.

But as I only visit New York once a year on average, this isn’t really possible.

So instead the information here comes from meeting the tailors in person and seeing their work, from confirming details of what they do by email/phone, and from the comments and experiences of readers.

Although this is an updated post incorporating the 100+ comments, I’m sure there will still be tailors missed out, so do please continue to mention those - if you feel you can offer the same information on process and product.

 

Leonard Logsdail

1 Leonard Logsdail

Len Logsdail is probably the best-known bespoke tailor in New York. An Englishman who moved to the US, he has a lovely workshop on East 53 St and recently added his son, Leonard Jr, to the team.

Len has become famous through his film work - for the likes of Robert De Niro, Samuel L Jackson and Leonardo DiCaprio - but still makes proper bespoke (often called benchmade in the US) as well as offering a cheaper suit closer to made to measure.

The cut is drapey with a slightly extended shoulder, but closer fitting than Anderson & Sheppard, for example. For those that want an established tailor in New York, and like the style, he will probably be the first choice.

www.leonardlogsdail.com

 

Joseph Genuardi

2 Joseph Genuardi, Yosel Tiefenbrun

At the opposite end of the spectrum is a young tailor like Joseph Genuardi, who apprenticed under Joseph Centofanti in Ardmore, Pennsylvania, and now has his own operation in New Jersey.

Joseph was at Centofanti for five years, and then went to work at the Martin Greenfield factory in Brooklyn, expanding his knowledge into made-to-measure and becoming involved in TV work like Boardwalk Empire.

In 2016 he quit to set up his own bespoke workshop and now has three people working for him. I’ve met Joseph and seen his work, which is very good. Some of his styles aren’t for me, but the classic tailoring is great, with nice touches like scooped side adjustors on the trousers.

Also recommended by others, in this vein, is Yosel Tiefenbrun - see list at the bottom of this post and comments from readers.

genuarditailor.com  

 

Frank Shattuck (left) being interviewed by Anthony Bourdain

3 Frank Shattuck

Frank is based in Sackets Harbour, upstate New York, but comes to Manhattan to see clients. He has been a tailor since 1982, when he started with the Cesta brothers in Syracuse, but more significantly, trained under Raphael Raffealli in Manhattan - one of an older generation of New York bespoke tailors that is now largely retired.

Frank makes proper bespoke, and does all the cutting and making himself - something many of these small tailors can do, even if they stop doing so when they get bigger.

Frank’s style is English and quite structured, with a particular fondness for country and shooting garments. He also uses a lot of vintage fabrics. You can see from a film made about him by Anthony Bourdain that he is quite a character, but no less talented for it.

www.frankshattuck.com

 

4 Dunhill, Thom Sweeney, Huntsman

In recent years, a group of English tailors has set up permanent operations in New York.

Initially, some of those were just showrooms with a salesman. Huntsman, for instance, had a small place with this set up. It made things slightly easier for a client, as they could skip the visit where they picked cloth for a new commission. But it wasn’t possible to drop in any time for a bespoke fitting.

That’s now changed, with Huntsman expanding into a bigger space (above) and having a permanent cutter. And early in 2018, Thom Sweeney did the same when it opened its first RTW store in the US. In fact, Sweeney theoretically has bespoke at two locations at the moment - in the West Broadway store and in a little bespoke space uptown.

Dunhill has had a cutter on site for longer, in the Madison Avenue store, though the service has varied over the years. And like all these English tailors, even if the cutting is done on-site, the tailoring work is still sent back to the UK.

www.dunhill.com/experience/en/bespoke-made-to-measure/

www.thomsweeney.co.uk/pages/locations

www.huntsmansavilerow.com/huntsman-opens-permanent-second-home-new-york/

 

5 The older generation: Nino Corvato, Nino Caldarone, Franco Ercole

The last group is an older generation of Italian tailors in New York, many of whom are now retired or semi-retired.

Nino Caldarone (above) is the youngest of these, and still works from his home in New Jersey. Nino Corvato is now 78 and from what I have been told, is not taking on new clients. He was featured in the documentary Men of the Cloth - which is worth seeing if you have the chance.

Franco Ercole (Franco is the son and Ercole the father) have a midtown location and a space in Brooklyn where the work is done. They offer both bespoke and made to measure.

One reader says: “I would describe Frank’s work as having a soft shoulder, healthy lapels, and a slight nip to the waist. If you are a first time customer of Ercole’s it’s worth the train ride out to Brooklyn where the shop is. There is plenty of charm, vintage bolts of cloth and espresso across the street if you need a quick mend on something.”

Many of the others are now either passed on or retired. Raphael Raffaelli closed his shop 10 years ago; Vincent Nicolosi, Tom Wolfe’s tailor, has retired; and Bill Fiorvanti passed away in 2017.

www.customtailoringbynino.com

ninocorvato.wordpress.com/

www.francoercole.com

 

6 Alan Flusser, Mark Rykken (Britches Bespoke), Paolo Martorano (Paolo Style)

The next group of houses all have an intertwined history.

Perhaps most importantly for this article, this is also where we start getting into tailoring that doesn’t fit our full definition of bespoke.

Readers will be familiar with Alan Flusser (below) from his books on menswear, but he has also offered his own MTM and bespoke tailoring for a long time. Mark Rykken (above) started his career with the men’s outfitter Britches of Georgetowne, before opening the Alan Flusser outlet in Washington DC.

When Mark left, he went to run the bespoke and MTM programme at Paul Stuart. Paolo Martorano worked with him there, and when the Paul Stuart service closed recently, he set up on his own under the name Paolo Style. Mark, meanwhile, re-opened Britches with the founder Rick Hindin.

Those are the connections. The bespoke difference is that Paolo (below) has set out to make full bespoke - so full pattern development and handwork - in the same vein as the Europeans.

Britches Bespoke does the same bespoke pattern development and pads the chest by hand, but does the lapels by machine. Mark says he finds it produces a cleaner look and controls the roll better.

And finally I’m told that Alan doesn’t do either part of the jacket by hand, just the bespoke pattern development. But there is a qualification here that I’ve asked him to confirm and haven’t heard back. 

It should also be noted that none of these three are cutters, all using outworkers in and around New York.

The cut each of them does offer is quite similar, largely derived from an English drape, although Paolo (above) keeps the shoulder and body line while cutting out the drape in the chest.

www.britchesbespoke.com

alanflusser.com

www.paolostyle.com

 

Manolo Costa

Manolo Costa, Miller’s Oath, Jake Mueser

This section highlights three more style-driven brands, but which make full bespoke as at least part of their offering.

It’s important to note that all of them are similar to the Paul Stuart/Alan Flusser group above, in that they are not cutters. This is much more common in New York, largely because the customer demand is more for style and a range of making options - so there is often an MTM or custom option as well as the full bespoke.

Whether that matters to you is more personal. There will certainly be some fans of bespoke who would rather deal directly with the cutter - as they would with Len, Frank or Joseph.

The variation in making options also reflects the demands of US customers for speed of delivery. While traditional bespoke includes a fully hand-padded chest and lapel, for instance, there is definitely an argument that this work is not worth the extra time and money it requires.

So Miller’s Oath can do full bespoke handwork, but most customers opt for the machine make as it’s so much cheaper.

Kirk Miller

It’s also no coincidence that all these makers have more style than the traditional tailors. Manolo’s is perhaps more Italian and formal, and Kirk Miller’s younger and more preppy, but both have more design awareness than almost anywhere on Savile Row.

Manolo Costa and Jake Mueser do make a full bespoke, fully hand-padded product from what I’ve seen (which is images of fittings and the inside of finished garments).

However, Mueser also offers MTM, which can cause confusion as to whether the full bespoke is the real deal. And Costa does a unstructured jacket with no padding or canvas.

Again, I’m sure there will be bespoke customers who would rather have something made by a tailor that does only that. They would be best looking at the first few options or the visiting Europeans.

 

8 Others

This is a section purely for tailors that readers have suggested and recommended in the comments below. They are listed here for ease of reference.

Yosel Tiefenbrun

http://www.tiefenbrunnyc.com.

“Another young tailor worth mentioning is Yosel Tiefenbrun. He trained at the Savile Row Academy and worked for Maurice Sedwell. He is known as the “Rabbi Tailor”. His clothing and young family are chronicled on http://rabbitailor.tumblr.com His workshop is in Bushwick, Brooklyn.”

Eric Jensen

“Eric Jensen of Sartoria Jensen may be a consideration for some. I know he apprenticed for Despos here in Chicago for several years before relocating to NYC. His site is very specific that his services are full-bespoke and not MTM.”

David Reeves

“David Reeves is another who runs a bespoke tailoring who should be mentioned here. He worked for bespoke tailors in London before coming to New York and opening his own shop, now in Union Square. Like some of the others you have mentioned, he is not a cutter. His suits are in a more structured and modern style compared to the more drape-focused English-style tailors that tend to be in New York.”

Craig Robinson

“Craig Robinson in Williamsburg is a great Bespoke tailor and cutter.”

Rossi

“Rossi took my guidance very well and even my most critical “bespoke aficionados” friends in Europe appreciate his work when they see me wearing it. If you know exactly what you want and are willing to give clear guidance during the fittings, Rossi is your man in NYC. www.rossi-bespoketailor.com.

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Caio Cesar Silva

Manolo Costa?

Anonymous

Thanks

Nathan Woodhead

Dear Simon,
Have you gotten anything commissioned by him? I have.
I’ve been a client for over 4 years, and I must say I was a little skeptical at first, but was proven wrong. I now own over 20 suits by him, I live in London and every two months when I am in NY his shop uptown is definitely a stop. I had 4 fittings, beginning with a basted try-on. I’ve been lucky to keep the weight off so my size hasn’t changed much so the commissions now run much smoother. I would also like to ask you what your definition of bespoke is? I am very curious. I’ve seen my own pattern at Manolo’s atelier in Brooklyn, and I own his garments so I can confirm is Bespoke.
On a separate note, Have you gotten anything ever made in NY? Thank you for your time.

Craig

I’ve had a jacket and a pair of trousers made by Manolo Costa and they were fantastic.

The jacket was completely hand-made. I cannot recommend him highly enough.

Joel

I’ve heard good things about a guy called Bill Fioravanti.

Joel

Silly me, I actually missed that bit by skimming through. Although I’ve never had anything tailor made by him, I’ve been reading about him for 20 years as one of the finest tailors in NY. He was always referred to as the Power Suit Tailor which I’ve never really understood what Power Suit really meant.

Frank Shattuck

Joel, a power suit , or a 57th suit, is ( was ) an unapologetic suit for a powerful businessman or statesman type. It was a structured coat with a heavier shoulder pad , high vents and rope sleeves. Henry Stewart, Bill Fioravante and Tony Maurizio made power suits. If look at Lee Marvin in “Gorky Park” you will see Henry Stewart’s magnificent work. That’s a power suit.

Anonymous

Of the Row tailors, Edwin and Matthew, and Hitchcock, are regular visitors.

Anonymous

Nicholas D’eath from Dege and Skinner make trips 3-4x/year throughout the US. Work has been superb

Anonymous

Old Henry is a personal favourite, and also highly regarded by Alden.

Emile

Simon

Old Henry and Frank are one and the same, no?

Don Corleone

Does anyone take Michael Alden and his London Lounge forum seriously? His cloth club and Sicilian bespoke prices were very expensive (double, triple or more) compared to the prices charged by the main Scottish mills and other Sicilian tailors.

Yosef777

I am not familiar with his Siciian bespoke but the cloth club fabric has been fantastic imo. It is a bit expensive but you rarely see the heavy weight tweeds, cashmeres, etc. that he offers unless it is a very old vintage cloth. Fox Brothers is probably the closet in terms of their heavy weight cloths but their prices are comparable to Aldens.

Melc.

I take Michael seriously.

The LL cloth is fairly priced for what it is – it is significantly different from the normal run of the big mills : much more substantial and consequently more expensive. The aim is to make it the old fashioned way – and demand for that is niche. But it’s my kind of niche.

As to what tailors charge, there seems only a tenuous correlation between price & service across the civilised world. A skilled tailor who you trust, treats you as an individual, and who wants your business, is worth any amount of money in GBP, USD or HKD.

You pays your money and takes your choice.

Eugene

William Field II took over for his father in their Washington DC traditional bespoke tailor shop. The older Field emigrated from London where he trained, thus the name of the firm is Field English Custom Tailor. Will worked for his father and then went over to work at Gieves and Hawkes before returning to take over the family business. They’ve been in DC for over 50 years.

SFERN

Another recommendation for Will. Excellent alternative for those looking for true bespoke in the Washington, DC, area.

Tom

Will has made several sport coats and suits for me. His work is outstanding.

Bruce

Another recommendation for Will. I have suits, sport coats, and shirts made by him, and the quality is second to none.

Chancellor

Great to see some coverage of tailors in North America. Thanks for trying to put something together. Hope there’ll be more in future years covering other parts of the U.S.A.. and maybe even Canada someday.

Suggestion: Might be useful to define “proper bespoke” in the article. I assume it means a largely handmade garment, using a unique paper pattern for the individual, and multiple fittings to refine the fit until the final product. However, it is less clear if it is a hand padded chest, or if there is anything else to your definition.

Joshua Silverman

Great website and my first post. I have been going to Martin Greenfield for years including when Joseph Genuardi was there. My first experience with custom suits, but they are (to my knowledge) MTM. I wear suits daily for work and would like to ask your advice.

A few questions.

1. Would you recommend Steven Hitchcock for a novice to bespoke? I have never used a traveling tailor. How many fittings are typically involved?

2. What about the downtown NYC tailors such as Duncan Quinn and others?

3. How does Martin Greenfield compare to bespoke makers?

Marc

Run, don’t walk, from Steven Hitchcock! He’s living off his father’s reputation, however, the younger Hitchcock made me a suit that was unwearable.

Commentortater

Hitchcock does very good work, and is one of my go-to sources. Worth a look.

Mark E. Seitelman

Bill Fiorvanti closed his shop years ago, and he passed away shortly thereafter. He had a thriving shop on West 57th Street between Fifth and Sixth. He was a Roman style tailor, and he catered to a wealthy, power clientele. He would be categorized as an establishment tailor.

Raphael also closed his shop about ten years ago. I believe that he retired fully. He can be seen at the end of the video that Anthony Bourdain made regarding the purchase of a Frank Shattuck suit. See https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jks5VHQ9Q0o

By the way, Rapahel was in an old office building on Madison and 53rd which housed many tailors. The building was “redeveloped”, emptied-out, and demolished. A few tailors moved and carried-on elsewhere, such as Tom Wolfe’s tailor, Vincent Nicolosi (now retired). Other tailors simply retired.

Many of the tailors are concentrated around Madison Avenue in the 40’s and 50’s since that is the heart of the midtown business district. E.g., Nino Corvato has his small workshop on Madison, Alan Flusser is off Fifth, and Leonard Logsdail has his lovely shop and workroom off Fifth down the block from that demolished building of tailors.

I have used both Alan Flusser (my introduction to custom clothing) and his former partner, Mark Rykken. Both are fine clothiers and fine gentlemen.

It is encouraging that some younger tailors are getting into the business, i.e., Joseph Genuardi and Paolo Martorano. Joe fitted me at Greenfield. I knew Paolo for years. Both are fine gentlemen.

Another young tailor worth mentioning is Yosel Tiefenbrun. http://www.tiefenbrunnyc.com. He trained at the Savile Row Academy and worked for Maurice Sedwell. He is known as the “Rabbi Tailor”. He clothing and young family are chronicled on http://rabbitailor.tumblr.com His workshop is in Bushwick, Brooklyn.

On that note there have been tailors opening in areas outside the mainstream Madison Avenue corridor, E.g., I encountered a bespoke shirtmaker, The Hop, in NoLita on Elizabeth Street. They sell bespoke and RTW shirts and socks. http://www.thehopenyc.com. One note of caution is that some of these clothiers advertise their product as “bespoke” or “custom” when it really is MTM.

There also are scattered over New York, mostly Manhattan, some neighborhood tailor shops which mostly handle alterations but also can turn-out custom clothes. E.g., a friend uses an elderly Korean tailor, in the East 60’s to make his suits. My friend swears by him.

Nick Inkster

Rory Duffy is worth a look. Not sure where he is based now but he is a classically trained Row tailor who set up in NYC a few years back.

Anonymous

Rory is back in Ireland now

Joel

Hiya Mark,

Are you sure Bill Fioravanti has passed away?

Matt S

Bill Fioravanti’s obituary was sadly in the New York Times two years ago. He did excellent work.

Mark E. Seitelman

Bill Fioravanti died in October of 2017.

See https://www.legacy.com/obituaries/nytimes/obituary.aspx?n=william-fioravanti&pid=187018483&fhid=2058

He closed the business.

Joel

The website is still up so I thought it might have been a mistake, shame.

James C

I believe the trouble with NY bespoke really lies with the lack of understanding the local customer does possess. There is NO bespoke tailor based in NYC who if transplanted to London, would merit a mention. Some of the previous generation were great, however they have long ceased to accept new garments. Young and inexperienced tailors with less than 5-10 years experience are calling themselves masters and charging $4k and up. In London they would still be working as an apprentice, in Napoli a 24 year old working at Kiton on 25 euro an hour has more experience. Most of the MTM programs mentioned make their clothing in either MG or AJ, however their quality reviews differ greatly by some who claim to “be in the know”, which says more about the reviewer than the suit. Manolo sells suits that are 50% machine made. Lovely, but not bespoke. You can not find a picture of a customer wearing a suit from this young lad Tiefenbrun, which leads me to suggest that his reviews are formulated by friends and family. He also seems to have very little experience by his own account (under 5 years). Robinson in Brooklyn is an entry level garment devoid of any flair of craft. Len is perhaps the only individual of note, however he can only dream of producing a garment of international repute such as cifonelli/Anderson and Sheppard/London House.
Genuardi seems to sell an honest product, but again no flair or display of character.
Duncan and Reeves both ship their work off to overseas production points and specialize in fitting them locally. Not sure if that works for Simon, but it’s not much different to what Sweeney and Huntsman are doing locally. It’s a sad state of affairs here. I do believe in the years to come some of the younger tailors will develop into much greater candidates, but at this point spending 4K and up with a young local based tailor with 5-10 years experience seems a waste when you have Neapolitan heavyweights popping in every three months and seeking much less coin. My advice to my fellow New Yorkers is to find a well made custom tailor such as Michael Andrews, Reeves, Flusser, and forget about bespoke. Utilize the visiting tailors when in need of a bespoke garment. Better to have a well made custom/mtm garment than an expensive but low end bespoke one.

Scott

Very astute comments. The question of why no NYC tailors are talked about in the same terms as the English and Italian tailors is telling and should be understood. Is it just ignorance on the public’s part or a genuine difference in skill.? Your comments clearly indicate it is the latter.

Fabrizio Gatti

I second every and all James’s comments. It is simply not worth it to spend that amount of money in NYC and its sorroundings, even with the “relatively” big and famous names above mentioned.

MARK

Duncan Quinn doesn’t ship anything off to be made.. not sure where you found that information but is actually incorrect. He has one master tailor who works for him here in New York, where everything is hand done. It is actually true bespoke, and 100% made here, nothing about it is outsourced overseas.

James C

He most definitely has in the past. I believe he used Greenfield for a while. He does have an in-house tailor too.

B

James – when you say there are Italians who come into town for much less every three months, who would you recommend? What range for make?

Josua

What about Beckenstein bespoke? I havn’t tried it myself but read that Steven Tabek is one of the top bespoke tailors in NY with an impressive client list.

Anonymous

Beckenstein is certainly not bespoke. Made in China as well.

Anonymous

Who exactly is telling you who does and does not do “bespoke” in New York Simon?

Mark E. Seitelman

Thanks, Simon.

May I jump-in on Joshua’s question?

I cannot write about Mr. Hitchcock in that I never used him although he was recommended to me by a esteemed Savile Row tailor as the genuine article. I had used Davies & Son of Savile Row for a good number of suits and odd coats and trousers which I am still wearing after many years. In my experience with Davies, a suit could be delivered in three months. I used them exclusively in their visits to New York.

Davies visits four times a year. Therefore, you get measured at visit one. In a month or two, you have a basted try-on at visit two. I have never had a need for another fitting. The suit is finished and mailed to you. All told it takes about three to four months.

From my personal experience and from my readings, it seems a minimum of two visits is necessary, i.e., the initial visit and the basted try-on. If you are a difficult fit, then a third visit might be needed. But I cannot imagine going beyond three fittings. The visiting tailors are all professionals, and they know how to make a suit that fits.

If the tailor comes four times a year, there is a shorter wait. I think that most come three times a year. If you use a tailor who makes only annual visits, you will have a long wait.

As for downtown tailors, such as Duncan Quinn, I have no experience. Many of these newer tailors and clothiers have their clothing made by Martin Greenfield, Adrian Jules, and other workshops. Some state that they have their tailor or workshop off the premises. Perhaps yes, and perhaps no. Typically, no. You may get a wonderful suit from one of these establishments, but it is a rare shop indeed which makes a suit from “scratch” in a workshop in the basement.

As for Martin Greenfield, they make an excellent suit. I am a happy customer, and I recommend them. They started coming to the Mark Hotel once a week for customers do not want to travel to the Brooklyn factory. The pricing is excellent, and it is an excellent value. A suit will run about $2,000 or so depending upon the cloth. A “bespoke” product can run $4,000 +, usually $5,000 +. When I last priced Davies the price was $6,000 +.

The Greenfield suit does not have all of the handwork of a “bench made” suit from a traditional tailor of Savile Row. I would say that my Davies suits are more structured. They are built like a Rolls Royce.

A bespoke suit has its own signature, feel, and look. E.g., the all important shoulder. There are also workmanship differences. E.g., fully hand padded lapels and collars versus machine padding. There are also little details, such as finer buttons, and handmade buttonholes. Also, one make feels and looks different from another.

In my general experience, there are customers who want and are willing to pay the full bespoke price. They cannot fathom getting a garment that is not made specifically for them, and they dismiss MTM as unacceptable.. Then there are other customers who are very happy with the MTM’s and who look terrific. To each his own.

Mark E. Seitelman

Rory Duffy is no longer in New York. I believe that he returned to Ireland.

Matt S

David Reeves is another who runs a bespoke tailoring who should be mentioned here. He worked for bespoke tailors in London before coming to New York and opening his own shop, now in Union Square. Like some of the others you have mentioned, he is not a cutter. His suits are in a more structured and modern style compared to the more drape-focused English-style tailors that tend to be in New York.

Ben

Reeves doesn’t do bespoke. He may claim he does, but it is all MTM.

David Reeves

Evidence?

A cursory look at my Instagram should be evidence enough our work is not MTM.

https://www.instagram.com/davidreevesbespoke/?hl=en

@davidreevesbespoke

Anonymous

David- your IG account isn’t very good evidence at all. It is pictures of mostly finished garments. Maybe a basted fitting. I would love to see a “forward” fitting. Any MTM can do a basted fitting. Greenfield can do it as could any factory in China.

Simon: I think you get a sense of the NYC scene. Just google “NYC Bespoke” and you will see that every MTM shop in NYC claims to make unique pattern for each client. In NYC it has become industry standard to flat out lie to uninformed clients and claim its bespoke when it is certainly not. Many claim work is done in basement, but won’t show you. And so many claim to do work in NYC, but in truth they make in China at YZ and Red Collar. The lying in the major problem.

REEVES

Hello ANONYMOUS,

I think this comes down to doctrine and method and there is no cast iron way to make a bespoke suit form start to finish although many try to define what that process should be.

I personally use the Savile row associations definition of what a bespoke suit is, although I admit this is not cast iron either.

specifically on fittings, frankly after 20 years of doing this I do not need to do 5 fittings to get a suit right.

I typically do an initial consultation, basted fitting and my “forward fitting” is usually a pick up/final inspection, so three appointments.

For subsequent orders (because we have an individual client pattern that works) I will usually go straight to finish although I may choose to “hedge my bets” by not buttonholing the garment.

You may think this would not work (it may not for others) but I think the results speak for themselves.

here we have a size 52 client, this is his basted fitting on a custom made form we made to help us with fittings:

https://www.instagram.com/p/Bjp81JfnX6I/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link

Here we have his first fitting:

https://www.instagram.com/p/BmBNQYBnhCV/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link

Final fitting and pick up:

https://www.instagram.com/p/Bqc4tYfHCwm/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link

https://www.instagram.com/p/BqdaDyxHI2O/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link

And thats it, pretty simple. Richard James and Timothy Everest only typically did one fitting as well, I cannot speak for other houses but that is their method.

Is more fittings “better” or “worse?” I think fewer is better if you can hit the target although some may “like” the attention of more fittings and feeling more a part of the process.

I hope these links work, but this post I think people would find particularly interesting:

https://www.instagram.com/p/BmOJK9Tnzyz/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link

Best,

Dave.

REEVES

Well what do I know? I was only the bespoke house manager at Timothy Everest (however brief) both companies may have changed there way of doing things after 10 years as is there prerogative.

Nick

I believe David does both MTM and bespoke. He certainly does multiple fittings, including a basted fitting, and uses a unique pattern. Everything looks hand stitched to me. So not sure where the only MTM is coming from. I like his suits very much and he is also a very good guy.

REEVES

Thank you Nick,

I always say it, but If you want to know if a tailor is good, don’t ask him and certainly don’t ask another tailor, ask his clients.

For clarity I have not done any MTM for about 6 years. There are of course many great bespoke houses in England that have or do continue to do MTM and do it well.
For me it just divided my time and efforts and also created confusion, was this a Bespoke house or an MTM business? I chose the former.

Paul

What is your source for this accusation? Reeves is most certainly not MTM, although I believe he used to do a MTM line several years back in addition to bespoke but he no longer does that.

John

It really is difficult to find someone in Tennessee who can hem pants the same length. Finally found an older lady who does great work (not bespoke by any means but superb alterations). She complains and gives me a hard time but she’s fantastic so I put up with it. A letter from Ulysses S. Grant (before the civil war broke out) warned the southern “elite” that they wouldn’t be able to go to Europe and buy their fancy cloths if a war broke out. Also that the south could hardly make a yard of cloth themselves so they would be doubly screwed. Obviously not his exact words. I guess good tailors have always been hard to come by in the good old USA.

Dan G

Another NYC-based tailor I’ve heard of is Angel Bespoke. He seems to offer a more modern Italian style for those who are interested. I’ve never used him myself but have relied on traveling tailors, including Solito, Biagio Granata and B&Tailor. Have also used Ring Jacket MTM at their trunk shows through the Armoury. Have generally been happy with the product provided by all, although the customer service has varied.

Craig

Angel Bespoke provides good value with his product. You cannot beat it for the value in my opinion. Customer service is very good too.

Charles T

I had a suit made by Yosel Tiefenbrun in Buschwik. Very happy with the cut and fit and he makes everything in house .

Ben

Simon, thank you for writing about the NYC bespoke scene. I always feel that we are left out of the conversation. But I must say that the article is incomplete without mentioning Yosel Tiefenbrun. I have purchased a wonderful suit and have two sport coat commissions underway. You should visit him next time you are in NYC.

SJ

I would never doubt Mark Seitelman on NY sartorial history!

Some additions – NY has gone from the golden era with several great bespoke tailors to the handful covered above plus many that pretend to have a bespoke product candidly including Flusser, Rykken and even someone like Mark Andrews Bespoke downtown. And while these may be great people, the work product in my personal experience is quite shoddy in terms of fit in particular and their ability to make proper adjustments is also low.

With all the great bespoke visiting tailors, one doesn’t really feel not well catered for.

Of the NY crowd, Len does great work but has become quite expensive. Yosel as mentioned does great work and is much more in line with the cost of a bespoke experience with a good visiting tailor.

Of the visiting tailors, one has their pick of Savile Row, other British houses, French (Cifonelli), Neapolitan, Roman, Japanese and Korean tailors – and probably a few other nationalities I am missing.

With the visiting tailors – again from experience, would strongly suggest one stick with the more established houses such as A&S, Pooles and maybe even Cifonelli – as the independents such as Hitchcock have a more limited ability to fix issues which invariably arise.

Finally, would suggest one stick with houses that have the cutters traveling with them as opposed to the sales people – tailors like Rubinacci for example have a hell of a time in my experience making a well fitting garment as the owners for all their charm know little about how to properly fit a garment.

Cameron

Though I’ve never tried his services, Eric Jensen of Sartoria Jensen May be a consideration for some. I know he apprenticed for Despos here in Chicago for several years before relocating to NYC. His site is very specific that his services are full-bespoke and not MTM. He has been an outspoken critic of the bastardization and misuse of the term “bespoke” on the forums that I am a part so I would assume he’s the real deal. Training for with Gallo in Italy and then Despos in Chicago would lead one to believe that his style swings more to the Italian cut (though the regional proclivities are unclear).

Brian Carlisto

Hi Cameron,

I have a Sartoria Jensen suit and a sport coat and several pairs of trousers in work. Eric Jensen is a true bespoke tailor. His styling is highly influenced by the Neapolitan style, with a soft lightly structured coat and waterfall sleeves. Having worked in the luxury goods industry for more than 40 years, I feel that this is by far the finest bespoke suit I own!

Stig

Simon – I´m starting a wardrobe upgrade this year (my professional wardrobe is more than 10 years old) and thought i´d start with shoes. I would like to pick up a pair of Edward Green Chelsea´s as my first purchase, but will this look strange when worn with my RTW suits (workhorses price range GBP 500-700)

brax

If you want to add a hybrid to this list (American bespoke tailor who travels to NYC), then you can add Chris Despos to this list. Or better yet, how about a new article of non-NYC American tailors?

Guillaume

Hello Simon,
You had a visit once at the Miller’s Oath by Kirk Miller.
Do they offer bespoke ?
On their website it now looks like they lowered their price range a lot for their RTW. Still worth mentionning ?

Kevin

I’ve had numerous commissions from Kirk over the past 5 years, and have known about his shop for the past 10. He most certainly does full bespoke and is quite good at it. Just one man’s opinion here, but I think this whole article could have used some better research. As it currently stands, it seems as though there are a handful of talented bespoke tailors inadvertently left off the list, incorrectly labeled as strictly MTO, or bespoke tailors who are listed that are either no longer in business or worse yet deceased. Much like the British and Italian tailors you’ve reviewed, perhaps it makes sense to have something commissioned by the NYC tailors and then provide a proper review. This way your readers, most of whom reside in the US (and probably most of that crowd is in NYC) have a legitimate review to go by.

Andy

Hi Simon,

I noticed that Luca Avitabile no longer appears on the trunk show calendar, does he still visit London?

Cheers
Andy

David Daniels

Simon:
Yet another variation for consideration is Duca Sartoriale in midtown. Max Girombelli represents the family workshop in Italy where all the MTM is made. He is knowledgeable, generous and patient, whether you are a first time client as I was a decade ago, or a finicky regular which I have been since then. He especially takes pleasure all the little details that go into the personalization of a garment. I have had the opportunity to try bespoke in Italy, In London and in Toronto but I always find my way back to Max.
Best,
David Daniels

Adam

Miller’s Oath?

Paolo Martorano

Thank you for including me Simon. It is a great honor to be mentioned with my mentors. If anyone wants clarification- I do employ my own coat makers and trouser makers. They work off-site due to the NYC codes. However my master tailor who creates all my patterns does come in to do fittings and measure. Frankly I measure most first time customers because I have experience being able to give that information properly to the tailors. It is easier because we are talking about the cloth and style while I measure and clients want my opinion on those. We offer the option for the first fitting using muslin or scrap cloth. Also, if the client would like one coat maker to make the entire coat himself, and do all the fittings, that is also an option. I am very flexible with customers preferences and tastes. I come from four generations of tailors from Italy in my family, and their philosophy has always been that the customer’s body and style is what you are working for, not a house style. I have gained a lot of new business around the US because of that. Customers do not have to worry about convincing me to listen to them. Thank you again for including me. I do hope that the amount of tailors in NY grows again.

Bernie

Sadly, all the aforementioned bespoke tailors seem to cut more English structured. There is a serious lack of domestic bespoke tailors specializing in soft tailoring in the US. Not to mention the lack of style (boxy, sack cuts with skinny lapels are common).

A shame given the decreasing formality in the workplace.

Anonymous

It appears Sartoria Jensen cuts in soft Italian style, from what I have seen on his instagram @sartoriajensen.

Dominik

The classic sack suit is more of a RTW item. There was classic American bespoken style around back in the day, but mostly as a Department at J. Press, Chipp, Brooks Brothers… the domestic American taylors focused more on Continental styles as many of them were of Continental ancestry (e.g. Otto Perl). So it is a myth that Classic American Style is a taylor thing. Just look at the bespoke suits of Cary Grant, James Stewart, Errol Flynn etc. Not one sack suit… that does not mean that such a suit shouldn’t be made bespoken. But… I suppose some of those newer younger taylors would do it. All you have to do is ask. “House Style“ is overrated. It is the customer who pays. Best, Dominik

Nicholas

I know very little about them, but I have seen a tailor called Robinson on Instagram, based in Brooklyn – I assume they offer bespoke.

Bill

There’s a shop in Jersey City called DeCarlos Bespoke. I haven’t had anything made but I have gotten RTE garments adjusted by him. From what I can tell there is only DeCarlos and one employee. I believe he offers truly bespoke as well as “custom.” He also has a decent collection of vintage fabrics.

Johan

Yosel Tiefenbrun deserves a mention. Savile Row trained, beautiful handwork and very passionate about making great garments.

Robert Prezioso

Craig Robinson in Williamsburg is a great Bespoke tailor and cutter.

Yosef777

I have worked with Franco Ercole many times and they are excellent. (Franco is the son and Ercole is the father.) Franco told me his father considers their style as Roman. They also have a midtown location to meet with clients as well as the Brooklyn space. I prefer the BK spot as that is where Ercole works from in the last remnent of Italo Americana.
Another name to check in the we-at village is J. Mueser. Jake and Jonas offer everything from bespoke, mtm and rtw. Great guys and very accommodating! Plus Steven at Leffot is on the same block!

Yosef777

Not sure in regards to your ‘bespoke qualifications’ but think at least one or more of their in house tailors has a dominican background. Either way the work is beautiful., on par with Ercole as far as the finishing.

Mario

Eurcole’s suits are below par. Lapels are not hand padded, a lot of machine work involved, and his MTM is Red Collar.

Frank Shattuck

You are correct. He critiqued a coat of mine, I’ll critique his work. I altered one of his creations. It is all fusing and machine work. The fit is far from functional. And I’m Frank Shattuck. My work is my Thank You to my teachers. Boom.

Anonymous

What is Roman style?

anonymous

My experience with Franco in the midtown location was not good, in client service, attention to detail, and ultimate fit. Despite the unreal convenience of him being 2 blocks from my office, I couldn’t justify going back.

Mac

Hi Simon
Any chance you could give details of the Jacket, Shirt and Trousers that your’re wearing in Pitti, appearing on your instagram stories at the moment?

Mac

Hi Simon
It’s the latest one today, tweed jacket denim shirt and yellow/ tan trousers

SO

Might have missed this in comments or on website but if you could have a list of MTM in New York, it might help your fans who want an impeccable fit but cannot afford bespoke.

Marc

Len Logsdail made a suit for me that was rather unremarkable, except, for the quite remarkably high price. He also outsourced it.

Martin Kartin

I have known Joe since his days at Martin Greenfield (where they still do a great job ).
I think I was one of Joe’s first customers when he went out on his own and he will not disappoint.
He is a craftsman of the first order and does a spectacular job. The bonus is that he is young and will be around a long time.

Anthony

Have you ever thought about bringing someone on who could do reviews of american taliors to then be published on your site? If half your readers are in the states it might be something worth while.

Jonathan Waeland

Cad and the Dandy are now in New York full time and I’ve been getting all of my suits and trousers from them for the last five years. The quality and service are both first class and their cut fits me perfectly

Emanuel Lowi

Rory Duffy — who trained at Henry Poole and won the Golden Shears — is in the New York area.

Peter Frew — who is Archangelo Sartorial, I believe — is also Savile Row trained.

Kirk Miller

Hi Simon,

Wondering what the criteria you are using for this list? Only to say that there are several small shops offering hand made/bespoke clothing that you have glossed over. I agree that New York is a different market to that of say London or Naples but I would argue one has the ability to find American Made hand tailored clothing in New York.

Although pushing the various English tailors who have all recently entered the market is fine you forgot the new Richard James shop and the Italians Attolini, Kiton etc….but a deeper dive on the NY tailors would be great as you might be surprised what is on offer.

Most Sincerely,

Kirk

Manolo Costa

Hello Simon,

First, let me congratulate you on building a great sartorial platform for men to share their enthusiasm on men’s tailored clothing. I have enjoyed your coverage on Naples and London and have always remained optimistic to learn more about your perspective here in the NY market.

I will have to agree with Kirk, New York promotes ideas that are presented in this part of world by new and experienced talent with an American expression and sensibility. We also tell a story, and there is a lot more to cover. New York is a big city after all.

It is not the first time a client points out a forum where men discuss their passion, it is also not the first time where comments are quick to flow regarding our work, comments without foundation by men who have never even stepped foot in our shop. Comments by actual customers I think would make for a better piece. individuals who have actually had an experience wether good or bad.

Our doors are always open, do come in and say hello next time you are in New York please.

P.S. Let me assure you, We do full Bespoke.

Best regards,

Manolo Costa

Liam

I would love to see this resolved. I myself have come MC and been told the suits are 50/50 hand/machine by the gentleman who answered the phone. He mentioned they are made in Brooklyn, however the only three tailors of note in BK are Greenfield, Best Customs, and Ercole. Only ercole can produce a bespoke garment, and as far as I understand, he is not making the garments. There is a chance MC has found a small unknown tailor in Bk, however some transparency would go far here. MC is by far the most asteticly gifted curator of clothing in NYC. His finish looks fabulous, just unsure about the production.

Gyula Schuch

Simon, I’ve been very much enjoying your blog for quit some time. Originally from Vienna, where we are still blessed with excellent and affordable bespoke tailoring, I have lived in NYC for more than 20 years and was rather disappointed for the lack of real bespoke tailoring. Only a few years before I moved back to Europe, I got to know Rossi @ 351 1/2 East 54th Street, next to Sutton Place. Mr. Rossi, as he likes to call himself (I have a feeling he is from former Yugoslavia, but for business reasons wants to be recognized as an Italian) , he started out as an alteration tailor and did extremely well, building a huge client base which motivated him to go back to his original profession, bespoke tailoring. Even after many superbly done alteration jobs, I was initially very reluctant to commission him with some bespoke work. After two pairs of trousers and a heavy cotton suit, those were gone. Rossi pays a lot of attention to details and his craftsmanship is of highest quality (of course no glue involved and all buttonholes manually sewn) Over the years I have developed my style (structured classic jackets with very soft shoulders, close to the body and relatively slim trousers) Rossi took my guidance very well and even my most critical “bespoke aficionados” friends in Europe, appreciate his work when they see me wearing it. If you know exactly what you want and are willing to give clear guidance during the fittings, Rossi is your man in NYC. http://www.rossi-bespoketailor.com

ANM

It is amazing what has been lost in but a few decades.

I grew up in a small town in Canada, and we had at least 3 Italian tailors that I can easily think of. All had shops with bolts of fabric to the ceiling, and a table, scissors, measuring tape and chalk visible and used.

Even the average working man would have sourced at least one suit for Sunday’s and special occasions from one of these gentlemen…..

All these tailors were first generation, having emigrated sometime before the 2nd world war if I am not mistaken (I wasn’t around for the opening of their shops!)…

Either tailoring as a trade was infinitely more common in the recent past (amazing that Italy was able to stock nearly every town in the English speaking world with at least one good tailor) , or is now in such low demand as to be dying….(to say nothing of every town having a real watchmaker/repair shop, as well as custom chemist instead of a “drugstore”)….Now they are all counted in the handfuls, and only in the largest of metropolitan centres…

Sad, the rush to convenience has left us much more impoverished in the “fabric” of society…

Robert Wise

ANM
Your post stuck a chord with me living in England. Over a few pints in the Plough, we were brainstorming the tailors in Doncaster that could make a suit for a wedding or your “Sunday best”. In the 1950s there were many, now there a very few – if any. We have recently moved to Shrewsbury that has half a dozen quality menswear outfitters but only one has suitings to select your own material to have your own suit made.
As you say, we are paying a large price for convenience.

ANM

My mother practiced tailoring for the family (handed down form her mother, Depression, and all that)…a good chunk of my clothes until I was a late teenager were made by her..

I shudder to think of the number of times I probably rolled my eyes at her orders to “stand still!” as she re – pinned a pattern, or cut fabric for a shirt, or trousers….

Tell someone today that as a child most of your clothes were hand made and they would think you were rich…no, not rich – wealthy is more like it…

Frank Shattuck

that is so well said. I just saw it. One of the best cutters I have ever worked with was Frank Cesta in his little shop on Jefferson st in Syracuse New York. And there were three other Tailors in town also. They all proudly went to the Tailors Convention every year , proudly wearing their what their hands had made.

Vijay Toke

I have commissioned a suit from Huntsman out of their New York atelier. I can vouch for the extremely high quality and convenience. The suit is excellent and the cutter in residence there, Ralph Fitzgerald, is top notch. The suit is just terrific. I highly recommend the service.

Hersh

Marc, fantastic article.

However I must mention that you forgot to mention a rising name in the bespoke industry.
Yosel Tiefenbrun
I recently got a suit by him.
You should go for a visit.
Based in Brooklyn

All the best.

Colin

Can you please provide a link to pictures of yourself in the garment? All reviewers of this tailor do not include images of themselves or body shots of their garments. This is why I doubt their authenticity. His website is beautiful and his pictures look great,too. However they are all on a bust. Not many on a customer. For us discerning chaps, please provide client shots.

Fabrizio Gatti

Hi Colin. Check his Instagram page. He wears his own creations. Nod bad. Beautiful child and wife too. But again, as expensive as the top (and better) British, Italian, French, Austrian and German tailors (yes, Austrian and German)

VSF

Fabrizio, do you have specific knowledge or experience with quality Austrian or German tailors? They’re never mentioned as having similar skill and taste levels as the British and Italians as best I can tell.

Adam

What is the price range for a Yosel Tiefenbrun suit?

Richard M

No Cheo? Is he retired?

Reginald Ferguson

Good Afternoon Simon. I was curious to know where one can find your recent Robb Report article (Print? Online?).

David Lane

I have used, and continue to use both Frank P. of Ercole’s and Frank Shattuck. Both make a true bespoke garment, and each have their own unique place in terms of aesthetic.

If you are a first time customer of Ercole’s its worth the train ride out to Brooklyn where the shop is. There is plenty of charm, vintage bolts of cloth and espresso across the street if you need a quick mend on something. The Brooklyn location is a true working tailor shop, where you will see tailors making coats and trousers. Also Mr. Ercole, even though he is self described as “semi-retired”, is still in and out of the shop helping out. I would describe Frank’s work as having a soft shoulder, healthy lapels, and a slight nip to the waist. He can make Spalla Camicia shoulders as well on request. The fit and finishing is excellent and is absolutely worth a visit if you are in the NY area.

Frank Shattuck is a single man operation who makes one coat at a time, for one person, start to finish. I am fortunate enough to live a couple hour drive away from his shop in Sackets Harbor, so time between fittings can be turned over rather quickly. Obviously this would be different if he were to travel to NYC for fittings. His work is stout, rustic and unapologetic (as mentioned in the Bourdain video). Things like Flapped chest pockets, bi-swing backs and oversized patch pockets are commonplace. He can and will fit any type of build. If you can, I recommend you visit him, and get a tweed.

DL-

Scott

Is Mr. Shattuck amenable to making a softer shouldered jacket?

Anonymous

Yes. Both of my coats have a softer shoulder with just a touch roping at the sleevehead.

DL-

Scott

This is excellent news indeed. Thank you sir!

D. Bernstein

Thanks for this, it’s a great resource and all the updates in the comments are helpful – I’ve met Joseph Genuardi, he’s a really nice guy and the work is beautiful. Another great resource in NYC (but not strictly tailoring) is Carla Dawn Behrle. She specializes in leather. She does both menswear and women’s wear and I have had 3-4 outerwear pieces made by her ranging from a tailored olive green car coat to a café racer style jacket- and a couple of shirts that I can layer with. All of her menswear is completely custom. I got my first piece in 2007 or 8 and have been back regularly ever since. Her work is outstanding.

Scott

Does she work with suede?

Wade Charles Barnett

After 25 years of working mano y mano with a true ‘Master’, Joseph Centofant (see documentary, ‘Men of the Cloth’), I thought my days of ‘proper bespoke’ were behind me as many of the Masters had unfortunately passed on. Then, several years later, I received a call from Joe Genuardi, a former apprentice of Joseph Centofanti’s, who had ventured out on his own out of an old factory in Hoboken, NJ. I reluctantantly agreed to let this young Master cut a pattern for a single suit and am happy to say the ‘the proper bespoke art form ’ is alive and well! In fact ‘Joeseph Genuardi Mastor Tailor’ suits, blazers, sportcoats, trousers and shirts are now the finest in my closet.

TJ

Hi Simon,

Excited to see you’ve turned your gaze toward US-based tailoring. I can definitely echo Yosef777’s endorsement of Franco Ercole of Brooklyn: I’ve worked with them a couple times and been very impressed with their work.

You mentioned Joe Genuardi, who started with Centofanti in Ardmore. As a local of the Philadelphia area, I can attest that there is a quiet but thriving community of old-school bespoke tailors in the area. A number hail from the Abruzzo region of Italy, and their house styles tend to reflect the Caraceni-esque Abruzzese school of tailoring (i.e. strong shoulders, elongated silhouette, light canvas, etc.).

Sadly, Joe Centofanti passed away in 2011, but others soldier on. Cappelli Tailors of Strafford and D&B Tailors of Newtown Square are two notable examples.

While I’ve never bought from D&B, I’ve gotten two suits from Cappelli. John Cappelli, the owner and cutter, is an amiable character and a blast to work with. He loves talking technique and has a yen for colorful, flamboyant linings. His shop also does MTM shirts and sources custom belts, of all things, from a local artisan.

If you ever find yourself exploring the Philadelphia area, also consider looking up Perry Ercolino, a bespoke shoemaker in Doylestown. I’ve never met him, nor visited his store, but his website boasts some impressive photos of his work. He is said to have cut shoes for several US presidents.

All the best,

TJ

Alex

Ah another local Philadelphian! I actually live down the street from Capelli (I used to have my off the rack suits tailored by him before trying D&B) but Gabe at D&B is my go-to. He’s absolutely phenomenal to work with, and is as wonderful a person as he is a tailor. I don’t hesitate to recommend him (and I’m sure you’ve gotten wind of his client list, including Sinatra, of all people.) I’m actually headed to him tomorrow afternoon to discuss my wedding tuxedo!

Joel

Can anyone think of a tailor who took his life a few years ago in New York?

If I recall he was middle aged lots of tattoos, a bit of a playboy and apparently very friendly with a lot of celebrities the like of Robert DeNiro.

AMS

Might you be thinking of Michele Savoia?
https://nypost.com/2014/02/16/fashion-designer-michele-savoia-found-dead-near-yacht/

“Several pals of the flamboyant designer — whose clients included Robert De Niro, Ricky Martin, Mickey Rourke and Chris Noth — grew worried and went to his boat to look for him.”

Joel

Thanks very much

Frank Shattuck

Savioa. He fell in the river with his fur coat on. One Hell if a character and a nice guy. Worked a lot with broadway shows.

William Gambrill

I have purchased over 7 garments from Leonard Logsdail and 5 from Luigi Solito and 8 from Steven Hitchcock and a handful from Tony Martin the head cutter at Dunhill in New York and formerly of Benson and Clegg.

There are all great and pure bespoke in their own way, with their own distinctive style. Tony Martin, a fabulous tailor with an obsession with exquisite finishing, cuts more of a traditional British garment with moderate structure but with complete control and dedication to his craft. He is about 42 years old and will be only getting better.

Leonard Logsdail is equally excellent, with a distinct look and a defined shape. He favors peak lapels on most garments. His commitment to a high standard unflagging.

Steven and Luigi are covered extensively by Simon and they are great, too, and cheaper than Tony and Leonard.

If you are interested in classic American style, something your grandfather or father might have worn, go and get a made to measure suit from Jay Walter at J. Press. Jay takes the old-school, Brooks Brothers sack suit and modifies it. The natural shoulder remains and he and in darts and some gently suppression through the body. The result is a comfortable, classic, American garment that will always work well and make you nostalgic for the golden age of Brooks Brothers. Fully made to measure, nothing bespoke.

William M

I had work done by Tony Martin when he was at Benson and Clegg. Top class. I knew he had joined Dunhill but did not realise it was in NY. I would not hesitate to use him again.