Introducing: The new PS Trench Coat

Wednesday, March 24th 2021
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I'm so, so excited to have this trench coat back and available again on the PS store. 

Why? Well primarily because I've been wearing it over the past few weeks, and I'd forgotten what an exciting design it is. That collar; that length; the pleasure of buttoning it all up under the chin. 

It has such drama, yet it's so intensely practical (as all the best menswear is). The lapels are that size so they button all the way across the chest; the chest pocket is asymmetric because it makes it really easy - and satisfying - to store your phone and there. 

(For those that will ask early, the coat is only available here, and costs £915 plus VAT - a reduction on last time.)

The other reason is the tweaks we've made to the original design seem to have worked out well. The big one was the fastening of the belt.

I always liked the fact our belt didn't run all the way around the coat: it made it look less like an old man's rain coat and much cleaner, more modern. 

But the way the belt attached to the front edge was a little fussy, with a heavy buckle that had to be fastened inside when not in use. 

Our solution is to replace that buckle with a simpler version, akin to the ones used on the waistbands of trousers. It is light and discreet, so it doesn't have to be hidden away; and to fasten it all you have to do is feed the belt through, and pull it taut (see above).

The resulting mechanism is quick and easy, and has a much more relaxed feel. It's a simple cinch, like tying a wrap coat. 

You can use the belt without the buttons - for speed - or do everything together. Either way, the belt usually then stays in place. If it needs to be more secure, perhaps when there's more bulk underneath, you can tuck the end of the belt behind itself (second image above). 

That's probably a lot of detail for anyone that hasn't heard of this coat before. Let's zoom out a second.

The Permanent Style Trench is a waterproof coat made in cotton Ventile, with taped seams. 

It takes design inspiration from both a despatch rider's coat (such as that angled chest pocket) and a traditional trench, and comes with a removable wool/cashmere liner that makes it wearable most of the year. 

A collaboration between Permanent Style and Private White VC, the coat was first introduced in 2017. It is made at the latter's factory in Manchester, England. 

The other small changes we've made this time include a popper to keep both sides of the throat latch secure, and a more secure liner. The liner now has more attachments inside, and larger buttons. 

(I find that lining so useful. I've had so many waterproof coats over the years that could only be worn one or two seasons because they didn’t have a removable lining.)

I also felt the navy colour suited darker hardware and didn't suit the D-rings. So we changed the former and removed the latter. 

I think the new blackened hardware is pretty cool myself. (You can just see it in the image below, with the Private White symbol on it.)

For everyone that didn't read about it the first time, what else is special about the PS Trench Coat?

First, the material. Cotton Ventile is perfect for a coat like this. It doesn’t have rustle of synthetic waterproofs, but it is entirely waterproof once the seams are taped. It also ages really nicely - softening and fading slowly at the seams, like other cottons.

This new navy is smart enough for any business wear, yet also looks great with just trousers and knitwear (as shown below) or dark denim.


The length also continues to please me.

Trench coats have been cut shorter and shorter in recent years. This not only denies them the swish and swagger of a long coat, but it's highly impractical. In the rain, water simply streams off the bottom and onto your knees as you walk.

So ours sits definitively below the knee. There is also a small, hidden flap at the bottom of the coat, which allows it to be fully closed across the knees if required.

Throughout the design process, the guiding philosophy was not to skimp on any detail. Details, after all, are what a good trench coat is all about.

So it has:

  • Big hip pockets, with wool/cashmere lining in the front
  • That angled despatch chest pocket
  • A great throat latch on the collar (giving protection right up around the chin)
  • In-set sleeves on the front of the coat, to give a cleaner appearance, but raglan sleeves on the back, to aid movement
  • Gun flaps on the shoulders at the front, and a saddle piece across the back
  • Dark-brown horn buttons, fastening that double-breasted front all the way up 


Of all these details, I particularly enjoy the throat latch: I had forgotten how closely we engineered it so there is protection right around the chin. You can almost nestle your neck down in there like a turtle. 

The combination of raglan at the back, set-in sleeve at the front, is also something I had completely forgotten about until I started wearing the new navy version. 

And I love the saddle piece across the top of the back. 

From the rear, it is this piece, the cinched waist, and the length that give the coat such style. 

Let's finish with some testimonials. These are from readers that owned and loved the first iteration, and left comments on the launch articles. 

I took delivery of one of these amazing coats last Friday. I think its absolutely awesome – the cut the design the fabric and the build quality. Very very pleased,” Andy.

“I have to write again about this because this coat is an absolute masterpiece. The Ventile fabric is off the Richter scale. It doesn’t rustle like some other waterproof fabrics, keeps every drop of rain out and breaths really well. To top it all, it looks achingly cool. I was waiting for a train at Waterloo and had three enquiries as to where I got it. I should be getting paid for advertising it!” David.

“I had the good fortune to snap one up in the first round, but it’s only now with the rain that I’m making regular use of it. And it’s a joy in every way! The combination of quality, practicality and style is streets ahead of the Aquascutum coat it replaced. Thank-you Simon.” Dominic.

Sizing and delivery 

The sizing measurements are set out below. Note that in these images I am wearing a medium (4) whereas in previous shots I wore a small (3).

I think this demonstrates how much most people can wear two sizes with this kind of coat  - given its raglan fit and ability to cinch the waist as much as you want. 

It's really a case of how close you want the coat to be, and what you will wear under it most of the time. I liked the small, but it was tight over a suit. The medium is better, and never looks big because of that belt at the waist. 

Measurements in cm XS/2 S/3 M/4 L/5 XL/6 XXL/7
Chest 104 109 116 123 130 137
Shoulder to shoulder 42.5 44 45.5 47 49 50.5
Centre back length 118.5 119 120 121 122 123
Sleeve length 67.5 68 69 70 71 72
Waist circumference 100 105 112 119 126 133

Alterations

I know that I'm above average height, and that therefore the coat might be a little too long for some people. This is easy to alter, as the coat is unlined (and the removable lining considerably shorter than the full coat). 

At least 10cm can be taken off the length of the coat without causing any issues. Private White VC offer a great service in their store for this, or it can be done by a local alterations tailor. 

The sleeves can also be shortened, but only by about 1.5cm. More than this and the end of the sleeve gets too close to the cuff flap and will look odd. But 1.5cm will make a noticeable difference.

They can also be shortened by more than 5cm if you want to remove the flap, but I doubt many people will need that. 

The sleeves can be lengthened slightly too, by around 1.5cm, though there is a small chance of a mark where the fold was. Adjustments to the body are not really possible unless you are willing to give up the taped seams.

The coat is available now, in size XS to XXL, on the PS Shop here.

Other clothes pictured:

Photography: Alex Natt @adnatt. Video: Itch Media

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Gus

Another lovely design. To anyone who hasn’t tried them, Private White VC clothing is just fantastic.

Gilles

Indeed. I love both my PWVC Submariner roll neck and my Bridge coat in collaboration with PS. Re the new trench coat, it is absolutely beautiful, but I will stay loyal to my beloved Burberry Kensington!

David

The coat is simply extraordinary. I have had some experiences of seam taping losing adhesion relatively quickly. Especially around active areas, IE the armpit. Does Private White VC use regular taping glue or possibly some kind of heat treatment? On sizing, would you say it is similarly sized to the new Donegal coat?

Josua

Dear Simon,

really great coat. Did I understand it correctly, that it comes with a removable wool/cashmere liner? I couldn’t see it in any of the pictures. Maybe you could add one that shows the liner?

Best
Josua

Teo

Hi Simon,

I am considering purchasing the coat but I have a few questions, if I may.
How would you say a trench fits into a smart casual/smart wardrobe in terms of importance? I already have the PS Bridge Coat and I’m lined up to snag a Valstarino alongside a few casual pieces of outerwear I own. Do you think the next acquisition should be a trench like this or rather maybe going for a high-quality, hopefully bespoke, overcoat?

Secondly, I’m slightly concerned as to the length of the sleeves. I’m 1.79m tall and the sleeves on the PS Bridge Coat are a bit long – I will be shortening those by about 1/2cm. Given the sleeves here are even longerr by default (69cm on a medium trenchcoat vs 67.5cm on the medium bridge coat), I’m worried they would look overly long even with the ability to remove 1.5cm as you mention in the article.

Any advice would be great.

Teo

Teo

Thanks very much for your reply, Simon, this makes sense.

I’ve never worn a raincoat before and to be honest I haven’t truly felt I need it but given I live in the sometimes inclement London climate, I think it might be useful. I’ve noticed I always go for a more casual piece of outerwear when it’s raining which then affects the entire rest of my outfit. I felt that the raincoat can be this useful piece which fits both with suits but also with, say, jeans, shirt, and chukkas, when the weather is bad.

I would love to go with a bespoke overcoat first but given a full-time return to a smart office is less and less likely, I wonder if I need to shift focus somewhat. Do you think the trench is able to fill that niche?

Teo

Thank you, Simon. I just pulled the trigger on it and I’m really keen to receive it. It’s a big purchase but hopefully one that will be worth it in the long run. Thanks for your help.

Paul

Simon, I’m having a Private White raincoat tailored at the sleeves. What instructions should I give the tailor to get them the proper length? It would be used broadly, occasionally with a suit but mostly with knitwear.

Joe

Hi Simon,

I am little smaller in height (5ft 8″) but broader in stature than you (42-44 chest).
I bought the wax walker in a medium size. The fitting was fine for walking, but it would have been a little too tight to wear jacket underneath for me.
As such, I wish to purchase the larger size, but I would like to get both the sleeve length and the overall length shortened as you mentioned was possible in the article. And I would preferably like Private White VC to do this for me – as it would be so much easier.
Do I need to purchase the coat first on the Site and then send the alternation request to the [email protected] or is there an alternative way to proceed with this?
Thanks as ever for all the wonderful articles and offerings like this..!
Joe.

Yash

Hi Simon,

I have the Donegal now in a size 2 and it is spot on. I tried it yesterday with a blazer underneath and an A&S Shetland and it fits just right. Maybe ever so slightly close with the blazer but still with sufficient movement.

Just about to order the Trench coat now and we have discussed this before but, having had a detailed look at the sizes, there really is very little difference in size between the XS and S in the Trench. Therefore I remain slightly confused as to the correct size between the two to order. Any thoughts?

On a side note – the Donegal is superb. A true heritage and heirloom item. The detailing is superb, the colour is just perfect, not just in shade but also depth and “brightness” (not too much and not too dull either. Great and substantial weight but not too heavy to wear all day. Utterly superb.

Yash

A pleasure Simon!

Great. Will order that now in that case.

I may need to shorten the Donegal slightly (on account of my less than vertignious vertical measurement) but can wait for that till PWVC reopens in April or later. No rush as the weather will warm up now.

Can I also ask re the Watch Caps, once restocked, will they come back in the same colours or any colour discontinuation/new ones coming in? I already have cream and red.

And, finally, also considering the Wax Walker on this restock or the next one but I do have a Classic Beaufort by Barbour. I know the detailing and quality on your ones is in a different league but is there a case for both or am I likely to stop wearing/enjoying the Barbour quite so much once the Wax Walker arrives? My feeling is that the Wax Walker can be also be worn in a smarter context due to the detailing and fit. I would assume also a size 2 in the Walker for me?

Any reason also why you got rid of your Barbour?

Many thanks.

Yash

Noted re the Watch Caps.

I suspected the Barbour might see less or no usage once the Wax Walker comes in. But will there be another restock later this year or next of the Walker. And also a size 2 in the Wax Walker you think?

Thanks for coming back to me on the reason for not having your Barbour anymore.

Many Thanks Simon.

Yash

Great. Thanks for the patience in replying Simon.

Trench size 2 now ordered. Will post impressions here once received.

Many thanks.

Joseph

Ah nuts, I’ll probably never see the olive version again, even used – I don’t believe for a second anyone would be willing to part with theirs, it was such a well-conceived and manufactured piece! In any case, congrats to you and Private White VC on this re-release, Simon. I’m positive this batch will be another smash hit.

If you’ll forgive my curiosity (and my foolishness if I’m mistaken): are the suede boots new? Perhaps you left out any mention of them to make way for an upcoming review in the works? *wink wink*

Joseph

No biggie, Simon!

The boots are from the MTO service, then? I can guess why you picked a slimmer last, it probably goes so well with your concept of casual chic.

On not fully reviewing pieces from oft-covered brands – understandable. It’s part of what I love about PS: there’s more than ample opportunity for other excellent brands to be covered, so there’s bound to be something for every reader looking to build their wardrobe around a particular aesthetic or budget.

Chancellor

Can you comment on your decision to offer it in navy now rather than the original olive? This colour feels like it leans a bit more formal than the previous version.

David

Hi Simon, If I might ask you to speculate, do you think you will release the trench coat in the brown/olive again one day?

Brian

Here’s another friendly request for a re-release of the olive!

Paul

And another vote for the olive. I was looking forward to the re-release of the Trenchcoat, but sadly this version in navy leaves me cold. The original olive was a rather unusual and distinctive shade…

Anonymous

You can add me to that this list too. I’d love all these new updates but in the olive.

Anonymous

I too really liked the olive kind of colour and was hoping for it in the rerun. Since everything else in a classic men’s wardrobe is pretty much blue-ish/grey it created a nice contrast imo.

DT

Would also love to see the original color in the new design!

Ryan

Add another to the queue, Simon…

Ryan

…Upon further reflection, I would also be thrilled with something on the camel/caramel brown/British tan spectrum, if ‘something new’ is again on the docket.

James

Can the coat be lengthened?

Mbb355

Simon, pardon me if I missed it, but do you mind telling us the weight of the fabric and whether it will work in hot and humid (and rainy) weather? Thanks as always, this looks terrific and I love your descriptions of all the neat little details.

Mbb355

Got it, thanks. I’ve been on the lookout for a new raincoat and was considering your Wax Walker, but this trench might be even closer to the mark…

I like that the color is navy but not quite a very dark navy. Looks almost more like a muted dark indigo (which I suppose makes it more suitable for casual wear in addition to formal).

BV

What season is this for? Is there a lining to can be removed? Can you wear this in Fall?

Thanks!

Karl

I bought the olive version soon after it was first released, and find both the design and construction to be beyond reproach, as is consistent with the other Private White VC/Permanent Style collaborations which I have bought. It is quite functional and aesthetically pleasing. However, I almost never wear it when dressed in a suit. Why? Years ago I read the book, Dress for Success, by John Molloy, and, as well, was able to hear him speak at a convention. His conclusion, as regards “raincoats,” was that, based upon his “field tests” one “must wear a beige raincoat-if you wish to be accepted as a member of the upper-middle class and treated accordingly.” Although he did go on to state that “among all other raincoat colours only dark blue tests as acceptable.” So, although the new dark blue version is a step in the right direction, I anxiously await the availability of a khaki/beige version, perhaps in vain. I will note, as well, that there could be a cultural difference between the English and the American attitude towards variations in colour. Molloy’s basic point was that beige, and lighter colors in general, are more difficult to maintain, which is why the lower classes tend to shun them in favor of darker colors. For those who are or wish to be considered upper-middle class (or higher) the maintenance issue is relatively insignificant. Molloy repeatedly found that those dressed in beige raincoats were treated considerably better and with more respect. In short, the olive and dark navy are fine for wearing routinely, but my bias is to only wear beige with suits.

Henry

Only someone who is not actually upper class would even consider such a thought when looking at the colour of someone’s raincoat. In my experience, it is more often than not a middle class person trying to be all prim and proper in order to give out a perception of class. As Simon often points out in his articles, effortlessness is the key to elegance.

Joe

Simon,

When the belt is not fastened or buckled in use – does it just hang by its own loosely or is there a securing mechanism to keep it aside?
Thanks
Joe.

Chris K

Excellent work as ever Simon, something so modern and clean about this coat, the despatch riders angled pocket gets me every time. Looked great on the first iteration, but with the new belt mechanism and that cold dark navy… perfect.

On that note, I’ll attest to the Ventile fabric (particularly in this navy, think Private White call it midnight?) I’ve had the Harrington from them in this same shade going on a year now, and man does it age as you describe. Something about the Ventile finishing, It almost has a chameleon like character (even more so as it ages and varies slightly in tone), looking close to black in dark light. Cold, dark, clean.

Lovely touch with the blackened hardware.

Best,
Ck

SGM

This coat ought to become an ‘institution’ in the same way other pieces of outerwear have over the past 20 years. Congratulations to you and everyone involved in its design, it’s truly spectacular. Indeed, I was hoping the next iteration would be something very similar to this — although I probably would’ve gone for a slightly darker shade of blue (just my preference of course) — and so I’ve literally just purchased mine! Any indication of when I can expect to receive it Simon (London based)?

Justin

Lovely coat but I also was hoping for the olive trench coat to come back (even asked Private White directly multiple times in the past years). Simon, do you think it would be possible to start a waitlist for the olive version (maybe even with a down payment to be safe) and if it reaches a defined threshold, to make it a reality (in the updated style) ?

Thanks!

Richard

Very tempting Simon but please share with me advice on cleaning. I have the ventile mac from PW and whilst I love the design am not overly impressed with the ‘wipe down with damp brush’ washing instructions. I understand the issue with the tape but surely you’d expect, owning coat like this for years and years something a little more ‘thorough’ in terms of a good old clean every now and again? What would you suggest?

Kenny

How does Private White’s ventile cloth compare with Grenfell cloth? I’m think of buying a trench coat and the Grenfell (in a traditional design) is quite a bit cheaper.

Peter Hall

Private White Ventile is superb. Apart from being waterproof, it’s wind proof. I love my Harrington. Highly recommended.
So pleased you have gone for a longer coat. I’ve always considered they should shift water to below the knee.
Proper gentleman’s coat.

Adam

An absolutely beautiful coat, Simon. I had been kicking myself for not picking up one of SEH Kelly’s trench coats before they sold out last fall and ended up buying a Uniqlo trench in navy – not a bad coat for the money! – but now I’m looking at this trying to stop myself from buying it.

Sander

Dear Simon

I’m really happy to see the return of the dispatch coat! I have hoped for a rerelease (perhaps in olive or brown), but navy is also a good colour of choice.

Two questions: (1) I did unfortunately not “pull the trigger” on the last edition (mainly because of the price). As a poor PhD-candidate one has to be quite selective in their purchases. How long do you think you will have it in stock and will their be a restock later?

(2) I already have a PWVC ventile Mac 3.0 in size 3. The fit is pretty good, but I find it somewhat slim (not sure if this is generally the case with original PWVC design or how it compares with PS collaborations). I’m also somewhat short, so coats tends to fit on the longer side. I don’t usually mind this as I often find they look better that way. What are your thoughts on fit? Should I stay with the size 3 or go for a different size? I’m roughly 173 cm in height.

Karl

I would like to add to my remarks from yesterday, in view of the comments by Simon and Henry. I will preface the following by stating that opinions on the matter of colour for trench coats are, admittedly, quite subjective. However, it may be advisable to consider the truism that trends in menswear evolve slowly. With this concept in mind, I refer the reader to the relevant comment made by G. Bruce Boyer in his 2015 book, True Style, in which he mentions that, after the initial launch of the trench coat in the WWI era, “the years have been good to the redoubtable trench coat…….Apart from subtle changes in length to suit the fashion of the times, the trench coat has retained its battle ready status: double-breasted, waterproofed KHAKI (upper case entirely my alteration made for the sake of emphasis) cotton.” Certainly, Molloy’s book, which was released in 1975 is dated; G. Bruce Boyer’s book is more contemporary. That the khaki version, if offered by Permanent Style would sell as well or better than the Navy Blue or Olive rendering cannot be known unless it were to be made available. Yet, I genuinely believe that the Khaki variant would be scarfed up in a manner akin to the rapid sales of the Indulgent Shawl-Collar Cardigan. Of course, there would then be those pundits who would surmise that those individuals who bought such an item were merely poseurs.

Chancellor

Partly why I like the olive version that I have is that it is vaguely referential to the colour khaki, but darker and so more versatile and modern. It takes in the history but updates it to be more useful and better first with today’s sensibilities.

Alessandro

Hi, great piece. Can you confirm that you ship this duty paid to EU countries? So I will not incur into VAT or other duties when it arrives from UK? Thanks!

John

Hi Simon,
This is a great trench coat! I love the color, the length and the added functionalities that significantly upgrade the traditional ones.
John

Stephen

Hey Simon,

I was looking at your shoulder measurements and typically end up with a 20 inch measurement fitting me well. The XL is at 19.23 inches /49 CM. I was surprised by this and wanted to follow up incase I missed something. Typically, I see the XL around 20 inches or larger and I am concerned that this won’t fit me. I am 5’11 and around 190. So I don’t think I am outside of ‘standard’ sizes.

Any thoughts or insights regarding fit?

Best,
Stephen

Doug

It would be helpful to see a simple very well lit picture of the coat of the coat lying flat to see the full details. Even after looking at the pictures in the post and store and the videos, the styling and details are not entirely clear to me–I can’t figure out whether the coat is double breasted, for example, since the coat is either open, or your hands are in front, etc.. The dark color is part of this.

Colin

Was tempted with the first release but arguably the Navy fits work/business attire a little more as well as working casually? Would you say that the longer length suits slightly taller guys better (I’m 5’ 10)? I recall seeing a guy, who was on the shorter side, in the khaki one and it lacked the swagger you refer to, or perhaps there was a case that he should have sized down or had it shortened?

Jan

Dear Simon,

my trenchcoat has just arrived and I want it to rain so I can try it out.

The trenchcoat is my third Private White coat following the Bridge Coat and the Donegal. The raglan arms make the fit broader around the shoulders (compared to the Donegal). The lining is slimmer than I had feared and does not add bulk. Fit is true to size.

The cloth does not feel technical but rather like good old cotton, beautiful texture and the right amount of substance and grip without feeling heavy. The dark brass details, the front closure, the overall length, the spare buttons make the coat immensely practical while still being a thing of discreet beauty. Wonderful.

I only miss the Savile Row matt buttons. Not made for rain?

The Eu-logistics (to Germany) have worked well. The coat was dispatched on Wednesday, passed customs and arrived this morning. No additional payment and timing much like pre-Brexit. Well done.

Best regards and many thanks

Jan

Yash

Hello Simon.

I received last week the second of my PS/PW coats – the Navy Trench in an XS.

Where to start?

Well, the colour – a deep rich well of just the right shade of blue. Not so dark that it may look black but still dark enough to look dressy and formal and yet casual enough to straddle the smart/casual requirement.

Beautiful cotton fabric, substantial (not heavy) with a truly lovely handle.

The details are just that – detailed but only where required. Everything is subtle, which really helps nothing to stand out too harshly against a colour where every detail has the potential to be eye catching. Although eye catching it is, as soon as you get up close and see the darkened hardware, the lining, the really clever belt design and much more besides.

Finally the look. I will have to shorten mine after the 12th April (same as the Donegal) but my word, the look IS the thing.

A seriously sharp looking coat with real swagger but at the same time so minimalist in colour and feel, that only what needs to stand out, does. It achieves to perfection what I believe is the ultimate aim of most of the clothing discussed on this blog, to look even better than the very best version of you would otherwise look.

A masterpiece and I love it even more than the Donegal , which I love plenty on it’s own account. Most importantly, for me at least, what makes all the various items I have purchased from PS, is the highly personal nature and feel. I can feel the attention to detail and thought in every product, not just because of the excellent details your provide in how and why a piece came to be, but because of those details manifesting themselves when you see, touch and wear them (right down to items like the Watch Cap).

Brilliant stuff. ??

Yash

No worries Simon. Glad you feel I captured what the coat was meant to be but it just shows the integrity of the choices made around the design that those things were automatically apparent and I called it exactly as I was able to see it! Thanks.

Carl

Now I really hate Brexit. I ordered the trench coat immediately after the release and it is now stuck in DHL. It used to be overnight deliveries when I ordered from Permanent Style. I can of course wait but the problem is that I am unsure of the size and may have to return it for a smaller coat. But I am worried that you will be out of stuck before then.

Martins

By the way how does exchanges work after brexit to eu? If you paid vat, how to make sure that on return seller does not have to pay vat, and on receiving your exchange you don’t get charged vat again?

Joe

Simon,

A word of thanks if I may please.
Thanks for answering my questions concerning this piece a little earlier in the comments.
And thanks for delivering another investment piece to my closet.

I had bought the Wax walker and I was most impressed with its quality.
So much so, that despite already owning a single breasted Aquascutum Navy Trench coat, I just knew that the PS would be so much better. I took delivery of the new Trench coat this morning and and I’m delighted to say that it is an immeasurably superior coat in so many ways.

I was prepared that I might need to have it adjusted. Being 5ft 8inches – I thought that it might look a little longer on me or that the sleeve length would be too long. But it fits me perfectly. And having worn the single breasted trench in pretty dreadful Irish weather – I know that the double breasted coat made more sense. And as usual the finishing, the quality of the materials and the subtle details throughout are omens of the thoughtfulness that went into its design. It is a coat that I expect to have for the rest of my life. And in that context its price is an investment..!!

Mbb355

Simon, are you able to tell us up to what temperature the trench coat remains comfortable? I understand that cotton ventile is relatively lightweight and breathable, but I just wanted to know whether the coat is still wearable on a rainy day in, for example, the American south (where summers are regularly 80 degrees Fahrenheit, humid, and rainy). Thanks.

Mbb355

Understood, many thanks Simon, as always.

William Nixon

Oooooh this looks AWESOME, Simon! I was looking at the details of the coat and realised something- I don’t think I’ve ever seen a trench coat with a box pleat in the back- sometimes in the skirt around the vent, but never in the upper back. I wonder if you have any idea why this might be? One potential I could think of was that water *might* possibly collect in the pleat and be hard to get out, but I don’t know if that is even an issue?
Well done on designing such a fabulous coat!
W

William Nixon

On the topic of construction, obviously there is no canvas in the chest, but do PW use any kind of interfacing at all? Particularly for hems, lapels and collar? Especially as the lapels do tend to roll to the 3rd button down?
W

William Nixon

Ah okay, I suspected so- is it generally a woven interfacing?

William Nixon

Ah thanks for the correction! Always good to be learning!

W

Benjamin

A question on length of the coat please. The size 4 medium fits me fine, but not being as tall as you, the length comes down to about half way down the shin, rather than just below the knee. Should this be taken up to achieve balanced proportions or is it fine to have the additional length for rain coverage etc.?

Richard

Hi Simon,

You mention storing your phone in the angled chest pocket – if the coat didn’t have the chest pocket or you were wearing a cardigan or lightweight jacket where would you be storing your phone and/or wallet? I’m not a fan of carrying items such as phones in trouser pockets as it can create an unsightly outline/shape yet if wearing a linen jacket that would be mishapen with the weight or a cardigan without secure pockets I don’t have much of an option.

Ah the trials and tribulations of the modern man.

Thanks

Mbb355

Not sure what to add other than I’m blown away by this coat. I live in a warm-weather climate but I love cold-weather clothes, so I’d often covet those who could consistently wear beautiful garments like the PS Donegal or Bridge Coat, with their sumptuous drape and timeless elegance. This PS Trench Coat takes all of the sartorial sophistication of the Donegal and Bridge Coats and repackages it for warmer weather. I love the dramatic collar and lapels, the generous length, the fuss-free belt, the ample pockets, and the copper hardware against the dark navy fabric. The coat is so well done and wears in many different yet equally eye-catching ways—open, belted and buttoned, belted and nonbuttoned, and so on. Most of all, it’s so gratifying to now be able to consistently wear elegant outerwear without worrying about overheating. Thanks, Simon/PS team!

Mbb355

Sure thing. I forgot to add that the fit is nearly perfect on me, both with and without a jacket underneath. The only slight issue is that the sleeves are a bit too long. I typically need to get sleeves shortened though, I suppose my arms are just disproportionately short, so hard to fault the coat for that!

kristoffer

Lovely coat that can be useful in northern Scandinavia. I own the brown Donegal Overcoat. I note that the Motor trench has 70 cm sleeves in size 5, and 93 on the Donegal coat. Is this measured differently or is the Motor trench alot shorter sleeves? Is the coat pfc made or with environment friendly ventile? How many years do you/PrivateWhite assume it will keep waterproof? The color and details are perfect.

kristoffer

Thanks Simon. So will you say that sleeves for a 5 is longer on the Motor Trench or the Donegal? I´ll alter for longer length on both sleeves and length on the Donegal. Too much spagetti when growing up:) Is the quality equal to say Coherence of the Motor Trench? Such in need for something weatherproof.

Stephan

Dear Simon,
I understand it’s a bit of a conflict of interest, but you’ve always been objective so I will ask: what is your view on the quality of fabrics and the make of Burberry trench coats? I find they are excellent quality and do a great job of withstanding rain, and the style has not changed much. What I do regret is that they became shorter and narrower. But otherwise I think they hold water (is that a pun that deserves that I be sent to jail? :D) and are still a menswear staple, with a caveat that they are also a fashion item with all the baggage coming with that, including a slightly too high price tag.
Thanks,
Stephan

Stephan

Thanks, Simon. Glad to hear we share this view, as I’ve seen some hate online and IRL that I found unjustified based on experience.
P. S. I do believe without a doubt that you have never stopped being objective. That’s why I felt the need to point out both that fact and the fact that I’m asking a sort of a conflict-of-interest question 🙂 Thanks for proving me right on that front too.

Michael Hoffmann

I purchased the trench coat about a week ago and I have to say I am very satisfied. I was a bit worried about the sizing since Im rather smallish (177cm, 78kg) with a very athletic build and broad shoulders, and RTW garnments rarely fit me. However, in this case, size 4 was perfect. I will probably not even reduce the length of the coat.
The material and workmanship is of very high quality which high stitch density.I love the high collar, which got me the nickname “vampire boy”.
Thanks again to Simon and PVWC for creating such a great garnment that will hopefully accompany me a lifetime
Cheers from Munich
Michael

StuartR

Hi Simon
I’m having a PS trench coat made up using the PWVC MTO service. I haven’t asked them whether they are able to make it in the original olive colour, but it would probably be my preference if they were. I like the slightly lower formality of the olive as I already have a “formal” trench coat.
With the benefit of having worn both over a period of time, what’s your feeling?
Stuart

StuartR

Thanks Simon,
I’m probably edging towards olive or even brown; thinking that I will prefer either with dark denim and they would go with everything other than olive (or brown). I’ll just have to get the navy to go with that!!
It’s not as though raincoats will spend much time in the wardrobe…
Stuart

PM

Hello Simon,

The blue looks wonderful with the grey trousers in the photos above but do you think it would “work” with a dark navy sharkskin suit?

Thanks

Gab

Hi Simon,
I am a long-time fan of PWVC. I just checked their latest release for A/W and it confirmed what I have been noticing for a while: prices are going up very rapidly (as Drakes). For PW do you think it is due to quality improvements or only to other factors (better margins, COGs post Brexit…)? The great coat for instance has gone from 1.200 euros to 1.850 in a few seasons for instance.
thanks

MP

Hello Simon,
I seem to remember one of your comments on another post where you discuss redesigns/restocks of PS products, but I’m afraid I can’t find it (new Donegal this autumn and more Watch Caps in Oct?).
Have you redesigned the Trench, and if so when will it be released?
Thanks!

MP

Ah, I’m on the waiting list for the Watch Caps (and still keen to order one) so that must have been where I saw these details. Apologies for the confusion here, and thanks for setting me straight!

Dave

Can the original version of this coat be retrofitted with the new belt hardware?

Tony

Hi Simon,
If someone is shorter 170-172cm, would you still consider having the length where is it or would you try to keep it above the knees? Thank you

Ben R

Are the side pockets reach-thru or pass-thru – so you can access the trouser or jacket pockets without opening the coat? If so, is the removable liner compatible with this function?

Christopher

Dear Simon,
I am considering to buy your trench coat (this or the next, depends on when enough money is saved). My primary purpose would be to wear it while commuting by bike instead of wearing uncomfortable and unappealing plastic rain jacket. Therefore it would be important to know how water resistant the material is?
kind regards
christopher

Christopher

Thank you for your fast response! Do you have an alternative recommendation, which you could recommend for cycling?

Christopher

Especially the length exited me. I often use our cargo bike for dropping of my kids and thought the length would help me to avoid wearing annoying rain pants….

Christopher

Thank you for your patient answers!
I will think about alternative clothing….During research that topic I have fond Amity jackets, they offer a water resistent loden made jacket, but this has not has a look comparable to your trench coat. Currently I am wearing an vintage dutch military trench when cycling in the rain. Water resistant, but far away from a coat, which can be worn as overcoat. It looks very boxy…If something comes into your mind, I would appreciate sharing your thoughts!

Henry

Do you have more pictures of how it can be worn casually?

ARTHUR

Hello Simon, I plan to buy a new trench coat, considering dark blue or olive. Will the PS x PWVC one be back at one point?

Martins

Yes, i know you say cuts have not changed, but if it will, im seriously tempted! (v1 donegal seemed strange sizing, v3, perfect.)

Olive i think was the best colour!

Currently i have not tried suede and linen jackets, but trench is the only one where sizing doesnt work for me, which i find quite strange, considering everything is designed and sized by the same company..

Since pwc shut london shop, will it be available in pop up?

John

Thank you for this Simon. I will probably be buying one of these as it looks great, but what i’m really looking for in a raincoat is a traditional garbadine cloth in a ‘stone’ beige colour, as almost everyone in the past used to wear, but i can’t seem to find any these days. They all now used a more rigid cloth and come in a much warmer yellow-ey ‘camel’ colour, and i can’t find anything like the type epitomised by the late Prince Philip (https://www.gettyimages.co.uk/detail/news-photo/the-queen-mother-queen-elizabeth-ll-and-prince-philip-duke-news-photo/96519568?adppopup=true)
Do you know where i might find a traditional single-breasted raincoat along these lines? I’ve tried Aquascutum, Mackintosh and Burberry, but all have long since modernised their lines (or been bought out).

Alberto

Simon, question: what’s your take on wearing trench coats with knitwear underneath, especially on chilly days? I always struggle with balancing the different textures, especially in the case of slightly heavier wool/cashmere knitwear. It looks a bit odd to me, but I have a hard time finding alternative options for those early spring/late-fall chilly days.

Alberto

Thanks, Simon. I think I felt a bit odd when pairing a lambswool sweater (from Rubato) with a cotton gabardine trench coat. I perceived a strange difference in texture – as if something was off, that was probably emphasized by the fact that, since then, I had been wearing the same sweater with heavier, chunkier overcoats.

Antoine

Dear Simon, I am an avid reader but rarely comment. This time I am in need of your insights ! I am moving to Singapore this Summer, where it is both very hot and tropical rain is expected almost daily. Would you have a recommandation for a raincoat both super light and waterproof ? I would like to avoid the ubiquitous panchos in polyester you find everywhere in Singapore… thanks ! Antoine

Andrew

Simon, will there be a restock of the Navy Trench in XXL next year?

Erk

What is the reason for discontinuing the coat please?

Maxwell

If one tries to take classic menswear to its logical conclusion I think it’s hard to arrive at anything other than that of the trench coat.
Like you say, Simon, it’s immensely practical.. yet at the same time it’s definitely not utilitarian; it refuses to sacrifice elegance in the way that nearly all other rain coats do. To my mind it’s like the classic suit but on steroids; it is unapologetically masculine in the way it builds up the chest with its wonderful lapels, frames the face with its mobile collar, slims out our aging bellies and lengthens our silhouette (arguably doing a better job of it too than that of a suit). While it’s busy doing all this it also somehow finds the time to add visual interest with its skirt, dancing around our legs while in motion in a way that a jacket can never hope to compete with. It’s simply an immensely flattering and timeless piece.
While the case can be made to call it dramatic, it might be more fair to call it striking. It makes a statement, sure, but at the same time keeps it understated; when wearing a trench in its natural element it never feels like it’s being ostentatious or out of place or that I’m trying too hard. It is surprisingly forgiving. In large part I think that can be credited to its immense usefulness forever immortalized in its iconic military history. It’s so exceedingly versatile that it has also effortlessly traversed the gender gap and cemented itself very comfortably in the wardrobes of the opposite sex.
Fortunately for me there are so many opportunities to wear it. You and I share a very similar climate and hairline, Simon, so most of the time I’m combining it with flannels, some rubber-soled suede boots and a decent hat. When wearing my various trenches they unquestionably receive more positive reception than any of my other garments. One of my all time favourite pieces is a classic navy that fits more like a bodycoat rather than an overcoat. I just button it up over the top of a shirt and tie when I’m off on errands and it still looks entirely complete. Who needs a jacket?
One thing I would say regarding the PS trench is that I truly wish it came with epaulettes. While they are of course not the most practical detail (at least in modern times) to me they are ones of the the most quintessential aspects of the trench. The raglan sleeve is superlative when it comes to comfortable and convenient design but it does lack the beautiful structured shoulder that you find in other coats and jackets. I believe that the epaulette is the solution to this; it compliments and contrasts the rounded sleeve by building up visual interest above and towards the shoulder line without compromising practicality. They simply look incredible. I hope to see their inclusion in future PS models, at least in the form of a removable one.
Cheers mate, have a great 2024.

Tony

With ventile fabric, will ironing make it loose the water resistant properties? If I am able to iron, do I still put it on higher heat for cottons? Need to fix some shape in the lapel but unsure how.