What shoes should I wear with brown trousers?
This might seem like a fairly simple question, but it comes up so often in comments that I think it’s worth answering in full here, and then directing anyone in the future to this post.
The reason people ask about shoes with brown trousers, of course, is that brown is probably the most common colour of (smart) shoe and that is presumed to be ruled out, being too similar to the trousers.
The classic alternative would be black, and a black shoe looks great with brown - whether chinos, cords or flannels.
The only problem is that black is also the smartest colour, and for a lot of people it’s a shoe they’d only wear to work, or to a similarly smart event.
Personally I think they should give black another chance. As we’ve discussed before, it’s great if you like to wear a lot of tonal, cold colours, as I do. And taken out of a work context, it can look very chic.
Go for a loafer or a boot, rather than a cap-toe oxford, consider different materials like suede, cordovan or grain.
Next, let’s talk about brown - wearing brown shoes with brown trousers.
First off, if the suit is a mid- or light brown, dark-brown shoes are fine. With my Dalcuore brown tweed suit above, the shoes are clearly darker than the suit, creating the distinction between the two that’s normally the aim with smarter dressing.
It’s nice too that the two are differentiated by texture, being shiny calf against matte wool.
However, if you don’t have the same requirement to be smart (and you may not, given black has already been ruled out) then it can be fine if the shoes are a touch lighter than the trousers.
Above, I’m wearing the ‘dark oak’ colour of leather from Edward Green as a loafer, with the darker brown of Fox ‘charbrown’ flannel above.
It helps here that the shoes and trousers are, as above, different textures. One is a reflective calf and the other a light-sucking flannel.
It also helps that the loafers contain more than one colour of brown. Burnishing by the manufacturer, and wear and polishing by the owner, mean that the shoe is now almost as dark as the trouser on its heel and toe. This fits in much more easily than a simple, flat mid-brown.
Then having understood the rules, we start breaking them for effect.
As Anglo-Italian demonstrate with their combination above, a brown shoe that is almost exactly the same as the trousers isn’t necessarily bad.
It’s just a look, in much the same way as the navy shirt with the navy jacket. This is no longer professional, office dressing, and many of the rules don’t apply as a result. It’s just a pleasing, tonal style.
The other option for shoes is a dark colour that isn’t brown or black. Horween’s Color 8 cordovan is, for me, king in this regard.
Color 8 varies a little naturally, and Alden famously redyes theirs when they buy it from Horween. But you want it to be as dark as possible, and that can be achieved with (tentative) use of black cream or polish if you want.
This colour is so dark that for many people, they don’t notice it’s not black. And yet it’s clearly richer and deeper than black, and doesn’t have that office-shoe look.
The colour is also quite purple, with some blue in there, which might be why it looks - for me - so much better than most colours referred to as ‘burgundy’. Redder tones can be OK with navy, but I like them less with charcoal or brown trousers.
I’ve never particularly liked burgundy or dark green in shoes. They stray too far into the dandy category a friend likes to call ‘coloured shoes’. By which I believe he means everything apart from black, brown and white.
Speaking of white, an ecru canvas shoe can be nice with a casual brown trouser, such as cotton or linen.
And speaking of canvas, black canvas can be great with brown chinos too. Something like the black Doek oxford, but with the black laces they come with rather than white.
I think that’s about it. I have seen tan leather shoes look OK with brown trousers, but it’s not something I would wear myself.
If black loafers feel a little dull with your brown trousers, maybe try some colourful (but dark) socks, rather than striving for brighter shoes.
St Crispins CRU609 I find helps strike a balance, similar strategy to Color 8. Essentially looks black, without the work connotations.
Thanks
Black shoes with brown trousers !
I had to check it wasn’t an April Fools .
I’d rather go out in in underwear then brown trousers with black shoes !
If brown shoes can’t go with a black trousers then the reverse must also hold true ! It must !
Brown trousers call for a darker brown or preferably a burgundy .
Maybe even a dark purple .
P.S. bizarrely the brown trouser , purple socks combo seems to soften the black shoe …. Something about brown and purple …hmmmm.
“Purple in mens clothing” …. Now there’s an article.
Each to his own Robin, but hard to see how someone could object so strongly to that combination. If you have anything more substantive to add I’d be interested.
The example of brown shoes and black trousers is a strange one as well – of course it’s different. If you’re dressing smartly, shoes are nearly always darker than the trousers. It looks more harmonious and naturally more elegant as a result.
I remember “no brown with black” being a “rule” when I first started reading about classic menswear, and almost immediately after I started seeing the pairing everywhere. It’s a rule perpetuated by its counterexamples.
I myself find the pairing sometimes problematic, but no where near as much as brown and purple. I’m allergic to purple in general.
I think that rule makes sense with more classic tailoring where black is nearly always a smart shoe, and brown is always seen as much more casual, in tweeds and so on. When the brown is dark and in a fine material, and the shoe is a loafer, things are more easily mixed up
I used to feel the same about purple and still find it hard to use more than sparingly. Inspired by Simon, I bought some grey and ‘eggplant’ striped socks from Mes Chausettes Rouge and wore them with black oxfords and a grey suit and they looked fantastic. The quality of the socks was important but breaking up the grey and the black with a similar dark tone looked great.
I’m with you on that one. Black is the only colour that doesn’t go with brown (proper brown and not fawn or beige which black can go with). It looks like you only own one pair of shoes.
Yeah, I’m not taken with black shoes & brown trousers, maybe if a charcoal brown hue, but otherwise there are too many browns, leathers & styles. As for black trousers with brown shoes, I find it works well with corduroy & makes it more casual & toned down.
Actually Simon, taking a second look I think those ‘ black ‘ shoes do work with the brown trousers probably because it tones well with the knitwear.
Fully agree Robin
Yes black shoes with brown trousers just looks so obviously wrong.
Thank you so much for this comment, Robin. Black shoes with brown trousers was the worst advice I have come across on PS. I was sure this was a joke, but Simon seems to be quite serious really?? Maybe we will see a different opinion here in a couple of years…
I’m afraid not Nathan, sorry, and it’s something I’ve been wearing and showing for a while. As with most things though, the execution is all about the details. Wear a black calf oxford with most of this, and it’s very different
I’m genuinely amazed by this comment and others in the thread. Brown trousers with black shoes is a classic combination that goes back decades. Back when it was much more expected that black shoes be worn in town and/or in smart settings, formal city suits in brown were also popular; and I’d imagine that the overwhelming majority of those that wore them never so much as considered owning any burgundy shoes. None of this is to say that every black shoe goes with every brown trouser, but hopefully that’s obvious.
I personally find burgundy/bordeaux/plum/oxblood to be the most universal shoe colour if the shade is dark enough, it really can work with anything and appear both formal and semi-casual at the same time, depending on rest of the outfit.
As you feel about museum calf some would feel about burnished shoes. For the record I enjoy burnished shoes, museum calf can be ok on others.
The ecru canvas shoe on the other hand can work like a t-shirt can work under a blazer but it just isn’t quite right for me.
curious about colour 8 cordovan. when it’s dark, I completely agree about versatility. however some crockett examples I’ve seen was so light it put me off the colour. also on style forum Carmina thread people are wondering that colour looks more red than what’s on pictures.
Yes, Color 8 varies anyway, but particularly Alden’s is usually different as they recolour theirs from Horween.
When I’ve had it from other suppliers (eg Edward Green) it has tended to be lighter and redder. Of course you can darken it with a little black, but it’s a little risky and nicer to start with actually very dark.
Just got a pair of vintage Alden’s, hoping for the darker #8 you’ve written of. Sadly they’ve been polished so much over the years that they’re quite light now.
Your tip regarding black polish has given me hope!
More recent vintages of Alden shoes in Color 8 cordovan are much darker than earlier ones. I have three pairs of Alden in Color 8 cordovan, the first an LHS from 10-12 years ago, the second an NST derby and the last an oxford brogue with a double sole bought last year. Each one was darker than its predecessor at the time of purchase.
As Simon mentioned, at least Alden redyes their Color 8 cordovan darker than the factory finish, and it’s to me also more purple in tint, kind of a ”dark plum” instead of the usual reddish brown.
Once the factory finish wears off, it gets lighter unless treated with a pigmented cordovan cream (Saphir has a perfect fit in dark burgundy) and really old Color 8 can lighten to an almost orange-ish red, particularly if exposed to sunlight.
Yes, more like a pink tinge, like some light burgundy wines.
…sorry for the potential confusion, the first ”factory finish” was naturally meant to refer to Horween’s finishing and the second to Alden’s.
Thanks Andreas. It doesn’t sound like this is typical, but I haven’t found that lightening with my Aldens – at least after six years, they don’t seem any lighter
In my military days ,we used to use brown polish (very sparingly) onto black shoes. It deepens the shine and adds a little depth.
Never tried that. Thanks Peter
I use a navy wax polish for the same reason
The YouTube channel “The Elegant Oxford”, which has a lot of videos about shoe care and shine, recommends using navy blue polish for mirror shining black shoes. Never tried it myself but the results on his videos look great.
I use brown polish on black cap toes and black longwings. It doesn’t change the color, it softens it.
For that perfect deep mahogany finish …
Interesting. I’d never really thought about intentionally going against the obvious colour profile.
Pale socks work great too. White, cream or pale brown can easily break up dark brown trousers and shoes. And then you can wear pale brown suede shoes. Loafers or chukkas probably. Chase Winfrey does that a lot, even with suits. It’s a nice, underrated color for shoes. Massimo Dutti has a cheap moc toe chukka in this color right now, so if anybody wants to try, it’s nice.
Do you have a picture you could add Karol? Having trouble visualising that, particularly pale socks with a smarter dark-brown trouser.
Not with the smart trouser, I’m afraid. I don’t have any in dark brown. That being said, if I had one, that’s the first thing I’d try. It worked fine with chinos though
I definitely agree with a textured leather versus smooth calf looks better, and in boots or tassel loafers (I strongly dislike black pennys – I don’t really have a good reason, they just look wrong to me). I’m not sold on the brown tassels, but I think you make it work well in the others even if I’d be unsure of doing it myself.
An article on what footwear to wear with black jeans, cords and other black trousers would be good, I think. My personal ones for that is black, white trainers or tan boots so I’m curious what else you’d suggest.
with black jeans, I think black or white trainers with a slightly retro look would be ideal – something like the Puma Suede in black.
That or loafers with a little heft to the sole, they are the ultimate ‘casual’ smart shoe for places (though that list has drastically shrunk these days!) where trainers or a ‘sport shoe’ would be considered inappropriate.
With black jeans, I like boots – nothing too shiny or pointy – I have a pair of pebble-grained, matte finish black calf wingtip boots from Rancourt that avoid looking too flashy, and then an interesting side-zip style from Soloviere (the Pierrot in black calf) that evokes a toned-down Chelsea. Second Nisha’s suggestion of chunky loafers or black suede.
Thought-provoking article again, Simon.
You’ve previously referenced black suede shoes and I think a black suede chukka boot (eg George Cleverley’s Nathan) would work well in most of the outfits photographed above. It would definitely be ‘a look’ – stylish and sharp, but without being over the top.
All the best.
Hi Simon,
Useful article which answers some questions and for me provided some inspiration. On a sort of related point: in the Anglo Italian picture and your words, we see navy shirt with navy jacket. Something I like but don’t often see. I think you may have written about this once? I tried to search it and couldn’t find. Any views on this look and also please post link to article / advise if you have written on this subject.
Have a good week.
Ps last picture looks a very good.
Yes, that’s a pretty classic look and the easiest way to wear a navy shirt or polo with tailoring. See mine with some discussion here with the lightweight friday polo
Thanks Simon much appreciated. Sorry I wasn’t searching the polo. Looks good
BTW those pictures look like the Fitzrovia area of London. I’m sure I used to walk through that street from Goodge Street station to Charlotte St. Thanks again.
Simon I couldn’t agree more. Black and brown are a very harmonious color combination, as any owner of a Bernese mountain dog or beer drinker can attest to. And brown shoes go fine with brown trousers because while the color is similar, the difference in materials between trousers and shoes is enough to visually differentiate the two (unless someone is wearing leather pants, but I’ll assume that excludes most Permanent Style readers.)
I would personally favour an oxblood (close to Horween colour 8) or navy pair, also I think most suedes would work in any colour for a more casual look, with black suede registering ‘less formal’ than black calf etc. but still ‘smart’ though more of the ‘going to a nice restaurant for a big anniversary’ smart than the ‘headed to the City for a business meeting’ smart.
I still have prejudice against this combination. Still find in most cases wrong to wear black and brown. Similar to dark blue and black. I know worn casually you have more leeway but still i find other alternatives better. Maybe some milkshake or tan suede appatt from the browns?
Lighter colours like that can be nice, yes, but it’s a different look, more casual, maybe better with rougher chinos etc
Strange you feel that about dark blue and black, given the obvious navy suit and black shoe combination? Presuming you meant that way round
yeah definitely. I’m trying to understand this combination and for some reason black cordovan it does look good
Simon, the color eight is an interesting idea. What color belt would you wear?
I often don’t wear a belt, but anything vaguely close – you don’t have to match. Much more on that here
This is an issue with which I have wrestled a little. So few shoemakers offer a genuinely dark brown. So often what they call dark brown is more of a darker medium shade. Whilst I struggle to find the right shoes to wear with brown rouses some ties, I’m afraid that black shoes don’t work as a solution for me. I’ve never seen a photo in which they look right, including those in this post and elsewhere on PS – sorry, Simon! Each to his own, though, as you say. The jury is out on Colour 8 cordovan too. I was looking at some Aldens just last week, but I’m just not taken with them. For me, the solution has been suede shoes. I have some really quite dark ones from Crockett & Jones and an older pair from pre-Prada Church and they seem to work well enough. Both are dark, cold browns as opposed to the dark, but slightly warmer, perhaps reddish, browns that one often finds in suede. I think that Edward Green offer and espresso suede that would work quite well too, and C&J have occasionally offered an espresso calf, if memory serves me correctly. In fact, I may give that a try as a custom order.
Thanks RT. If it makes any difference to you, I’d usually (as here) be wearing quite cold and desaturated things on top too – white, cream, grey, black. That helps sit with the black shoe better
Simon – what are your thoughts on ribbed vs un-ribbed socks? In particular, would one variety suits certain outfits more than the other?
No I don’t think so. I usually prefer ribbed because they seem to stay up better and perhaps there’s some visual interest there. But it’s a tiny thing
This color combination initially strikes me as “off”, but then I think about that great Italian combination of brown suit, white shirt, and black (not navy) knit tie. It’s causing me to reconsider
Good point
I have a DB linen suit from the W Bill Irish linen bunch in one shade of brown lighter than Simon’s DB shown in the first picture and often wear it on very bright and sunny days exactly as Hugh said with black tassel loafers, and think it looks really nice. I find that it needs the strong sunshine to work well though with black tie and shoes. On days when it isn’t so bright, I usually wear dark brown calf or suede shoes (along with a light blue shirt + dark blue knit tie) which also work because my linen suit isn’t quite so dark as Simon’s.
Interesting discussion Simon. Have you ever done anything in depth on socks? We know the views on with and without. But which colours work with what would be interesting.
Not in one place, no. Mostly it’s been comments in articles about outfits. Starting from the principle that for smart clothes the socks should match the trousers, and then working options from there. Perhaps there is a good article, though it could easily get pretty long. If there’s anything you’d particularly like to see let me know
I’m interested in unusual sock colours and matching those. I know there are strong feelings about being the “comedy socks” guy but it seems that there’s a nice balance to be struck between just enough and going over the edge. The shots of Daniel Day Lewis in his maroon socks in the Phantom Thread come to mind.
Thanks Zeke, OK
i rarely disagree with Simon (he’s wrong in chinos and a sports coat but apart from that…). But I do think subtle horizontally striped socks can provide a nice little pop to a suit or formal trouser without screaming “look at me”. But I can’t stomach polka dots or vertical stripes though. So maybe this all falls within the category of matching (or not) the trouser?
I can see that! Sounds OK if it’s subtle. I think it broadly counts as matching the trouser though if it’s the same colour just striped?
I think of it the same way I do pocket squares or ties. Needs to avoid being jarring or distracting but doesn’t need to be the same colour. So not matching as in identical (apart from e.g., black tie) but matching as in complementary.
I see, yes makes perfect sense
I agree wholeheartedly with you here, Simon.
I have a brown linen suit in an identical shade to the one you are wearing in the main image (Edward Sexton I think?). It never looks better than when I pair it with a white shirt and black shoes. And as the only black shoes I own are toe cap oxfords, I had to chuckle at the comments about formality because, in my humble opinion, they do not look too smart together. With a knitted black tie it’s a killer combination, as someone else has commented, but I very rarely want to wear a tie with a linen suit. I do, however, always wear black socks and do not think the combination suffers as a consequence.
Now I appreciate there are many naysayers here and some deeply held opinions, but I think the reason this combination works so well is due not only to the coldness but also the incredibly powerful contrast in all directions – the white and brown in your top half, the white and the black from top to bottom and the brown and black in your bottom half. I do not wear a belt or pocket square, which probably helps with the icy minimalism of the look, which again contrasts with the (usually) bright, sunny weather when I wear it.
Also to the comment about black jeans – I have no idea, but the ‘standard’ black and white converse shoes are probably the best I have managed!
Who makes the black loafers you’re wearing with green socks in the third to last photo?
Those are actually Color 8 cordovan full-strap loafers from Alden, more on them here
What are tan leather shoes for? Cream/olive? Light grey?
Most of the time, yes. Mid-tones certainly, and denim perhaps. More on that here
Not a big fan of brown trousers with black shoes. Intuitively I never do it and I would always go to a different kind of brown. As I do not buy the darker shoe concept, especially in summer, I do not mind lighter brown loafers with darker brown trousers. Patinated green or even navy shoes can work for me but are much more complicated to wear,
Great article Simon. Slightly off topic but with the blue jacket blue shirt / Friday polo combination. If you have dark buttons on.the jacket do you have a strong opinion on the colour of the shirt buttons. I see in the photo you choose a light colour. Appreciate your thoughts.
Not especially, no. Either dark or light is fine
Thank you for showing that black shoes can go with brown suits and brown trousers. I particularly like the first example you show. In most cases I prefer dark brown shoes with brown trousers, but I like black shoes with a more formal brown look, like a brown suit, particularly when the brown is very dark. Black shoes work well with cooler, muted browns than rich browns. But I don’t say that as a rule. There’s a military tradition of a tan uniform with black shoes that is also particularly striking. Black shoes have been shunned from fashion over the past decade so much that people have forgotten their versatility and the statement they can make.
Thanks Matt – and great point on the military tan/khaki with black
Black suede is trending quite a lot these days ; it just might be the bridge between brown trousers and black shoes, as the smoothness of black box calf may be infering too much formality for some people.
Simon, I had the same dilemma for a long while. I initially opted for black shoes. What do you think about brown shoes but breaking the colour continuity with red socks which fit perfectly with brown ?
I’m a little biased there, as I don’t really like really bright socks. They always feel a little garish to me. Dark green or dark purple at the most.
But, I do like the principle of putting something between the two, even if it’s just a slightly paler sock for example.
Another question that’s more baffling than it would initially seem. Fantastic advice!
“…it’s clearly richer and deeper and black” – did you mean “than” rather than “and”, Simon?
I did, thank you. There’s always one!
Dear Simon, such a useful article. May I ask you about whether you would also match all your leathers, especially belt, with black shoes while wearing brown trousers? For some reason I feel odd about putting belt on a brown pair of trousers, but it might as well be just custom and there’s not reason behind it. I think it would be interesting if you wrote an article about combining a nacthuing leathers as it is another subject with lot of preconceived ideas (eg. all leather should match). I saw several photos of you where your shoes and leather bags didn’t match at all and it clearly worked very well.
Hi – there is an article on this already, here. Lots of questions answered in the comments too!
Great article Simon,
I have a pair of char/brown odd flannels like yours firmly on my list, along with a dark brown linen suit one day (much further down the list for lifestyle reasons).
Black would be my first choice of footwear, despite some people’s opinions. I think there is no equal against a pair of muted (dark) brown trousers. Colour/color 8 is a great option, but as you say it needs to be as dark as yours, pretty much verging on black for me. Do you actually use a little black polish yourself? I saw someone else mention a little navy polish on their black oxfords somewhere for that extra punch, think I’ll pinch that idea.
I recall seeing an image on Mr Zottolo’s instagram a while back wearing a brown linen suit, casual shirt and a pair of Alden cordovan loafers in black, looked amazing. Granted he’s a bit of a handsome devil so that always help’s the overall image, none the less I like the combination. Supported further here by your slightly more formal, but no less cool brown linen suit and black cordovan combination
Cheers CK. I have very occasionally used black, but literally once or twice. It didn’t make much difference, but likely would have done if I’d used more
I’ve never worn dark brown, and don’t think I ever will.
I do, however, have three linen suits all of which are on the “tobacco” spectrum and, because they are essentially for warmer weather, I tend to wear them with unlined suede loafers, either in snuff or espresso shades. A white, pale blue or pale pink shirt works well with this, and, if necessary, a navy, pale blue or lime green knit tie to complement the choice of shirt colour.
On the sock front, I am slightly ashamed to say my default colour is cardinal red, no matter what I am wearing!!
Hi Simon,
Without labouring over something needlessly… “ tentative use of black cream or polish if you want.” I have some Colour 8 Alden loafers and hadn’t come across this before. I assume it’s as simple as it sounds and there isn’t any advice/tips such as allowing the leather to break in naturally before applying?
Problem with being obsessive over details is one wants to get it right….. 😉
I don’t think so, no, but do err on the side of caution always – you can easily add more, but harder to take it away
I find that black trousers/jeans/chinos go beautifully with brown shoes ?
I guess it varies a bit for me – washed black jeans with brown suede loafers, yes. But black tailored trousers struggle a bit
Nice article, Simon.
I’m a fan of black shoes with brown trousers, but as you say, the tone (of trouser) and material/style of shoe matters greatly.
That said, I do often wear my very dark brown Aubercy Lupin loafers with a pair of brown crispaire trousers; either with a white shirt or light blue if I do fancy some contrast.
I do think that most men who haven’t branched-away from black shoes, are typically still wearing black oxfords, and maybe that’s the problem when paired with a brown trouser.
Change that for a suede, or loafer, or pigskin (or whatever) and the contrasting style goes a long way in adding visual separation.
Yes I think you’re right Ant. Even if they’re not wearing that style of shoe, that’s their association
Hi Simon
Has your recent focus on colder colours changed your views on the versatility of black suede for informal footwear, like loafers? For example – pairing black suede with brown cords and chinos or even denim
A little bit, but I still only wear it rarely, when everything else is fairly straightforward and I want something a little more unusual in the footwear. Most of the time I’d still want calf or cordovan
This needs a warning: “For intermediate dressers and above”.
I immediately felt that statement like black shoes with brown trousers could get the conformist “old guard” on their toes, and even I would categorise that as some manifestation of sprezzatura. But I have to admit I do dabble with the combination myself, but maybe in kind of post-ironic way.
Kind of similarly to this, I guess, is why I personally don’t find seal brown leather jackets as appealing as some leather jacket enthusiasts do, as it’s little bit too close to black and not black at all at the same time, so combining it becomes a tad too restrictive.
Good point. That very dark brown feels more at home just with darker, colder colours elsewhere right? Like dark indigo, boots even, charcoal or grey knits.
Yeah, and I’d add maybe deeper reds in the mix also, like burgundies or rubies, if one can pull off the lord of the manor connotations. Eggplant maybe, but that’s bit too daring for my taste.
Or you could just crank out some milkshake suede (Alden) or nut suede (C&J) or mushroom suede (EG). These light shades do a great job with all shades of brown.
With chinos yes I agree, some of those shades are great. Milkshake is nice with a darker brown, a nut or tan nice with a mid-brown
Hi Simon, can I ask you something else about shoes? Like some other people I have to wear orthopedic soles whenever I wear shoes. It works fine in shoes from companies like Ecco or Clarks, with removable insoles, but those don’t really look nice. Sneakers usually have removable insoles too, and some are really nice, but are hard to wear at the office. I have not tried to get handmade and specially fitted shoes from a shoemaker, the cost is simply too high.
Do you have any advice for someone in this situation? Thanks! /E
Hi EP,
I’m afraid the answer is no, I don’t. It’s not something I know very much about. If you do find some good solutions though, do let me know as I would like to pass it on to others if people ask in the future.
Thank you
What I do today is to wear shoes from Ecco or similar when a formal shoe is needed. They will pass, others do it.
And I try to extend the use of minimalistic sneakers as much as I can. The sneakers can be a joy to wear, great leather, great shoemaking. (With Ecco etc I just hope others will not notice my shoes, which takes away some joy from the experience.)
Lot’s of black sneakers, which I know you have recommended against, Simon. But I find they will work for me when a white sneaker would look too informal.
Yes it sounds like these are OK options, but you’re having to make a bit of a compromise with both. It would be great if there more of a proper dress shoe that would work.
Hi, sorry for replying late. No dress shoe that I have tried. Even if I size up, there is not enough room in the shoe to fit 1 or 1.5 cm on the height, which my orthopedic sole needs. If anyone knows of a proper dress shoes with a removable insole, I would be most grateful.
Black shoes with brown pants? Simon… no. NO..
The only time I wear black shoes is when I’m wearing black or gray trousers or a gray suit.
Thanks for the strident opinion Michael. Surely with navy too?
With my navy suit, I wear oxblood Chelsea boots, That Horween Color (American) 8 looks delicious. The Horween Tannery is right here in Chicago. I’ve driven past it dozens of times and I never knew what it was.
Sounds nice.
So black with navy is fine, you just don’t wear it
Hi Simon,
who ist the manufacturer of those shoes (assuming they’re RTW) in the last photo?
C&J? Shipton?
Thanks in advance
I don’t know I’m afraid, it’s not my photo
Deep burgundy shades are an American staple and certainly not viewed as colored shoe (or coloured if you prefer) dandy fare here. A common sight is medium to dark grey, navy, khaki, or green trousers worn with the iconic American shoe – the burgundy penny loafer.
A more pressing question in my mind – should you be wearing rich browns in the first place? For many complexions, including.my “soft summer” tone, the answer is a resounding.no.
Perhaps a different in cultures. I can certainly see how that colour of shoe would stand out rather less if it were common.
Wouldn’t you favour a white/ecru toe capped but otherwise black canvas sneaker to an all black affair just to make the distinction clear from dress shoes. I honestly think that sneaker along with all white/ecru would be the only ones I’d favour.
I wouldn’t wear an all-black sneaker in that way, no, and not in leather either. But in a black canvas with white sole it has that differentiation from a dress shoe
Hi Simon, are there any shades of brown trouser you would wear with your Russian reindeer monks? Or does that pair also fall under your assessment of redder shoes?
It does, yes
Hi Simon, slightly off the topic, but I was wondering which colour trousers you would match with EG’s taupe chukka boots? I could only think of mid-blue jeans or cream trousers and not so well with versatile ones such as mid-grey, beige, navy or brown.
Many thanks,
Jack
Yes, it’s not that versatile. I’d say mid-grey might be ok, and perhaps a mid to pale green, but that’s about it
Thanks, Simon.
Do you think Fox classic flannel in mid-grey could work?
It wouldn’t be an obvious pairing, no. I probably wouldn’t wear it. Taupe isn’t really a very versatile colour for anything smart
Hi Simon
What do you think of these loafers from Grenson for pairing with brown chinos/cords and black chinos? Too formal for casual chic? The price seems great
https://www.grenson.com/lloyd-black-loafers-for-men-with-leather-sole
I think they look great.
Of course, the price reflects the quality, as with most English shoemakers – you get what you pay for
Thanks for replying so quickly Simon – wow!
Understood on the quality. In terms of the style – do you think the appearance is more down the “slim” loafer type (like how you use your belgravia/piccadilly) or are these more like the less-slim ivy ones (boston/harvard). I think I need/want more of the former to be honest, just not sure my “eye” is trained to the difference, so appreciate your view
I’d say more of the latter, though I don’t own them and it’s hard to tell with much certainty online
Hi Simon,
Inspired by PS I’m now experimenting with black cords. I find my cordovan dark brown Harvard loafers (again thanks to PS!) seem to work well whereas brown suedes less so. Any idea why this is?
Hmm, not sure actually. I wouldn’t over-analyse it though, just play around and see what you like
I rediscovered an old and loved pair of black wholecuts recently. How formal are wholecuts? Could black wholecuts be a suitable choice for brown flannels and odd jackets?
They’re pretty formal, more than even a normal oxford. See sliding scale here. I wouldn’t say they were a great match unfortunately
Thanks Simon that article is really helpful.
Hi Simon – it looks like your black loafers are the Greenwich not the Belgravia above – is that right? How versatile do you find them? Other than brown trousers and suits, do they get much use? Are they too formal for dark denim for example?
They are too formal for dark denim, yes, but they do get a decent of use with other outfits. I wear color 8 cordovan more though
Very helpful thanks Simon. Is “Nightshade” close to this or too purple?
Too purple for me, personally.
Thanks as ever Simon. Is this the Color 8 you mean, or is it only available for Alden shoes? https://www.edwardgreen.com/shop/shoes/greenwich-horween-cordovan-burgundy-184-last.html
It’s not only available from Alden, but they redye theirs and the colour is nicer I find
What colour shoes with tobacco brown trousers?
Generally a darker brown is best, see here. Although black can also work if there’s high contrast elsehwere, eg a white shirt
Simon, what about dark olive corduroy pants? Do they go better with dark brown or black shoes?
Usually with dark brown I think, though if the colour is dark enough, black can be great too.
Hi Simon, I am considering buying a pair of black loafers as I tend to wear dark brown trousers more often.
Would you say black suede would be more useful than calf leather if I would mostly wear them with fairly casual trousers? Such as with dark brown smart chinos, corduroys and flannels?
Many thanks,
Jack
No I’d still say go with black calf, just make the loafer fairly casual in other respects (rounder, plainer etc)
I see. When you say plainer, do you find penny loafers may work better than tassel loafers for a casual setting?
Yes
Thanks, Simon. If I remember correctly, you mentioned once that you find the penny loafers a bit smarter than tassel loafers. Do you have a different opinion about black shoes?
No, it’s not about them being black. It’s more that a penny loafer can vary quite a lot depending on other aspects of the style. A longer, very finely made one will probably be smarter than a tassel, because it has less going on. But at the same time, a very round, easy loafer will look more casual than a tassel because it’s less fancy probably. Basically, a penny loafer varies hugely depending on other factors, but a tassel is a bit more specific
That’s good to know. Thank you, Simon
What’s your thought on black loafers in cavalry calf? I’ve noticed they look a bit like cordovan but do you think they look artificial?
Yes I do
The first tassels could be the Greenwich of EG in black cordovan? What’s your opinion about the Greenwich in cordovan? Black or burgundy? Thanks, Simon.
Yes they are.
To be honest I should have gone with calf. They look the same, except the cordovan is really tough. Unless you’re doing a lot of walking in the rain, I’d go calf.
Black or Alden Color 8.
Hi Simon, if possible, could you please elaborate on why you should’ve gone with calf? I ask as I’m my currently deciding between the classic Alden tassel loafers in black cordovan or the Anglo-Italian/C&J Studridge in black calf. In terms of appearance, I like both equally, so I’m basically debating whether or not I should go with the cordovan for potentially better durability. Any insights on what you think is best would be much appreciated!
The main reason is I found the cordovan there to be very tough and hard to wear. Cordovan is great if it fits well, but a bastard if it pinches, or is just too tight in some areas.
I don’t think durability will make a big difference, unless you only really have one or two pairs of dress shoes like this
Thanks, I’ll keep that in mind! So, in general, would you say there are no major advantages in choosing black cordovan over black calf?
Strength and weather-resistance are the only ones really. I’d only go for it if weather-resistance were a big factor
Hi Simon, would you wear navy socks with ecru canvas sneakers and dark brown trousers if the coat/jacket was navy?
Many thanks,
Jack
No, I wouldn’t be influenced by the jacket. I’d prefer dark brown, white, or perhaps mid-grey
I see. Could I ask why the mid-grey but not the navy?
Mid-grey is just the most versatile in terms of going with every colour, so it’s a good default with casual clothing
Hi Simon, I have noticed from your recent photos that you wear black loafers in relatively casual materials such as cordovan, and Utah leather as much as dark brown. Did you choose those materials over calf leather as they could look too smart for your outfit? Also, would you pair them only with dark-coloured trousers such as dark brown or charcoal?
Many thanks,
Jack
No, I’d wear them in calf as well – the cordovan looks pretty much the same, especially if you don’t give the calf a high shine, just some cream and a brush.
I would mostly wear them with dark-coloured trousers, yes.
I see, why wouldn’t you wear brighter coloured trousers such as beige or stone? For instance, if you were to wear a dark-drown tailored jacket and beige trousers what colour shoes could go other than dark brown?
I would wear dark brown to be honest, maybe something like Col8 cordovan, but black could be a bit too stark. As ever, take that principle and then think how you think it looks
Hi Simon, would Edward Green’s mink suede loafers work with your Edward Sexton’s W bill linen trousers for a casual setting?
Many thanks,
Jack
They would work nicely together but could be a little smart for a casual setting. Depends a little what you’re wearing on top (knit, denim shirt, smart white dress shirt) and how casual we’re talking. Also they’re a little similar in colour – they can work but I find I usually wear black with those trousers
Simon what are the shoes in the final photo please? Black penny loafers. Thanks
I don’t know I’m afraid, they’re not mine, they’re Michael Hill’s
Hi Simon, I would probably say the dark brown trousers are my favourite. I think they are so versatile as they work with both cold and warm colours on top. The only downside and my long time frustration is always the shoes when I wear warm coloured jackets, such as tan, oatmeal etc, with them, as I can’t wear black leather/suede shoes which I think suit them best.
Which colour would you wear assuming that the dark oak isn’t available in this case?
Many thanks,
Jack
Perhaps color 8 cordovan?
Though I can see the oatmeal maybe working with a white shirt and black shoes?
I see, I own the Color 8 loafers and like them when I wear dark brown trousers for casual looks, but personally, the soles are a bit chunky for me to go with jackets. Do you think plain espresso brown calf would work?
Yes it can – as mentioned in the piece, helps if there’s a little variation in the shoe, like a blacker toe etc
Thanks, Simon.