Latest Post
The craft and range of Begg blankets
December 4th 2023Textiles is a very complimentary area to the tailoring we cover on PS, given the time readers spend poring over swatches and discussing weaves. But, the most readily consumable version of this is blankets, which we haven...
The craft and range of Begg blankets
Textiles is a very complimentary area to the tailoring we cover on PS, given the time readers spend poring over swatches and discussing weaves. But, the most readily consumable version of this is blankets, which we haven...
Latest Posts
The weekend gilet or vest
December 1st 2023As colder weather has arrived recently, there have been a few questions from readers about gilets or vests. It’s not a category we’ve covered in much detail, so Alex and I took a bunch to the studio last week...
The weekend gilet or vest
As colder weather has arrived recently, there have been a few questions from readers about gilets or vests. It’s not a category we’ve covered in much detail, so Alex and I took a bunch to the studio last week...
Manish’s five bespoke lessons: Working with a tailor
November 29th 2023By Manish Puri I’ve been commissioning made-to-measure and bespoke garments for six years. In any other sphere, that amount of experience might qualify me as an expert. So, it’s telling about the nature of b...
Manish’s five bespoke lessons: Working with a tailor
By Manish Puri I’ve been commissioning made-to-measure and bespoke garments for six years. In any other sphere, that amount of experience might qualify me as an expert. So, it’s telling about the nature of b...
Wythe: Tasteful and accessible Americana
November 27th 2023Peter Middleton is an affable Texan with a real passion for fabrics. We talked previously for a PS piece on Navajo rugs , and also for an article about the design side of Ralph Lauren , where Peter (above, right) worked ...
Wythe: Tasteful and accessible Americana
Peter Middleton is an affable Texan with a real passion for fabrics. We talked previously for a PS piece on Navajo rugs , and also for an article about the design side of Ralph Lauren , where Peter (above, right) worked ...
Reader profile: Sebastian
November 24th 2023Sebastian has an interesting story - a clothing story with distinct phases. He’s a long-term reader (just over 10 years) and has worn many different styles, many different brands. But he's another PS reader in esse...
Reader profile: Sebastian
Sebastian has an interesting story - a clothing story with distinct phases. He’s a long-term reader (just over 10 years) and has worn many different styles, many different brands. But he's another PS reader in esse...
Roberto Ugolini bespoke boots: Review
November 22nd 2023I recently had these boots made bespoke by Roberto Ugolini in Florence, and they have turned out very well. I have two reflections about bespoke shoes off the back of them. One is that I am increasingly specific about wh...
Roberto Ugolini bespoke boots: Review
I recently had these boots made bespoke by Roberto Ugolini in Florence, and they have turned out very well. I have two reflections about bespoke shoes off the back of them. One is that I am increasingly specific about wh...
The Bureau, Belfast: Big brand mix and exclusive styles
November 20th 2023By Manish Puri If you leave Belfast city centre and head east, past Nuala with the Hula, across the Lagan, and along the Newtonards Road, eventually, in the shadows of Samson and Goliath (the monumental gantry cranes tha...
The Bureau, Belfast: Big brand mix and exclusive styles
By Manish Puri If you leave Belfast city centre and head east, past Nuala with the Hula, across the Lagan, and along the Newtonards Road, eventually, in the shadows of Samson and Goliath (the monumental gantry cranes tha...
The importance of visiting your makers (repeatedly)
November 17th 2023Readers have asked in the past what it’s like developing new clothing, what helps and hinders, what the challenges are. One piece of advice a friend gave me a while ago was to visit the factory more than you think ...
The importance of visiting your makers (repeatedly)
Readers have asked in the past what it’s like developing new clothing, what helps and hinders, what the challenges are. One piece of advice a friend gave me a while ago was to visit the factory more than you think ...
Dress like a Parisian woman
November 15th 2023Among the many pocket-sized books on women’s style, dressing like a Parisian is a popular category. Many, it seems, find the idea of the Parisian woman who dresses fashionably but not fussily, in a way that is simp...
Dress like a Parisian woman
Among the many pocket-sized books on women’s style, dressing like a Parisian is a popular category. Many, it seems, find the idea of the Parisian woman who dresses fashionably but not fussily, in a way that is simp...
Swedish craft: Svenskt Tenn and Märta Måås Fjetterström
November 13th 2023By Dag Granath Something that’s true for most – if not all – companies covered by Permanent Style is that they aspire to create something that stands the test of time. Two of my favourite Swedish compa...
Swedish craft: Svenskt Tenn and Märta Måås Fjetterström
By Dag Granath Something that’s true for most – if not all – companies covered by Permanent Style is that they aspire to create something that stands the test of time. Two of my favourite Swedish compa...
Casual suits with collared knits: A new default
November 10th 2023I like wearing suits. Not only do I have a lot that I like wearing, but I continue to commission them – not as much as sports jackets, certainly, but consistently. It can be an issue knowing how to wear them withou...
Casual suits with collared knits: A new default
I like wearing suits. Not only do I have a lot that I like wearing, but I continue to commission them – not as much as sports jackets, certainly, but consistently. It can be an issue knowing how to wear them withou...
Latest Posts Continued
Stolen valour: Issues with wearing military clothing
November 8th 2023There is a concept American readers will be most familiar with, and which often surrounds vintage and reproduction military clothing, known as ‘stolen valour’. It describes how wearing military clothing as a...
Stolen valour: Issues with wearing military clothing
There is a concept American readers will be most familiar with, and which often surrounds vintage and reproduction military clothing, known as ‘stolen valour’. It describes how wearing military clothing as a...
Berlin: A menswear shopping guide
November 6th 2023By J Patrick Truhn, with contributions from Maximillian Mogg and The Heritage Post. ‘Berlin’ and ‘sartorial’ are not words one is accustomed to seeing in the same sentence. This “poor, but ...
Berlin: A menswear shopping guide
By J Patrick Truhn, with contributions from Maximillian Mogg and The Heritage Post. ‘Berlin’ and ‘sartorial’ are not words one is accustomed to seeing in the same sentence. This “poor, but ...
Wythe, Bally, P Johnson: A/W 2023 highlights
November 3rd 2023Some old, some new in this year’s round-up of Autumn/Winter products. These articles are a nice way to mention brands on the edge of our radar (Bally) as well as to discuss new releases from favourites that wouldn&...
Wythe, Bally, P Johnson: A/W 2023 highlights
Some old, some new in this year’s round-up of Autumn/Winter products. These articles are a nice way to mention brands on the edge of our radar (Bally) as well as to discuss new releases from favourites that wouldn&...
Introducing: The English Tweed overcoat
November 1st 2023“Oh, that is cosy.” “It's like being wrapped up in a big tweedy blanket.” “I could fall asleep in the corner like this.” I’ve never done a pop-up where I had the sample of a new ...
Introducing: The English Tweed overcoat
“Oh, that is cosy.” “It's like being wrapped up in a big tweedy blanket.” “I could fall asleep in the corner like this.” I’ve never done a pop-up where I had the sample of a new ...
Come to our last talk of the year, with Anda Rowland
October 30th 2023Our next talk at Mortimer House will be in a couple of weeks, on Friday November 17th. And this time we're interviewing Anda Rowland of Anderson & Sheppard on what the future holds for Savile Row. Anda has been invol...
Come to our last talk of the year, with Anda Rowland
Our next talk at Mortimer House will be in a couple of weeks, on Friday November 17th. And this time we're interviewing Anda Rowland of Anderson & Sheppard on what the future holds for Savile Row. Anda has been invol...
Dressed-up New Yorkers: The view from the pop-up
October 27th 2023Our New York pop-up (now in its second year) brings in an interesting range of people - more, perhaps, than London. There’s Guy, who came last time too, an old-school New Yorker in bespoke, red socks and Warren Ed...
Dressed-up New Yorkers: The view from the pop-up
Our New York pop-up (now in its second year) brings in an interesting range of people - more, perhaps, than London. There’s Guy, who came last time too, an old-school New Yorker in bespoke, red socks and Warren Ed...
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Latest Posts Continued
How menswear design works, with Luke Walker
October 25th 2023The main reason I wanted to bring designer Luke Walker onto our series of talks was his experience working at both fashion brands (Lanvin, McQueen) and classic menswear (Dunhill, Drake’s). I love what he does at h...
How menswear design works, with Luke Walker
The main reason I wanted to bring designer Luke Walker onto our series of talks was his experience working at both fashion brands (Lanvin, McQueen) and classic menswear (Dunhill, Drake’s). I love what he does at h...
Rolling shirt sleeves
October 23rd 2023An area we rarely talk about in menswear is how we wear clothes, rather than which ones we choose. Buttoning shirts, wearing collars up, belting trench coats and so on. I know, it’s classic overthinking. No one nee...
Rolling shirt sleeves
An area we rarely talk about in menswear is how we wear clothes, rather than which ones we choose. Buttoning shirts, wearing collars up, belting trench coats and so on. I know, it’s classic overthinking. No one nee...
Coherence: What you can actually buy now
October 20th 2023When I walk around Pitti each season, interviewing makers and researching articles, it can be easy to feel lost in a flood of Italian cashmere and trainers that look like each other. For that reason there are a handful ...
Coherence: What you can actually buy now
When I walk around Pitti each season, interviewing makers and researching articles, it can be easy to feel lost in a flood of Italian cashmere and trainers that look like each other. For that reason there are a handful ...
Frieze art fair: How the rich collector dresses
October 18th 2023Frieze, the contemporary art fair in London, makes for great people watching. The art world brings in such a broad spectrum of types, of tribes. Although from a clothing point of view there always seems to be one consist...
Frieze art fair: How the rich collector dresses
Frieze, the contemporary art fair in London, makes for great people watching. The art world brings in such a broad spectrum of types, of tribes. Although from a clothing point of view there always seems to be one consist...
Three things that didn't quite work
October 16th 2023We probably spend a little too much time talking about how great products are on PS (even though we're more critical than most) and not enough talking about ones that didn't work out. Here's a summary of three I've tried...
Three things that didn't quite work
We probably spend a little too much time talking about how great products are on PS (even though we're more critical than most) and not enough talking about ones that didn't work out. Here's a summary of three I've tried...
Introducing: The grey cashmere crewneck
October 13th 2023There is a knit that I’ve always worn under everything. It’s what I wear under a tailored jacket, like the Anthology grey herringbone , but also what I wear under casual clothing like my Connolly tobacco sued...
Introducing: The grey cashmere crewneck
There is a knit that I’ve always worn under everything. It’s what I wear under a tailored jacket, like the Anthology grey herringbone , but also what I wear under casual clothing like my Connolly tobacco sued...
The appeal of Solaro: Suit from Cristina Dalcuore
October 11th 2023Solaro has always been one of those materials I’ve found intriguing but never took the leap on, simply because I was too unsure how much I’d like such an unusual, and in some ways showy material. For those t...
The appeal of Solaro: Suit from Cristina Dalcuore
Solaro has always been one of those materials I’ve found intriguing but never took the leap on, simply because I was too unsure how much I’d like such an unusual, and in some ways showy material. For those t...
Is there still such a thing as an ‘investment piece’?
October 9th 2023This is one of the many great questions people submitted in response to the ‘ You are the interviewer ’ post a couple of weeks ago. In fact, it brought together a few of the questions, as many of the good one...
Is there still such a thing as an ‘investment piece’?
This is one of the many great questions people submitted in response to the ‘ You are the interviewer ’ post a couple of weeks ago. In fact, it brought together a few of the questions, as many of the good one...
Visiting Bel y Cia in Barcelona, home of the Teba
October 6th 2023By Manish Puri Bel y Cia opened in 1842 as a camiseria (shirt maker) on Passatge de Bacardí – a narrow walkway that connects Barcelona’s Las Rambla to Plaça Reial. Following the demolition of th...
Visiting Bel y Cia in Barcelona, home of the Teba
By Manish Puri Bel y Cia opened in 1842 as a camiseria (shirt maker) on Passatge de Bacardí – a narrow walkway that connects Barcelona’s Las Rambla to Plaça Reial. Following the demolition of th...
Introducing: The Rider’s Raincoat
October 4th 2023About eight months ago we made the decision to discontinue our trench coat in favour of something simpler and subtler. A few conversations with friends had brought up the issue, repeatedly, of not being able to find a re...
Introducing: The Rider’s Raincoat
About eight months ago we made the decision to discontinue our trench coat in favour of something simpler and subtler. A few conversations with friends had brought up the issue, repeatedly, of not being able to find a re...
Denim
Wythe, Bally, P Johnson: A/W 2023 highlights
November 3rd 2023Some old, some new in this year’s round-up of Autumn/Winter products. These articles are a nice way to mention brands on the edge of our radar (Bally) as well as to discuss new releases from favourites that wouldn&...
Wythe, Bally, P Johnson: A/W 2023 highlights
Some old, some new in this year’s round-up of Autumn/Winter products. These articles are a nice way to mention brands on the edge of our radar (Bally) as well as to discuss new releases from favourites that wouldn&...
Heavy, slubby, transitional linen jacket from Ciardi
September 27th 2023This jacket was made using fabric from the interiors house de Le Cuona . A previous one - in a beautiful but rather adventurous orange - was covered here last year . It’s the ‘Primitive’ quality of the...
Heavy, slubby, transitional linen jacket from Ciardi
This jacket was made using fabric from the interiors house de Le Cuona . A previous one - in a beautiful but rather adventurous orange - was covered here last year . It’s the ‘Primitive’ quality of the...
Buying second-hand US-made Levi’s
August 25th 2023Getting good mid-blue jeans can be tricky, given the prevalence of raw denim among most high-end makers we cover. Several do offer washes - like Orslow and Full Count - but the range and therefore the choice is usually l...
Buying second-hand US-made Levi’s
Getting good mid-blue jeans can be tricky, given the prevalence of raw denim among most high-end makers we cover. Several do offer washes - like Orslow and Full Count - but the range and therefore the choice is usually l...
Reader Qs
Video chat: How to build a wardrobe from scratch
June 26th 2020This is the third in our series of reader-question videos, with the subject this time being wardrobe building. Specifically: “I am building up a wardrobe from scratch. What do I buy first, and how much should I sp...
Video chat: How to build a wardrobe from scratch
This is the third in our series of reader-question videos, with the subject this time being wardrobe building. Specifically: “I am building up a wardrobe from scratch. What do I buy first, and how much should I sp...
Video chat: Going to a maker for the first time
May 25th 2020I’m not sure we really answered the question in this chat. The idea of each of these videos is to take a frequently asked reader question, and then tackle it from every angle. Here the question was: ‘I&rsquo...
Video chat: Going to a maker for the first time
I’m not sure we really answered the question in this chat. The idea of each of these videos is to take a frequently asked reader question, and then tackle it from every angle. Here the question was: ‘I&rsquo...
Clothing Resources: Places to clean, alter and repair
September 5th 2018One of the most frequent questions I get asked on the site is where I would recommend for getting suits altered - or knitwear repaired, or shoes resoled. I’ve been meaning to create a single page with all these rec...
Clothing Resources: Places to clean, alter and repair
One of the most frequent questions I get asked on the site is where I would recommend for getting suits altered - or knitwear repaired, or shoes resoled. I’ve been meaning to create a single page with all these rec...
Factory Visits
How cordovan is made, at Horween tannery, Chicago
December 6th 2019Why should you care about a factory visit? Why care what the place is like where something is made - compared to say, the quality of it or how to wear it? Does it matter whether the place is clean or dirty, old or new?...
How cordovan is made, at Horween tannery, Chicago
Why should you care about a factory visit? Why care what the place is like where something is made - compared to say, the quality of it or how to wear it? Does it matter whether the place is clean or dirty, old or new?...
Yves Salomon: re-using, remodelling fur
January 18th 2019Following our discussion before Christmas about waste in the clothing industry, I was interested to learn about the remodelling and re-use of fur at Yves Salomon. Yves Salomon is one of the best fur workshops in the worl...
Yves Salomon: re-using, remodelling fur
Following our discussion before Christmas about waste in the clothing industry, I was interested to learn about the remodelling and re-use of fur at Yves Salomon. Yves Salomon is one of the best fur workshops in the worl...
Frank Clegg, Fall River: Factory visit
January 2nd 2019It’s not hard to spot an old mill town. Mills were large buildings and needed lots of light. In Britain, this often came in through so-called sawtooth roofs: a zig-zag shape that allowed windows to be placed in the...
Frank Clegg, Fall River: Factory visit
It’s not hard to spot an old mill town. Mills were large buildings and needed lots of light. In Britain, this often came in through so-called sawtooth roofs: a zig-zag shape that allowed windows to be placed in the...
Active Threads
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Absolutely! i) No I wouldn't, because these are too workwear. And I don't do it in any chinos actually. They would look fine in something like Rubato, but it's so unusual in a chino these days that i think it would look either old-fashioned or…
The Real McCoy’s chinos: Review
Read the commentsI don't know any in that colour I'm afraid John, that's why I like them so much!
Mohair cardigans and Rubato chinos
Read the commentsHey Anthony, Happy to help but looking at the video again I don't think I do mention a tailor at that time stamp? The jacket I'm talking about was made by Eduardo de Simone, but tailors like Ciardi and Zizolfi do it less too, and…
Naples: A sartorial shopping guide
Read the commentsI split my time between Ukraine and England and have done so fairly consistently for the past 6 years or so, including the winters which can be as low as -30 but usually are somewhere between -10 and -20 at their coldest weeks. All my…
The weekend gilet or vest
Read the commentsI haven't, no, it's done very well. The brown will probably be more versatile, but it's mostly a question of what you wear it with, your style
New black bullskin tote, and angled DBs
Read the commentsIt's highly unlikely you'll find the exact fabric Adam - 90% of Ralph fabrics are custom, which is one thing that sets them apart. I'd say a linen mix yes, but you'll have to hunt through bunches for the most similar thing.
A guide to wool/silk/linen: Mixes, colours, bunches
Read the comments