As mentioned in our post on Marco Cerrato last week, much of the sartorial industry in Naples occurs outside the city - in the suburbs and towns of the surrounding area.Much of this is in the north-east, just above Mount Vesuvius, the still-active v...

This is the final shirt from Neapolitan maker D’Avino. It is, as I expected, absolutely beautifully made, and a very good fit for the first order. Neapolitan shirtmakers vary both by their price and their priorities. The shirtmaker I have used mos...

One of the new makers I met in Naples last month was D’Avino, a small shirtmaker run by Fiorenzo Auricchio (above). Fiorenzo trained as a boy under his father, who worked for Gino Borelli – so a pretty decent education – and then set up his own...

 D'Avino is a small Neapolitan outfit run by cutter Fiorenzo Auricchio (above). He has no website, an abandoned blog, and little used social media. Email is the best contact option.But he visits London regularly, usually twice a year at least, and f...

I recently took delivery of a set of linen shirts from D'Avino in Naples (it's been a good quarter...) and I thought the colour selection I ended up with was interesting.  I'm increasingly moving away from the more corporate colours of white and li...

The exquisite shirtmaker D'Avino (that's the brand name, the man being Fiorenzo Auricchio) is here in London for a rare visit in two weeks. D'Avino makes to the highest level you will see, with handwork absolutely everywhere - not just the practical...

A reader asked what I was wearing at the dinner of Parisian Gentlemen last week. Fortunately, a profile photo was taken that day at the intellectual property conference I was speaking at - the reason I was in Paris in the first place.  In the pictu...

Naples has the biggest concentration of high-end handmade menswear in the world. Although not so much for shoes, for tailoring and shirtmaking this is the motherlode, with hundreds of tailors in the city and surrounding region, and thousands workin...

Three years ago, I wrote a post called ‘The tailors I have known'. The idea was to provide a single reference point for anyone to get a run down on everyone I had tried - and links to more detail.  A reader recently commented that it would be nice...

The next stage in our Guide to Shirts - after the recent pieces on collars and cuffs - is to compare different approaches brands take to the styles of their shirts.  There are a few different aspects of this, including: the cut (wide, slim; s...

 Zampa di Gallina ('chicken feet') is a menswear site set up recently specialising in Neapolitan makers. At least one of them has a connection to Naples, so it's nice to have slightly more local retail, particularly for those of us buying in Europ...

 Last month we had a book launch at the Brio menswear store in Beijing. It's worth running through a few more details of the shop - because the stock is interesting, and because it is part of a pleasing trend in more specialist tailoring and craft...

This great coat from Edward Sexton is probably the most unusual model in this series, which has been looking at the styles of my various bespoke coats, in particular how they are cut and made. Sexton coats tend to have a bit of drama to them anyway,...

  This pale, oatmeal-coloured cashmere is my new favourite sports-jacket material.When men are picking colours for sports jackets, their second choice (after the obviousness of navy) is usually grey. Which can be great, in: a rougher, preppy herrin...

Back in April I wrote my first post on shirtmaker 100 Hands, having visited their factory in Amritsar, India. I argued that the important point to address first was that making in India involves no necessary compromise on labour conditions, skill or...

A style post today, after several product and profile pieces in recent weeks. To break it down into bullets:I love grey shirts, primarily with navy suits or jackets as an alternative to white and blue. It feels urban and modernThe problem is, with a...

It’s been a while since we’ve included anyone in this series – which began with Bruce Boyer and Alan See – for which I apologise. The next to be included is George Wang, owner of the BRIO store in Beijing, China. George is a good friend ...

Finding new colour combinations I like makes me disproportionately happy. I know this doesn’t apply to every menswear enthusiast, but for me the interrelationship of colours is one of the most enjoyable and creative aspects of dress. Particul...

*Update: Although a couple of sizes have sold out, several customers have bought two jackets in order to compare sizes, and will be returning one. So if your size is sold out, do email [email protected] to receive an alert when it comes back...

  A cream jacket is more useful than you might think.  Certainly, I've found myself using this one from Jean-Manuel Moreau more than I expected since I received it earlier in the year.   This post describes, and illustrates, three ...

  At our book launch in Stockholm last week, Konrad Olsson (above) – editor of Plaza Uomo magazine – asked some rather stimulating questions.Such as, what is quality? Well, for me quality (in clothing) is aspects of manufacture that lead to p...

I know shirtmaker Simone Abbarchi has a lot of PS customers in London and New York. They might like to know - and see - where their shirts are made.  It’s a little workshop about 10 minutes drive outside of Florence. Simone arrives every morning a...

This ulster-style overcoat was made for me by Sartoria Ciardi, the Neapolitan tailor, in 2020. Although I’ve had a few pieces of tailoring from Ciardi in the past five years, this is my only coat from them.  It has proved to be one of my favour...

My shirt collars over the years have generally been one of two styles: spread or button-down. Both can work with or without a tie (and have been tweaked consistently to make that easier) but I generally prefer the spread with a tie, the button-down ...

In the past year there has been a lot of promotion and discussion of Italian shirt manufacturer Marol - since it was bought into by commodities trader and menswear enthusiast Bo Yang. Next month, readers in London will get a chance to see them in p...