Why I love my Ferdinando Caraceni blazer
This jacket from Ferdinando Caraceni has become one of my real favourites in the past couple of years, and I think it’s worth exploring why. It says something about where tailoring is today, at least for me. It was made in 2021 by Nicoletta C...
Why I love my Ferdinando Caraceni blazer
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Hi Wu, Nice to hear, thank you. To be honest, a blazer like that is not something I've ever looked into having made, as it's not a style I like so much - perhaps a little too costume-y. If you have specific questions, do...
Introducing: The New Friday Polo
The Friday Polo was one of the first proper products we ever developed on Permanent Style and has gone through several iterations - spread collar, button-down, lightweight and heavy, short sleeve and long. But in the eight years since it launched, ...
Introducing: The New Friday Polo
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If it looks natural, it can be nice and relaxed. If you like that type of look, also try tucking the shirt in but lifting up your arms to let it untuck as much as it needs to, and just not worrying if it gets untucked du...
Reader profile: Ben C
I’ve known Ben for a long time now. He worked round the corner from me during my journalism days, and we were both customers of visiting artisans like Elia Caliendo and Simone Abbarchi. We even did a shoot together for Elia years ago. Ben and ...
Reader profile: Ben C
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Love the semi-casual....
The jackets I picked for winter
A couple of weeks ago, when our little Indian summer here in the UK came to an end, I started the process of switching my wardrobe around for colder weather. I keep winter sweaters, roll necks, coats and heavy tweeds stored in the attic, and slowly...
The jackets I picked for winter
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I had my colours done years ago, but to be honest I can't remember. As we discussed here, I'm not sure it's that useful On picking five, have you seen the articles on that subject in the Wardrobe Building guide?...
How to wear a cream jacket
A cream jacket is more useful than you might think. Certainly, I’ve found myself using this one from Jean-Manuel Moreau more than I expected since I received it earlier in the year. This post describes, and illustrates, three ways I&am...
How to wear a cream jacket
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Ha! Fingers crossed. Mid-grey definitely...
Summer smart/casual: Three looks, three levels of...
Last week I explained why I find the knit polo shirt to be such a fundamental part of my summer wardrobe. This week, I’m using that polo and a pair of cream linen trousers as the basis for three different looks – three dif...
Summer smart/casual: Three looks, three levels of...
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Yes they're certainly a nice option - I find them a little heavy with the stitching on the front, and the seams running under the rubber at the front. But it's a minor thing. They're all made in the same factory, that's ...
Which sports-jacket office are you?
One of the most popular posts we’ve ever written on Permanent Style was ‘Which office are you?’, back in February 2016. It showed a spectrum of outfits from T-shirt and jeans, through knitwear and flannels, up to a jacket and tie -...
Which sports-jacket office are you?
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Yes that can be an issue. Look at Italian jacketings in particular, around 11-13oz if there are some. And go for a subtle pattern in the weave like a herringbone...
Two reader stories: Starting and building a wardrobe
In recent years I’ve done an increasing amount of personal consultancy, meeting readers in person to answer their questions rather than just here on the website. I don’t really advertise it because I don’t have much capac...
Two reader stories: Starting and building a wardrobe
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I would be confident enough to trust in Luca making a more formal shirt suitable for a bow tie. What attracts me to Luca is that there are no minimum number of shirts for a first bespoke commission with him. T&A, if ...
Introducing: The PS Bridge Coat
* For updates and stock please see the shop page* Of all the things I’ve developed or helped develop over the past few years, the PS Trench Coat was one of the most satisfying. That was partly because it seemed to fill a particular ...
Introducing: The PS Bridge Coat
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Have you ever pressed/ironed them? All smart trousers need that, and often cord more than others, as they do tend to bag out at the knee...
The summer tie
I don’t tend to wear brightly coloured ties. Too often they’re brash and loud, where a dark simple tie would be more tasteful. The only time I’ve regularly worn them is in unusual colours like lime green, rather than primary red...
The summer tie
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This might seem hilarious, but on grounds of comfort, I’ve actually worn a bow tie to a fine restaurant in Belgium which was way more comfortable. 1. Less weight… I sometimes notice that a tie can be like a heavy wei...
Hopsack and linen trousers – in humid Hong ...
It was really lovely being back in Hong Kong last week, after a few years away. The talk we Lorenzo Cifonelli and I did at Attire House worked well - more a conversation than an interview, with Lorenzo asking me questions about other tailors, and th...
Hopsack and linen trousers – in humid Hong ...
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I think that can be fine - the danger comes more when the linens are pretty similar in texture and weight...
Friday Polos back in stock – with new Olive
The much-loved Friday Polos, which I design and produce with shirtmaker Luca Avitabile in Naples, are back in stock . Thank you to everyone that has been waiting so patiently. As per usual, we have produced them in four colours. However, as I know t...
Friday Polos back in stock – with new Olive
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Yes we have had occasionally had this, though more usually on those that wear it quite tight across the chest. The looseness and softness of the fabric is the main cause, but we are making the buttonholes slightly smalle...
Monochrome and concrete: Styling grey, charcoal a...
Although I love rich, natural colours (particularly in Autumn) I've always been fascinated by the subtleties of monochrome dressing. It has such strong style, and yet there is so little too it. It's striking and unusual, and yet quiet. These photo...
Monochrome and concrete: Styling grey, charcoal a...
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No worries Daniel. Dark-brown suede could be fine - rather like black jeans, when they're faded and have enough of that casual vibe as your charcoal linen sounds like it has, they work well. Also, I'd encourage you to co...
Bespoke commissions – What I should and sho...
Thank you everyone that responded to my ‘You are the interviewer’ post a couple of weeks ago. The number of variety of questions was staggering, and I will try to answer as many as I can over the coming weeks. It may take time, but I wou...
Bespoke commissions – What I should and sho...
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I don't know the exact history, but I think it came from English tweed jackets which themselves were derived from those made for riding...
How to dress for very hot weather
As mentioned on my ‘What I pack’ post, I’ve been travelling a lot in high heat recently. There was Pitti in Florence, where the temperature topped out at 37 degrees. Naples in July was very similar. And Puglia at the end ...
How to dress for very hot weather
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It certainly is Shem, yes, just a little harder on style and elegance. It's hard to go into all things here, but I think it becomes very much about the cut of those other pieces. Eg you want to avoid both top and bottom ...
The guide to summer jacket cloths
In some ways, summer trousers are more challenging than jackets in terms of cloth, and therefore more interesting. Trousers present the challenge of having something cool, but with enough body or crispness to hang straight. Jackets are les...
The guide to summer jacket cloths
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It's really hard to say on both counts I'm afraid Jack. The colour is hard to get a read on, and no I haven't had anything made up in a fabric like that...
Pale summer colours (in vintage linen)
This is a nice exercise in combining summery, pale colours. The challenge is being light and pale overall, while retaining enough contrast between shirt, jacket and trousers - both in colour and texture. The starting point is the jacket, made for m...
Pale summer colours (in vintage linen)
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thank you, much appreciated!...
Naples: A sartorial shopping guide
Naples has the biggest concentration of high-end handmade menswear in the world. Although not so much for shoes, for tailoring and shirtmaking this is the motherlode, with hundreds of tailors in the city and surrounding region, and thousands working ...
Naples: A sartorial shopping guide
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Probably not, but worth asking the maker if they can perhaps prepare a fitting for you in that time, so you can be fitted and have the finished shirt sent to you...
Building a wardrobe: Neapolitan tailoring
In recent months a few readers have asked for a breakdown of how I built my wardrobe - my plans, my process and my lessons learned. Doing so across all types of garment and even styles would produce a very long, unwieldy piece, so I thought I would ...
Building a wardrobe: Neapolitan tailoring
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My quintessential piece of advice for anyone considering going to a Neapolitan tailor is: make sure you are going to a Neapolitan tailor because you like the style and not because it is cheaper than Savile Row. If you go...
Staples for a hot climate – Reader question
Dear Simon, I recently read your 2014 article, ' The staples of a good wardrobe' and was wondering how you would modify it for warmer climes like Hong Kong and Singapore? Grey flannel isn’t a great option for most of the year here, cashmere i...
Staples for a hot climate – Reader question
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I live in a tropical climate and wear a lot of wool-silk-linen. There is some variety in it with options such as the Caccioppoli 240gsm plain weave wool-silk-linen options wearing very cool indeed and also feeling light ...
Cover story in Plaza Uomo
These things always seem to come in bunches. First Esquire named me in a top 10 and now Plaza Uomo have published their latest edition, with a profile of me as the cover story. Plaza is a Swedish fashion magazine, and Plaza Uomo has an English ver...
Cover story in Plaza Uomo
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Hi Neil, Has your copy come through yet?...
Esquire names me one of the 10 most influential o...
I have been included in a list of the Top 10 most influential men in fashion by Esquire. Which is nice. You can read the full article and a short interview here. I dislike the term 'influencer' - frankly if that's how you define yourself, there ca...
Esquire names me one of the 10 most influential o...
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Easily remedied situation … take off the socks and show bare ankles!...
The cap
If styled right, a cap is a wonderfully useful accessory. Not as formal as a fedora, yet not as casual as a beanie, it can bridge a greater range of outfits than any other hat. When the temperature is in single figures, and your lack of hair makes a...
The cap
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No worries Jay, no post is ever too old! It depends a bit on what else you wear, but I guess a dark-grey or mid-grey herringbone perhaps? Something with a little pattern but not too much, in a conservative colour, and pr...
Five double-breasted styles compared
Last month we talked about how small changes in the proportions of a double-breasted jacket can have a radical effect on its style - and therefore on the people or situations it suits. This week I've used five of my own jackets to demonstrate these...
Five double-breasted styles compared
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Yes they are. If you want to see how the measurements are taken, see the Style Breakdown intro article...
Chinos, loafers and a sports jacket (or sweater)
Those on the Drake’s mailing list may have seen this outfit on Friday, accompanying an article on their new trouser range. To fill in the details: the olive Drake’s chinos were worn with a white lightweight pique-cotton shirt made by Luc...
Chinos, loafers and a sports jacket (or sweater)
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Cheers Andrew! I can't say I have though on exactly that shade of Olive. The Anglo Italian ones are pretty close...
