Bespoke commissions – What I should and shoul...

September 20th 2017

Thank you everyone that responded to my ‘You are the interviewer’ post a couple of weeks ago. The number of variety of questions was staggering, and I will try to answer as many as I can over the coming week...

Bespoke commissions – What I should and shoul...

Thank you everyone that responded to my ‘You are the interviewer’ post a couple of weeks ago. The number of variety of questions was staggering, and I will try to answer as many as I can over the coming week...

Black tie - JacketsSeptember 20th 2017

How to dress for very hot weather

August 16th 2017

As mentioned on my ‘What I pack’ post, I’ve been travelling a lot in high heat recently. There was Pitti in Florence, where the temperature topped out at 37 degrees. Naples in July was very similar. An...

How to dress for very hot weather

As mentioned on my ‘What I pack’ post, I’ve been travelling a lot in high heat recently. There was Pitti in Florence, where the temperature topped out at 37 degrees. Naples in July was very similar. An...

Jackets - LoaferAugust 16th 2017

The guide to summer jacket cloths

July 24th 2017

  In some ways, summer trousers are more challenging than jackets in terms of cloth, and therefore more interesting. Trousers present the challenge of having something cool, but with enough body or crispness to hang...

The guide to summer jacket cloths

  In some ways, summer trousers are more challenging than jackets in terms of cloth, and therefore more interesting. Trousers present the challenge of having something cool, but with enough body or crispness to hang...

Cloth - TailoringJuly 24th 2017

Pale summer colours (in vintage linen)

July 17th 2017

This is a nice exercise in combining summery, pale colours. The challenge is being light and pale overall, while retaining enough contrast between shirt, jacket and trousers - both in colour and texture. The starting p...

Pale summer colours (in vintage linen)

This is a nice exercise in combining summery, pale colours. The challenge is being light and pale overall, while retaining enough contrast between shirt, jacket and trousers - both in colour and texture. The starting p...

Accessories - HatsJuly 17th 2017

Naples: A sartorial shopping guide

July 12th 2017

Naples has the biggest concentration of high-end handmade menswear in the world. Although not so much for shoes, for tailoring and shirtmaking this is the motherlode, with hundreds of tailors in the city and surrounding...

Naples: A sartorial shopping guide

Naples has the biggest concentration of high-end handmade menswear in the world. Although not so much for shoes, for tailoring and shirtmaking this is the motherlode, with hundreds of tailors in the city and surrounding...

July 12th 2017

Building a wardrobe: Neapolitan tailoring

January 6th 2017

In recent months a few readers have asked for a breakdown of how I built my wardrobe - my plans, my process and my lessons learned. Doing so across all types of garment and even styles would produce a very long, unwield...

Building a wardrobe: Neapolitan tailoring

In recent months a few readers have asked for a breakdown of how I built my wardrobe - my plans, my process and my lessons learned. Doing so across all types of garment and even styles would produce a very long, unwield...

Finding a tailor - TailoringJanuary 6th 2017

Staples for a hot climate – Reader question

December 28th 2016

Dear Simon, I recently read your 2014 article, ' The staples of a good wardrobe' and was wondering how you would modify it for warmer climes like Hong Kong and Singapore? Grey flannel isn’t a great option for mos...

Staples for a hot climate – Reader question

Dear Simon, I recently read your 2014 article, ' The staples of a good wardrobe' and was wondering how you would modify it for warmer climes like Hong Kong and Singapore? Grey flannel isn’t a great option for mos...

Style - TailoringDecember 28th 2016

Cover story in Plaza Uomo

December 16th 2016

These things always seem to come in bunches. First Esquire named me in a top 10 and now Plaza Uomo have published their latest edition, with a profile of me as the cover story. Plaza is a Swedish fashion magazine, and...

Cover story in Plaza Uomo

These things always seem to come in bunches. First Esquire named me in a top 10 and now Plaza Uomo have published their latest edition, with a profile of me as the cover story. Plaza is a Swedish fashion magazine, and...

Accessories - HatsDecember 16th 2016

Esquire names me one of the 10 most influential of ...

December 6th 2016

I have been included in a list of the Top 10 most influential men in fashion by Esquire. Which is nice. You can read the full article and a short interview here. I dislike the term 'influencer' - frankly if that's how...

Esquire names me one of the 10 most influential of ...

I have been included in a list of the Top 10 most influential men in fashion by Esquire. Which is nice. You can read the full article and a short interview here. I dislike the term 'influencer' - frankly if that's how...

StyleDecember 6th 2016

The cap

November 30th 2016

If styled right, a cap is a wonderfully useful accessory. Not as formal as a fedora, yet not as casual as a beanie, it can bridge a greater range of outfits than any other hat. When the temperature is in single figures,...

The cap

If styled right, a cap is a wonderfully useful accessory. Not as formal as a fedora, yet not as casual as a beanie, it can bridge a greater range of outfits than any other hat. When the temperature is in single figures,...

Accessories - HatsNovember 30th 2016

Five double-breasted styles compared

September 1st 2016

Last month we talked about how small changes in the proportions of a double-breasted jacket can have a radical effect on its style - and therefore on the people or situations it suits. This week I've used five of my ow...

Five double-breasted styles compared

Last month we talked about how small changes in the proportions of a double-breasted jacket can have a radical effect on its style - and therefore on the people or situations it suits. This week I've used five of my ow...

Suits - TailoringSeptember 1st 2016

Chinos, loafers and a sports jacket (or sweater)

August 29th 2016

Those on the Drake’s mailing list may have seen this outfit on Friday, accompanying an article on their new trouser range. To fill in the details: the olive Drake’s chinos were worn with a white lightweight ...

Chinos, loafers and a sports jacket (or sweater)

Those on the Drake’s mailing list may have seen this outfit on Friday, accompanying an article on their new trouser range. To fill in the details: the olive Drake’s chinos were worn with a white lightweight ...

Casual wear - JacketsAugust 29th 2016

How to dress pale colours for summer

July 27th 2016

A reader recently commented that the site could do with some more practical pieces about putting clothes together - rather than commissioning them. I am deeply appreciative of such feedback. I do try to keep a balance ...

How to dress pale colours for summer

A reader recently commented that the site could do with some more practical pieces about putting clothes together - rather than commissioning them. I am deeply appreciative of such feedback. I do try to keep a balance ...

Bags - HatsJuly 27th 2016

The appeal of the cotton suit – bespoke from ...

July 20th 2016

I've always found cotton very appealing for summer suits, but historically haven't had much luck with them. I had a navy one made by Choppin & Lodge, but the make was really too English and structured for the materi...

The appeal of the cotton suit – bespoke from ...

I've always found cotton very appealing for summer suits, but historically haven't had much luck with them. I had a navy one made by Choppin & Lodge, but the make was really too English and structured for the materi...

Cloth - SuitsJuly 20th 2016

Colour combinations, from casual to formal

May 31st 2016

The colour combinations that we discuss every week in regards to formal wear, can be applied just as readily to casual wear. Although there will always be elements that don't crossover (such as the immense versatility ...

Colour combinations, from casual to formal

The colour combinations that we discuss every week in regards to formal wear, can be applied just as readily to casual wear. Although there will always be elements that don't crossover (such as the immense versatility ...

Casual jackets - Casual wearMay 31st 2016

Suit style 2: The single breasted

May 27th 2016

Fitting on a single-breasted jacket at Hardy Amies This is the second in a series of articles intended to create an in-depth guide to buying tailoring. Some of these areas have been covered before on the site, but not i...

Suit style 2: The single breasted

Fitting on a single-breasted jacket at Hardy Amies This is the second in a series of articles intended to create an in-depth guide to buying tailoring. Some of these areas have been covered before on the site, but not i...

How to - SuitsMay 27th 2016

Drakes made-to-order ties

May 16th 2016

A few week ago, Drake's asked me to try out their made-to-order tie service, which has been given a new digital home on the website. The prime question is, of course, do you really need a MTO tie? It didn't even featur...

Drakes made-to-order ties

A few week ago, Drake's asked me to try out their made-to-order tie service, which has been given a new digital home on the website. The prime question is, of course, do you really need a MTO tie? It didn't even featur...

Shirts and ties - TiesMay 16th 2016

Your next sports jacket: Oatmeal cashmere from Elia...

April 13th 2016

This pale, oatmeal-coloured cashmere is my new favourite sports-jacket material. When men are picking colours for sports jackets, their second choice (after the obviousness of navy) is usually grey. Which can be great...

Your next sports jacket: Oatmeal cashmere from Elia...

This pale, oatmeal-coloured cashmere is my new favourite sports-jacket material. When men are picking colours for sports jackets, their second choice (after the obviousness of navy) is usually grey. Which can be great...

Jackets - OxfordApril 13th 2016

Escorial jacket: The modernity of muted colours

April 4th 2016

There are many ways in which you can make a sartorial outfit look younger or more modern. Extremes are always wrong: very short jackets, big puffy shoulders. They just look trendy, for a bit. But aside from the extre...

Escorial jacket: The modernity of muted colours

There are many ways in which you can make a sartorial outfit look younger or more modern. Extremes are always wrong: very short jackets, big puffy shoulders. They just look trendy, for a bit. But aside from the extre...

Jackets - StyleApril 4th 2016

How wide should my jacket lapels be?

March 21st 2016

A reader asked this a few weeks ago now, and I thought I’d illustrate my answer by showing the widths that five tailors have cut for my body and proportions. As you can see from the images below, some lapels ar...

How wide should my jacket lapels be?

A reader asked this a few weeks ago now, and I thought I’d illustrate my answer by showing the widths that five tailors have cut for my body and proportions. As you can see from the images below, some lapels ar...

Jackets - TailoringMarch 21st 2016

Wearing a jacket and jeans

October 12th 2015

If there is one question men ask more than any other, it is how to wear a jacket with jeans. Behind this usually lies a desire to dress up an outfit without appearing too up-tight. Friends in the creative or digital i...

Wearing a jacket and jeans

If there is one question men ask more than any other, it is how to wear a jacket with jeans. Behind this usually lies a desire to dress up an outfit without appearing too up-tight. Friends in the creative or digital i...

Casual jackets - Casual wearOctober 12th 2015

A hot, formal evening in Florence

July 27th 2015

Four things contribute most to the formality of an outfit: shine, darkness, contrast and desaturation. We see all four of them in formal outfits such as black tie. Dark black or midnight blue is contrasted against sta...

A hot, formal evening in Florence

Four things contribute most to the formality of an outfit: shine, darkness, contrast and desaturation. We see all four of them in formal outfits such as black tie. Dark black or midnight blue is contrasted against sta...

Loafer - ShoesJuly 27th 2015

Getting dressed: Tan jacket and green linen trousers

June 24th 2015

OK, let’s break this down. There are four major choices of colour here: Trousers: green Jacket: tan Tie: brown Shirt: blue I put them deliberately in that order because that is the order in which they were chose...

Getting dressed: Tan jacket and green linen trousers

OK, let’s break this down. There are four major choices of colour here: Trousers: green Jacket: tan Tie: brown Shirt: blue I put them deliberately in that order because that is the order in which they were chose...

Jackets - StyleJune 24th 2015

Hopsack blazer: the perfect summer jacket

May 29th 2015

This Caliendo hopsack blazer was completed earlier in the year and is now fast becoming the most useful item in my wardrobe. Just like the Solito cashmere blazer I had made for Autumn/Winter last year, it is thrown on ...

Hopsack blazer: the perfect summer jacket

This Caliendo hopsack blazer was completed earlier in the year and is now fast becoming the most useful item in my wardrobe. Just like the Solito cashmere blazer I had made for Autumn/Winter last year, it is thrown on ...

Jackets - TailoringMay 29th 2015

Harris tweed jacket and jeans

November 21st 2014

Walking along the River Tweed, wearing tweed that (is it just me?) is rather reminiscent of the colours of the landscape. Of course, it’s Harris tweed and we’re in the Borders, but it seems fitting nonethel...

Harris tweed jacket and jeans

Walking along the River Tweed, wearing tweed that (is it just me?) is rather reminiscent of the colours of the landscape. Of course, it’s Harris tweed and we’re in the Borders, but it seems fitting nonethel...

Jackets - KnitwearNovember 21st 2014

Postcard from Begg – teasels and cream cashmere

November 4th 2014

One of the interesting tensions in a factory visit is the way machinery is portrayed. Some manufacturers will boast of their old, traditional methods, when in fact the same thing could be done, quicker, by a newer mach...

Postcard from Begg – teasels and cream cashmere

One of the interesting tensions in a factory visit is the way machinery is portrayed. Some manufacturers will boast of their old, traditional methods, when in fact the same thing could be done, quicker, by a newer mach...

Accessories - ScarvesNovember 4th 2014

Postcards from Madrid

May 26th 2014

These past few days I’ve been in Madrid, speaking at the Aristocrata club meeting and seeing a few of the tailors and shoemakers I know ( Langa, Reillo, Calvo de Mora, Norman Vilalta). I invited Elia Caliendo an...

Postcards from Madrid

These past few days I’ve been in Madrid, speaking at the Aristocrata club meeting and seeing a few of the tailors and shoemakers I know ( Langa, Reillo, Calvo de Mora, Norman Vilalta). I invited Elia Caliendo an...

Accessories - HandkerchiefsMay 26th 2014

Checks, denim and balance

April 25th 2014

The question I get more than any other – from both readers and friends – is how to wear separate or ‘odd’ jackets. Indeed, what differentiates an odd jacket from a suit jacket in the first place. ...

Checks, denim and balance

The question I get more than any other – from both readers and friends – is how to wear separate or ‘odd’ jackets. Indeed, what differentiates an odd jacket from a suit jacket in the first place. ...

StyleApril 25th 2014

Levi’s final bespoke jeans

April 11th 2014

I’ve been wearing in my Levi’s bespoke jeans gradually over the past few weeks, and the raw denim is settling in well. For those unfamiliar with raw denim, it is favoured by those passionate about indigo twil...

Levi’s final bespoke jeans

I’ve been wearing in my Levi’s bespoke jeans gradually over the past few weeks, and the raw denim is settling in well. For those unfamiliar with raw denim, it is favoured by those passionate about indigo twil...

Casual wear - DenimApril 11th 2014

Neapolitan tweed jacket – Elia Caliendo

February 26th 2014

  This Neapolitan tweed jacket – made recently for me by Elia Caliendo – is perhaps the perfect update of an English classic. Tweed is a wonderful material – tough, soft and highly wind- and water...

Neapolitan tweed jacket – Elia Caliendo

  This Neapolitan tweed jacket – made recently for me by Elia Caliendo – is perhaps the perfect update of an English classic. Tweed is a wonderful material – tough, soft and highly wind- and water...

Casual jackets - Casual wearFebruary 26th 2014

Pictures from Pitti Uomo 2014

January 12th 2014

A few of the pictures of me from Pitti this year. Above, in brown tweed Caliendo jacket (more on that in a couple of weeks), Anderson & Sheppard flannels and Ralph Lauren madder-like orange handkerchief. Tweed such ...

Pictures from Pitti Uomo 2014

A few of the pictures of me from Pitti this year. Above, in brown tweed Caliendo jacket (more on that in a couple of weeks), Anderson & Sheppard flannels and Ralph Lauren madder-like orange handkerchief. Tweed such ...

StyleJanuary 12th 2014

Cifonelli jacket, D’Avino shirt and others

December 23rd 2013

A reader asked what I was wearing at the dinner of Parisian Gentlemen last week. Fortunately, a profile photo was taken that day at the intellectual property conference I was speaking at – the reason I was in Paris...

Cifonelli jacket, D’Avino shirt and others

A reader asked what I was wearing at the dinner of Parisian Gentlemen last week. Fortunately, a profile photo was taken that day at the intellectual property conference I was speaking at – the reason I was in Paris...

Jackets - ShirtsDecember 23rd 2013

Video on suits and their construction

September 11th 2013

Last week I was profiled in a video series for Harrod’s, giving insights into the construction of Kiton and Tom Ford suits, among others. It should be available in a couple of weeks, coinciding with the launch of a...

Video on suits and their construction

Last week I was profiled in a video series for Harrod’s, giving insights into the construction of Kiton and Tom Ford suits, among others. It should be available in a couple of weeks, coinciding with the launch of a...

Suits - TailoringSeptember 11th 2013

Reader question: belts with suits

March 29th 2013

Simon I have been thinking lately about removing the belt loops from some of my bespoke suit trousers. I was previously convinced that I wanted to remove the belt loops, but now I’m confused after discussing it wit...

Reader question: belts with suits

Simon I have been thinking lately about removing the belt loops from some of my bespoke suit trousers. I was previously convinced that I wanted to remove the belt loops, but now I’m confused after discussing it wit...

Accessories - Belts and walletsMarch 29th 2013

Sartorial column in How to Spend It

January 3rd 2013

I’ve recently begun a column for How to Spend It, the luxury supplement to the Financial Times. The first post, on Neapolitan tailoring, can be seen here. Photo: Luke Carby...

Sartorial column in How to Spend It

I’ve recently begun a column for How to Spend It, the luxury supplement to the Financial Times. The first post, on Neapolitan tailoring, can be seen here. Photo: Luke Carby...

Finding a tailor - TailoringJanuary 3rd 2013

The tailors I have known: Part 2, Italy, France, Sp...

December 14th 2012

Normal.dotm 0 0 1 612 3494 Euromoney PLC 29 6 4290 12.0 0 false 18 pt 18 pt 0 0 false false false This post has now been combined with the larger list of UK tailors, to create a single resource. You can see that full li...

The tailors I have known: Part 2, Italy, France, Sp...

Normal.dotm 0 0 1 612 3494 Euromoney PLC 29 6 4290 12.0 0 false 18 pt 18 pt 0 0 false false false This post has now been combined with the larger list of UK tailors, to create a single resource. You can see that full li...

TailorsDecember 14th 2012

Send in your Permanent Style Tweed pics!

November 9th 2012

I’ve seen quite a few Permanent Style Tweed pieces going through Graham Browne in recent weeks. As my Caliendo jacket gets ready for completion, this is a call out to readers to send in pictures of their tweed made...

Send in your Permanent Style Tweed pics!

I’ve seen quite a few Permanent Style Tweed pieces going through Graham Browne in recent weeks. As my Caliendo jacket gets ready for completion, this is a call out to readers to send in pictures of their tweed made...

November 9th 2012

Solito jacket, Naples

October 24th 2012

I love Gennaro’s cutting board, by the window looking out into the squareThis was the second fitting on a Solito jacket in Naples. Luigi, the son, was there the first time earlier in the year, and as he speaks some...

Solito jacket, Naples

I love Gennaro’s cutting board, by the window looking out into the squareThis was the second fitting on a Solito jacket in Naples. Luigi, the son, was there the first time earlier in the year, and as he speaks some...

Jackets - TailoringOctober 24th 2012

Elia Caliendo: tweed jacket

October 19th 2012

After months of indecision, I finally decided to have my length of Permanent Style tweed made up by Elia Caliendo in Naples. Every time I have been to Graham Browne recently, I see another length being made up for a read...

Elia Caliendo: tweed jacket

After months of indecision, I finally decided to have my length of Permanent Style tweed made up by Elia Caliendo in Naples. Every time I have been to Graham Browne recently, I see another length being made up for a read...

Jackets - TailoringOctober 19th 2012

Kent Haste & Lachter linen suit

July 20th 2012

Trying to look natural while eating. Which is impossible The linen suit shown here is my most recent commission, from the sterling outfit that is now Kent Haste & Lachter. There is a blog; there is a group photo on ...

Kent Haste & Lachter linen suit

Trying to look natural while eating. Which is impossible The linen suit shown here is my most recent commission, from the sterling outfit that is now Kent Haste & Lachter. There is a blog; there is a group photo on ...

Suits - TailoringJuly 20th 2012

Elia Caliendo jacket

July 13th 2012

Pictured at the MTBA party last week, this is the finished jacket from Neapolitan tailor Elia Caliendo. Readers of The Rake online will have read previous posts on Elia, looking at both the man himself and an analysis of...

Elia Caliendo jacket

Pictured at the MTBA party last week, this is the finished jacket from Neapolitan tailor Elia Caliendo. Readers of The Rake online will have read previous posts on Elia, looking at both the man himself and an analysis of...

Jackets - TailoringJuly 13th 2012

JM Weston, Elia Caliendo and Globe-Trotter

June 22nd 2012

Some hopefully enlightening and entertaining posts on The Rake, including the French chestnut tanneries of JM Weston (above), the cute patch pockets of Elia Caliendo (below) and the making of a Globe-Trotter suitcase....

JM Weston, Elia Caliendo and Globe-Trotter

Some hopefully enlightening and entertaining posts on The Rake, including the French chestnut tanneries of JM Weston (above), the cute patch pockets of Elia Caliendo (below) and the making of a Globe-Trotter suitcase....

TailoringJune 22nd 2012

The Rake online

March 6th 2012

A Stefano Bemer bespoke solePlease remember, loyal readers, that I am now writing every week – indeed, twice a week – for The Rake online, which is expanding into a great source for international artisanal ar...

The Rake online

A Stefano Bemer bespoke solePlease remember, loyal readers, that I am now writing every week – indeed, twice a week – for The Rake online, which is expanding into a great source for international artisanal ar...

March 6th 2012