Vittorio Salino tweed jacket: Review
I'm back! Hello everyone, I hope you had a nice week in the amiable arms of Manish, and you haven't all decided he is better in every respect than me. Although even if you have, fear not - he will be writing again very soon, including the second par...
Vittorio Salino tweed jacket: Review
Match in comments:
Thanks Jon, and yes I can see that on that kind of honest discussion...
Vittorio Salino: His philosophy, and fitting a ja...
Having met the Florentine tailor Vittorio Salino last summer, I took the opportunity of being in Florence this past January to commission a jacket. I got on with Vittorio, was impressed with his outlook, and realised PS readers would be interested i...
Vittorio Salino: His philosophy, and fitting a ja...
Match in comments:
I just know they are doing less bespoke than they were, and the emphasis has been more on MTM....
B&Tailor double-breasted overcoat: Review
We covered the Korean outfit B&Tailor in some detail here at the beginning of the month. For details on them, their history and their style, please read that article. It might seem a little odd splitting things up like this, but I find it m...
B&Tailor double-breasted overcoat: Review
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A bespoke overcoat is always full canvas Larry, and I would always have that. Even on a lightweight summer jacket I would always have full canvas - just make the canvas lighter...
Manish’s five bespoke lessons: Picking cloth
By Manish Puri. This article is the second in a series dealing with my personal experiences of having bespoke/MTM clothes made over the last six years. The first covered some of my tips for working with tailors, while this piece focuses on the lesso...
Manish’s five bespoke lessons: Picking cloth
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No problem John...
The Guide to Tweed: Bunches
In our voluminous Guide to Cloth series , we’ve already done an article on tweed. But that was about the history, the style and a little about the types. There was no mention of bunches. Today’s article takes on that introduction, fleshes...
The Guide to Tweed: Bunches
Match in comments:
Yes, that's right, and lovely to hear!...
The guide to hopsack (and mesh, mock leno and bas...
Hopsack and similar materials are a good choice for summer blazers - sharp jackets usually made in smart colours, such as navy. The materials don’t vary that much, even if the weaves themselves are different. A mesh in a classic menswear dark...
The guide to hopsack (and mesh, mock leno and bas...
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No Jack, it depends entirely on the yarn (rough, smooth etc), the weave and the colour/pattern...
The next talk with Rubato, and pop-up shop updates
I’m pleased to say that the next in our series of talks at Mortimer House will be with Oliver and Carl from Rubato, on March 31st. These events have a really nice atmosphere, with everyone milling around, browsing the products and chatting to ...
The next talk with Rubato, and pop-up shop updates
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There are quite significant differences. The Rubato cut is a little unusual - a little shorter, a little fuller in the chest. They also tend to use lambswool rather than cashmere, which is a little chunky, hard-wearing b...
An Hermes silk scarf with all navy
Long-term readers will be familiar with my passion for Hermes silk scarves, which I’ve often bought over the years as a treat, and of which I now have a small collection (nine of them, since you ask). I’ve found particular enjoyment thi...
An Hermes silk scarf with all navy
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Yes, that would be nice PA. Nice size for that...
PS Presents ’23: Arterton, LEJ, Marrkt, Fox...
March 1 update: Rubato and Permanent Style dates confirmed as March 29 to April 1 Rubato will be launching new products, bringing almost everything to try on, and a good range to buy as well Fox will be running different on different days of their e...
PS Presents ’23: Arterton, LEJ, Marrkt, Fox...
Match in comments:
Hi Teo, Yes that's right, and I'll be there with them on Thursday, the first day. It will open at 10am...
The Merchant Fox: All the casual jackets reviewed
By Manish Puri In between short walks to the kitchen to restock on mince pies and watching Home Alone for the 83 rd time (this genuinely may be an understatement), the festive period offers a singular opportunity to contemplate weighty matters conce...
The Merchant Fox: All the casual jackets reviewed
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Not yet I'm afraid Ben, we haven't seen them in person...
What shoes should I wear with brown trousers?
This might seem like a fairly simple question, but it comes up so often in comments that I think it’s worth answering in full here, and then directing anyone in the future to this post. The reason people ask about shoes with brown trousers, o...
What shoes should I wear with brown trousers?
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Strength and weather-resistance are the only ones really. I'd only go for it if weather-resistance were a big factor...
A collared cardigan under a jacket: Ciardi and Co...
In recent weeks I’ve been playing around with this button-through cardigan from Colhay’s. Initially I was sceptical as to whether I’d ever wear it tucked in - and afraid it was a little lightweight to wear untucked. The same fear ...
A collared cardigan under a jacket: Ciardi and Co...
Match in comments:
Thanks Ollie, I did!...
Layering and accessories for cold Spring days
Back when these things were possible, I remember an American friend visiting in the Spring and asking: “How on earth do you dress for this weather? I can see my breath in the morning, but my midday I’m roasting and can barely wear a jack...
Layering and accessories for cold Spring days
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Wonderful! Thank you Jack...
Both chic and bold: How to dress like Angel Ramos
Although Angel Ramos and I have only met a few times, we’ve always seemed to have something in common when it came to styles we liked. Angel wears slippers a lot, and has more of a tendency towards bright colours and patterns. The ov...
Both chic and bold: How to dress like Angel Ramos
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Yes I expect so. Certainly all perspectives valid and should be considered, but there are always many...
Artisan of the Year 2021: Whitcomb & Shaftes...
Best artisan 2021: Whitcomb & Shaftesbury I decided to give my Artisan of the Year award this year to Whitcomb & Shaftesbury because, looking back on recent commissions, they have so consistently delivered on quality and v...
Artisan of the Year 2021: Whitcomb & Shaftes...
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Amazing, so pleased Matthew. That's time, money and waste all saved!...
Navy jacket and jeans (with recommended cloths)
A few readers asked in our recent Complete Capsule posts about the kind of navy jacket I mentioned, that would work with jeans as well as flannels. So I thought I’d shoot this example from Solito, which Luigi made me last year but which I've ...
Navy jacket and jeans (with recommended cloths)
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I would Ciardi, Pirozzi and Ettore de Cesare probably. The softness won't vary much, the thing to watch out for is just getting a very natural shoulder - no roping at all in the sleevehead...
Wearing black
Over the past year, I’ve gradually been wearing more black. Readers will have seen that in the recommendation of this Berg & Berg black shirt , for example, and these black cords . It's been particularly pronounced with shoes though, a...
Wearing black
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To be honest I'm not sure Charlie - I've never worn that style of jacket in anything other than blue denim and I think it might be a bit much for me if I did...
Introducing: The white PS Oxford
On the final day of the pop-up shop back in October, it occurred to me to bring in my blue PS Oxford shirt - to show how it had softened with age. The response was telling. Half of the people that felt it bought one on the day, and several of the o...
Introducing: The white PS Oxford
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Hi Ayush I think that's a risk with all colours, but, I agree, the effect might be exaggerated with unusual colours because the standout more. In the example you've given, I think it's not so much the colour (which I don...
Video: What ‘spalla camicia’ really m...
As soft Neapolitan jackets have become popular in the past 10 years or so, the phrase 'spalla camicia' has been more and more frequently used. However if it means anything consistently, this Italian phrase for 'shirt sleeve' refers to a pretty narro...
Video: What ‘spalla camicia’ really m...
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They aren't necessarily different. Camicia just says something about the way the shoulder material and the sleeve connect. Mappina is about how much material is gathered at the top - the shirring. You can have one, both,...
Video: English and Neapolitan jackets compared
This groundwork for this video was laid two weeks ago, when we examined the various aspects of the cut of a jacket. It might be worth watching that first, if you haven't already. It showed the most important points of cut and structure, from the siz...
Video: English and Neapolitan jackets compared
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There's always one in there - just needs to be controlled now and again!...
Video: The cut and parts of a bespoke jacket
At the prompting of readers, I will be doing some more video pieces over the coming months, looking at different aspects of suit style. These new, slightly shorter films will be a nice accompaniment to the Style Breakdown series - where I measure an...
Video: The cut and parts of a bespoke jacket
Match in comments:
Thank you. I'm afraid that number of takes, audio and editing is a bit beyond our budget/time, but thank you for the suggestions - I'll bring them up with the team....
The best cloths of Autumn/Winter 2019
This series started as a way to highlight cloths from the hyper-seasonal collections - usually Italian - that came and went within a few months. The impulse was that readers often saw something I had had made, and asked what the cloth was - but by ...
The best cloths of Autumn/Winter 2019
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The suit or tailoring is whether we like it or not on a decline. Many corporate offices no longer require a suit or even a blazer / jacket unless you are meeting clients. On the street suits and blazer / jackets are rare...
A guide to high-twist bunches
This is a summary and analysis of the high-twist wools available from different mills and merchants. As with the linen one we did last year, the aim is to set out most of the range so that bespoke customers know if their tailor is missing something...
A guide to high-twist bunches
Match in comments:
Good point Peter. I'd add that it is a touch more smooth and suit-like, but only a touch, and that's always the trade off with these high twists...
Video: Douglas Cordeaux and Gianluca Migliarotti ...
Why did the Japanese spend all day screaming at Douglas? How does Gianluca think Italian artisans are being dishonest? This conversation between myself, Gianluca Migliarotti of Pommella trousers, and Douglas Cordeaux of Fox Brothers, I think qualifi...
Video: Douglas Cordeaux and Gianluca Migliarotti ...
Match in comments:
I'm sure it was Fox Brothers, but other than that I don't know, sorry...
Kathryn Sargent chalk-stripe suit: Style Breakdown
Kathryn Sargent, perhaps unexpectedly, is one of the most structured and square-shouldered of the suit styles in this series. The make is most similar to Huntsman, which we featured here as a hunting jacket in their house tweed, while Chittleboroug...
Kathryn Sargent chalk-stripe suit: Style Breakdown
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I think it can, yes, but it helps if it's not in business-type colours like grey or navy...
