The Rake online

March 6th 2012

A Stefano Bemer bespoke solePlease remember, loyal readers, that I am now writing every week – indeed, twice a week – for The Rake online, which is expanding into a great source for international artisanal articles. Recently we ha...

The Rake online

Match in comments:
I'm afraid not, though some were published on Permanent Style too, and the same topics are certainly covered on here...

March 6th 2012

Buy good English shoes

January 25th 2012

Good English shoes are pretty much always worth the money you pay for them. Three things reminded me of this in recent weeks. One was a friend’s wedding. After years of buying in the low end of the market, he bought a pair from Crockett �...

Buy good English shoes

Match in comments:
Simon, Good advice. FYI, whilst the shop did not appear to have particularly strong feelings either way, they did recommend a wear or two prior to any treatment (e.g. polish, condition, etc.)....

ShoesJanuary 25th 2012

Gaziano & Girling: Deco – the shoes

January 23rd 2012

It should have been obvious from my piece back in May on Gaziano & Girling’s new Deco line that I would be very tempted by them, and this is the result a few months later. They are gorgeous shoes, whole-cut Oxfords in a luscious bl...

Gaziano & Girling: Deco – the shoes

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yes I did...

ShoesJanuary 23rd 2012

US shoemaker tours

September 20th 2011

It’s time for US tours again. Doesn’t time fly? The full dates for two makers – Cleverley and Alfred Sargent Handgrade – can be seen on their sites at those links. And pictured we have some new styles from Sarg...

US shoemaker tours

It’s time for US tours again. Doesn’t time fly? The full dates for two makers – Cleverley and Alfred Sargent Handgrade – can be seen on their sites at those links. And pictured we have some new styles from Sargen...

September 20th 2011

Gaziano & Girling: Deco

May 25th 2011

Latest from The Rake: Devils in Deco Five years ago Tony Gaziano and Dean Girling were a breath of fresh air in British shoemaking. Now, with the startlingly elegant Deco line, they’re determined to do it all over again Simon Crompton You have ...

Gaziano & Girling: Deco

Match in comments:
For the same price you could go get a pair of Crockett and Jones shoes and they would look better, last better and age better. I am biased towards Northampton benchmade shoes, but with good reason....

ShoesMay 25th 2011

Update on Deco

December 30th 2010

Following several requests, here are a few more details on Gaziano & Girling’s new Deco line: – Shoes will only be available made-to-order to begin with – Retailers will be offered the option to carry stock, so ...

Update on Deco

Following several requests, here are a few more details on Gaziano & Girling’s new Deco line: – Shoes will only be available made-to-order to begin with – Retailers will be offered the option to carry stock, so th...

ShoesDecember 30th 2010

Sneak peek: Deco, from Gaziano & Girling

December 24th 2010

A little Christmas treat for you here, a sneak peek at the Deco line from Gaziano & Girling that will come out next year. The shots, taken exclusively by Andy for Permanent Style, are of the first finished model, a black whole cut. Deco is ...

Sneak peek: Deco, from Gaziano & Girling

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Wow, what a beautiful shoe! Great lines and a clean design!...

ShoesDecember 24th 2010

Ribbon shoe laces

December 22nd 2010

I’ve never been a fan of Albert slippers with black tie. With a normal tux they look out of place and with a velvet jacket they drag the look back to the domestic engagement that the jacket is trying to escape from. Equally, patent shoes ha...

Ribbon shoe laces

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Thanks George, very helpful...

Shoes - StyleDecember 22nd 2010

Alfred Sargent Handgrade

November 24th 2010

Following a conversation earlier in the year with Chay Cooper, I commissioned the Alfred Sargent Handgrade shoes above. One of the reasons Handgrade has developed such a word-of-mouth following is the personalisation it offers, both as regards the de...

Alfred Sargent Handgrade

Match in comments:
No, sorry HC...

ShoesNovember 24th 2010

Wine-red socks with a grey suit

October 25th 2010

This series is a progression in socks, from the most conservative to the most flamboyant colour combinations. It is important to start slowly and build to greater sophistication. Colour is tricky; so much can go wrong in a shade. Buy one or two pairs...

Wine-red socks with a grey suit

Match in comments:
Thanks, The Armoury has their own collection of Bresciani OTC wool socks which have all the essential colors. Asking them to see how they compare to the Mazarin equivalent in terms of thickness as I am looking for a thin...

Socks and underwearOctober 25th 2010

Gaziano & Girling: The benefits of both sides

February 11th 2010

While up in Northampton last week, I stopped in to see Gaziano & Girling’s new workshop. And Tony was kind enough to show me round. There aren’t many shoe makers in England that combine a bespoke and ready-made business in the wa...

Gaziano & Girling: The benefits of both sides

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Yes, the quality of leathers will be at least as good at G&G, probably better...

ShoesFebruary 11th 2010

Why you buy bespoke suits first

September 20th 2009

After four bespoke suits made in Hong Kong over the past few years, and now embarking on my second British bespoke suit, I find it hard to see how I could ever stop getting a particular thrill out of it. But it will be a while before I pay for bespok...

Why you buy bespoke suits first

Match in comments:
Thank you Simon. If any reader of Permanent Style has experience with Spoon Tailor in San Francisco, I'd very much appreciate input. My one concern with them is that I don't "know" what I want. By that I mean, I need som...

SuitsSeptember 20th 2009

Cheap bespoke – too good to be true?

June 10th 2009

Entirely handmade shoes are not cheap. The high-end benchmade shoes are hand-clicked and hand-lasted, but not hand-welted. In this country, most of the entirely handmade ones are made bespoke. And that makes them even more expensive, as the shoe is b...

Cheap bespoke – too good to be true?

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Hi Laura, to my knowledge, it is impossible to copy shoes. Shoe making almost always involves a shoe last (except probably for some slippers or flipflops). I'm afraid, but I see no solution at the moment for your quest. ...

ShoesJune 10th 2009

A few new gems at Leffot

April 2nd 2009

Leffot, the shoe store I described as “a gem in New York” almost a year ago now, is going from strength to strength. Back then it had only been open a month and was still finding its feet. Now it is expanding its offering (quite impressiv...

A few new gems at Leffot

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When I saw this it made me want to go out and buy five pairs of shoes immediately....

ShoesApril 2nd 2009