Liverano ulster coat: Style Breakdown
This coat from Liverano & Liverano in Florence has had a bit of an after life, being imitated in this tweed a fair bit, as well as spurring some to have the same coat from Liverano (despite the high cost). It remains one of my abs...
Liverano ulster coat: Style Breakdown
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Thank you James. Next time, we'll be there!...
My favourite clothes ever: Awards 2022
I have to say, I was really pleased with the reaction to this year’s PS Awards, which were set out here two weeks ago. It’s always nerve-wracking changing the format of a popular series, but after almost 1000 product recommendations from...
My favourite clothes ever: Awards 2022
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Perhaps look in the perfume category in the menu? There are many articles there including one summarising the few I recently cut down to...
If you had five coats: A versatile selection
As with our previous article in this series – on bags – five coats might seem like a lot, but actually chances are many readers already have that in their wardrobe, if they account for smart and casual coats, for warmth...
If you had five coats: A versatile selection
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Thanks Simon! Okay I see. Probably it is I should be wearing that look more frequently and then see how I feel with it. Yes, without a collar (crewneck for instance) it feels especially odd....
The jackets I picked for winter
A couple of weeks ago, when our little Indian summer here in the UK came to an end, I started the process of switching my wardrobe around for colder weather. I keep winter sweaters, roll necks, coats and heavy tweeds stored in the attic, and slowly...
The jackets I picked for winter
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I had my colours done years ago, but to be honest I can't remember. As we discussed here, I'm not sure it's that useful On picking five, have you seen the articles on that subject in the Wardrobe Building guide?...
Jetted pockets: Signs of a good finishing
A reader recently asked about what constituted the ‘finishing’ of a suit - and what indicates quality. I initially planned a response going through every aspect of this, with examples, but that quickly became unwieldy. There are just to...
Jetted pockets: Signs of a good finishing
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I would leave that up to the tailor to decide George, based on the proportions elsewhere. By the way, I assume you mean flapped as well, not just a jett?...
The Armoury tailoring: Ring Jacket, Orazio, Liverano
Given how much readers have liked the posts recently looking at Armoury trousers, and then the Bryceland’s range, I thought a post going through the Armoury’s tailoring would be interesting. If anything this is more needed than the trous...
The Armoury tailoring: Ring Jacket, Orazio, Liverano
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What do you mean by grabby in this instance? I am thinking of potentially sizing down from my normal size for the model 7, so any clarification you can offer would be great...
Best-dressed man 2019: @Gusvs9 (or, dressing simp...
Best-dressed non-professional 2019: @Gusvs9 Runners-up: @urbancomposition, @flannels_and_tweed @Gusvs9 doesn’t like people to know who he is. You never see his face on Instagram, and there is no biography. Such an approach...
Best-dressed man 2019: @Gusvs9 (or, dressing simp...
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Great advice. Thanks for the ideas...
Liverano & Liverano purple jacket: Style Bre...
Following our last piece of bespoke tailoring to be analysed in this series – Ferdinando Caraceni in Milan – we now turn to the most famous of the Florentine tailors: Liverano & Liverano. Liverano has received such attenti...
Liverano & Liverano purple jacket: Style Bre...
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Great article, Manish! It's one of your best, and I found it highly relatable. I recently lost my bespoke virginity after a 20-year wait (I think he is the one), and here are my takeaways from the fabric selection ...
Wearing warm and cold colours
Taka from Liverano. Lots of colour and pattern, but overall quite cold Being able to judge the relative formality of an outfit is a key component of dressing well in modern, variable working environments. Many things contribute to this formality: Mo...
Wearing warm and cold colours
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I certainly would mix them together, yes, it can be an interesting combination....
The roll neck
The Spring/Summer collections may be arriving, but it’s 2 degrees outside in London, and I’m continuing a season-long love affair with roll necks. The wonderful thing about a roll neck is that it is both very practical and very stylish; ...
The roll neck
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I think both can work well, it depends on the kind of things you would wear them with mostly. I would go with slightly thicker, a thin one can look a little effeminate and hard to wear on its own...
Fox re-weave my ecru cavalry twill
*Cloth now sold out. Fox are taking pre-orders for the next batch* At our pop-up shop back in April 2017, Fox Brothers brought up some vintage bolts to offer readers, including a rather beautiful ecru cavalry twill. I bought a length myself, and s...
Fox re-weave my ecru cavalry twill
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No, mine wasn't a worsted...
Liverano & Liverano ulster coat: Review
I’ve wanted a Liverano ulster coat for a long time. Ever since I first saw one on Ethan Newton I think, and subsequently reinforced by seeing versions on Jeff Hilliard (now at Mr Porter) and others. Liverano is very expensive, however, and it ...
Liverano & Liverano ulster coat: Review
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I'm afraid it's in storage at the moment and I can't check Sean. Do feel free to ask again in the Autumn and I'll measure them for you...
Bespoke commissions – What I should and sho...
Thank you everyone that responded to my ‘You are the interviewer’ post a couple of weeks ago. The number of variety of questions was staggering, and I will try to answer as many as I can over the coming weeks. It may take time, but I wou...
Bespoke commissions – What I should and sho...
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I don't know the exact history, but I think it came from English tweed jackets which themselves were derived from those made for riding...
Florence: A sartorial shopping guide
Florence is best known as a tourist destination in the summer – the Uffizi, the Duomo, the Ponte Vecchio – and a menswear hub in January and June, when it plays host to the men’s trade show Pitti Uomo. But it has enough ...
Florence: A sartorial shopping guide
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They are good quality, yes, but I'm afraid I haven't used them for many years Lindsay, I couldn't tell you my favourite. Do try them in person...
How wide should my jacket lapels be?
A reader asked this a few weeks ago now, and I thought I’d illustrate my answer by showing the widths that five tailors have cut for my body and proportions. As you can see from the images below, some lapels are wider than others, but t...
How wide should my jacket lapels be?
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Thanks TJ. I think 11cm might be ok then - you'll have more room to play with than me. But do look at it yourself when you're doing the fitting and consider it as a proportion rather than an absolute number....
Video: The Tailoring Symposium
Ahead of our next Symposium in Florence next week – focusing on accessories – here’s a reminder of the tailoring edition I organised last summer. The Rake organised this video of our discussion beforehand, at ...
Video: The Tailoring Symposium
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Thanks Irv, lovely to hear...
The 10 Most Rakish Men
Nice to be included in The Rake Japan’s list of the 10 most Rakish men in the world, and alongside some lovely company. As ever, the Japan arm of the magazine is particularly geeky, and concentrated on accessories, collections and cloth...
The 10 Most Rakish Men
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Well deserved!...
House styles and difficult customers: The Tailori...
Edward Sexton Before the public part of Tailoring Symposium in June, we all gathered next to the pool at the Four Seasons to have a chat about tailoring and its future, with The Rake busily making a video of the event in the background. This was ...
House styles and difficult customers: The Tailori...
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Thanks Chris. There is a post covering it here....
Tailoring Symposium: the outfits
* Update: Going by the ‘likes’ on Instagram, the outfits currently rank as: Anderson & Sheppard Cifonelli Liverano Edward Sexton Panico Richard Anderson (Do you agree? Join in!) * These are the si...
Tailoring Symposium: the outfits
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Yes it is, and of several other Savile Row tailors. Usually just on the back pocket though, given no buttons on the trousers are visible elsewhere. I always liked it as a small decorative touch....
The Tailoring Symposium: six greats in one room
“Edward, Edward,” said Antonio Panico, in a conspiratorial whisper. “What was it like to fit Mick Jagger?” Just like the Shoemakers Symposium we ran in January, the biggest pleas...
The Tailoring Symposium: six greats in one room
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Not really, no.... Flannel isn't always great for a jacket, but more importantly this would be a very bold thing for a first commission (colour, DB, and 6x1 rather than 6x2) and I'd be afraid you wouldn't wear it that mu...
Brio menswear store – Beijing, China
Last month we had a book launch at the Brio menswear store in Beijing. It’s worth running through a few more details of the shop – because the stock is interesting, and because it is part of a pleasing trend in more s...
Brio menswear store – Beijing, China
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I haven't tried Inglese enough (one shirt a long time ago) to really comment on other areas like fit...
Almost ready – suits being made for our Tai...
At our Tailoring Symposium next week in Florence, we have six of the greatest tailors in the world presenting their styles to the audience of press and buyers: Panico, Cifonelli, Edward Sexton, Richard Anderson, Liverano & Liverano, and An...
Almost ready – suits being made for our Tai...
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Sometime in the future it would be interesting to see a range of work from provincial Tailors. Some people who have posted on your Blog have alluded to this subject in the past. There are many talented people out there a...
Vitale Barberis opens archives
Last week Vitale Barberis Canonico held a party at the mill in Patrivero, near Biella, to celebrate the refurnishing and opening up of its archives. It was a great event, and the archives have created a rich resource for designers the world over. Ale...
Vitale Barberis opens archives
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Lucky you, that's a pretty good team. Miss Yoshimi Hasegawa got a wonderful tumblr here -> http://yoshimihasegawa.tumblr.com...
The Rake opens London Collections: Men
This is probably the busiest week of the year. I tend to avoid the fashion shows, but there are now some great tailoring events in the calendar – including The Rake’s party at Claridge’s on Sunday night and the English G...
The Rake opens London Collections: Men
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I know Harry, yes. Not the others though...
How to wear separate jackets and trousers
In an age where suits no longer dominate the workplace, more and more men are wearing separate jackets and trousers. But while the dress code is more relaxed, the outfit is suddenly more complicated. There is much broader range of cloth, colour and p...
How to wear separate jackets and trousers
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In terms of jackets? I'd start with something like a light or mid-grey jacket, white shirt and black shoes. I'd then also try a navy, a cream, possibly a black, and possibly a beige/oatmeal. Plain colours (given the trou...
