High/low dressing

December 6th 2017

The biggest potential pitfall with tailored dressing is looking fussy. Fussy is not sexy; it is not attractive. It is closely related to appearing ‘affected’ or ‘mannered’. Looking relaxed in clothing, on the other hand, is v...

High/low dressing

The biggest potential pitfall with tailored dressing is looking fussy. Fussy is not sexy; it is not attractive. It is closely related to appearing ‘affected’ or ‘mannered’. Looking relaxed in clothing, on the ot...

Casual wear - HatsDecember 6th 2017

Begg, J. Girdwood and The Rake (Chapal, Sciamat, 10...

December 1st 2017

First off, I need to mention that the J.Girdwood website is finally up and active. Anyone that has been into the first or second pop-ups will have seen James (above) and his J.Girdwood range of products. They include some Permanent Style favourites...

Begg, J. Girdwood and The Rake (Chapal, Sciamat, 10...

First off, I need to mention that the J.Girdwood website is finally up and active.  Anyone that has been into the first or second pop-ups will have seen James (above) and his J.Girdwood range of products. They include ...

Accessories - BootDecember 1st 2017

Christmas gift list 2017

November 29th 2017

I finally got around to putting together a Christmas gift guide for this year, which I know many readers have asked about (and like forwarding directly to their wives). I have deliberately not included either Permanent Style products here, or those ...

Christmas gift list 2017

I finally got around to putting together a Christmas gift guide for this year, which I know many readers have asked about (and like forwarding directly to their wives). I have deliberately not included either Permanent ...

Accessories - Belts and walletsNovember 29th 2017

Simpson London leather goods – Factory visit

November 22nd 2017

Simpson London in Canning Town is one of those rare things in British menswear: a shining new and dynamic factory. I’ve visited dozens of British factories over the past 10 years, and although many of them have character in spades, they are of...

Simpson London leather goods – Factory visit

Simpson London in Canning Town is one of those rare things in British menswear: a shining new and dynamic factory. I’ve visited dozens of British factories over the past 10 years, and although many of them have charac...

Accessories - BagsNovember 22nd 2017

Introducing: The Suit-Carrier Holdall

November 9th 2017

Although many of our collaborations have taken a while, this has been the hardest and most time-consuming ever. Perhaps because it is so different, and functionality so important. It is a bag and garment carrier in one - and it is called the Suit-Ca...

Introducing: The Suit-Carrier Holdall

Although many of our collaborations have taken a while, this has been the hardest and most time-consuming ever. Perhaps because it is so different, and functionality so important. It is a bag and garment carrier in one ...

Accessories - BagsNovember 9th 2017

Bespoke brass jewellery: Diana Maynard

October 27th 2017

This probably won’t surprise readers, but when I started looking to buy a significant piece of jewellery last year, I wanted something personal, bespoke and handmade. I don't have anything particular against friendship bracelets; when I was a ...

Bespoke brass jewellery: Diana Maynard

This probably won’t surprise readers, but when I started looking to buy a significant piece of jewellery last year, I wanted something personal, bespoke and handmade. I don't have anything particular against friendshi...

AccessoriesOctober 27th 2017

The growth of bespoke and customised glasses

September 8th 2017

The following feature was commissioned by an international fashion magazine, but later cancelled. I have reproduced it here as I think it rounds out some of our discussion of bespoke eyewear - bringing in makers like Lindberg and discussing future d...

The growth of bespoke and customised glasses

The following feature was commissioned by an international fashion magazine, but later cancelled. I have reproduced it here as I think it rounds out some of our discussion of bespoke eyewear - bringing in makers like L...

Accessories - GlassesSeptember 8th 2017

Barbarulo 1894 – Neapolitan handmade jewellery

August 23rd 2017

As in Japan last year, while we were in Naples in July we took the time to see some crafts outside of menswear - in this case, jewellery at Barbarulo. Barbarulo in its modern incarnation is closely associated with menswear. It is best known for cuff...

Barbarulo 1894 – Neapolitan handmade jewellery

As in Japan last year, while we were in Naples in July we took the time to see some crafts outside of menswear - in this case, jewellery at Barbarulo. Barbarulo in its modern incarnation is closely associated with mensw...

AccessoriesAugust 23rd 2017

A history of modern perfume

August 21st 2017

There is no such thing as masculine perfume, or feminine perfume. Men used to wear rose scents; women wore cologne. The idea that fragrance can be divided into male and female is purely a product of 50 years of marketing. This was brought home durin...

A history of modern perfume

There is no such thing as masculine perfume, or feminine perfume. Men used to wear rose scents; women wore cologne. The idea that fragrance can be divided into male and female is purely a product of 50 years of marketin...

PerfumeAugust 21st 2017

Accessories for holiday

August 7th 2017

Following my post two weeks ago on what I pack for travel, a reader asked about non-clothing items - electronics, toiletries and so on. So here are a few of my favourite things, which will certainly be going on holiday this summer. 1 Bower &...

Accessories for holiday

Following my post two weeks ago on what I pack for travel, a reader asked about non-clothing items - electronics, toiletries and so on.  So here are a few of my favourite things, which will certainly be going on holida...

Accessories - BagsAugust 7th 2017

What I pack when I travel

July 19th 2017

As I return from two summer trips - one for a week in Florence, the other a week in Naples - it seems a fitting time to run through what I pack for trips such as these. I know readers have asked about it in the past. Of course, any travelling wardro...

What I pack when I travel

As I return from two summer trips - one for a week in Florence, the other a week in Naples - it seems a fitting time to run through what I pack for trips such as these. I know readers have asked about it in the past. Of...

Accessories - BagsJuly 19th 2017

Pale summer colours (in vintage linen)

July 17th 2017

This is a nice exercise in combining summery, pale colours. The challenge is being light and pale overall, while retaining enough contrast between shirt, jacket and trousers - both in colour and texture. The starting point is the jacket, made for m...

Pale summer colours (in vintage linen)

This is a nice exercise in combining summery, pale colours. The challenge is being light and pale overall, while retaining enough contrast between shirt, jacket and trousers - both in colour and texture.  The startin...

Accessories - HatsJuly 17th 2017

Connolly: Style and fashion meet on Clifford Street

July 14th 2017

Connolly, which opened on Clifford Street at the end of last year, is one of the most interesting new menswear stores London has had for a while. It offers luxury clothing, both under its own name and a few European brands ( Charvet, Car Shoe, Stile...

Connolly: Style and fashion meet on Clifford Street

Connolly, which opened on Clifford Street at the end of last year, is one of the most interesting new menswear stores London has had for a while. It offers luxury clothing, both under its own name and a few European bra...

Accessories - BagsJuly 14th 2017

My desk

July 5th 2017

Many readers said they liked the personal, behind-the-scenes approach of Plaza Uomo's cover story on me last year. Here, then, is another angle. My desk, where I write most of these posts, and therefore probably the most important Permanent Style-r...

My desk

Many readers said they liked the personal, behind-the-scenes approach of Plaza Uomo's cover story on me last year.  Here, then, is another angle. My desk, where I write most of these posts, and therefore probably the m...

Accessories - BootJuly 5th 2017

Brand round-up: Rubinacci, CQP and Carl Friedrik

July 3rd 2017

A slightly smaller set of reviews in the brand round-up this month, with more focus on the details. Rubinacci suit carrier, £1200 therake.com/brands/rubinacci/bags First up is this leather suit carrier - or garment bag - from Rubinacci, being ...

Brand round-up: Rubinacci, CQP and Carl Friedrik

A slightly smaller set of reviews in the brand round-up this month, with more focus on the details. Rubinacci suit carrier, £1200 therake.com/brands/rubinacci/bags First up is this leather suit carrier - or garment bag...

Accessories - BagsJuly 3rd 2017

A Lange & Sohne watches: Factory visit

June 19th 2017

I've always liked watches, but deliberately stayed out of the depths of obsessiveness that consumes some men. Time and money restricts your hobbies, and I have preferred to acquire the odd piece that particularly takes me from an aesthetic point of ...

A Lange & Sohne watches: Factory visit

I've always liked watches, but deliberately stayed out of the depths of obsessiveness that consumes some men. Time and money restricts your hobbies, and I have preferred to acquire the odd piece that particularly takes...

AccessoriesJune 19th 2017

How a hand-sewn alligator strap is made

June 16th 2017

This video, just completed by Charlie at Equus Leather, is a wonderfully expressive demonstration of leatherwork. I particularly like the sound detail - that sinewy scrape of knife cutting through alligator skin. Watch the full 10 minutes and then ...

How a hand-sewn alligator strap is made

This video, just completed by Charlie at Equus Leather, is a wonderfully expressive demonstration of leatherwork.  I particularly like the sound detail - that sinewy scrape of knife cutting through alligator skin. Wat...

Accessories - Belts and walletsJune 16th 2017

Ludovic Lunetier – bespoke glasses, Brussels

May 24th 2017

During an event in Brussels last year I met the young glasses-maker Ludovic Elens, who runs Lunetier Ludovic just off Place du Sablon. Ludovic is worth highlighting for many reasons, but most obviously because he is the only bespoke glasses-maker in...

Ludovic Lunetier – bespoke glasses, Brussels

During an event in Brussels last year I met the young glasses-maker Ludovic Elens, who runs Lunetier Ludovic just off Place du Sablon. Ludovic is worth highlighting for many reasons, but most obviously because he is th...

Accessories - GlassesMay 24th 2017

Style Guide – the partners shoot

April 24th 2017

The Style Guide has been wonderfully received so far - at the launch events in London and New York, but also online and through personal messages. Thank you all. There are a few things I realise I haven't emphasised so far. One is that we proudly d...

Style Guide – the partners shoot

The Style Guide has been wonderfully received so far - at the launch events in London and New York, but also online and through personal messages. Thank you all.  There are a few things I realise I haven't emphasised s...

Accessories - Casual wearApril 24th 2017

Japanese craft in Kyoto: Hosoo, Kaikado, Kohchosai ...

April 21st 2017

When I was in Japan at the end of last year, I was keen to see not just menswear crafts, but traditional crafts in other areas as well. Previous articles on swordmaker Sasuke and kimono maker Motoji attest to some of that, but there were also three ...

Japanese craft in Kyoto: Hosoo, Kaikado, Kohchosai ...

When I was in Japan at the end of last year, I was keen to see not just menswear crafts, but traditional crafts in other areas as well. Previous articles on swordmaker Sasuke and kimono maker Motoji attest to some of th...

Accessories - ClothApril 21st 2017

Designing bespoke glasses – General Eyewear, ...

April 19th 2017

Note: General Eyewear now has a store in Soho as well as the Camden HQ - details here. Choosing a block of acetate is not something I’d bet most people have done in their lives. And it’s tricky. Looking at a slab of coloured plastic, an...

Designing bespoke glasses – General Eyewear, ...

Note: General Eyewear now has a store in Soho as well as the Camden HQ -  details here. Choosing a block of acetate is not something I’d bet most people have done in their lives. And it’s tricky. Looking at a slab ...

Accessories - GlassesApril 19th 2017

Brand round-up: R. Culturi, Mes Chaussettes Rouges,...

March 20th 2017

1 R. Culturi There are many brands launching ties or handkerchiefs online these days, given it’s an easy area to try and express something new - and the lack of sizing makes it relatively easy to sell online. One that was shown to me recently ...

Brand round-up: R. Culturi, Mes Chaussettes Rouges,...

1 R. Culturi There are many brands launching ties or handkerchiefs online these days, given it’s an easy area to try and express something new - and the lack of sizing makes it relatively easy to sell online. One that...

Accessories - Casual wearMarch 20th 2017

Stòffa: Beautiful, refined, made-to-measure (and no...

March 15th 2017

Last week, Agyesh Madan of Stòffa visited London for the first time, in a trunk show alongside Marcus Malmborg (Swedish agent for Eidos made-to-measure, among other things). Eidos is more of a known entity, and we will cover the service more ...

Stòffa: Beautiful, refined, made-to-measure (and no...

Last week, Agyesh Madan of Stòffa visited London for the first time, in a trunk show alongside Marcus Malmborg (Swedish agent for Eidos made-to-measure, among other things). Eidos is more of a known entity, and we will...

Accessories - BagsMarch 15th 2017

Robb Report: The beauty of bags, and Japanese artisans

March 14th 2017

The most recent issue of Robb Report UK included a couple of my pieces: a column singing the praises of good leather accessories, and a feature highlighting the Japanese artisans we visited last year. I have reproduced the column below. The detail ...

Robb Report: The beauty of bags, and Japanese artisans

The most recent issue of Robb Report UK included a couple of my pieces: a column singing the praises of good leather accessories, and a feature highlighting the Japanese artisans we visited last year.  I have reproduc...

Accessories - BagsMarch 14th 2017

Baudoin & Lange, Luca Faloni, Hanger Project a...

March 8th 2017

Over the past 10 days I have generally prioritised writing about new brands in our Savile Row pop-up shop. But there are also new developments at makers you will be familiar with - Baudoin & Lange, Luca Faloni, Begg and the Hanger Project -...

Baudoin & Lange, Luca Faloni, Hanger Project a...

Over the past 10 days I have generally prioritised writing about new brands in our Savile Row pop-up shop.  But there are also new developments at makers you will be familiar with - Baudoin & Lange, Luca Faloni, B...

Accessories - LoaferMarch 8th 2017