My Corthays – colours, issues and pleasures

May 1st 2017

I've always had a problem with Corthay shoes. Not so much the style - while many of the designs and colours are too brash for me, I've consistently found interesting light and dark browns to keep me interested. No, th...

My Corthays – colours, issues and pleasures

I've always had a problem with Corthay shoes. Not so much the style - while many of the designs and colours are too brash for me, I've consistently found interesting light and dark browns to keep me interested. No, th...

Boot - DerbyMay 1st 2017

Saint Crispin’s: Relasting, boots and US acti...

December 23rd 2016

The ability - or more perhaps significantly, the willingness - of Saint Crispin's to re-last a pair of shoes is a key part of their attraction. Having a personalised last is great, and arguably better value than bespok...

Saint Crispin’s: Relasting, boots and US acti...

The ability - or more perhaps significantly, the willingness - of Saint Crispin's to re-last a pair of shoes is a key part of their attraction. Having a personalised last is great, and arguably better value than bespok...

Boot - ShoesDecember 23rd 2016

Ludwig Reiter shoes – Factory visit

December 15th 2016

Ludwig Reiter is an old shoemaker used to catering to a wide variety of customers. It sells bags, sandals and trainers alongside oxfords and brogues, for both men and women. Many of the styles also look a little old fas...

Ludwig Reiter shoes – Factory visit

Ludwig Reiter is an old shoemaker used to catering to a wide variety of customers. It sells bags, sandals and trainers alongside oxfords and brogues, for both men and women. Many of the styles also look a little old fas...

Boot - ShoesDecember 15th 2016

Philippe Atienza, bespoke shoemaker, Paris

May 2nd 2016

When I visited shoemaker Philippe Atienza (above) in his new Parisian atelier, back in March, his furniture had just arrived. Some nice chairs, rugs, tables, and a lot of old machinery. He’d been in the space fo...

Philippe Atienza, bespoke shoemaker, Paris

When I visited shoemaker Philippe Atienza (above) in his new Parisian atelier, back in March, his furniture had just arrived. Some nice chairs, rugs, tables, and a lot of old machinery. He’d been in the space fo...

Boot - DerbyMay 2nd 2016

The Rake collaborations

April 21st 2016

I’ve had a few questions from readers as to my views on The Rake’s new collaborations – products that the magazine started selling on its site a couple of months ago. I’ve seen most of them fi...

The Rake collaborations

I’ve had a few questions from readers as to my views on The Rake’s new collaborations – products that the magazine started selling on its site a couple of months ago. I’ve seen most of them fi...

Boot - ScarvesApril 21st 2016

Brio menswear store – Beijing, China

June 15th 2015

  Last month we had a book launch at the Brio menswear store in Beijing. It’s worth running through a few more details of the shop – because the stock is interesting, and because it is part of a pleasi...

Brio menswear store – Beijing, China

  Last month we had a book launch at the Brio menswear store in Beijing. It’s worth running through a few more details of the shop – because the stock is interesting, and because it is part of a pleasi...

Bags - BootJune 15th 2015

How shoes should fit

May 7th 2015

I have received a few questions on this 2009 post about how shoes wear over time recently, and note that there is no post that sets out the basics of how a shoe should fit. Let’s start with a simple summary. A sh...

How shoes should fit

I have received a few questions on this 2009 post about how shoes wear over time recently, and note that there is no post that sets out the basics of how a shoe should fit. Let’s start with a simple summary. A sh...

Boot - How toMay 7th 2015

A bootmaking story: ‘Quality’, by John ...

January 29th 2015

I was recently sent this beautiful little story by John Galsworthy. Although written back in 1911, it has many echoes in the shoemaking of today: an industry everyone thinks is dying; the dignity of those dedicated to ...

A bootmaking story: ‘Quality’, by John ...

I was recently sent this beautiful little story by John Galsworthy. Although written back in 1911, it has many echoes in the shoemaking of today: an industry everyone thinks is dying; the dignity of those dedicated to ...

Boot - ShoesJanuary 29th 2015

Tim Little: bespoke Chelsea boots

December 17th 2014

As mentioned back in October, I recently had a pair of bespoke Chelsea boots made by Tim Little – the owner of Grenson shoes, who also runs a smaller label under his own name. I was interested in Tim’s besp...

Tim Little: bespoke Chelsea boots

As mentioned back in October, I recently had a pair of bespoke Chelsea boots made by Tim Little – the owner of Grenson shoes, who also runs a smaller label under his own name. I was interested in Tim’s besp...

Boot - ShoesDecember 17th 2014

Norman Vilalta: conjuring a boot

November 17th 2014

Norman Vilalta is one of my favourite bespoke artisans. Enthusiastic, talented and down-to-earth. His creations can often be fantastical, but he also does a nice line in conservative shoes with little touches of person...

Norman Vilalta: conjuring a boot

Norman Vilalta is one of my favourite bespoke artisans. Enthusiastic, talented and down-to-earth. His creations can often be fantastical, but he also does a nice line in conservative shoes with little touches of person...

Boot - ShoesNovember 17th 2014

Luxury hiking boots in the FT

December 10th 2013

My latest article in the Financial Times, on luxury hiking boots, was published this weekend. If you’re interested, the post can be found here....

Luxury hiking boots in the FT

My latest article in the Financial Times, on luxury hiking boots, was published this weekend. If you’re interested, the post can be found here....

Boot - ShoesDecember 10th 2013

How bespoke cowboy boots are made: Lee Miller

June 10th 2013

I wrote last week about Lee Miller, one of the best bespoke cowboy-boot makers in the US. Other than the man himself, my prime interest in talking to Lee was the similarities with bespoke dress shoes. The process, I lear...

How bespoke cowboy boots are made: Lee Miller

I wrote last week about Lee Miller, one of the best bespoke cowboy-boot makers in the US. Other than the man himself, my prime interest in talking to Lee was the similarities with bespoke dress shoes. The process, I lear...

Boot - ShoesJune 10th 2013

Lee Miller, bespoke bootmaker, Austin

June 5th 2013

Talking to Lee Miller reminds me what I love about craftsmen. He has that mix of sincerity, humility and zeal that you only seem to find in people who must mix the aesthetic and the functional on a daily basis. Lee is a ...

Lee Miller, bespoke bootmaker, Austin

Talking to Lee Miller reminds me what I love about craftsmen. He has that mix of sincerity, humility and zeal that you only seem to find in people who must mix the aesthetic and the functional on a daily basis. Lee is a ...

Boot - ShoesJune 5th 2013

Cleverley chukka boot – casual wear

August 20th 2012

Speaking as we have been in recent weeks about what to wear outside of a suit – and indeed what to wear with jeans – I thought it interesting to show this Cleverley client, Jason Statham, wearing bespoke chuk...

Cleverley chukka boot – casual wear

Speaking as we have been in recent weeks about what to wear outside of a suit – and indeed what to wear with jeans – I thought it interesting to show this Cleverley client, Jason Statham, wearing bespoke chuk...

Boot - Casual wearAugust 20th 2012

Review: Edward Green Top Drawer boots

November 18th 2011

I ordered my first pair of Top Drawer boots from Edward Green back in January and they arrived in May, which is a little better than average for made-to-order shoes from the Northampton makers in my experience. I ordered...

Review: Edward Green Top Drawer boots

I ordered my first pair of Top Drawer boots from Edward Green back in January and they arrived in May, which is a little better than average for made-to-order shoes from the Northampton makers in my experience. I ordered...

Boot - ShoesNovember 18th 2011

Beautiful semi-bespoke boots from Rivolta

July 19th 2010

Back in October last year I was introduced to a new/old shoe brand called Rivolta. A Milanese name that goes back to the 1880s, it was forced to close down in the seventies, only to be restarted last year with an interes...

Beautiful semi-bespoke boots from Rivolta

Back in October last year I was introduced to a new/old shoe brand called Rivolta. A Milanese name that goes back to the 1880s, it was forced to close down in the seventies, only to be restarted last year with an interes...

Boot - ShoesJuly 19th 2010

Final boots from Cliff Roberts

November 18th 2009

I have written previously about the boots being made for me by Cliff Roberts, an old hand of Northampton shoemaking who started making his own shoes from his conservatory recently. Well, I finally took delivery of them t...

Final boots from Cliff Roberts

I have written previously about the boots being made for me by Cliff Roberts, an old hand of Northampton shoemaking who started making his own shoes from his conservatory recently. Well, I finally took delivery of them t...

Boot - ShoesNovember 18th 2009

Handmade boots from Cliff

October 8th 2009

Twelve weeks ago I commissioned a pair of boots from Cliff Roberts, a shoemaker from Northampton who used to work for one of the big outfits there and is now based at home. He makes handmade shoes (lastmaking and closing...

Handmade boots from Cliff

Twelve weeks ago I commissioned a pair of boots from Cliff Roberts, a shoemaker from Northampton who used to work for one of the big outfits there and is now based at home. He makes handmade shoes (lastmaking and closing...

Boot - ShoesOctober 8th 2009

Rivolta: A brave innovation in bespoke

October 2nd 2009

Milan can easily be underrated by men who love classic style. Given the choice of Italian cities to visit, they would always pick Naples – the home of soft tailoring, that very distinctive shoulder and companies li...

Rivolta: A brave innovation in bespoke

Milan can easily be underrated by men who love classic style. Given the choice of Italian cities to visit, they would always pick Naples – the home of soft tailoring, that very distinctive shoulder and companies li...

Boot - ShoesOctober 2nd 2009