The appeal of workwear, and my favourite pieces

November 12th 2018

Although tailoring is my primary passion, I’ve always worn clothing that these days would be grouped under the term ‘workwear’ on the weekend. Good denim, obviously, but also sweatshirts, waxed boots and canvas trousers. Some of th...

The appeal of workwear, and my favourite pieces

Although tailoring is my primary passion, I’ve always worn clothing that these days would be grouped under the term ‘workwear’ on the weekend. Good denim, obviously, but also sweatshirts, waxed boots and canvas tr...

Bags - BootNovember 12th 2018

Introducing: The PS Bridge Coat

October 31st 2018

* For updates and stock please see the shop page*   Of all the things I’ve developed or helped develop over the past few years, the PS Trench Coat was one of the most satisfying. That was partly because it seemed to fill a particular ...

Introducing: The PS Bridge Coat

* For updates and stock please see the shop page*   Of all the things I’ve developed or helped develop over the past few years, the PS Trench Coat was one of the most satisfying. That was partly because it seemed...

Boot - KnitwearOctober 31st 2018

Our Spring/Summer Top 10, 2018

May 2nd 2018

Last week a friend in the industry asked me what aspect of writing Permanent Style I like the most. It is always, easily, discovering a new tailor, cloth or product that is different and inspiring. That journey from discovering something new, to see...

Our Spring/Summer Top 10, 2018

Last week a friend in the industry asked me what aspect of writing Permanent Style I like the most. It is always, easily, discovering a new tailor, cloth or product that is different and inspiring. That journey from dis...

Accessories - BagsMay 2nd 2018

Field jacket, rollneck and flannels

December 11th 2017

A few readers last week asked about this outfit I included in our 'High/low dressing' post. It's a combination I love, and shamelessly copied from an Italian gentleman I saw in Milan a few years ago. Men should never be afraid of taking inspiration ...

Field jacket, rollneck and flannels

A few readers last week asked about this outfit I included in our 'High/low dressing' post. It's a combination I love, and shamelessly copied from an Italian gentleman I saw in Milan a few years ago. Men should never be...

Boot - Casual jacketsDecember 11th 2017

Begg, J. Girdwood and The Rake (Chapal, Sciamat, 10...

December 1st 2017

First off, I need to mention that the J.Girdwood website is finally up and active. Anyone that has been into the first or second pop-ups will have seen James (above) and his J.Girdwood range of products. They include some Permanent Style favourites...

Begg, J. Girdwood and The Rake (Chapal, Sciamat, 10...

First off, I need to mention that the J.Girdwood website is finally up and active.  Anyone that has been into the first or second pop-ups will have seen James (above) and his J.Girdwood range of products. They include ...

Accessories - BootDecember 1st 2017

Enzo Bonafe hand-welted shoes – factory visit

October 16th 2017

Enzo Bonafe is one of only two men’s shoe factories left in the area around Bologna, Italy. The other is Testoni, and when Enzo left Testoni to set up his own factory, in 1963, there were more than 40 factories in the region. It has been a rap...

Enzo Bonafe hand-welted shoes – factory visit

Enzo Bonafe is one of only two men’s shoe factories left in the area around Bologna, Italy. The other is Testoni, and when Enzo left Testoni to set up his own factory, in 1963, there were more than 40 factories in th...

Boot - ShoesOctober 16th 2017

My desk

July 5th 2017

Many readers said they liked the personal, behind-the-scenes approach of Plaza Uomo's cover story on me last year. Here, then, is another angle. My desk, where I write most of these posts, and therefore probably the most important Permanent Style-r...

My desk

Many readers said they liked the personal, behind-the-scenes approach of Plaza Uomo's cover story on me last year.  Here, then, is another angle. My desk, where I write most of these posts, and therefore probably the m...

Accessories - BootJuly 5th 2017

Stivaleria Savoia: Bespoke shoemaker, Milan

June 23rd 2017

Stivaleria Savoia is an old Milanese bespoke bootmaker ( stivaleria means bootmaker, and it was founded by craftsmen who made for the Savoia, or Savoy, cavalry). The designs are classic and practical, and unlikely to set any Instagram feeds alight. ...

Stivaleria Savoia: Bespoke shoemaker, Milan

Stivaleria Savoia is an old Milanese bespoke bootmaker ( stivaleria means bootmaker, and it was founded by craftsmen who made for the Savoia, or Savoy, cavalry). The designs are classic and practical, and unlikely to s...

Boot - ShoesJune 23rd 2017

My Corthays – colours, issues and pleasures

May 1st 2017

I've always had a problem with Corthay shoes. Not so much the style - while many of the designs and colours are too brash for me, I've consistently found interesting light and dark browns to keep me interested. No, the big issue has been the last ...

My Corthays – colours, issues and pleasures

I've always had a problem with Corthay shoes.  Not so much the style - while many of the designs and colours are too brash for me, I've consistently found interesting light and dark browns to keep me interested.  No...

Boot - DerbyMay 1st 2017

Saint Crispin’s: Relasting, boots and US acti...

December 23rd 2016

The ability - or more perhaps significantly, the willingness - of Saint Crispin's to re-last a pair of shoes is a key part of their attraction. Having a personalised last is great, and arguably better value than bespoke, but as with bespoke it can ...

Saint Crispin’s: Relasting, boots and US acti...

The ability - or more perhaps significantly, the willingness - of Saint Crispin's to re-last a pair of shoes is a key part of their attraction.  Having a personalised last is great, and arguably better value than besp...

Boot - ShoesDecember 23rd 2016

Ludwig Reiter shoes – Factory visit

December 15th 2016

Ludwig Reiter is an old shoemaker used to catering to a wide variety of customers. It sells bags, sandals and trainers alongside oxfords and brogues, for both men and women. Many of the styles also look a little old fashioned, but there are some hid...

Ludwig Reiter shoes – Factory visit

Ludwig Reiter is an old shoemaker used to catering to a wide variety of customers. It sells bags, sandals and trainers alongside oxfords and brogues, for both men and women. Many of the styles also look a little old fas...

Boot - ShoesDecember 15th 2016

Philippe Atienza, bespoke shoemaker, Paris

May 2nd 2016

When I visited shoemaker Philippe Atienza (above) in his new Parisian atelier, back in March, his furniture had just arrived. Some nice chairs, rugs, tables, and a lot of old machinery. He’d been in the space for three weeks, but it was fina...

Philippe Atienza, bespoke shoemaker, Paris

   When I visited shoemaker Philippe Atienza (above) in his new Parisian atelier, back in March, his furniture had just arrived. Some nice chairs, rugs, tables, and a lot of old machinery. He’d been in the space for ...

Boot - DerbyMay 2nd 2016

The Rake collaborations

April 21st 2016

I’ve had a few questions from readers as to my views on The Rake’s new collaborations – products that the magazine started selling on its site a couple of months ago. I’ve seen most of them first hand, inde...

The Rake collaborations

   I’ve had a few questions from readers as to my views on The Rake’s new collaborations – products that the magazine started selling on its site a couple of months ago.  I’ve seen most of th...

Boot - ScarvesApril 21st 2016

Brio menswear store – Beijing, China

June 15th 2015

  Last month we had a book launch at the Brio menswear store in Beijing. It’s worth running through a few more details of the shop – because the stock is interesting, and because it is part of a pleasing trend in more s...

Brio menswear store – Beijing, China

    Last month we had a book launch at the Brio menswear store in Beijing. It’s worth running through a few more details of the shop – because the stock is interesting, and because it is part of a pleas...

Bags - BootJune 15th 2015

How shoes should fit

May 7th 2015

I have received a few questions on this 2009 post about how shoes wear over time recently, and note that there is no post that sets out the basics of how a shoe should fit. Let’s start with a simple summary. A shoe should be tight at the ...

How shoes should fit

  I have received a few questions on this 2009 post about how shoes wear over time recently, and note that there is no post that sets out the basics of how a shoe should fit. Let’s start with a simple summary. A s...

Boot - How toMay 7th 2015

A bootmaking story: ‘Quality’, by John ...

January 29th 2015

I was recently sent this beautiful little story by John Galsworthy. Although written back in 1911, it has many echoes in the shoemaking of today: an industry everyone thinks is dying; the dignity of those dedicated to their craft; even the R...

A bootmaking story: ‘Quality’, by John ...

  I was recently sent this beautiful little story by John Galsworthy. Although written back in 1911, it has many echoes in the shoemaking of today: an industry everyone thinks is dying; the dignity of those dedicated t...

Boot - ShoesJanuary 29th 2015

Tim Little: bespoke Chelsea boots

December 17th 2014

As mentioned back in October, I recently had a pair of bespoke Chelsea boots made by Tim Little – the owner of Grenson shoes, who also runs a smaller label under his own name. I was interested in Tim’s bespoke offering primarily for the...

Tim Little: bespoke Chelsea boots

  As mentioned back in October, I recently had a pair of bespoke Chelsea boots made by Tim Little – the owner of Grenson shoes, who also runs a smaller label under his own name. I was interested in Tim’s bespoke off...

Boot - ShoesDecember 17th 2014

Norman Vilalta: conjuring a boot

November 17th 2014

Norman Vilalta is one of my favourite bespoke artisans. Enthusiastic, talented and down-to-earth. His creations can often be fantastical, but he also does a nice line in conservative shoes with little touches of personality. Earlier this year we h...

Norman Vilalta: conjuring a boot

  Norman Vilalta is one of my favourite bespoke artisans. Enthusiastic, talented and down-to-earth. His creations can often be fantastical, but he also does a nice line in conservative shoes with little touches of pers...

Boot - ShoesNovember 17th 2014

Luxury hiking boots in the FT

December 10th 2013

My latest article in the Financial Times, on luxury hiking boots, was published this weekend. If you’re interested, the post can be found here.

Luxury hiking boots in the FT

My latest article in the Financial Times, on luxury hiking boots, was published this weekend.  If you’re interested, the post can be found here....

Boot - ShoesDecember 10th 2013

How bespoke cowboy boots are made: Lee Miller

June 10th 2013

I wrote last week about Lee Miller, one of the best bespoke cowboy-boot makers in the US. Other than the man himself, my prime interest in talking to Lee was the similarities with bespoke dress shoes. The process, I learnt, is largely the same but wi...

How bespoke cowboy boots are made: Lee Miller

I wrote last week about Lee Miller, one of the best bespoke cowboy-boot makers in the US. Other than the man himself, my prime interest in talking to Lee was the similarities with bespoke dress shoes. The process, I lear...

Boot - ShoesJune 10th 2013

Lee Miller, bespoke bootmaker, Austin

June 5th 2013

Talking to Lee Miller reminds me what I love about craftsmen. He has that mix of sincerity, humility and zeal that you only seem to find in people who must mix the aesthetic and the functional on a daily basis. Lee is a maker of bespoke cowboy boots ...

Lee Miller, bespoke bootmaker, Austin

Talking to Lee Miller reminds me what I love about craftsmen. He has that mix of sincerity, humility and zeal that you only seem to find in people who must mix the aesthetic and the functional on a daily basis. Lee is a ...

Boot - ShoesJune 5th 2013

Cleverley chukka boot – casual wear

August 20th 2012

Speaking as we have been in recent weeks about what to wear outside of a suit – and indeed what to wear with jeans – I thought it interesting to show this Cleverley client, Jason Statham, wearing bespoke chukka boots with jeans re...

Cleverley chukka boot – casual wear

Speaking as we have been in recent weeks about what to wear outside of a suit – and indeed what to wear with jeans – I thought it interesting to show this Cleverley client, Jason Statham, wearing bespoke chuk...

Boot - Casual wearAugust 20th 2012

Review: Edward Green Top Drawer boots

November 18th 2011

I ordered my first pair of Top Drawer boots from Edward Green back in January and they arrived in May, which is a little better than average for made-to-order shoes from the Northampton makers in my experience. I ordered Compton boots in a new brown ...

Review: Edward Green Top Drawer boots

I ordered my first pair of Top Drawer boots from Edward Green back in January and they arrived in May, which is a little better than average for made-to-order shoes from the Northampton makers in my experience. I ordered...

Boot - ShoesNovember 18th 2011

Beautiful semi-bespoke boots from Rivolta

July 19th 2010

Back in October last year I was introduced to a new/old shoe brand called Rivolta. A Milanese name that goes back to the 1880s, it was forced to close down in the seventies, only to be restarted last year with an interesting twist – they propos...

Beautiful semi-bespoke boots from Rivolta

Back in October last year I was introduced to a new/old shoe brand called Rivolta. A Milanese name that goes back to the 1880s, it was forced to close down in the seventies, only to be restarted last year with an interes...

Boot - ShoesJuly 19th 2010

Final boots from Cliff Roberts

November 18th 2009

I have written previously about the boots being made for me by Cliff Roberts, an old hand of Northampton shoemaking who started making his own shoes from his conservatory recently. Well, I finally took delivery of them this past weekend. Cliff was ki...

Final boots from Cliff Roberts

I have written previously about the boots being made for me by Cliff Roberts, an old hand of Northampton shoemaking who started making his own shoes from his conservatory recently. Well, I finally took delivery of them t...

Boot - ShoesNovember 18th 2009