My seasonal selection on No Man Walks Alone

December 18th 2016

Earlier this week, No Man Walks Alone published a piece I wrote for them while in New York, selecting my favourite pieces from the stacked shelves of their NY showroom. This is something we started with the Spring/Summ...

My seasonal selection on No Man Walks Alone

Earlier this week, No Man Walks Alone published a piece I wrote for them while in New York, selecting my favourite pieces from the stacked shelves of their NY showroom. This is something we started with the Spring/Summ...

Casual jackets - Casual wearDecember 18th 2016

Review: Craftsman Co made-to-measure suede jacket

November 23rd 2016

A couple of months ago I started the process of trialling Craftsman Co, a new and small Hong Kong-based company that is making leather and suede jackets. The process was smooth and well run, but the end results were a l...

Review: Craftsman Co made-to-measure suede jacket

A couple of months ago I started the process of trialling Craftsman Co, a new and small Hong Kong-based company that is making leather and suede jackets. The process was smooth and well run, but the end results were a l...

Casual jackets - Casual wearNovember 23rd 2016

Ethan Newton’s Tokyo store – Bryceland&...

November 4th 2016

I was quite intrigued to see Ethan Newton’s Bryceland's store in Tokyo when we visited a few weeks ago. In particular, how he is presenting his view on tailoring and how that mixes with the more casual americana s...

Ethan Newton’s Tokyo store – Bryceland&...

I was quite intrigued to see Ethan Newton’s Bryceland's store in Tokyo when we visited a few weeks ago. In particular, how he is presenting his view on tailoring and how that mixes with the more casual americana s...

Bags - Casual jacketsNovember 4th 2016

The corduroy suit

September 9th 2016

I have a friend who wears what he calls ‘knockabout’ suits. How exactly he knocks about in them I don’t know, but the meaning is clear: these are casual suits, that don’t belong in a formal envir...

The corduroy suit

I have a friend who wears what he calls ‘knockabout’ suits. How exactly he knocks about in them I don’t know, but the meaning is clear: these are casual suits, that don’t belong in a formal envir...

Casual jackets - ClothSeptember 9th 2016

Chapal made-to-measure leather jacket, Paris

September 5th 2016

Fans of vintage clothing should love Chapal. They’re using the same leathers, the same linings, the same hardware they supplied to the French and US airforces 100 years ago. When I wrote about fellow French leathe...

Chapal made-to-measure leather jacket, Paris

Fans of vintage clothing should love Chapal. They’re using the same leathers, the same linings, the same hardware they supplied to the French and US airforces 100 years ago. When I wrote about fellow French leathe...

Casual jackets - Casual wearSeptember 5th 2016

The suede blouson for travel

August 10th 2016

Blousons come in many shapes and sizes, but they are united by a short length, fuller body and collar. Blousons work particularly well with higher-waisted tailored trousers, and for that reason make a great casual alte...

The suede blouson for travel

Blousons come in many shapes and sizes, but they are united by a short length, fuller body and collar. Blousons work particularly well with higher-waisted tailored trousers, and for that reason make a great casual alte...

Accessories - Casual jacketsAugust 10th 2016

Holiday snaps: Linen bomber, cotton trousers, espad...

August 1st 2016

A brief post today, with some pictures from holiday. Casual but still classic in cut and colour, and catering to the heat. First, above, 'Dani' espadrilles from La Portegna. I'm still in two minds about these, after a...

Holiday snaps: Linen bomber, cotton trousers, espad...

A brief post today, with some pictures from holiday. Casual but still classic in cut and colour, and catering to the heat. First, above, 'Dani' espadrilles from La Portegna. I'm still in two minds about these, after a...

Accessories - Casual jacketsAugust 1st 2016

Colour combinations, from casual to formal

May 31st 2016

The colour combinations that we discuss every week in regards to formal wear, can be applied just as readily to casual wear. Although there will always be elements that don't crossover (such as the immense versatility ...

Colour combinations, from casual to formal

The colour combinations that we discuss every week in regards to formal wear, can be applied just as readily to casual wear. Although there will always be elements that don't crossover (such as the immense versatility ...

Casual jackets - Casual wearMay 31st 2016

Seraphin leather jackets – factory visit

April 15th 2016

I love visiting factories. Always have done. The Best of British book made use of a lot of factory visits I did in the first five years of the blog – to Corgi, Dent’s, Sunspel etc. And The Finest Menswear...

Seraphin leather jackets – factory visit

I love visiting factories. Always have done. The Best of British book made use of a lot of factory visits I did in the first five years of the blog – to Corgi, Dent’s, Sunspel etc. And The Finest Menswear...

Casual jackets - Casual wearApril 15th 2016

Drake’s soft, stylish jackets

March 30th 2016

Drake’s will always be best known for their ties, then handkerchiefs, then perhaps knitwear. But for the past few years they have also been doing a nice little range of jackets in the Clifford Street store that ...

Drake’s soft, stylish jackets

Drake’s will always be best known for their ties, then handkerchiefs, then perhaps knitwear. But for the past few years they have also been doing a nice little range of jackets in the Clifford Street store that ...

Casual jackets - JacketsMarch 30th 2016

Bespoke suede jacket – Cifonelli

March 14th 2016

This finished suede jacket from Cifonelli shows the beautiful breadth of what bespoke tailoring can do. Bespoke is not just for business suits; it is not just for casual jackets; it is for anything that benefits from...

Bespoke suede jacket – Cifonelli

This finished suede jacket from Cifonelli shows the beautiful breadth of what bespoke tailoring can do. Bespoke is not just for business suits; it is not just for casual jackets; it is for anything that benefits from...

Casual jackets - Casual wearMarch 14th 2016

Seraphin leather jackets, Paris

March 9th 2016

France is blessed with some of the finest makers of leather jackets in the world. There are very few around Europe that retain their own manufacturing; and of those, most are low-volume makers that stand out for their...

Seraphin leather jackets, Paris

France is blessed with some of the finest makers of leather jackets in the world. There are very few around Europe that retain their own manufacturing; and of those, most are low-volume makers that stand out for their...

Casual jackets - Casual wearMarch 9th 2016

The in-between (pub, weekend) jacket from Stile Latino

January 1st 2016

As on Wednesday, so today. A piece made to measure by Neapolitan brand Stile Latino, with similar attractions. As with the completely unstructured coat we featured on Wednesday, this jacket is: An effective bridge be...

The in-between (pub, weekend) jacket from Stile Latino

As on Wednesday, so today. A piece made to measure by Neapolitan brand Stile Latino, with similar attractions. As with the completely unstructured coat we featured on Wednesday, this jacket is: An effective bridge be...

Casual jackets - Casual wearJanuary 1st 2016

Making a bespoke suede jacket

December 1st 2015

Quite a few people asked how my suede Cifonelli jacket was being made – on the blog, on Instagram, on Facebook. And by email, with two separate tailors asking for advice to make one for their clients. Key to th...

Making a bespoke suede jacket

Quite a few people asked how my suede Cifonelli jacket was being made – on the blog, on Instagram, on Facebook. And by email, with two separate tailors asking for advice to make one for their clients. Key to th...

Casual jackets - Casual wearDecember 1st 2015

Cifonelli bespoke suede jacket

October 23rd 2015

One area that fascinates me – perhaps more than any other – in my writing is the overlap between formal tailoring and more casual dress. If it is possible to retain the beautiful craft aspects of bespoke t...

Cifonelli bespoke suede jacket

One area that fascinates me – perhaps more than any other – in my writing is the overlap between formal tailoring and more casual dress. If it is possible to retain the beautiful craft aspects of bespoke t...

Casual jackets - Casual wearOctober 23rd 2015

Wearing a jacket and jeans

October 12th 2015

If there is one question men ask more than any other, it is how to wear a jacket with jeans. Behind this usually lies a desire to dress up an outfit without appearing too up-tight. Friends in the creative or digital i...

Wearing a jacket and jeans

If there is one question men ask more than any other, it is how to wear a jacket with jeans. Behind this usually lies a desire to dress up an outfit without appearing too up-tight. Friends in the creative or digital i...

Casual jackets - Casual wearOctober 12th 2015

Bespoke gilet with Davide Taub

August 28th 2015

Some of my best, certainly my most original bespoke projects have been undertaken with Davide Taub, head cutter at Gieves & Hawkes. Regular readers will remember the bespoke leather jacket we made together in 2013...

Bespoke gilet with Davide Taub

Some of my best, certainly my most original bespoke projects have been undertaken with Davide Taub, head cutter at Gieves & Hawkes. Regular readers will remember the bespoke leather jacket we made together in 2013...

Casual jackets - Casual wearAugust 28th 2015

Casual tie and sports jacket (military donegal deni...

August 17th 2015

In the spirit of our recent posts on assembling outfits, here’s the process that put this one together. Originating idea: I’ve always liked the way this pale, silk tie from Ralph Lauren goes with my Rubin...

Casual tie and sports jacket (military donegal deni...

In the spirit of our recent posts on assembling outfits, here’s the process that put this one together. Originating idea: I’ve always liked the way this pale, silk tie from Ralph Lauren goes with my Rubin...

Casual jackets - Casual wearAugust 17th 2015

Chapal leather jackets, France

July 29th 2015

Chapal are a old, high-quality French producer of leather jackets and coats. They make a few things that won’t be to readers’ tastes (T-shirts, painted chairs) but it’s worth turning a blind eye to th...

Chapal leather jackets, France

Chapal are a old, high-quality French producer of leather jackets and coats. They make a few things that won’t be to readers’ tastes (T-shirts, painted chairs) but it’s worth turning a blind eye to th...

Casual jackets - Casual wearJuly 29th 2015

The versatility of a gilet

April 10th 2015

The most useful articles of clothing are often those that cover core of the body – waistcoats (knitted or woven), gilets, and to an extent scarves. It is they that make a lightweight outfit warm enough, or enable...

The versatility of a gilet

The most useful articles of clothing are often those that cover core of the body – waistcoats (knitted or woven), gilets, and to an extent scarves. It is they that make a lightweight outfit warm enough, or enable...

Casual jackets - Casual wearApril 10th 2015

Talking through the Barbour archive

March 27th 2015

Gary Janes, the head of design and development at Barbour, talks us through two of the earliest pieces in the Barbour archive – from the beginning of the twentieth century. The design has stayed remarkably consis...

Talking through the Barbour archive

Gary Janes, the head of design and development at Barbour, talks us through two of the earliest pieces in the Barbour archive – from the beginning of the twentieth century. The design has stayed remarkably consis...

Casual jackets - Casual wearMarch 27th 2015

The subtlety of a suede jacket

March 25th 2015

Loro Piana I’ve been pleased to see that suede has enjoyed something of a renaissance in recent years. Italians like Loro Piana have always done it well – often in a classic Italian mix of brown suede and gre...

The subtlety of a suede jacket

Loro Piana I’ve been pleased to see that suede has enjoyed something of a renaissance in recent years. Italians like Loro Piana have always done it well – often in a classic Italian mix of brown suede and gre...

Casual jackets - Casual wearMarch 25th 2015

Barbour: The archive

March 16th 2015

Although my opinion of Barbour was much raised by seeing the repairs department last month, the highlight of that trip was the archive. The oldest piece (below) is from 1910 – a simple, knee-length double-breast...

Barbour: The archive

Although my opinion of Barbour was much raised by seeing the repairs department last month, the highlight of that trip was the archive. The oldest piece (below) is from 1910 – a simple, knee-length double-breast...

Casual jackets - Casual wearMarch 16th 2015

Barbour: Factory and repairs

March 4th 2015

Barbour is not quite the level of craft or quality that we normally feature on Permanent Style. However, rather like US brand Filson that we covered recently, they deserve mention for the beautiful way they age and the...

Barbour: Factory and repairs

Barbour is not quite the level of craft or quality that we normally feature on Permanent Style. However, rather like US brand Filson that we covered recently, they deserve mention for the beautiful way they age and the...

Casual jackets - Casual wearMarch 4th 2015

In front of the Barbour beacon

March 2nd 2015

Last week three of us visited the Barbour factory in South Shields, in the name of a new book on British heritage brands. Given we were researching the stories behind the companies, it was natural to stay next to the ...

In front of the Barbour beacon

Last week three of us visited the Barbour factory in South Shields, in the name of a new book on British heritage brands. Given we were researching the stories behind the companies, it was natural to stay next to the ...

Casual jackets - Casual wearMarch 2nd 2015

How a Mackintosh is made

December 10th 2014

How is a Mackintosh made? With an odd, perhaps appealingly simple process: cut out pieces of bonded cotton and stick them together with blobs of glue, using your fingers. A few weeks ago Luke and I visited one of the t...

How a Mackintosh is made

How is a Mackintosh made? With an odd, perhaps appealingly simple process: cut out pieces of bonded cotton and stick them together with blobs of glue, using your fingers. A few weeks ago Luke and I visited one of the t...

Casual jackets - Casual wearDecember 10th 2014

When we write about… Private White VC

November 19th 2014

As part of the series on new shop openings in London, today we’re focusing on Private White VC – the British factory and brand founded by James Eden in 2007, but with a new shop on Duke Street and a much-ex...

When we write about… Private White VC

As part of the series on new shop openings in London, today we’re focusing on Private White VC – the British factory and brand founded by James Eden in 2007, but with a new shop on Duke Street and a much-ex...

Casual jackets - Casual wearNovember 19th 2014

The Row’s new clothing – 1. Hardy Amies

October 27th 2014

Over the next few months there is going to be a plethora of ready-to-wear shops opening that are in some way inspired by tailoring. Hardy Amies has just opened; then there’s E Tautz; Kilgour will have a full coll...

The Row’s new clothing – 1. Hardy Amies

Over the next few months there is going to be a plethora of ready-to-wear shops opening that are in some way inspired by tailoring. Hardy Amies has just opened; then there’s E Tautz; Kilgour will have a full coll...

Casual jackets - Casual wearOctober 27th 2014

Budd bespoke safari jacket

July 31st 2014

My l atest column for How to Spent It is on a safari jacket made recently with Budd. An interesting project, there will be more about it on Permanent Style next month. In the meantime you can read about the background...

Budd bespoke safari jacket

My l atest column for How to Spent It is on a safari jacket made recently with Budd. An interesting project, there will be more about it on Permanent Style next month. In the meantime you can read about the background...

Casual jackets - Casual wearJuly 31st 2014

How great things age: Levi’s ‘big ER...

June 11th 2014

Denim is really beautiful in the way it frays and fades. Most cotton twills used for workwear age in this way – losing their saturation at wear points as the surface dye rubs away. But the thickness and indigo dy...

How great things age: Levi’s ‘big ER...

Denim is really beautiful in the way it frays and fades. Most cotton twills used for workwear age in this way – losing their saturation at wear points as the surface dye rubs away. But the thickness and indigo dy...

Casual jackets - Casual wearJune 11th 2014

Cashmere, denim and fresco

June 5th 2014

In response to a couple of requests from readers, here is that photograph from the Asprey workrooms in colour. Navy cashmere jacket from Solito. Dark-brown horn buttons that I bought myself from Weldon’s (Italian...

Cashmere, denim and fresco

In response to a couple of requests from readers, here is that photograph from the Asprey workrooms in colour. Navy cashmere jacket from Solito. Dark-brown horn buttons that I bought myself from Weldon’s (Italian...

Casual jackets - Casual wearJune 5th 2014

How great things age: Barbour motorcycle jacket

May 23rd 2014

During my recent series of posts on Levi’s bespoke jeans, a reader commented that he didn’t like denim because it didn’t drape like wool, linen or other materials commonly used for suiting. He’...

How great things age: Barbour motorcycle jacket

During my recent series of posts on Levi’s bespoke jeans, a reader commented that he didn’t like denim because it didn’t drape like wool, linen or other materials commonly used for suiting. He’...

Casual jackets - Casual wearMay 23rd 2014

Neapolitan tweed jacket – Elia Caliendo

February 26th 2014

  This Neapolitan tweed jacket – made recently for me by Elia Caliendo – is perhaps the perfect update of an English classic. Tweed is a wonderful material – tough, soft and highly wind- and water...

Neapolitan tweed jacket – Elia Caliendo

  This Neapolitan tweed jacket – made recently for me by Elia Caliendo – is perhaps the perfect update of an English classic. Tweed is a wonderful material – tough, soft and highly wind- and water...

Casual jackets - Casual wearFebruary 26th 2014

Eggert – Icelandic fur

January 6th 2014

I have never been a big fan of fur. Not for any ethical reason, but simply because I have rarely found pieces that are subtle enough to appeal to me. The lambskin coat above, before you raise a quizzical eyebrow, does no...

Eggert – Icelandic fur

I have never been a big fan of fur. Not for any ethical reason, but simply because I have rarely found pieces that are subtle enough to appeal to me. The lambskin coat above, before you raise a quizzical eyebrow, does no...

Accessories - Casual jacketsJanuary 6th 2014

RRL: Vintage outerwear and modern fit

November 27th 2013

If I have an addiction outside of tailoring, it is not shoes or ties but outerwear. Leather jackets, suede blousons, trench coats: I love the ability of such big pieces to radically change a look and a silhouette. Leathe...

RRL: Vintage outerwear and modern fit

If I have an addiction outside of tailoring, it is not shoes or ties but outerwear. Leather jackets, suede blousons, trench coats: I love the ability of such big pieces to radically change a look and a silhouette. Leathe...

Casual jackets - Casual wearNovember 27th 2013

Three good, three bad

November 15th 2013

I don’t often write negative things about brands. There are so many great things to write about, and I generally prefer to simply not cover them than write something negative. Perhaps, as Spanish readers suggested ...

Three good, three bad

I don’t often write negative things about brands. There are so many great things to write about, and I generally prefer to simply not cover them than write something negative. Perhaps, as Spanish readers suggested ...

Casual jackets - Casual wearNovember 15th 2013

The bespoke pea coat – Part 1

November 6th 2013

A few weeks ago, Davide (Taub, cutter at Gieves & Hawkes) and I began working on another bespoke project, following the leather jacket we completed back in August. This time we decided to tackle the pea coat. I...

The bespoke pea coat – Part 1

A few weeks ago, Davide (Taub, cutter at Gieves & Hawkes) and I began working on another bespoke project, following the leather jacket we completed back in August. This time we decided to tackle the pea coat. I...

Casual jackets - Casual wearNovember 6th 2013

The bespoke leather jacket: Part 6

August 28th 2013

Following the post earlier in the week on my finished leather jacket from Gieves, here are a few of the construction and design details. There is no hand stitching, as on most leather products, other than working a rela...

The bespoke leather jacket: Part 6

Following the post earlier in the week on my finished leather jacket from Gieves, here are a few of the construction and design details. There is no hand stitching, as on most leather products, other than working a rela...

Casual jackets - Casual wearAugust 28th 2013

The bespoke leather jacket: Part 5

August 26th 2013

The finished leather jacket. This bespoke project from Gieves & Hawkes has progressed quite quickly compared to tailoring, but it still feels like an age since Davide and I first conceived of the idea. Most of all, ...

The bespoke leather jacket: Part 5

The finished leather jacket. This bespoke project from Gieves & Hawkes has progressed quite quickly compared to tailoring, but it still feels like an age since Davide and I first conceived of the idea. Most of all, ...

Casual jackets - Casual wearAugust 26th 2013

The bespoke leather jacket: Part 4

August 19th 2013

The hardest thing about having my bespoke leather jacket made over the past couple of months has been not seeing the raw material. With a bespoke suit, you are fitted in the actual cloth and gradually see it take shape. ...

The bespoke leather jacket: Part 4

The hardest thing about having my bespoke leather jacket made over the past couple of months has been not seeing the raw material. With a bespoke suit, you are fitted in the actual cloth and gradually see it take shape. ...

Casual jackets - Casual wearAugust 19th 2013

The bespoke leather jacket: Part 3

August 7th 2013

This was the third and final fitting for my Gieves leather jacket. There had been one in between this and the first fitting, but only a few minor adjustments were made. Then, for the final look, Davide used a new piece o...

The bespoke leather jacket: Part 3

This was the third and final fitting for my Gieves leather jacket. There had been one in between this and the first fitting, but only a few minor adjustments were made. Then, for the final look, Davide used a new piece o...

Casual jackets - Casual wearAugust 7th 2013

The bespoke leather jacket: Part 2

July 19th 2013

This is my first fitting on the bespoke leather jacket being made by Davide Taub of Gieves & Hawkes. I already have a suit pattern at Gieves, having had a travel blazer made there a couple of years ago, and Davide h...

The bespoke leather jacket: Part 2

This is my first fitting on the bespoke leather jacket being made by Davide Taub of Gieves & Hawkes. I already have a suit pattern at Gieves, having had a travel blazer made there a couple of years ago, and Davide h...

Casual jackets - Casual wearJuly 19th 2013

The bespoke leather jacket: Part 1

July 11th 2013

There are very few bespoke tailors I would have faith in to explore an entirely new style or new medium. They include Lorenzo Cifonelli, Davide Taub and Rubinacci (Luca plus cutter). Many more, although highly innovative...

The bespoke leather jacket: Part 1

There are very few bespoke tailors I would have faith in to explore an entirely new style or new medium. They include Lorenzo Cifonelli, Davide Taub and Rubinacci (Luca plus cutter). Many more, although highly innovative...

Casual jackets - Casual wearJuly 11th 2013

House of Billiam – bespoke varsity jackets

November 28th 2012

Normal.dotm 0 0 1 447 2551 Euromoney PLC 21 5 3132 12.0 0 false 18 pt 18 pt 0 0 false false false There is another side to the fashion industry that is more interesting than catwalks and cheap manufacture. Small designer...

House of Billiam – bespoke varsity jackets

Normal.dotm 0 0 1 447 2551 Euromoney PLC 21 5 3132 12.0 0 false 18 pt 18 pt 0 0 false false false There is another side to the fashion industry that is more interesting than catwalks and cheap manufacture. Small designer...

Casual jackets - Casual wearNovember 28th 2012

Barbour video: the factory and the aftercare

September 13th 2012

I love this video made in the Barbour factory and the homes of some of its long-term customers. Barbours are great for patination – a fancy word for ‘dirt’ in this case – and I didn’t realis...

Barbour video: the factory and the aftercare

I love this video made in the Barbour factory and the homes of some of its long-term customers. Barbours are great for patination – a fancy word for ‘dirt’ in this case – and I didn’t realis...

Casual jackets - Casual wearSeptember 13th 2012

Wear a jacket or trousers at the weekend

February 1st 2012

I know a few men who have discovered an interest in clothes in recent years – primarily suits, shirts, ties, good shoes. The working wardrobe, essentially. They know about the canvas in a jacket’s chest; they...

Wear a jacket or trousers at the weekend

I know a few men who have discovered an interest in clothes in recent years – primarily suits, shirts, ties, good shoes. The working wardrobe, essentially. They know about the canvas in a jacket’s chest; they...

Casual jackets - Casual wearFebruary 1st 2012

Two very different jackets and jeans

November 4th 2008

When a jacket-and-jeans combination works well, it is one of the most stylish outfits a man can wear, successfully bridging the casual and the formal, and merging the best elements of both. It is, however, hard to get ri...

Two very different jackets and jeans

When a jacket-and-jeans combination works well, it is one of the most stylish outfits a man can wear, successfully bridging the casual and the formal, and merging the best elements of both. It is, however, hard to get ri...

Casual jackets - Casual wearNovember 4th 2008