Reflections on bespoke: Stoffa, Richard James, Camp...

January 1st 2018

One thing readers asked for in our 'We are 10' post was more reflections on bespoke pieces. When covering bespoke, I tend to write both an initial piece giving the background and approach of the maker, and then a fuller review when the piece is read...

Reflections on bespoke: Stoffa, Richard James, Camp...

One thing readers asked for in our 'We are 10' post was more reflections on bespoke pieces. When covering bespoke, I tend to write both an initial piece giving the background and approach of the maker, and then a fuller...

Casual jackets - JacketsJanuary 1st 2018

A casual capsule: The Valstarino jacket three ways

December 21st 2017

The blouson in general, but particularly in brown and especially in brown suede, has to be one of the most versatile pieces in a man's wardrobe. The shape is short and neat enough to work well with smarter clothing; suede suggests a more dressy look...

A casual capsule: The Valstarino jacket three ways

The blouson in general, but particularly in brown and especially in brown suede, has to be one of the most versatile pieces in a man's wardrobe. The shape is short and neat enough to work well with smarter clothing; su...

Casual jackets - DenimDecember 21st 2017

Codis Maya and The Workers Club – in the pop-up

December 14th 2017

It really is a lovely feeling walking into the pop-up shop for a new week. There’s Carmen from Camiseria Burgos in Madrid, whom I haven’t seen for five years, pretty much. Next to her is Benedikt from Shibumi, lining up his ties with his...

Codis Maya and The Workers Club – in the pop-up

It really is a lovely feeling walking into the pop-up shop for a new week. There’s Carmen from Camiseria Burgos in Madrid, whom I haven’t seen for five years, pretty much. Next to her is Benedikt from Shibumi, linin...

Casual jackets - DenimDecember 14th 2017

Field jacket, rollneck and flannels

December 11th 2017

A few readers last week asked about this outfit I included in our 'High/low dressing' post. It's a combination I love, and shamelessly copied from an Italian gentleman I saw in Milan a few years ago. Men should never be afraid of taking inspiration ...

Field jacket, rollneck and flannels

A few readers last week asked about this outfit I included in our 'High/low dressing' post. It's a combination I love, and shamelessly copied from an Italian gentleman I saw in Milan a few years ago. Men should never be...

Casual jackets - KnitwearDecember 11th 2017

Begg, J. Girdwood and The Rake (Chapal, Sciamat, 10...

December 1st 2017

First off, I need to mention that the J.Girdwood website is finally up and active. Anyone that has been into the first or second pop-ups will have seen James (above) and his J.Girdwood range of products. They include some Permanent Style favourites...

Begg, J. Girdwood and The Rake (Chapal, Sciamat, 10...

First off, I need to mention that the J.Girdwood website is finally up and active.  Anyone that has been into the first or second pop-ups will have seen James (above) and his J.Girdwood range of products. They include ...

Casual jackets - Hanks and scarvesDecember 1st 2017

Cromford Leather: Update, workshop, and vintage jac...

November 7th 2017

Since I first wrote about Cromford Leather nine months ago, I’ve been using them consistently for leather alterations. I thought it was worth a catch-up piece, therefore. It's also a nice opportunity to show their workshop in the basement, inc...

Cromford Leather: Update, workshop, and vintage jac...

Since I first wrote about Cromford Leather nine months ago, I’ve been using them consistently for leather alterations. I thought it was worth a catch-up piece, therefore. It's also a nice opportunity to show their ...

Casual jacketsNovember 7th 2017

Sartoria Melina bespoke leather jacket – Review

October 9th 2017

My leather jacket from Sartoria Melina arrived a couple of weeks ago, and I’m relieved to say the fit is good and the product excellent. I was rather worried at the fitting we had in Naples, because the canvas toile they had created was rather...

Sartoria Melina bespoke leather jacket – Review

My leather jacket from Sartoria Melina arrived a couple of weeks ago, and I’m relieved to say the fit is good and the product excellent. I was rather worried at the fitting we had in Naples, because the canvas toile t...

Casual jacketsOctober 9th 2017

Sartoria Melina – bespoke Neapolitan leather

September 4th 2017

As regular readers will know, I am a big fan of leather and suede outerwear - whether from the superfine Seraphin, historic Chapal or uber-modern Stoffa. I have tried, used and love them all. When it comes to tailored jackets, however, I want to sti...

Sartoria Melina – bespoke Neapolitan leather

As regular readers will know, I am a big fan of leather and suede outerwear - whether from the superfine Seraphin, historic Chapal or uber-modern Stoffa. I have tried, used and love them all. When it comes to tailored j...

Casual jackets - JacketsSeptember 4th 2017

Sage green and tobacco brown – earthy summer

August 11th 2017

Finding new colour combinations I like makes me disproportionately happy. I know this doesn’t apply to every menswear enthusiast, but for me the interrelationship of colours is one of the most enjoyable and creative aspects of dress. Particula...

Sage green and tobacco brown – earthy summer

Finding new colour combinations I like makes me disproportionately happy. I know this doesn’t apply to every menswear enthusiast, but for me the interrelationship of colours is one of the most enjoyable and creative a...

Casual jackets - StyleAugust 11th 2017

What I pack when I travel

July 19th 2017

As I return from two summer trips - one for a week in Florence, the other a week in Naples - it seems a fitting time to run through what I pack for trips such as these. I know readers have asked about it in the past. Of course, any travelling wardro...

What I pack when I travel

As I return from two summer trips - one for a week in Florence, the other a week in Naples - it seems a fitting time to run through what I pack for trips such as these. I know readers have asked about it in the past. Of...

Bags - Casual jacketsJuly 19th 2017

Connolly: Style and fashion meet on Clifford Street

July 14th 2017

Connolly, which opened on Clifford Street at the end of last year, is one of the most interesting new menswear stores London has had for a while. It offers luxury clothing, both under its own name and a few European brands ( Charvet, Car Shoe, Stile...

Connolly: Style and fashion meet on Clifford Street

Connolly, which opened on Clifford Street at the end of last year, is one of the most interesting new menswear stores London has had for a while. It offers luxury clothing, both under its own name and a few European bra...

Bags - Belts and walletsJuly 14th 2017

Stoffa suede flight jacket – Review

June 9th 2017

Readers will be familiar with how excited I was about trying Stoffa - the made-to-measure company run by ex-Isaia man Agyesh Madan - now he is doing trunk shows in London. Agyesh's aesthetic is beautiful, simple and modern, with jackets and trouser...

Stoffa suede flight jacket – Review

Readers will be familiar with how excited I was about trying Stoffa - the made-to-measure company run by ex-Isaia man Agyesh Madan - now he is doing trunk shows in London.  Agyesh's aesthetic is beautiful, simple and m...

Casual jacketsJune 9th 2017

Anglo-Italian: Jake Grantham and Alex Pirounis open...

May 26th 2017

Last night was the (soft) opening of Anglo-Italian, the new shop in London being run by ex-Armoury buddies Jake Grantham and Alex Pirounis. It’s been a long time coming. Various events have slowed things down, and even last night the mirrors w...

Anglo-Italian: Jake Grantham and Alex Pirounis open...

Last night was the (soft) opening of Anglo-Italian, the new shop in London being run by ex-Armoury buddies Jake Grantham and Alex Pirounis. It’s been a long time coming. Various events have slowed things down, and eve...

Casual jackets - DenimMay 26th 2017

Summer colours: Tobacco and tan

May 12th 2017

Shades of tobacco and tan are one of the loveliest things to wear in the Summer. As the weather warms up, I've put together three outfits here - all somewhere in the 5 to 7 formality range - that illustrate this. They are displayed on my wonderf...

Summer colours: Tobacco and tan

  Shades of tobacco and tan are one of the loveliest things to wear in the Summer.  As the weather warms up, I've put together three outfits here - all somewhere in the 5 to 7 formality range - that illustrate this....

Casual jackets - DenimMay 12th 2017

Shorts, slubs and natural colours: My pieces from N...

May 7th 2017

As is now customary (after three seasons we can say that, right?) I picked out my favourite 10 pieces from No Man Walks Alone's stock last week. I took advantage of being in New York to go through most things in person, and there are therefore some...

Shorts, slubs and natural colours: My pieces from N...

As is now customary (after three seasons we can say that, right?) I picked out my favourite 10 pieces from No Man Walks Alone's stock last week.  I took advantage of being in New York to go through most things in perso...

Casual jackets - KnitwearMay 7th 2017

The versatile outerwear of The Workers Club

April 17th 2017

It never fails to surprise me how little magazines analyse product when they cover a brand. An article is more likely to be about the founders and their story than the product itself - setting it in context, comparing it to its peers, analysing both...

The versatile outerwear of The Workers Club

It never fails to surprise me how little magazines analyse product when they cover a brand. An article is more likely to be about the founders and their story than the product itself - setting it in context, comparing ...

Casual jacketsApril 17th 2017

Skoaktiebolaget and Stoffa in How To Spend It

April 15th 2017

He looks pretty suave doesn't he? Got a good lean on. Patrick at Swedish shoe shop Skoaktiebolaget recently posed for an article of mine, above, in How To Spend It magazine. (A supplement of the Financial Times, and arguably the top luxury publicat...

Skoaktiebolaget and Stoffa in How To Spend It

He looks pretty suave doesn't he? Got a good lean on.  Patrick at Swedish shoe shop Skoaktiebolaget recently posed for an article of mine, above, in How To Spend It magazine. (A supplement of the Financial Times, and ...

Casual jackets - ShoesApril 15th 2017

Stòffa: Beautiful, refined, made-to-measure (and no...

March 15th 2017

Last week, Agyesh Madan of Stòffa visited London for the first time, in a trunk show alongside Marcus Malmborg (Swedish agent for Eidos made-to-measure, among other things). Eidos is more of a known entity, and we will cover the service more ...

Stòffa: Beautiful, refined, made-to-measure (and no...

Last week, Agyesh Madan of Stòffa visited London for the first time, in a trunk show alongside Marcus Malmborg (Swedish agent for Eidos made-to-measure, among other things). Eidos is more of a known entity, and we will...

Bags - Casual jacketsMarch 15th 2017

Cromford: Leather jacket alterations and bespoke

February 13th 2017

At the end of last year I got to know the new owners of the General Leather Company on Chiltern Street - now renamed Cromford Leather. This was exciting because they not only make leather and suede jackets on the premises, but undertake alterations ...

Cromford: Leather jacket alterations and bespoke

At the end of last year I got to know the new owners of the General Leather Company on Chiltern Street - now renamed Cromford Leather. This was exciting because they not only make leather and suede jackets on the premis...

Casual jacketsFebruary 13th 2017

My seasonal selection on No Man Walks Alone

December 18th 2016

Earlier this week, No Man Walks Alone published a piece I wrote for them while in New York, selecting my favourite pieces from the stacked shelves of their NY showroom. This is something we started with the Spring/Summer range back in May, and prov...

My seasonal selection on No Man Walks Alone

Earlier this week, No Man Walks Alone published a piece I wrote for them while in New York, selecting my favourite pieces from the stacked shelves of their NY showroom.  This is something we started with the Spring/Sum...

Casual jackets - TrousersDecember 18th 2016

Review: Craftsman Co made-to-measure suede jacket

November 23rd 2016

A couple of months ago I started the process of trialling Craftsman Co, a new and small Hong Kong-based company that is making leather and suede jackets. The process was smooth and well run, but the end results were a little mixed: good but not perf...

Review: Craftsman Co made-to-measure suede jacket

A couple of months ago I started the process of trialling Craftsman Co, a new and small Hong Kong-based company that is making leather and suede jackets. The process was smooth and well run, but the end results were a l...

Casual jacketsNovember 23rd 2016

Ethan Newton’s Tokyo store – Bryceland&...

November 4th 2016

I was quite intrigued to see Ethan Newton’s Bryceland's store in Tokyo when we visited a few weeks ago. In particular, how he is presenting his view on tailoring and how that mixes with the more casual americana side. The tailoring is essentia...

Ethan Newton’s Tokyo store – Bryceland&...

I was quite intrigued to see Ethan Newton’s Bryceland's store in Tokyo when we visited a few weeks ago. In particular, how he is presenting his view on tailoring and how that mixes with the more casual americana side....

Bags - Casual jacketsNovember 4th 2016

The corduroy suit

September 9th 2016

I have a friend who wears what he calls ‘knockabout’ suits. How exactly he knocks about in them I don’t know, but the meaning is clear: these are casual suits, that don’t belong in a formal environment like an office. Most no...

The corduroy suit

I have a friend who wears what he calls ‘knockabout’ suits. How exactly he knocks about in them I don’t know, but the meaning is clear: these are casual suits, that don’t belong in a formal environment like an o...

Casual jackets - ClothSeptember 9th 2016

Chapal made-to-measure leather jacket, Paris

September 5th 2016

Fans of vintage clothing should love Chapal. They’re using the same leathers, the same linings, the same hardware they supplied to the French and US airforces 100 years ago. When I wrote about fellow French leather-specialist Seraphin earlier ...

Chapal made-to-measure leather jacket, Paris

Fans of vintage clothing should love Chapal. They’re using the same leathers, the same linings, the same hardware they supplied to the French and US airforces 100 years ago. When I wrote about fellow French leather-sp...

Casual jacketsSeptember 5th 2016

The suede blouson for travel

August 10th 2016

Blousons come in many shapes and sizes, but they are united by a short length, fuller body and collar. Blousons work particularly well with higher-waisted tailored trousers, and for that reason make a great casual alternative to a tailored jacket. ...

The suede blouson for travel

Blousons come in many shapes and sizes, but they are united by a short length, fuller body and collar.  Blousons work particularly well with higher-waisted tailored trousers, and for that reason make a great casual alt...

Casual jackets - Glasses and jewelleryAugust 10th 2016