Harris Tweed waistcoat, Richard James

January 9th 2017

Although we discussed last week that the fit of a jacket is the most important - and flattering - part of tailoring, a waistcoat is in some ways the most satisfying. Of all the tailored garments, it is the one that sit...

Harris Tweed waistcoat, Richard James

Although we discussed last week that the fit of a jacket is the most important - and flattering - part of tailoring, a waistcoat is in some ways the most satisfying. Of all the tailored garments, it is the one that sit...

Casual wear - TailoringJanuary 9th 2017

The sweater over the shoulders

January 4th 2017

We took this picture of Patrick Johnson, founder of P Johnson, last month. It occurred to me at the time how hard it is to wear a sweater over the shoulders, as Patrick does. It's something I rarely do, and it's probabl...

The sweater over the shoulders

We took this picture of Patrick Johnson, founder of P Johnson, last month. It occurred to me at the time how hard it is to wear a sweater over the shoulders, as Patrick does. It's something I rarely do, and it's probabl...

Casual wear - KnitwearJanuary 4th 2017

Private White VC – Factory visit

December 30th 2016

I don’t write about Private White anywhere near enough. I did a piece last year on their outerwear, which remains their best category, but frankly you could a separate post on almost every coat they sell. The Twin...

Private White VC – Factory visit

I don’t write about Private White anywhere near enough. I did a piece last year on their outerwear, which remains their best category, but frankly you could a separate post on almost every coat they sell. The Twin...

Casual wearDecember 30th 2016

How sartorial principles can apply to casual clothing

December 19th 2016

This outfit, which was shot for the recent cover story of Plaza Uomo magazine, is probably one of the most casual ever featured on Permanent Style. Much like the first image of our popular ‘ Which office are you?&...

How sartorial principles can apply to casual clothing

This outfit, which was shot for the recent cover story of Plaza Uomo magazine, is probably one of the most casual ever featured on Permanent Style. Much like the first image of our popular ‘ Which office are you?&...

Casual wear - HatsDecember 19th 2016

My seasonal selection on No Man Walks Alone

December 18th 2016

Earlier this week, No Man Walks Alone published a piece I wrote for them while in New York, selecting my favourite pieces from the stacked shelves of their NY showroom. This is something we started with the Spring/Summ...

My seasonal selection on No Man Walks Alone

Earlier this week, No Man Walks Alone published a piece I wrote for them while in New York, selecting my favourite pieces from the stacked shelves of their NY showroom. This is something we started with the Spring/Summ...

Casual jackets - Casual wearDecember 18th 2016

Brand round-up: Alexander Kraft, Loic et Gil, Chris...

November 25th 2016

The next in our regular installment of small brands doing interesting things looks at some ties, handkerchiefs and knitwear. Viola Milano x Alexander Kraft First up is a collaboration between Alexander Kraft and online ...

Brand round-up: Alexander Kraft, Loic et Gil, Chris...

The next in our regular installment of small brands doing interesting things looks at some ties, handkerchiefs and knitwear. Viola Milano x Alexander Kraft First up is a collaboration between Alexander Kraft and online ...

Accessories - Casual wearNovember 25th 2016

Review: Craftsman Co made-to-measure suede jacket

November 23rd 2016

A couple of months ago I started the process of trialling Craftsman Co, a new and small Hong Kong-based company that is making leather and suede jackets. The process was smooth and well run, but the end results were a l...

Review: Craftsman Co made-to-measure suede jacket

A couple of months ago I started the process of trialling Craftsman Co, a new and small Hong Kong-based company that is making leather and suede jackets. The process was smooth and well run, but the end results were a l...

Casual jackets - Casual wearNovember 23rd 2016

Ethan Newton’s Tokyo store – Bryceland&...

November 4th 2016

I was quite intrigued to see Ethan Newton’s Bryceland's store in Tokyo when we visited a few weeks ago. In particular, how he is presenting his view on tailoring and how that mixes with the more casual americana s...

Ethan Newton’s Tokyo store – Bryceland&...

I was quite intrigued to see Ethan Newton’s Bryceland's store in Tokyo when we visited a few weeks ago. In particular, how he is presenting his view on tailoring and how that mixes with the more casual americana s...

Bags - Casual jacketsNovember 4th 2016

Luca Faloni knitwear – a high-quality staple

October 21st 2016

For the past four months I’ve been wearing and trying out the knitwear of Luca Faloni - an Italian with an online store based here in London. Luca offers quite a broad range of things, including leather goods, sca...

Luca Faloni knitwear – a high-quality staple

For the past four months I’ve been wearing and trying out the knitwear of Luca Faloni - an Italian with an online store based here in London. Luca offers quite a broad range of things, including leather goods, sca...

Casual wear - KnitwearOctober 21st 2016

Repairing, darning and reviving cashmere: Love Cash...

October 7th 2016

Few things given me more pleasure than looking after good clothes, and being rewarded with a better-lasting and even better-looking wardrobe. This happens most obviously with leather products like shoes and bags, and ar...

Repairing, darning and reviving cashmere: Love Cash...

Few things given me more pleasure than looking after good clothes, and being rewarded with a better-lasting and even better-looking wardrobe. This happens most obviously with leather products like shoes and bags, and ar...

Casual wear - KnitwearOctober 7th 2016

Ballantyne/Berk cashmere available again

October 2nd 2016

UPDATE: Original article published in 2013 The article in the bottom of this post was originally published in September 2013, when Berk in the Burlington Arcade was closing. Ballantyne, the factory, was shutting do...

Ballantyne/Berk cashmere available again

UPDATE: Original article published in 2013 The article in the bottom of this post was originally published in September 2013, when Berk in the Burlington Arcade was closing. Ballantyne, the factory, was shutting do...

Casual wear - KnitwearOctober 2nd 2016

The corduroy suit

September 9th 2016

I have a friend who wears what he calls ‘knockabout’ suits. How exactly he knocks about in them I don’t know, but the meaning is clear: these are casual suits, that don’t belong in a formal envir...

The corduroy suit

I have a friend who wears what he calls ‘knockabout’ suits. How exactly he knocks about in them I don’t know, but the meaning is clear: these are casual suits, that don’t belong in a formal envir...

Casual jackets - ClothSeptember 9th 2016

Chapal made-to-measure leather jacket, Paris

September 5th 2016

Fans of vintage clothing should love Chapal. They’re using the same leathers, the same linings, the same hardware they supplied to the French and US airforces 100 years ago. When I wrote about fellow French leathe...

Chapal made-to-measure leather jacket, Paris

Fans of vintage clothing should love Chapal. They’re using the same leathers, the same linings, the same hardware they supplied to the French and US airforces 100 years ago. When I wrote about fellow French leathe...

Casual jackets - Casual wearSeptember 5th 2016

Chinos, loafers and a sports jacket (or sweater)

August 29th 2016

Those on the Drake’s mailing list may have seen this outfit on Friday, accompanying an article on their new trouser range. To fill in the details: the olive Drake’s chinos were worn with a white lightweight ...

Chinos, loafers and a sports jacket (or sweater)

Those on the Drake’s mailing list may have seen this outfit on Friday, accompanying an article on their new trouser range. To fill in the details: the olive Drake’s chinos were worn with a white lightweight ...

Casual wear - JacketsAugust 29th 2016

The suede blouson for travel

August 10th 2016

Blousons come in many shapes and sizes, but they are united by a short length, fuller body and collar. Blousons work particularly well with higher-waisted tailored trousers, and for that reason make a great casual alte...

The suede blouson for travel

Blousons come in many shapes and sizes, but they are united by a short length, fuller body and collar. Blousons work particularly well with higher-waisted tailored trousers, and for that reason make a great casual alte...

Accessories - Casual jacketsAugust 10th 2016

Johnston’s of Elgin: Factory visit

August 8th 2016

The following is an extract from my book Best of British: The Stories Behind Britain’s Iconic Brands , published by Prestel. Dedicated copies are available to buy here – Johnstons of Elgin It has survived tw...

Johnston’s of Elgin: Factory visit

The following is an extract from my book Best of British: The Stories Behind Britain’s Iconic Brands , published by Prestel. Dedicated copies are available to buy here – Johnstons of Elgin It has survived tw...

Casual wear - Factory visitsAugust 8th 2016

Holiday snaps: Linen bomber, cotton trousers, espad...

August 1st 2016

A brief post today, with some pictures from holiday. Casual but still classic in cut and colour, and catering to the heat. First, above, 'Dani' espadrilles from La Portegna. I'm still in two minds about these, after a...

Holiday snaps: Linen bomber, cotton trousers, espad...

A brief post today, with some pictures from holiday. Casual but still classic in cut and colour, and catering to the heat. First, above, 'Dani' espadrilles from La Portegna. I'm still in two minds about these, after a...

Accessories - Casual jacketsAugust 1st 2016

Combining smart and casual clothing

July 18th 2016

One of the central themes of Permanent Style over the past nine years has been the desire to make tailoring relevant to a new generation. To explore the ways in which the suit or jacket can transition from formal busine...

Combining smart and casual clothing

One of the central themes of Permanent Style over the past nine years has been the desire to make tailoring relevant to a new generation. To explore the ways in which the suit or jacket can transition from formal busine...

Casual wear - HandkerchiefsJuly 18th 2016

Introducing: The short-sleeved Friday Polo

July 13th 2016

* Sold Out * A new iteration of our Friday Polo is available from today on the Permanent Style shop: a short-sleeved model for the summer. It is made in the same Caccioppoli piqué cotton as the long-sleeved polo...

Introducing: The short-sleeved Friday Polo

* Sold Out * A new iteration of our Friday Polo is available from today on the Permanent Style shop: a short-sleeved model for the summer. It is made in the same Caccioppoli piqué cotton as the long-sleeved polo...

PolosJuly 13th 2016

Modern running brands: Tracksmith, Soar, Iffley Road

July 11th 2016

For a long time, men's running clothing has been pretty poor - dominated by a few big brands, with few design options and sold largely off the basis of celebrity endorsement. That has started to change in recent years,...

Modern running brands: Tracksmith, Soar, Iffley Road

For a long time, men's running clothing has been pretty poor - dominated by a few big brands, with few design options and sold largely off the basis of celebrity endorsement. That has started to change in recent years,...

Casual wearJuly 11th 2016

Video: Cycling and style

June 25th 2016

In case anyone's interested in my views on cycling and style - particularly the crossover between technical innovation and luxury - here's a video of an interview I did with Konrad Olsson during Pitti. Konrad is the edi...

Video: Cycling and style

In case anyone's interested in my views on cycling and style - particularly the crossover between technical innovation and luxury - here's a video of an interview I did with Konrad Olsson during Pitti. Konrad is the edi...

Casual wearJune 25th 2016

How to dress for summer – Reader question

June 15th 2016

Simon, Would you be willing to do a post on (casual) summer dressing? It’s the area of dress I struggle with the most. Every time I go on summer/spring holidays I find myself browsing through the internet looking ...

How to dress for summer – Reader question

Simon, Would you be willing to do a post on (casual) summer dressing? It’s the area of dress I struggle with the most. Every time I go on summer/spring holidays I find myself browsing through the internet looking ...

Casual wear - KnitwearJune 15th 2016

Brand round-up: Inhedited, Coast Society, J Hopenst...

June 10th 2016

Our latest brand round-up includes some positive and some mixed reviews - reflecting both the quality of new things seen and tested by Permanent Style, and their originality. 1 Inhedited www.inhedited.com From £25...

Brand round-up: Inhedited, Coast Society, J Hopenst...

Our latest brand round-up includes some positive and some mixed reviews - reflecting both the quality of new things seen and tested by Permanent Style, and their originality. 1 Inhedited www.inhedited.com From £25...

Accessories - BagsJune 10th 2016

Levi’s bespoke jeans – Update and 501st...

June 6th 2016

Two years ago, I wrote enthusiastically about the launch of Levi’s bespoke denim service - Lot No.1. Here was the prospect of getting perfectly fitting jeans, in exactly the cut you wanted, made by a Row-trained c...

Levi’s bespoke jeans – Update and 501st...

Two years ago, I wrote enthusiastically about the launch of Levi’s bespoke denim service - Lot No.1. Here was the prospect of getting perfectly fitting jeans, in exactly the cut you wanted, made by a Row-trained c...

Casual wear - DenimJune 6th 2016

Colour combinations, from casual to formal

May 31st 2016

The colour combinations that we discuss every week in regards to formal wear, can be applied just as readily to casual wear. Although there will always be elements that don't crossover (such as the immense versatility ...

Colour combinations, from casual to formal

The colour combinations that we discuss every week in regards to formal wear, can be applied just as readily to casual wear. Although there will always be elements that don't crossover (such as the immense versatility ...

Casual jackets - Casual wearMay 31st 2016

Black suede shoes, and cream knitwear

May 20th 2016

Yesterday's post raised a few questions about other aspects of the outfit - specifically the black suede shoes and cream-coloured cardigan. I think it's interested to discuss both together, for stylistically they have ...

Black suede shoes, and cream knitwear

Yesterday's post raised a few questions about other aspects of the outfit - specifically the black suede shoes and cream-coloured cardigan. I think it's interested to discuss both together, for stylistically they have ...

Casual wear - DerbyMay 20th 2016

My favourite pieces on No Man Walks Alone

May 13th 2016

Greg at No Man Walks Alone asked me last week to write an article picking out my favourite pieces from their new stock. You can see the article here. Generally I focus on style advice, given there is often already som...

My favourite pieces on No Man Walks Alone

Greg at No Man Walks Alone asked me last week to write an article picking out my favourite pieces from their new stock. You can see the article here. Generally I focus on style advice, given there is often already som...

Casual wearMay 13th 2016

How to wear trainers – 1: What to buy

April 20th 2016

Designer trainers – or sneakers as our American friends call them – are all the rage. A cynic would say that’s because brands have realised they can make big margins on a cheap, lightly designed pro...

How to wear trainers – 1: What to buy

Designer trainers – or sneakers as our American friends call them – are all the rage. A cynic would say that’s because brands have realised they can make big margins on a cheap, lightly designed pro...

Casual wear - LoaferApril 20th 2016

Seraphin leather jackets – factory visit

April 15th 2016

I love visiting factories. Always have done. The Best of British book made use of a lot of factory visits I did in the first five years of the blog – to Corgi, Dent’s, Sunspel etc. And The Finest Menswear...

Seraphin leather jackets – factory visit

I love visiting factories. Always have done. The Best of British book made use of a lot of factory visits I did in the first five years of the blog – to Corgi, Dent’s, Sunspel etc. And The Finest Menswear...

Casual jackets - Casual wearApril 15th 2016

Drake’s soft, stylish jackets

March 30th 2016

Drake’s will always be best known for their ties, then handkerchiefs, then perhaps knitwear. But for the past few years they have also been doing a nice little range of jackets in the Clifford Street store that ...

Drake’s soft, stylish jackets

Drake’s will always be best known for their ties, then handkerchiefs, then perhaps knitwear. But for the past few years they have also been doing a nice little range of jackets in the Clifford Street store that ...

Casual jackets - JacketsMarch 30th 2016

Final bespoke gilet, Davide Taub at Gieves & H...

March 28th 2016

Last August I began this project with Davide Taub, head cutter at Gieves & Hawkes, to create a bespoke gilet that could be buttoned into a variety of jackets. I think it’s fair to say the project has been l...

Final bespoke gilet, Davide Taub at Gieves & H...

Last August I began this project with Davide Taub, head cutter at Gieves & Hawkes, to create a bespoke gilet that could be buttoned into a variety of jackets. I think it’s fair to say the project has been l...

Casual wearMarch 28th 2016

Bespoke suede jacket – Cifonelli

March 14th 2016

This finished suede jacket from Cifonelli shows the beautiful breadth of what bespoke tailoring can do. Bespoke is not just for business suits; it is not just for casual jackets; it is for anything that benefits from...

Bespoke suede jacket – Cifonelli

This finished suede jacket from Cifonelli shows the beautiful breadth of what bespoke tailoring can do. Bespoke is not just for business suits; it is not just for casual jackets; it is for anything that benefits from...

Casual jackets - Casual wearMarch 14th 2016

Seraphin leather jackets, Paris

March 9th 2016

France is blessed with some of the finest makers of leather jackets in the world. There are very few around Europe that retain their own manufacturing; and of those, most are low-volume makers that stand out for their...

Seraphin leather jackets, Paris

France is blessed with some of the finest makers of leather jackets in the world. There are very few around Europe that retain their own manufacturing; and of those, most are low-volume makers that stand out for their...

Casual jackets - Casual wearMarch 9th 2016

The Friday Polo – next batch available

March 2nd 2016

*Stock is now very limited. For the current position please check the Shop page* I’m pleased to say that the next batch of our Friday Polos – handmade in Naples and designed by us here in London –...

The Friday Polo – next batch available

*Stock is now very limited. For the current position please check the Shop page* I’m pleased to say that the next batch of our Friday Polos – handmade in Naples and designed by us here in London –...

Casual wear - OxfordMarch 2nd 2016

Sheep to shop – Private White in Manchester

February 20th 2016

This is a nice little video by Private White VC, the superb British brand and manufacturer. It’s heavy on atmosphere rather than craft details, but there’s a lot in there readers will identify with. It als...

Sheep to shop – Private White in Manchester

This is a nice little video by Private White VC, the superb British brand and manufacturer. It’s heavy on atmosphere rather than craft details, but there’s a lot in there readers will identify with. It als...

Casual wear - Factory visitsFebruary 20th 2016

Brands review III: Son of a Tailor, d’Alember...

February 5th 2016

This has become a Permanent Style feature in the past couple of years. An opportunity to mention the dozens of brands that email asking me to review their product, but never get a full post because they don’t qu...

Brands review III: Son of a Tailor, d’Alember...

This has become a Permanent Style feature in the past couple of years. An opportunity to mention the dozens of brands that email asking me to review their product, but never get a full post because they don’t qu...

Belts and wallets - GlassesFebruary 5th 2016

Commuting by bike – what to keep in the office

January 28th 2016

In my recent post on a handkerchief capsule collection, there were quite a few questions about commuting to work by bike. They can be summarised as: What should I keep in the office, and at home? How do I rotate them ...

Commuting by bike – what to keep in the office

In my recent post on a handkerchief capsule collection, there were quite a few questions about commuting to work by bike. They can be summarised as: What should I keep in the office, and at home? How do I rotate them ...

Casual wear - How toJanuary 28th 2016

The in-between (pub, weekend) jacket from Stile Latino

January 1st 2016

As on Wednesday, so today. A piece made to measure by Neapolitan brand Stile Latino, with similar attractions. As with the completely unstructured coat we featured on Wednesday, this jacket is: An effective bridge be...

The in-between (pub, weekend) jacket from Stile Latino

As on Wednesday, so today. A piece made to measure by Neapolitan brand Stile Latino, with similar attractions. As with the completely unstructured coat we featured on Wednesday, this jacket is: An effective bridge be...

Casual jackets - Casual wearJanuary 1st 2016

Interview: Pier-Luigi Loro Piana

December 23rd 2015

Long-time readers will know how much of a fan I am of Loro Piana. In particular, of their marked commitment to quality compared to other designers – even if that comes with the same big-brand prices. I’ve w...

Interview: Pier-Luigi Loro Piana

Long-time readers will know how much of a fan I am of Loro Piana. In particular, of their marked commitment to quality compared to other designers – even if that comes with the same big-brand prices. I’ve w...

KnitwearDecember 23rd 2015

Making a bespoke suede jacket

December 1st 2015

Quite a few people asked how my suede Cifonelli jacket was being made – on the blog, on Instagram, on Facebook. And by email, with two separate tailors asking for advice to make one for their clients. Key to th...

Making a bespoke suede jacket

Quite a few people asked how my suede Cifonelli jacket was being made – on the blog, on Instagram, on Facebook. And by email, with two separate tailors asking for advice to make one for their clients. Key to th...

Casual jackets - Casual wearDecember 1st 2015

Cifonelli bespoke suede jacket

October 23rd 2015

One area that fascinates me – perhaps more than any other – in my writing is the overlap between formal tailoring and more casual dress. If it is possible to retain the beautiful craft aspects of bespoke t...

Cifonelli bespoke suede jacket

One area that fascinates me – perhaps more than any other – in my writing is the overlap between formal tailoring and more casual dress. If it is possible to retain the beautiful craft aspects of bespoke t...

Casual jackets - Casual wearOctober 23rd 2015

Wearing a jacket and jeans

October 12th 2015

If there is one question men ask more than any other, it is how to wear a jacket with jeans. Behind this usually lies a desire to dress up an outfit without appearing too up-tight. Friends in the creative or digital i...

Wearing a jacket and jeans

If there is one question men ask more than any other, it is how to wear a jacket with jeans. Behind this usually lies a desire to dress up an outfit without appearing too up-tight. Friends in the creative or digital i...

Casual jackets - Casual wearOctober 12th 2015

The Friday Polo – next batch available

September 30th 2015

The next batch of our Friday Polos, designed by myself and Neapolitan shirtmaker Luca Avitabile, are now available to order and be sent out. As we described in our first post on this collaboration, these long-sleeved...

The Friday Polo – next batch available

The next batch of our Friday Polos, designed by myself and Neapolitan shirtmaker Luca Avitabile, are now available to order and be sent out. As we described in our first post on this collaboration, these long-sleeved...

Casual wear - PolosSeptember 30th 2015

Bespoke gilet with Davide Taub

August 28th 2015

Some of my best, certainly my most original bespoke projects have been undertaken with Davide Taub, head cutter at Gieves & Hawkes. Regular readers will remember the bespoke leather jacket we made together in 2013...

Bespoke gilet with Davide Taub

Some of my best, certainly my most original bespoke projects have been undertaken with Davide Taub, head cutter at Gieves & Hawkes. Regular readers will remember the bespoke leather jacket we made together in 2013...

Casual jackets - Casual wearAugust 28th 2015

Merz b Schwanen loopwheeler knitwear

August 24th 2015

German brand Merz b Schwanen has changed quite a lot since it was taken over Peter Plotnicki (below), having been bought up, moved production and overhauled its product. But thankfully the changes have been in cut and ...

Merz b Schwanen loopwheeler knitwear

German brand Merz b Schwanen has changed quite a lot since it was taken over Peter Plotnicki (below), having been bought up, moved production and overhauled its product. But thankfully the changes have been in cut and ...

Casual wear - KnitwearAugust 24th 2015

Casual tie and sports jacket (military donegal deni...

August 17th 2015

In the spirit of our recent posts on assembling outfits, here’s the process that put this one together. Originating idea: I’ve always liked the way this pale, silk tie from Ralph Lauren goes with my Rubin...

Casual tie and sports jacket (military donegal deni...

In the spirit of our recent posts on assembling outfits, here’s the process that put this one together. Originating idea: I’ve always liked the way this pale, silk tie from Ralph Lauren goes with my Rubin...

Casual jackets - Casual wearAugust 17th 2015

Chapal leather jackets, France

July 29th 2015

Chapal are a old, high-quality French producer of leather jackets and coats. They make a few things that won’t be to readers’ tastes (T-shirts, painted chairs) but it’s worth turning a blind eye to th...

Chapal leather jackets, France

Chapal are a old, high-quality French producer of leather jackets and coats. They make a few things that won’t be to readers’ tastes (T-shirts, painted chairs) but it’s worth turning a blind eye to th...

Casual jackets - Casual wearJuly 29th 2015

The Friday Polo – limited availabilty now

July 11th 2015

**Available to buy here** Over the past few months I’ve been working with shirtmarker Luca Avitabile and Caccioppoli on a range of ready-to-wear long-sleeved polo shirts. We’ve now completed work on them and ...

The Friday Polo – limited availabilty now

**Available to buy here** Over the past few months I’ve been working with shirtmarker Luca Avitabile and Caccioppoli on a range of ready-to-wear long-sleeved polo shirts. We’ve now completed work on them and ...

PolosJuly 11th 2015

Interview: Jonathan Cheung, Head of Design, Levi...

May 27th 2015

Jonathan is perhaps my perfect interviewee. He knows his craft, he knows bespoke, and given his job, he’s very interested in the crossover between tailoring and more casual clothing. – PS: Can you run thro...

Interview: Jonathan Cheung, Head of Design, Levi...

Jonathan is perhaps my perfect interviewee. He knows his craft, he knows bespoke, and given his job, he’s very interested in the crossover between tailoring and more casual clothing. – PS: Can you run thro...

Casual wear - DenimMay 27th 2015

The knitted T-shirt

April 24th 2015

It would be easy to ignore the difference between fully fashioned and normal T-shirts or polos. There aren’t many around, and the distinction is subtle. But good examples of the former create a very distinctive ...

The knitted T-shirt

It would be easy to ignore the difference between fully fashioned and normal T-shirts or polos. There aren’t many around, and the distinction is subtle. But good examples of the former create a very distinctive ...

Casual wear - KnitwearApril 24th 2015