Suit Style 4: Flattering the tall and the short

July 29th 2016

This is the fourth article in our Guide to Suit Style. You can see the full contents so far, and browse between them, on the right-hand side of this post. Following on from previous articles on single and double-breasted suits, in this article we t...

Suit Style 4: Flattering the tall and the short

  This is the fourth article in our Guide to Suit Style. You can see the full contents so far, and browse between them, on the right-hand side of this post. Following on from previous articles on single and double-brea...

Fit - SuitsJuly 29th 2016

Suit style 1: The difference between bespoke, made-...

April 29th 2016

This is the first article in our Guide to Suit Style. You can see the full contents so far, and browse between them, on the right-hand side of this post. Bespoke suit, Anderson & Sheppard What’s the difference between bespoke, MT...

Suit style 1: The difference between bespoke, made-...

This is the first article in our  Guide to Suit Style. You can see the full contents so far, and browse between them, on the right-hand side of this post. Bespoke suit, Anderson & Sheppard   What’s the diffe...

Fit - How toApril 29th 2016

Gieves & Hawkes made to measure

September 26th 2014

Earlier in the summer my brother-in-law had this suit made-to-measure with Gieves & Hawkes. Normally, I don’t offer opinions on things that have not been made for me, but since I was present at the commisioining, the fittings, and...

Gieves & Hawkes made to measure

  Earlier in the summer my brother-in-law had this suit made-to-measure with Gieves & Hawkes. Normally, I don’t offer opinions on things that have not been made for me, but since I was present at the commisioi...

Fit - TailoringSeptember 26th 2014

How to compare RTW and MTM suits

February 21st 2014

Since I wrote a post at the beginning of the month urging readers to comment and ask questions on Permanent Style, quite a few have asked about different ready-to-wear and made-to-measure brands. I’d like to explain how to compare RTW, and why ...

How to compare RTW and MTM suits

Since I wrote a post at the beginning of the month urging readers to comment and ask questions on Permanent Style, quite a few have asked about different ready-to-wear and made-to-measure brands. I’d like to explain ho...

Fit - SuitsFebruary 21st 2014

Five tips on looking better in a suit

May 20th 2011

At a party last week a nice young man asked me what my top five tips would be for wearing suits. It sounded like a nice practical question, so here we go: 1. Have a ready-to-wear suit altered Most men that buy suits don’t have them altered,...

Five tips on looking better in a suit

At a party last week a nice young man asked me what my top five tips would be for wearing suits. It sounded like a nice practical question, so here we go: 1. Have a ready-to-wear suit altered Most men that buy suits don&...

Fit - SuitsMay 20th 2011

Dressing advice for chubby and tubby

January 19th 2011

Again we pause for the forgotten man Esquire, March 1935: “Last month we got ourselves in very solid with a large number of citizens, or vice versa, by stopping to reflect, via one of these fashion pages, that somebody loves a fat man. So a...

Dressing advice for chubby and tubby

Again we pause for the forgotten man Esquire, March 1935: “Last month we got ourselves in very solid with a large number of citizens, or vice versa, by stopping to reflect, via one of these fashion pages, that some...

Fit - TailoringJanuary 19th 2011

Two aspects of figuration

January 29th 2010

I discovered an interesting aspect of figuration today, while being measured for a new suit. (Figuration being the process where a tailor adapts a suit to your particular bodily quirks – the steps beyond just making sure the shoulders are the r...

Two aspects of figuration

I discovered an interesting aspect of figuration today, while being measured for a new suit. (Figuration being the process where a tailor adapts a suit to your particular bodily quirks – the steps beyond just making su...

Fit - TailoringJanuary 29th 2010

Double-breasted: Harmony v balance

June 1st 2009

I read a discussion recently between sartorialists on whether a double-breasted suit should have cuffs on the trousers or not. Of course there were some declarations about it being a rule that they should, but as with all rules they are subjective an...

Double-breasted: Harmony v balance

I read a discussion recently between sartorialists on whether a double-breasted suit should have cuffs on the trousers or not. Of course there were some declarations about it being a rule that they should, but as with al...

Fit - TailoringJune 1st 2009

Why your Gucci doesn’t fit

May 27th 2009

Ever wondered why your Dolce & Gabbana jacket fits you so well but the Gucci just isn’t right? Well, it’s Antonio Bracciani’s fault. Bracciani is not a designer, a marketer or a manager. He is a fit model. And most of the c...

Why your Gucci doesn’t fit

Ever wondered why your Dolce & Gabbana jacket fits you so well but the Gucci just isn’t right? Well, it’s Antonio Bracciani’s fault. Bracciani is not a designer, a marketer or a manager. He is a fit model. And...

Fit - TailoringMay 27th 2009

Reader question: Examining the fit

April 24th 2008

Pete, Hong Kong: When I’m standing in front of the mirror for my first fitting, how do I tell whether the suit fits or not? How do I know if the tailor has done a good job, and tell him to change something if he hasn’t? As with the last p...

Reader question: Examining the fit

Pete, Hong Kong: When I’m standing in front of the mirror for my first fitting, how do I tell whether the suit fits or not? How do I know if the tailor has done a good job, and tell him to change something if he hasn...

Fit - Reader questionsApril 24th 2008

Silhouette and fit: Know the difference

April 4th 2008

A suit with massive shoulders, tiny waist or short trousers does not necessarily fit badly. It just has a bad silhouette. It is important to understand the difference. The shoulders of your suit, for example, may end exactly at the edge of your actua...

Silhouette and fit: Know the difference

A suit with massive shoulders, tiny waist or short trousers does not necessarily fit badly. It just has a bad silhouette. It is important to understand the difference. The shoulders of your suit, for example, may end exa...

Fit - TailoringApril 4th 2008