Suit Style 4: Flattering the tall and the short

July 29th 2016

This is the fourth article in a series presenting a guide to buying tailoring. Following on from the previous articles on single and double-breasted suits, we turn our attention to body shape, and how different styles a...

Suit Style 4: Flattering the tall and the short

This is the fourth article in a series presenting a guide to buying tailoring. Following on from the previous articles on single and double-breasted suits, we turn our attention to body shape, and how different styles a...

Fit - SuitsJuly 29th 2016

Suit style 1: The difference between bespoke, made-...

April 29th 2016

Bespoke suit, Anderson & Sheppard This is the first in a series of articles that will, overall, create an in-depth guide to buying tailoring. Some of these areas have been covered before on the site, but not in ...

Suit style 1: The difference between bespoke, made-...

Bespoke suit, Anderson & Sheppard This is the first in a series of articles that will, overall, create an in-depth guide to buying tailoring. Some of these areas have been covered before on the site, but not in ...

Fit - How toApril 29th 2016

Gieves & Hawkes made to measure

September 26th 2014

Earlier in the summer my brother-in-law had this suit made-to-measure with Gieves & Hawkes. Normally, I don’t offer opinions on things that have not been made for me, but since I was present at the commisioin...

Gieves & Hawkes made to measure

Earlier in the summer my brother-in-law had this suit made-to-measure with Gieves & Hawkes. Normally, I don’t offer opinions on things that have not been made for me, but since I was present at the commisioin...

Fit - TailoringSeptember 26th 2014

How to compare RTW and MTM suits

February 21st 2014

Since I wrote a post at the beginning of the month urging readers to comment and ask questions on Permanent Style, quite a few have asked about different ready-to-wear and made-to-measure brands. I’d like to explai...

How to compare RTW and MTM suits

Since I wrote a post at the beginning of the month urging readers to comment and ask questions on Permanent Style, quite a few have asked about different ready-to-wear and made-to-measure brands. I’d like to explai...

Fit - SuitsFebruary 21st 2014

Five tips on looking better in a suit

May 20th 2011

At a party last week a nice young man asked me what my top five tips would be for wearing suits. It sounded like a nice practical question, so here we go: 1. Have a ready-to-wear suit altered Most men that buy suits don&...

Five tips on looking better in a suit

At a party last week a nice young man asked me what my top five tips would be for wearing suits. It sounded like a nice practical question, so here we go: 1. Have a ready-to-wear suit altered Most men that buy suits don&...

Fit - SuitsMay 20th 2011

Dressing advice for chubby and tubby

January 19th 2011

Again we pause for the forgotten man Esquire, March 1935: “Last month we got ourselves in very solid with a large number of citizens, or vice versa, by stopping to reflect, via one of these fashion pages, that some...

Dressing advice for chubby and tubby

Again we pause for the forgotten man Esquire, March 1935: “Last month we got ourselves in very solid with a large number of citizens, or vice versa, by stopping to reflect, via one of these fashion pages, that some...

Fit - TailoringJanuary 19th 2011

Two aspects of figuration

January 29th 2010

I discovered an interesting aspect of figuration today, while being measured for a new suit. (Figuration being the process where a tailor adapts a suit to your particular bodily quirks – the steps beyond just makin...

Two aspects of figuration

I discovered an interesting aspect of figuration today, while being measured for a new suit. (Figuration being the process where a tailor adapts a suit to your particular bodily quirks – the steps beyond just makin...

Fit - TailoringJanuary 29th 2010

Double-breasted: Harmony v balance

June 1st 2009

I read a discussion recently between sartorialists on whether a double-breasted suit should have cuffs on the trousers or not. Of course there were some declarations about it being a rule that they should, but as with al...

Double-breasted: Harmony v balance

I read a discussion recently between sartorialists on whether a double-breasted suit should have cuffs on the trousers or not. Of course there were some declarations about it being a rule that they should, but as with al...

Fit - TailoringJune 1st 2009

Why your Gucci doesn’t fit

May 27th 2009

Ever wondered why your Dolce & Gabbana jacket fits you so well but the Gucci just isn’t right? Well, it’s Antonio Bracciani’s fault. Bracciani is not a designer, a marketer or a manager. He is a fi...

Why your Gucci doesn’t fit

Ever wondered why your Dolce & Gabbana jacket fits you so well but the Gucci just isn’t right? Well, it’s Antonio Bracciani’s fault. Bracciani is not a designer, a marketer or a manager. He is a fi...

Fit - TailoringMay 27th 2009

Reader question: Examining the fit

April 24th 2008

Pete, Hong Kong: When I’m standing in front of the mirror for my first fitting, how do I tell whether the suit fits or not? How do I know if the tailor has done a good job, and tell him to change something if he ha...

Reader question: Examining the fit

Pete, Hong Kong: When I’m standing in front of the mirror for my first fitting, how do I tell whether the suit fits or not? How do I know if the tailor has done a good job, and tell him to change something if he ha...

Fit - Reader questionsApril 24th 2008

Silhouette and fit: Know the difference

April 4th 2008

A suit with massive shoulders, tiny waist or short trousers does not necessarily fit badly. It just has a bad silhouette. It is important to understand the difference. The shoulders of your suit, for example, may end exa...

Silhouette and fit: Know the difference

A suit with massive shoulders, tiny waist or short trousers does not necessarily fit badly. It just has a bad silhouette. It is important to understand the difference. The shoulders of your suit, for example, may end exa...

Fit - TailoringApril 4th 2008