My glasses: A journey in eyewear

August 2nd 2019

I’ve been short-sighted since I was young, and as a result have always worn glasses. Even when I switched to contact lenses as a teenager, I continued to have glasses as an alternative, both for style and health. Once you start to become inte...

My glasses: A journey in eyewear

I’ve been short-sighted since I was young, and as a result have always worn glasses. Even when I switched to contact lenses as a teenager, I continued to have glasses as an alternative, both for style and health.  On...

Glasses and jewelleryAugust 2nd 2019

Maison Bonnet bespoke glasses: The craft in London

April 22nd 2019

Maison Bonnet was one of the few world-renowned menswear makers I hadn’t tried until recently. So it has been great to get to know Franck and the team, since they opened a shop in Mayfair last year. Having been short-sighted from a young age, ...

Maison Bonnet bespoke glasses: The craft in London

Maison Bonnet was one of the few world-renowned menswear makers I hadn’t tried until recently. So it has been great to get to know Franck and the team, since they opened a shop in Mayfair last year. Having been short-...

Glasses and jewelleryApril 22nd 2019

Seeing the trees for the wood: Connolly and Yard-O-...

March 15th 2019

A reader recently asked whether there was anything I particularly liked on The Rake’s online shop , given how much they’ve added in the past year. I feel I know why he’s asking. The Rake has added so much product recently that it&r...

Seeing the trees for the wood: Connolly and Yard-O-...

A reader recently asked whether there was anything I particularly liked on The Rake’s online shop , given how much they’ve added in the past year. I feel I know why he’s asking. The Rake has added so much product ...

Casual jackets - Glasses and jewelleryMarch 15th 2019

Paris: Lafayette Saltiel, Kenjiro Suzuki, Ateliers ...

September 19th 2018

Samuel Gassmann Last week I was in Paris for two days, catching up with old friends and artisans, and seeing a few new ones. One of the most interesting things was an interview with Lyne Cohen Solal, the new head of the Institut National Metiers d&r...

Paris: Lafayette Saltiel, Kenjiro Suzuki, Ateliers ...

Samuel Gassmann Last week I was in Paris for two days, catching up with old friends and artisans, and seeing a few new ones. One of the most interesting things was an interview with Lyne Cohen Solal, the new head of the...

Bags - Belts and walletsSeptember 19th 2018

Meyrowitz sunglasses with tailoring; Paying for goo...

August 20th 2018

The harder it is to know whether something fits well, or suits you, the more valuable expert advice is. And the more valuable it is to have it in person. (It’s one reason some categories, like accessories, work better online than others, such ...

Meyrowitz sunglasses with tailoring; Paying for goo...

The harder it is to know whether something fits well, or suits you, the more valuable expert advice is. And the more valuable it is to have it in person. (It’s one reason some categories, like accessories, work better...

Glasses and jewelleryAugust 20th 2018

Kirk Originals sunglasses, Simpson London, and the ...

July 23rd 2018

The two new brands at this iteration of the ‘Permanent Style presents’ pop-up shop were Kirk Originals and Simpson London. But while readers will be relatively familiar with Simpson, given I covered their new factory back in November, I&...

Kirk Originals sunglasses, Simpson London, and the ...

The two new brands at this iteration of the ‘Permanent Style presents’ pop-up shop were Kirk Originals and Simpson London. But while readers will be relatively familiar with Simpson, given I covered their new factor...

Bags - Glasses and jewelleryJuly 23rd 2018

Summer checked jacket – at the Dalcuore Rakis...

June 29th 2018

If there’s one thing I have a (very relative) lack of, it’s summer sports jackets - casual pieces for warm days, using the linen/wool/silk mixes the Italians are so good at. So it was nice to have this jacket from Dalcuore made up in tim...

Summer checked jacket – at the Dalcuore Rakis...

If there’s one thing I have a (very relative) lack of, it’s summer sports jackets - casual pieces for warm days, using the linen/wool/silk mixes the Italians are so good at. So it was nice to have this jacket from D...

Glasses and jewellery - JacketsJune 29th 2018

Indigo, navy and natural: A summer combination

June 11th 2018

I've always liked indigo in tailoring, and find navy a good partner for it. The deep indigo of this linen shirt from D'Avino, for example, is significantly quietened by the navy blazer over the top, and makes that top half a story in tonal variation...

Indigo, navy and natural: A summer combination

I've always liked indigo in tailoring, and find navy a good partner for it. The deep indigo of this linen shirt from D'Avino, for example, is significantly quietened by the navy blazer over the top, and makes that top h...

Glasses and jewellery - ShirtsJune 11th 2018

Vintage gold cuff

May 11th 2018

My view on jewellery has always been that it should be something special, certainly emotionally and probably financially too. Men wear so little of it, and it is such a statement to do so, that it should be precious. Not a cheap leather bracelet, in...

Vintage gold cuff

My view on jewellery has always been that it should be something special, certainly emotionally and probably financially too. Men wear so little of it, and it is such a statement to do so, that it should be precious. No...

Glasses and jewelleryMay 11th 2018

Holiday snaps: Eidos, Aspesi, Doek, Drake’s

April 20th 2018

Travelling to India on holiday this Easter gave me a reason to get the hot-weather clothing out early. It was unseasonably hot even for there, with the temperature pushing 40 degrees. We took the opportunity to visit the 100 Hands factory in Amritsa...

Holiday snaps: Eidos, Aspesi, Doek, Drake’s

Travelling to India on holiday this Easter gave me a reason to get the hot-weather clothing out early. It was unseasonably hot even for there, with the temperature pushing 40 degrees. We took the opportunity to visit th...

Glasses and jewellery - ShirtsApril 20th 2018

Codis Maya and The Workers Club – in the pop-up

December 14th 2017

It really is a lovely feeling walking into the pop-up shop for a new week. There’s Carmen from Camiseria Burgos in Madrid, whom I haven’t seen for five years, pretty much. Next to her is Benedikt from Shibumi, lining up his ties with his...

Codis Maya and The Workers Club – in the pop-up

It really is a lovely feeling walking into the pop-up shop for a new week. There’s Carmen from Camiseria Burgos in Madrid, whom I haven’t seen for five years, pretty much. Next to her is Benedikt from Shibumi, linin...

Casual jackets - DenimDecember 14th 2017

The growth of bespoke and customised glasses

September 8th 2017

The following feature was commissioned by an international fashion magazine, but later cancelled. I have reproduced it here as I think it rounds out some of our discussion of bespoke eyewear - bringing in makers like Lindberg and discussing future d...

The growth of bespoke and customised glasses

The following feature was commissioned by an international fashion magazine, but later cancelled. I have reproduced it here as I think it rounds out some of our discussion of bespoke eyewear - bringing in makers like L...

Glasses and jewellerySeptember 8th 2017

Barbarulo 1894 – Neapolitan handmade jewellery

August 23rd 2017

As in Japan last year, while we were in Naples in July we took the time to see some crafts outside of menswear - in this case, jewellery at Barbarulo. Barbarulo in its modern incarnation is closely associated with menswear. It is best known for cuff...

Barbarulo 1894 – Neapolitan handmade jewellery

As in Japan last year, while we were in Naples in July we took the time to see some crafts outside of menswear - in this case, jewellery at Barbarulo. Barbarulo in its modern incarnation is closely associated with mensw...

Glasses and jewelleryAugust 23rd 2017

Accessories for holiday

August 7th 2017

Following my post two weeks ago on what I pack for travel, a reader asked about non-clothing items - electronics, toiletries and so on. So here are a few of my favourite things, which will certainly be going on holiday this summer. 1 Bower &...

Accessories for holiday

Following my post two weeks ago on what I pack for travel, a reader asked about non-clothing items - electronics, toiletries and so on.  So here are a few of my favourite things, which will certainly be going on holida...

Bags - Glasses and jewelleryAugust 7th 2017

My desk

July 5th 2017

Many readers said they liked the personal, behind-the-scenes approach of Plaza Uomo's cover story on me last year. Here, then, is another angle. My desk, where I write most of these posts, and therefore probably the most important Permanent Style-r...

My desk

Many readers said they liked the personal, behind-the-scenes approach of Plaza Uomo's cover story on me last year.  Here, then, is another angle. My desk, where I write most of these posts, and therefore probably the m...

Glasses and jewellery - Hanks and scarvesJuly 5th 2017

A Lange & Sohne watches: Factory visit

June 19th 2017

I've always liked watches, but deliberately stayed out of the depths of obsessiveness that consumes some men. Time and money restricts your hobbies, and I have preferred to acquire the odd piece that particularly takes me from an aesthetic point of ...

A Lange & Sohne watches: Factory visit

I've always liked watches, but deliberately stayed out of the depths of obsessiveness that consumes some men. Time and money restricts your hobbies, and I have preferred to acquire the odd piece that particularly takes...

Glasses and jewelleryJune 19th 2017

Ludovic Lunetier – bespoke glasses, Brussels

May 24th 2017

During an event in Brussels last year I met the young glasses-maker Ludovic Elens, who runs Lunetier Ludovic just off Place du Sablon. Ludovic is worth highlighting for many reasons, but most obviously because he is the only bespoke glasses-maker in...

Ludovic Lunetier – bespoke glasses, Brussels

During an event in Brussels last year I met the young glasses-maker Ludovic Elens, who runs Lunetier Ludovic just off Place du Sablon. Ludovic is worth highlighting for many reasons, but most obviously because he is th...

Glasses and jewelleryMay 24th 2017

Designing bespoke glasses – General Eyewear, ...

April 19th 2017

Note: General Eyewear now has a store in Soho as well as the Camden HQ - details here. Choosing a block of acetate is not something I’d bet most people have done in their lives. And it’s tricky. Looking at a slab of coloured plastic, an...

Designing bespoke glasses – General Eyewear, ...

Note: General Eyewear now has a store in Soho as well as the Camden HQ -  details here. Choosing a block of acetate is not something I’d bet most people have done in their lives. And it’s tricky. Looking at a slab ...

Glasses and jewelleryApril 19th 2017

General Eyewear: bespoke and ready-made glasses, Ca...

March 7th 2017

Note: General Eyewear now has a store in Soho as well as the Camden HQ - details here. General Eyewear has historically been a source of vintage inspiration for glasses, supplying designer brands and costume designers. But as it has starting selling...

General Eyewear: bespoke and ready-made glasses, Ca...

Note: General Eyewear now has a store in Soho as well as the Camden HQ - details here. General Eyewear has historically been a source of vintage inspiration for glasses, supplying designer brands and costume designers. ...

Glasses and jewelleryMarch 7th 2017

Codis Maya enamel cufflinks and jewellery

February 28th 2017

Pop-up Shop update: Lavabre Cadet gloves are in the shop today and tomorrow (Tuesday and Wednesday) for a trunk show. And on Wednesday, Neapolitan tailor Elia Caliendo will also be in the shop for a one-day show. Please do come along, and feel free...

Codis Maya enamel cufflinks and jewellery

Pop-up Shop update: Lavabre Cadet gloves are in the shop today and tomorrow (Tuesday and Wednesday) for a trunk show.  And on Wednesday, Neapolitan tailor Elia Caliendo will also be in the shop for a one-day show. Plea...

Glasses and jewelleryFebruary 28th 2017

The Dunhill archive

February 1st 2017

As 'heritage' has become more popular in recent years, brands have increasingly emphasised their longevity, their history and their traditions. This has several issues. Most obviously, the brands that push this hardest often have the least to shout...

The Dunhill archive

As 'heritage' has become more popular in recent years, brands have increasingly emphasised their longevity, their history and their traditions.  This has several issues. Most obviously, the brands that push this hardes...

Coats - Factory visitsFebruary 1st 2017

Brussels craft event

October 30th 2016

At the beginning of December, there will be an event in Brussels bringing together some of the craftsmen that featured in the Permanent Style trunk show last month - Lavabre Cadet and Michel Heurtault - as well as several others. Those others are: ...

Brussels craft event

At the beginning of December, there will be an event in Brussels bringing together some of the craftsmen that featured in the Permanent Style trunk show last month - Lavabre Cadet and Michel Heurtault - as well as seve...

Glasses and jewellery - Hanks and scarvesOctober 30th 2016

The suede blouson for travel

August 10th 2016

Blousons come in many shapes and sizes, but they are united by a short length, fuller body and collar. Blousons work particularly well with higher-waisted tailored trousers, and for that reason make a great casual alternative to a tailored jacket. ...

The suede blouson for travel

Blousons come in many shapes and sizes, but they are united by a short length, fuller body and collar.  Blousons work particularly well with higher-waisted tailored trousers, and for that reason make a great casual alt...

Casual jackets - Glasses and jewelleryAugust 10th 2016

Holiday snaps: Linen bomber, cotton trousers, espad...

August 1st 2016

A brief post today, with some pictures from holiday. Casual but still classic in cut and colour, and catering to the heat. First, above, 'Dani' espadrilles from La Portegna. I'm still in two minds about these, after a week of wearing them every da...

Holiday snaps: Linen bomber, cotton trousers, espad...

A brief post today, with some pictures from holiday. Casual but still classic in cut and colour, and catering to the heat.  First, above, 'Dani'  espadrilles from La Portegna. I'm still in two minds about these, after...

Casual jackets - Glasses and jewelleryAugust 1st 2016

The Permanent Style cufflinks

July 4th 2016

It's funny, the Friday Polos have been so popular over the past year that I get asked whether I've thought about doing other collaborations. In fact, of course, we have done ten collaborations over five years - everything from the now-widely-availa...

The Permanent Style cufflinks

It's funny, the Friday Polos have been so popular over the past year that I get asked whether I've thought about doing other collaborations.  In fact, of course, we have done ten collaborations over five years - ever...

Glasses and jewelleryJuly 4th 2016

Colour combinations, from casual to formal

May 31st 2016

The colour combinations that we discuss every week in regards to formal wear, can be applied just as readily to casual wear. Although there will always be elements that don't crossover (such as the immense versatility of denim) a lot of the themes ...

Colour combinations, from casual to formal

The colour combinations that we discuss every week in regards to formal wear, can be applied just as readily to casual wear.  Although there will always be elements that don't crossover (such as the immense versatility...

Casual jackets - DenimMay 31st 2016

Maison Bourgeat – finished bespoke glasses

May 6th 2016

*Since this article was written, Maison Bourgeat closed and Guillaume left the business. It has now re-opened under new management* A few weeks ago I received my finished bespoke glasses from Maison Bourgeat in Paris. The results are superb ...

Maison Bourgeat – finished bespoke glasses

*Since this article was written, Maison Bourgeat closed and Guillaume left the business. It has now re-opened under new management*   A few weeks ago I received my finished bespoke glasses from Maison Bourgeat in Paris....

Glasses and jewelleryMay 6th 2016

Brands review III: Son of a Tailor, d’Alember...

February 5th 2016

This has become a Permanent Style feature in the past couple of years. An opportunity to mention the dozens of brands that email asking me to review their product, but never get a full post because they don’t quite make that grade. As e...

Brands review III: Son of a Tailor, d’Alember...

   This has become a Permanent Style feature in the past couple of years. An opportunity to mention the dozens of brands that email asking me to review their product, but never get a full post because they don’t...

Belts and wallets - Glasses and jewelleryFebruary 5th 2016

Maison Bourgeat – bespoke glasses, Paris

January 4th 2016

*Since this article was written, Maison Bourgeat closed and Guillaume has left. The shop has now re-opened under new management* Maison Bourgeat is an old French glasses manufacturer that was relaunched last year as a bespoke outfit, with a beaut...

Maison Bourgeat – bespoke glasses, Paris

*Since this article was written, Maison Bourgeat closed and Guillaume has left. The shop has now re-opened under new management*     Maison Bourgeat is an old French glasses manufacturer that was relaunched last...

Glasses and jewelleryJanuary 4th 2016

Review: The Bespoke Dudes Eyewear

November 8th 2015

A few weeks ago, Fabio Attanasi of The Bespoke Dudes blog offered to send me some of his glasses to review. I was interested in what he had produced – and it was a good excuse to return to the quality aspects of glasses and acetate. Rather l...

Review: The Bespoke Dudes Eyewear

   A few weeks ago, Fabio Attanasi of The Bespoke Dudes blog offered to send me some of his glasses to review. I was interested in what he had produced – and it was a good excuse to return to the quality aspects of g...

Glasses and jewelleryNovember 8th 2015

Reflections on bespoke 2: J Panther, Tom Davies and...

February 18th 2015

My last ‘reflections on bespoke’ post back in January was very popular. Readers seemed to respond to the assessment of bespoke commissions with the wisdom of hindsight, and I have to say I sympathise. Here, then, are five more, ...

Reflections on bespoke 2: J Panther, Tom Davies and...

  My last ‘reflections on bespoke’ post back in January was very popular. Readers seemed to respond to the assessment of bespoke commissions with the wisdom of hindsight, and I have to say I sympathise. Her...

Bags - Glasses and jewelleryFebruary 18th 2015

My watches

May 19th 2014

Following my first post in this series, on buying value in a watch, here are a few pictures of my own watches. A few readers have asked for details of what I wear myself, and these will be useful reference points for the last installment, on watche...

My watches

  Following my first post in this series, on buying value in a watch, here are a few pictures of my own watches. A few readers have asked for details of what I wear myself, and these will be useful reference points for ...

Glasses and jewelleryMay 19th 2014

How to buy a quality watch

April 17th 2014

A watch is your greatest investment piece. You may wear it every day of your life. It can enhance every outfit you ever wear (except black tie and beachwear, perhaps). It is worth saving up for more than anything. But that doesn’t mean it has t...

How to buy a quality watch

A watch is your greatest investment piece. You may wear it every day of your life. It can enhance every outfit you ever wear (except black tie and beachwear, perhaps). It is worth saving up for more than anything. But th...

Glasses and jewelleryApril 17th 2014

Tortoiseshell and kidskin

December 16th 2013

As someone who has spent too much of the past year redeveloping a website, I take my hat off to Will, who has accomplished a much more fundamental redesign over at A Suitable Wardrobe – melding the blog with the ASW store. One of the hardest th...

Tortoiseshell and kidskin

As someone who has spent too much of the past year redeveloping a website, I take my hat off to Will, who has accomplished a much more fundamental redesign over at A Suitable Wardrobe – melding the blog with the ASW st...

Glasses and jewellery - StyleDecember 16th 2013

Dressing for the summer, and the kids

September 2nd 2013

I’ve been on holiday the past two weeks in the south of France; apologies for the tardiness confirming some comments. For those interested in more casual dress, here is something from last week, with my youngest hiding her face wisely from the ...

Dressing for the summer, and the kids

I’ve been on holiday the past two weeks in the south of France; apologies for the tardiness confirming some comments. For those interested in more casual dress, here is something from last week, with my youngest hiding...

Glasses and jewellery - ShirtsSeptember 2nd 2013

Cutler & Gross – interview with CEO Majid...

April 3rd 2013

0 0 1 1241 7075 Euromoney Institiutional Investor PLC 58 16 8300 14.0 Normal 0 false false false EN-US JA X-NONE /* Style Definitions */ table.MsoNormalTable {mso-style-name:"Table Normal"; mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0; mso-tstyle-colband-size:0; mso-st...

Cutler & Gross – interview with CEO Majid...

0 0 1 1241 7075 Euromoney Institiutional Investor PLC 58 16 8300 14.0 Normal 0 false false false EN-US JA X-NONE /* Style Definitions */ table.MsoNormalTable {mso-style-name:"Table Normal"; mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0; mso...

Glasses and jewelleryApril 3rd 2013

Alfred Dunhill bespoke glasses case

April 2nd 2012

This is the end result of a project to make the perfect glasses case, which began back in November last year when Tomasz Nosarzewski at Dunhill told me about the bespoke work he had begun doing at Bourdon House in London. Tomasz, whom I first met in ...

Alfred Dunhill bespoke glasses case

This is the end result of a project to make the perfect glasses case, which began back in November last year when Tomasz Nosarzewski at Dunhill told me about the bespoke work he had begun doing at Bourdon House in London...

Glasses and jewelleryApril 2nd 2012

Tom Davies horn glasses

March 26th 2012

It’s taken a while to get round to writing about my glasses from Tom Davies. Partially, that was because it took a while to have them made. I was a guinea big for the bespoke service for horn glasses, and as with any new service it took that ...

Tom Davies horn glasses

  It’s taken a while to get round to writing about my glasses from Tom Davies. Partially, that was because it took a while to have them made. I was a guinea big for the bespoke service for horn glasses, and as with an...

Glasses and jewelleryMarch 26th 2012

EB Meyrowitz: First glasses, and fitting

January 5th 2012

Having been rather taken with both the style and personalised service of EB Meyrowitz (see previous piece here) I decided to have a pair of glasses fitted late last year. The experience speaks of the expertise of Sheel and her sisters, but also of th...

EB Meyrowitz: First glasses, and fitting

Having been rather taken with both the style and personalised service of EB Meyrowitz (see previous piece here) I decided to have a pair of glasses fitted late last year. The experience speaks of the expertise of Sheel a...

Glasses and jewelleryJanuary 5th 2012

Liverano and Nackymade at The Armoury in London

December 5th 2011

In my previous job I used to travel to Hong Kong twice a year. Great place to go out, but not great shopping: all overpriced luxury brands or, at the other end of the spectrum, hard-sell tailors that would offer a ‘bespoke’ suit in 24 hou...

Liverano and Nackymade at The Armoury in London

In my previous job I used to travel to Hong Kong twice a year. Great place to go out, but not great shopping: all overpriced luxury brands or, at the other end of the spectrum, hard-sell tailors that would offer a ‘bes...

Glasses and jewelleryDecember 5th 2011

EB Meyrowitz: Handmade glasses

October 5th 2011

EB Meyrowitz always used to sparkle from across the Royal Arcade, as I sat in Cleverley’s chatting to George or Teemu. The serried rows of horn and acetate frames, all in beautiful brown variations, watched by a little jazz band on top of the c...

EB Meyrowitz: Handmade glasses

EB Meyrowitz always used to sparkle from across the Royal Arcade, as I sat in Cleverley’s chatting to George or Teemu. The serried rows of horn and acetate frames, all in beautiful brown variations, watched by a little...

Glasses and jewelleryOctober 5th 2011

Bespoke glasses at TD Tom Davies

October 18th 2010

It turns out my neighbour is friends with a guy called Tom Davies, who is the largest maker of bespoke glasses in the world. And Tom’s studio is half a mile from where I grew up (East Sheen, south-west London). So, interested in learnin...

Bespoke glasses at TD Tom Davies

        It turns out my neighbour is friends with a guy called Tom Davies, who is the largest maker of bespoke glasses in the world. And Tom’s studio is half a mile from where I grew up (East Sheen, south-west Lond...

Glasses and jewelleryOctober 18th 2010