Suit style 2: The single breasted

May 27th 2016

This is the fourth article in our Guide to Suit Style. You can see the full contents so far, and browse between them, on the right-hand side of this post. Fitting on a Hardy Amies single-breasted jacket How many buttons...

Suit style 2: The single breasted

This is the fourth article in our Guide to Suit Style. You can see the full contents so far, and browse between them, on the right-hand side of this post. Fitting on a Hardy Amies single-breasted jacket How many buttons...

How to - SuitsMay 27th 2016

Suit style 1: The difference between bespoke, made-...

April 29th 2016

This is the first article in our Guide to Suit Style. You can see the full contents so far, and browse between them, on the right-hand side of this post. Bespoke suit, Anderson & Sheppard What’s the differen...

Suit style 1: The difference between bespoke, made-...

This is the first article in our Guide to Suit Style. You can see the full contents so far, and browse between them, on the right-hand side of this post. Bespoke suit, Anderson & Sheppard What’s the differen...

Fit - How toApril 29th 2016

Florence: A sartorial shopping guide

April 6th 2016

Florence is best known as a tourist destination in the summer – the Uffizi, the Duomo, the Ponte Vecchio – and a menswear hub in January and June, when it plays host to the men’s trade show Pitti Uom...

Florence: A sartorial shopping guide

Florence is best known as a tourist destination in the summer – the Uffizi, the Duomo, the Ponte Vecchio – and a menswear hub in January and June, when it plays host to the men’s trade show Pitti Uom...

How toApril 6th 2016

Commuting by bike – what to keep in the office

January 28th 2016

In my recent post on a handkerchief capsule collection, there were quite a few questions about commuting to work by bike. They can be summarised as: What should I keep in the office, and at home? How do I rotate them ...

Commuting by bike – what to keep in the office

In my recent post on a handkerchief capsule collection, there were quite a few questions about commuting to work by bike. They can be summarised as: What should I keep in the office, and at home? How do I rotate them ...

Casual wear - How toJanuary 28th 2016

Video: How to press suit trousers

November 20th 2015

This is the last instalment in our series on looking after suits at home. The first showed how to brush and generally maintain suits, and the second how to press a jacket. You can see them at those links. It’s b...

Video: How to press suit trousers

This is the last instalment in our series on looking after suits at home. The first showed how to brush and generally maintain suits, and the second how to press a jacket. You can see them at those links. It’s b...

Alterations and maintenance - How toNovember 20th 2015

How smart is my tie?

September 25th 2015

A few weeks a reader asked for a post on what makes a tie more or less formal, smart or not. It’s a very relevant question. Few men today wear ties, but when they do, they rarely want them to be as smart as the ...

How smart is my tie?

A few weeks a reader asked for a post on what makes a tie more or less formal, smart or not. It’s a very relevant question. Few men today wear ties, but when they do, they rarely want them to be as smart as the ...

How to - Shirts and tiesSeptember 25th 2015

What is worth being made bespoke?

August 21st 2015

Re-fitting for a Simone Abbarchi shirt, Florence In comments to Friday’s post on my ‘go-to’ clothing, readers said they would like to see a post suggesting which types of clothing it is most worth ha...

What is worth being made bespoke?

Re-fitting for a Simone Abbarchi shirt, Florence In comments to Friday’s post on my ‘go-to’ clothing, readers said they would like to see a post suggesting which types of clothing it is most worth ha...

How to - OvercoatsAugust 21st 2015

Do I need black shoes (and if so, which?) – R...

August 6th 2015

As with many reader questions, this one evolved over several email messages back and forth. I know Joel won’t mind if I restructure that exchange into a conversation, in order to put the inquiries in the right o...

Do I need black shoes (and if so, which?) – R...

As with many reader questions, this one evolved over several email messages back and forth. I know Joel won’t mind if I restructure that exchange into a conversation, in order to put the inquiries in the right o...

Derby - How toAugust 6th 2015

Interview: Frederic Malle, selecting perfume

June 8th 2015

It wouldn’t be an exaggeration to say that Frederic Malle is the godfather of modern perfume. He was responsible for the first collections to champion the perfumer, back when designer brands were just starting to...

Interview: Frederic Malle, selecting perfume

It wouldn’t be an exaggeration to say that Frederic Malle is the godfather of modern perfume. He was responsible for the first collections to champion the perfumer, back when designer brands were just starting to...

How to - PerfumeJune 8th 2015

How shoes should fit

May 7th 2015

I have received a few questions on this 2009 post about how shoes wear over time recently, and note that there is no post that sets out the basics of how a shoe should fit. Let’s start with a simple summary. A sh...

How shoes should fit

I have received a few questions on this 2009 post about how shoes wear over time recently, and note that there is no post that sets out the basics of how a shoe should fit. Let’s start with a simple summary. A sh...

Boot - How toMay 7th 2015

What we write about when we write about quality

September 8th 2014

Two of my regular columns appear this week – one for We Are the Market and the other for How to Spend It. In the first, available here, I look at the problem of assessing quality in menswear. Bespoke is easy to ass...

What we write about when we write about quality

Two of my regular columns appear this week – one for We Are the Market and the other for How to Spend It. In the first, available here, I look at the problem of assessing quality in menswear. Bespoke is easy to ass...

How toSeptember 8th 2014

What makes a quality shirt?

August 27th 2014

Dear Simon, I believe that I’ve read every post you’ve written about shirts. Italian, Spanish, British, even the one on Charvet in How To Spend It. I’m always looking for the same thing but still hav...

What makes a quality shirt?

Dear Simon, I believe that I’ve read every post you’ve written about shirts. Italian, Spanish, British, even the one on Charvet in How To Spend It. I’m always looking for the same thing but still hav...

How to - Reader questionsAugust 27th 2014

Five tips on bespoke shoes

July 7th 2014

I do like it when readers suggest posts. You feel you’re fulfilling a need. Two weeks ago, on Five Tips on Bespoke Suits, a reader requested a similar post on bespoke shoes, so here it is. 1 Be conservative I kno...

Five tips on bespoke shoes

I do like it when readers suggest posts. You feel you’re fulfilling a need. Two weeks ago, on Five Tips on Bespoke Suits, a reader requested a similar post on bespoke shoes, so here it is. 1 Be conservative I kno...

How to - OxfordJuly 7th 2014

How to buy a watch, part 3: Style

May 28th 2014

Following my recent posts on how to assess value in watches, and my own collection, here is my advice on style. Metals As a general rule of thumb, it is good to be consistent with metals on your jewellery. If you have ...

How to buy a watch, part 3: Style

Following my recent posts on how to assess value in watches, and my own collection, here is my advice on style. Metals As a general rule of thumb, it is good to be consistent with metals on your jewellery. If you have ...

Accessories - How toMay 28th 2014

How to buy a watch, part 2: My watches

May 19th 2014

Following my first post in this series, on buying value in a watch, here are a few pictures of my own watches. A few readers have asked for details of what I wear myself, and these will be useful reference points for t...

How to buy a watch, part 2: My watches

Following my first post in this series, on buying value in a watch, here are a few pictures of my own watches. A few readers have asked for details of what I wear myself, and these will be useful reference points for t...

Accessories - How toMay 19th 2014

How to buy a watch, part 1: Value

April 17th 2014

A watch is your greatest investment piece. You may wear it every day of your life. It can enhance every outfit you ever wear (except black tie and beachwear, perhaps). It is worth saving up for more than anything. But ...

How to buy a watch, part 1: Value

A watch is your greatest investment piece. You may wear it every day of your life. It can enhance every outfit you ever wear (except black tie and beachwear, perhaps). It is worth saving up for more than anything. But ...

Accessories - How toApril 17th 2014

How to stretch a sweater

March 5th 2014

I’ve always loved little jobs that can adapt a piece of clothing or improve it. I’ve adjusted knitwear in the past to narrow it, as well as put darts in shirts, and it’s probably the reason I love pol...

How to stretch a sweater

I’ve always loved little jobs that can adapt a piece of clothing or improve it. I’ve adjusted knitwear in the past to narrow it, as well as put darts in shirts, and it’s probably the reason I love pol...

Casual wear - How toMarch 5th 2014

Cleverley sample sale on Wednesday

December 16th 2013

Cleverley is having a last-minute sale on Wednesday, selling off bespoke shoes that weren’t picked up, were made in the wrong colour or for whatever other reason (other than quality) were never sold. There are 25 ...

Cleverley sample sale on Wednesday

Cleverley is having a last-minute sale on Wednesday, selling off bespoke shoes that weren’t picked up, were made in the wrong colour or for whatever other reason (other than quality) were never sold. There are 25 ...

How to - ShoesDecember 16th 2013

How to buy a suit

December 9th 2013

A colleague recently asked me for advice on buying a suit – probably navy, certainly single-breasted, possibly three-button. It’s the kind of everyday question that I get asked a lot, and probably concerns fa...

How to buy a suit

A colleague recently asked me for advice on buying a suit – probably navy, certainly single-breasted, possibly three-button. It’s the kind of everyday question that I get asked a lot, and probably concerns fa...

How to - SuitsDecember 9th 2013

A (Christmas) word from our sponsors

November 18th 2013

One of the nice things about having nice advertisers is the range of Christmas shopping ideas they present. Here are my favourites. Among the best additions to the collection at Drake’s are the untipped cashmeres i...

A (Christmas) word from our sponsors

One of the nice things about having nice advertisers is the range of Christmas shopping ideas they present. Here are my favourites. Among the best additions to the collection at Drake’s are the untipped cashmeres i...

Accessories - BagsNovember 18th 2013

How to buy good-value clothes

October 25th 2013

Dear Simon, I’ve been reading Permanent Style for many years now, but recently went scurrying back through older posts for advice. Having decided I should go straight to the source, I write to you today. In the...

How to buy good-value clothes

Dear Simon, I’ve been reading Permanent Style for many years now, but recently went scurrying back through older posts for advice. Having decided I should go straight to the source, I write to you today. In the...

How to - OxfordOctober 25th 2013

John Carnera with his 1987 shoes

September 19th 2013

Last week John Carnera at Cleverley’s had a pair of his shoes, dating back to 1987, in for a resole. John doesn’t work full time any more, but still helps out with a bit of the pattern cutting and repairs. Se...

John Carnera with his 1987 shoes

Last week John Carnera at Cleverley’s had a pair of his shoes, dating back to 1987, in for a resole. John doesn’t work full time any more, but still helps out with a bit of the pattern cutting and repairs. Se...

How to - ShoesSeptember 19th 2013

How to buy good shoes

August 12th 2013

“If you want to know if a guy is well dressed, look down.” So said US columnist George Frazier back in the 1950s, and his words have never been more true. Men who spend too little on their shoes end up wit...

How to buy good shoes

“If you want to know if a guy is well dressed, look down.” So said US columnist George Frazier back in the 1950s, and his words have never been more true. Men who spend too little on their shoes end up wit...

How to - OxfordAugust 12th 2013

How to buy fragrance – the perfumes

August 2nd 2013

Following the recent post on how to buy fragrance, this is the second installment – the brands I like and some suggestions of ones to look for. First, though, a reader asked about the difference between molecular a...

How to buy fragrance – the perfumes

Following the recent post on how to buy fragrance, this is the second installment – the brands I like and some suggestions of ones to look for. First, though, a reader asked about the difference between molecular a...

How to - PerfumeAugust 2nd 2013

Italy’s mills and merchants explained

July 29th 2013

  This is a follow-up to my popular post on English mills and cloth merchants: how to tell them apart, how they are related and how to select between them (basically, don’t; there is little difference). Ital...

Italy’s mills and merchants explained

  This is a follow-up to my popular post on English mills and cloth merchants: how to tell them apart, how they are related and how to select between them (basically, don’t; there is little difference). Ital...

Cloth - How toJuly 29th 2013