Suit style 2: The single breasted

May 27th 2016

Fitting on a single-breasted jacket at Hardy Amies This is the second in a series of articles intended to create an in-depth guide to buying tailoring. Some of these areas have been covered before on the site, but not i...

Suit style 2: The single breasted

Fitting on a single-breasted jacket at Hardy Amies This is the second in a series of articles intended to create an in-depth guide to buying tailoring. Some of these areas have been covered before on the site, but not i...

How to - SuitsMay 27th 2016

Suit style 1: The difference between bespoke, made-...

April 29th 2016

Bespoke suit, Anderson & Sheppard This is the first in a series of articles that will, overall, create an in-depth guide to buying tailoring. Some of these areas have been covered before on the site, but not in ...

Suit style 1: The difference between bespoke, made-...

Bespoke suit, Anderson & Sheppard This is the first in a series of articles that will, overall, create an in-depth guide to buying tailoring. Some of these areas have been covered before on the site, but not in ...

Fit - How toApril 29th 2016

Florence: A sartorial shopping guide

April 6th 2016

Florence is best known as a tourist destination in the summer – the Uffizi, the Duomo, the Ponte Vecchio – and a menswear hub in January and June, when it plays host to the men’s trade show Pitti Uom...

Florence: A sartorial shopping guide

Florence is best known as a tourist destination in the summer – the Uffizi, the Duomo, the Ponte Vecchio – and a menswear hub in January and June, when it plays host to the men’s trade show Pitti Uom...

How toApril 6th 2016

Commuting by bike – what to keep in the office

January 28th 2016

In my recent post on a handkerchief capsule collection, there were quite a few questions about commuting to work by bike. They can be summarised as: What should I keep in the office, and at home? How do I rotate them ...

Commuting by bike – what to keep in the office

In my recent post on a handkerchief capsule collection, there were quite a few questions about commuting to work by bike. They can be summarised as: What should I keep in the office, and at home? How do I rotate them ...

Casual wear - How toJanuary 28th 2016

Video: How to press suit trousers

November 20th 2015

This is the last instalment in our series on looking after suits at home. The first showed how to brush and generally maintain suits, and the second how to press a jacket. You can see them at those links. It’s b...

Video: How to press suit trousers

This is the last instalment in our series on looking after suits at home. The first showed how to brush and generally maintain suits, and the second how to press a jacket. You can see them at those links. It’s b...

Alterations and maintenance - How toNovember 20th 2015

How smart is my tie?

September 25th 2015

A few weeks a reader asked for a post on what makes a tie more or less formal, smart or not. It’s a very relevant question. Few men today wear ties, but when they do, they rarely want them to be as smart as the ...

How smart is my tie?

A few weeks a reader asked for a post on what makes a tie more or less formal, smart or not. It’s a very relevant question. Few men today wear ties, but when they do, they rarely want them to be as smart as the ...

How to - Shirts and tiesSeptember 25th 2015

What is worth being made bespoke?

August 21st 2015

Re-fitting for a Simone Abbarchi shirt, Florence In comments to Friday’s post on my ‘go-to’ clothing, readers said they would like to see a post suggesting which types of clothing it is most worth ha...

What is worth being made bespoke?

Re-fitting for a Simone Abbarchi shirt, Florence In comments to Friday’s post on my ‘go-to’ clothing, readers said they would like to see a post suggesting which types of clothing it is most worth ha...

How to - OvercoatsAugust 21st 2015

Do I need black shoes (and if so, which?) – R...

August 6th 2015

As with many reader questions, this one evolved over several email messages back and forth. I know Joel won’t mind if I restructure that exchange into a conversation, in order to put the inquiries in the right o...

Do I need black shoes (and if so, which?) – R...

As with many reader questions, this one evolved over several email messages back and forth. I know Joel won’t mind if I restructure that exchange into a conversation, in order to put the inquiries in the right o...

Derby - How toAugust 6th 2015

Interview: Frederic Malle, selecting perfume

June 8th 2015

It wouldn’t be an exaggeration to say that Frederic Malle is the godfather of modern perfume. He was responsible for the first collections to champion the perfumer, back when designer brands were just starting to...

Interview: Frederic Malle, selecting perfume

It wouldn’t be an exaggeration to say that Frederic Malle is the godfather of modern perfume. He was responsible for the first collections to champion the perfumer, back when designer brands were just starting to...

How to - PerfumeJune 8th 2015

How shoes should fit

May 7th 2015

I have received a few questions on this 2009 post about how shoes wear over time recently, and note that there is no post that sets out the basics of how a shoe should fit. Let’s start with a simple summary. A sh...

How shoes should fit

I have received a few questions on this 2009 post about how shoes wear over time recently, and note that there is no post that sets out the basics of how a shoe should fit. Let’s start with a simple summary. A sh...

Boot - How toMay 7th 2015

What we write about when we write about quality

September 8th 2014

Two of my regular columns appear this week – one for We Are the Market and the other for How to Spend It. In the first, available here, I look at the problem of assessing quality in menswear. Bespoke is easy to ass...

What we write about when we write about quality

Two of my regular columns appear this week – one for We Are the Market and the other for How to Spend It. In the first, available here, I look at the problem of assessing quality in menswear. Bespoke is easy to ass...

How toSeptember 8th 2014

What makes a quality shirt?

August 27th 2014

Dear Simon, I believe that I’ve read every post you’ve written about shirts. Italian, Spanish, British, even the one on Charvet in How To Spend It. I’m always looking for the same thing but still hav...

What makes a quality shirt?

Dear Simon, I believe that I’ve read every post you’ve written about shirts. Italian, Spanish, British, even the one on Charvet in How To Spend It. I’m always looking for the same thing but still hav...

How to - Reader questionsAugust 27th 2014

Five tips on bespoke shoes

July 7th 2014

I do like it when readers suggest posts. You feel you’re fulfilling a need. Two weeks ago, on Five Tips on Bespoke Suits, a reader requested a similar post on bespoke shoes, so here it is. 1 Be conservative I kno...

Five tips on bespoke shoes

I do like it when readers suggest posts. You feel you’re fulfilling a need. Two weeks ago, on Five Tips on Bespoke Suits, a reader requested a similar post on bespoke shoes, so here it is. 1 Be conservative I kno...

How to - OxfordJuly 7th 2014

How to buy a watch, part 3: Style

May 28th 2014

Following my recent posts on how to assess value in watches, and my own collection, here is my advice on style. Metals As a general rule of thumb, it is good to be consistent with metals on your jewellery. If you have ...

How to buy a watch, part 3: Style

Following my recent posts on how to assess value in watches, and my own collection, here is my advice on style. Metals As a general rule of thumb, it is good to be consistent with metals on your jewellery. If you have ...

Accessories - How toMay 28th 2014

How to buy a watch, part 2: My watches

May 19th 2014

Following my first post in this series, on buying value in a watch, here are a few pictures of my own watches. A few readers have asked for details of what I wear myself, and these will be useful reference points for t...

How to buy a watch, part 2: My watches

Following my first post in this series, on buying value in a watch, here are a few pictures of my own watches. A few readers have asked for details of what I wear myself, and these will be useful reference points for t...

Accessories - How toMay 19th 2014

How to buy a watch, part 1: Value

April 17th 2014

A watch is your greatest investment piece. You may wear it every day of your life. It can enhance every outfit you ever wear (except black tie and beachwear, perhaps). It is worth saving up for more than anything. But ...

How to buy a watch, part 1: Value

A watch is your greatest investment piece. You may wear it every day of your life. It can enhance every outfit you ever wear (except black tie and beachwear, perhaps). It is worth saving up for more than anything. But ...

Accessories - How toApril 17th 2014

How to stretch a sweater

March 5th 2014

I’ve always loved little jobs that can adapt a piece of clothing or improve it. I’ve adjusted knitwear in the past to narrow it, as well as put darts in shirts, and it’s probably the reason I love pol...

How to stretch a sweater

I’ve always loved little jobs that can adapt a piece of clothing or improve it. I’ve adjusted knitwear in the past to narrow it, as well as put darts in shirts, and it’s probably the reason I love pol...

Casual wear - How toMarch 5th 2014

Cleverley sample sale on Wednesday

December 16th 2013

Cleverley is having a last-minute sale on Wednesday, selling off bespoke shoes that weren’t picked up, were made in the wrong colour or for whatever other reason (other than quality) were never sold. There are 25 ...

Cleverley sample sale on Wednesday

Cleverley is having a last-minute sale on Wednesday, selling off bespoke shoes that weren’t picked up, were made in the wrong colour or for whatever other reason (other than quality) were never sold. There are 25 ...

How to - ShoesDecember 16th 2013

How to buy a suit

December 9th 2013

A colleague recently asked me for advice on buying a suit – probably navy, certainly single-breasted, possibly three-button. It’s the kind of everyday question that I get asked a lot, and probably concerns fa...

How to buy a suit

A colleague recently asked me for advice on buying a suit – probably navy, certainly single-breasted, possibly three-button. It’s the kind of everyday question that I get asked a lot, and probably concerns fa...

How to - SuitsDecember 9th 2013

A (Christmas) word from our sponsors

November 18th 2013

One of the nice things about having nice advertisers is the range of Christmas shopping ideas they present. Here are my favourites. Among the best additions to the collection at Drake’s are the untipped cashmeres i...

A (Christmas) word from our sponsors

One of the nice things about having nice advertisers is the range of Christmas shopping ideas they present. Here are my favourites. Among the best additions to the collection at Drake’s are the untipped cashmeres i...

Accessories - BagsNovember 18th 2013

How to buy good-value clothes

October 25th 2013

Dear Simon, I’ve been reading Permanent Style for many years now, but recently went scurrying back through older posts for advice. Having decided I should go straight to the source, I write to you today. In the...

How to buy good-value clothes

Dear Simon, I’ve been reading Permanent Style for many years now, but recently went scurrying back through older posts for advice. Having decided I should go straight to the source, I write to you today. In the...

How to - OxfordOctober 25th 2013

John Carnera with his 1987 shoes

September 19th 2013

Last week John Carnera at Cleverley’s had a pair of his shoes, dating back to 1987, in for a resole. John doesn’t work full time any more, but still helps out with a bit of the pattern cutting and repairs. Se...

John Carnera with his 1987 shoes

Last week John Carnera at Cleverley’s had a pair of his shoes, dating back to 1987, in for a resole. John doesn’t work full time any more, but still helps out with a bit of the pattern cutting and repairs. Se...

How to - ShoesSeptember 19th 2013

How to buy good shoes

August 12th 2013

“If you want to know if a guy is well dressed, look down.” So said US columnist George Frazier back in the 1950s, and his words have never been more true. Men who spend too little on their shoes end up wit...

How to buy good shoes

“If you want to know if a guy is well dressed, look down.” So said US columnist George Frazier back in the 1950s, and his words have never been more true. Men who spend too little on their shoes end up wit...

How to - OxfordAugust 12th 2013

How to buy fragrance – the perfumes

August 2nd 2013

Following the recent post on how to buy fragrance, this is the second installment – the brands I like and some suggestions of ones to look for. First, though, a reader asked about the difference between molecular a...

How to buy fragrance – the perfumes

Following the recent post on how to buy fragrance, this is the second installment – the brands I like and some suggestions of ones to look for. First, though, a reader asked about the difference between molecular a...

How to - PerfumeAugust 2nd 2013

Italy’s mills and merchants explained

July 29th 2013

  This is a follow-up to my popular post on English mills and cloth merchants: how to tell them apart, how they are related and how to select between them (basically, don’t; there is little difference). Ital...

Italy’s mills and merchants explained

  This is a follow-up to my popular post on English mills and cloth merchants: how to tell them apart, how they are related and how to select between them (basically, don’t; there is little difference). Ital...

Cloth - How toJuly 29th 2013

How to wear fragrance

July 17th 2013

If men are scared of colour, pattern and real trousers they are terrified of perfume. If they sometimes turn to fashion brands for reassurance in their clothing, they do so constantly with fragrance. It is much-misunders...

How to wear fragrance

If men are scared of colour, pattern and real trousers they are terrified of perfume. If they sometimes turn to fashion brands for reassurance in their clothing, they do so constantly with fragrance. It is much-misunders...

How to - PerfumeJuly 17th 2013

How to buy a panama hat

July 12th 2013

A well-made Panama hat is an exquisite creation. Crafted from fine, closely woven straw, it is soft, cool and breathable, yet structured enough to hold an elegant shape. It is simple and supple – the result of o...

How to buy a panama hat

A well-made Panama hat is an exquisite creation. Crafted from fine, closely woven straw, it is soft, cool and breathable, yet structured enough to hold an elegant shape. It is simple and supple – the result of o...

Accessories - HatsJuly 12th 2013

How to pick buttons for a suit

June 14th 2013

Simon,

 I am a loyal fan in San Francisco. Your style, commentary and photos are extremely helpful in navigating the bespoke world, and more importantly, developing my style. Question: my tailor is making a navy thr...

How to pick buttons for a suit

Simon,

 I am a loyal fan in San Francisco. Your style, commentary and photos are extremely helpful in navigating the bespoke world, and more importantly, developing my style. Question: my tailor is making a navy thr...

How to - SuitsJune 14th 2013

How to buy a fountain pen

May 12th 2013

As has often been said, the art of life is to appreciate all of the pleasures in one’s daily routine. Of those pleasures, writing has perhaps lost appreciation faster than any other, swept aside by the keyboard a...

How to buy a fountain pen

As has often been said, the art of life is to appreciate all of the pleasures in one’s daily routine. Of those pleasures, writing has perhaps lost appreciation faster than any other, swept aside by the keyboard a...

Accessories - How toMay 12th 2013

How to buy cycling clothing

April 12th 2013

Cycling clothing has come a long way in recent years. A market dominated by cheap, mass-manufactured jerseys has broadened into high-tech racing gear, east-London fashion and practical commuter clothes. Cycling gear u...

How to buy cycling clothing

Cycling clothing has come a long way in recent years. A market dominated by cheap, mass-manufactured jerseys has broadened into high-tech racing gear, east-London fashion and practical commuter clothes. Cycling gear u...

Casual wear - How toApril 12th 2013

How to buy a leather bag

March 12th 2013

Leather bags are unique among men’s accessories. A good one will last a lifetime and, if treated well, look better at the end than the beginning of your life together. Only leather has this attribute, gaining an...

How to buy a leather bag

Leather bags are unique among men’s accessories. A good one will last a lifetime and, if treated well, look better at the end than the beginning of your life together. Only leather has this attribute, gaining an...

Accessories - BagsMarch 12th 2013

How to buy a suit

February 12th 2013

Men are not interested in the clothing of celebrities. At the most, the endorsement of a film star, a magazine or a fashion brand is a shortcut, a sanction. A man’s number one priority is not looking stupid, and...

How to buy a suit

Men are not interested in the clothing of celebrities. At the most, the endorsement of a film star, a magazine or a fashion brand is a shortcut, a sanction. A man’s number one priority is not looking stupid, and...

How to - SuitsFebruary 12th 2013

How to pack a suit jacket: Reader question

September 27th 2012

Hi Simon, First of all let me say I’m a massive fan of your blog. In fact I’ve even cancelled my GQ subscription because of your blog. Doesn’t mean you should start charging us though! I was wondering i...

How to pack a suit jacket: Reader question

Hi Simon, First of all let me say I’m a massive fan of your blog. In fact I’ve even cancelled my GQ subscription because of your blog. Doesn’t mean you should start charging us though! I was wondering i...

Alterations and maintenance - How toSeptember 27th 2012

Buying a versatile black shoe: Reader question

June 29th 2012

The best of both worlds? An Alfred Sargent Armfield Dear Simon, I have a quick question regarding black shoes that I thought you might be able to help with. I’m thinking of investing in a good pair of versatile bla...

Buying a versatile black shoe: Reader question

The best of both worlds? An Alfred Sargent Armfield Dear Simon, I have a quick question regarding black shoes that I thought you might be able to help with. I’m thinking of investing in a good pair of versatile bla...

How to - OxfordJune 29th 2012

Reader question: Looking after ties

April 16th 2012

Dear Simon, Having read with great interest all your articles (over many, many hours – I am a late-comer to your site) I have been amassing information. Now that I have actually started to purchase clothes etc, the...

Reader question: Looking after ties

Dear Simon, Having read with great interest all your articles (over many, many hours – I am a late-comer to your site) I have been amassing information. Now that I have actually started to purchase clothes etc, the...

How to - Reader questionsApril 16th 2012

How to stop sweaters pilling

March 14th 2012

Good knitwear needs to be looked after, tempting though it is to think that it rarely needs cleaning or anything else. A regular clean does more than just stop the piece smelling: it also brings up the fibres, brings bac...

How to stop sweaters pilling

Good knitwear needs to be looked after, tempting though it is to think that it rarely needs cleaning or anything else. A regular clean does more than just stop the piece smelling: it also brings up the fibres, brings bac...

Casual wear - How toMarch 14th 2012

Buy good English shoes

January 25th 2012

Good English shoes are pretty much always worth the money you pay for them. Three things reminded me of this in recent weeks. One was a friend’s wedding. After years of buying in the low end of the market, he bough...

Buy good English shoes

Good English shoes are pretty much always worth the money you pay for them. Three things reminded me of this in recent weeks. One was a friend’s wedding. After years of buying in the low end of the market, he bough...

How to - OxfordJanuary 25th 2012

How to buy quality shoes

October 18th 2011

I contributed a fairly practical piece on buying good shoes to newspaper City AM a few weeks ago. Interested readers can find it here....

How to buy quality shoes

I contributed a fairly practical piece on buying good shoes to newspaper City AM a few weeks ago. Interested readers can find it here....

How to - ShoesOctober 18th 2011

Five tips on shoes

June 3rd 2011

The tips on looking good in a pair of shoes are simpler, in a way, than those for suits. They come down to two things: spend as much money as you can afford, because you are buying value and longevity; and look after the...

Five tips on shoes

The tips on looking good in a pair of shoes are simpler, in a way, than those for suits. They come down to two things: spend as much money as you can afford, because you are buying value and longevity; and look after the...

How to - ShoesJune 3rd 2011

A lovely evening sewing a sweater

October 20th 2010

There is such pleasure in looking after good clothes well. One of the reasons shoes are my favourite piece of clothing is they actually get better with age: the upper shapes to your foot; perhaps more importantly, the in...

A lovely evening sewing a sweater

There is such pleasure in looking after good clothes well. One of the reasons shoes are my favourite piece of clothing is they actually get better with age: the upper shapes to your foot; perhaps more importantly, the in...

Casual wear - How toOctober 20th 2010

Edward Green: Tips on fitting

May 17th 2010

Continuing the Edward Green theme of last week, a recent acquisition of Asquiths had been proving rather uncomfortable so I took them with me to Northampton to get some advice. This resulted in two tips on fitting. First...

Edward Green: Tips on fitting

Continuing the Edward Green theme of last week, a recent acquisition of Asquiths had been proving rather uncomfortable so I took them with me to Northampton to get some advice. This resulted in two tips on fitting. First...

How to - OxfordMay 17th 2010

Building a shoe collection – the pleasures!

December 30th 2009

A friend of mine started investing in good shoes around six months ago. I find it reassuring that I get such vicarious pleasure out of it: perhaps I’m not as self-centred as all that. His first pair was a lovely se...

Building a shoe collection – the pleasures!

A friend of mine started investing in good shoes around six months ago. I find it reassuring that I get such vicarious pleasure out of it: perhaps I’m not as self-centred as all that. His first pair was a lovely se...

Derby - How toDecember 30th 2009

Remember, leather stretches

May 29th 2009

Shoemakers can do a lot to help you decide which size is right for you. They can feel in which places your foot is hard against the edge. They can judge the clearance at the instep by how far the laces tighten. And they ...

Remember, leather stretches

Shoemakers can do a lot to help you decide which size is right for you. They can feel in which places your foot is hard against the edge. They can judge the clearance at the instep by how far the laces tighten. And they ...

How to - ShoesMay 29th 2009

How to tailor your sweaters

February 12th 2009

When you are not used to it, wearing a bespoke shirt is surprisingly satisfying. The two things you notice are that the collar fits without having to hang around the chest, and that the cut accentuates your waist without...

How to tailor your sweaters

When you are not used to it, wearing a bespoke shirt is surprisingly satisfying. The two things you notice are that the collar fits without having to hang around the chest, and that the cut accentuates your waist without...

Accessories - How toFebruary 12th 2009

Reader question: Wet shoes

December 27th 2008

Rob, London: I keep buying what I think are decent shoes (Barker brogues x2 and Loake Oxfords x1) with leather soles. I’ve found they soak up water when I wear them on a wet day. It is coming through the soles! Are...

Reader question: Wet shoes

Rob, London: I keep buying what I think are decent shoes (Barker brogues x2 and Loake Oxfords x1) with leather soles. I’ve found they soak up water when I wear them on a wet day. It is coming through the soles! Are...

How to - OxfordDecember 27th 2008

How to buy luxury: Notebooks

August 31st 2008

Those familiar with my How to Buy Luxury series will remember that I have a few straightforward guidelines for buying luxury effectively. (Here luxury will be defined as whatever is just beyond the top end of your budget...

How to buy luxury: Notebooks

Those familiar with my How to Buy Luxury series will remember that I have a few straightforward guidelines for buying luxury effectively. (Here luxury will be defined as whatever is just beyond the top end of your budget...

Accessories - Belts and walletsAugust 31st 2008

How to look after your suits

August 2nd 2008

Many people look after their suits badly. This may seem obvious. After all men hang their suits on pegs, leave them on the floor after a day’s wear and occasionally bundle them into bags. For the most expensive pie...

How to look after your suits

Many people look after their suits badly. This may seem obvious. After all men hang their suits on pegs, leave them on the floor after a day’s wear and occasionally bundle them into bags. For the most expensive pie...

Alterations and maintenance - How toAugust 2nd 2008

The Berluti shoelace knot

June 18th 2008

Last October, I was wondering around the Mall of the Emirates in Dubai. An absurdly largely shopping centre that contains its own Italian street and indoor ski slope, it has the best shopping in the Middle East. (Or did....

The Berluti shoelace knot

Last October, I was wondering around the Mall of the Emirates in Dubai. An absurdly largely shopping centre that contains its own Italian street and indoor ski slope, it has the best shopping in the Middle East. (Or did....

How to - OxfordJune 18th 2008

How to put darts in your shirts

May 23rd 2008

I used to have a few shirts that I really liked but which did not fit especially well around the waist. They were bought in the days when I knew a lot less about fit and cloth (hard to imagine, isn’t it?), and whil...

How to put darts in your shirts

I used to have a few shirts that I really liked but which did not fit especially well around the waist. They were bought in the days when I knew a lot less about fit and cloth (hard to imagine, isn’t it?), and whil...

How to - ShirtsMay 23rd 2008

A hidden gem in London

January 23rd 2008

John Rushton shoes is an oasis of personal and professional service. At the very least, it seemed like an oasis to me last Saturday. I had spent a hellish three hours in the shoe department of Selfridge’s, in the m...

A hidden gem in London

John Rushton shoes is an oasis of personal and professional service. At the very least, it seemed like an oasis to me last Saturday. I had spent a hellish three hours in the shoe department of Selfridge’s, in the m...

Derby - How toJanuary 23rd 2008