Italy’s mills and merchants explained

July 29th 2013

  This is a follow-up to my popular post on English mills and cloth merchants: how to tell them apart, how they are related and how to select between them (basically, don’t; there is little difference). Italian mills are a lot simple...

Italy’s mills and merchants explained

  This is a follow-up to my popular post on English mills and cloth merchants: how to tell them apart, how they are related and how to select between them (basically, don’t; there is little difference).   Italian...

Cloth - How toJuly 29th 2013

How to buy quality perfume

July 17th 2013

If men are scared of colour, pattern and real trousers then they are terrified of perfume. If they sometimes turn to fashion brands for reassurance in their clothing, they do so constantly with fragrance. It is much-misunderstood and misused. B...

How to buy quality perfume

  If men are scared of colour, pattern and real trousers then they are terrified of perfume.   If they sometimes turn to fashion brands for reassurance in their clothing, they do so constantly with fragrance. It is mu...

How to - PerfumeJuly 17th 2013

How to buy a quality panama

July 12th 2013

A well-made panama hat is an exquisite creation. Crafted from fine, closely woven straw, it is soft, cool and breathable, yet structured enough to hold an elegant shape. It is simple and supple – the result of one of the most delicate skills in...

How to buy a quality panama

A well-made panama hat is an exquisite creation. Crafted from fine, closely woven straw, it is soft, cool and breathable, yet structured enough to hold an elegant shape. It is simple and supple – the result of one of t...

Accessories - HatsJuly 12th 2013

How to pick buttons for a suit

June 14th 2013

Simon,

 I am a loyal fan in San Francisco. Your style, commentary and photos are extremely helpful in navigating the bespoke world, and more importantly, developing my style. Question: my tailor is making a navy three-piece suit, single breasted...

How to pick buttons for a suit

Simon,

 I am a loyal fan in San Francisco. Your style, commentary and photos are extremely helpful in navigating the bespoke world, and more importantly, developing my style. Question: my tailor is making a navy th...

How to - SuitsJune 14th 2013

How to buy a quality fountain pen

May 12th 2013

It has been said that the art of life is to appreciate all of the pleasures in one’s daily routine. Of those pleasures, writing has perhaps lost appreciation faster than any other, swept aside by the keyboard and the disposable biro. Yet fine...

How to buy a quality fountain pen

  It has been said that the art of life is to appreciate all of the pleasures in one’s daily routine. Of those pleasures, writing has perhaps lost appreciation faster than any other, swept aside by the keyboard and th...

Accessories - How toMay 12th 2013

How to buy cycling clothing

April 12th 2013

Cycling clothing has come a long way in recent years. A market dominated by cheap, mass-manufactured jerseys has broadened into high-tech racing gear, east-London fashion and practical commuter clothes. Cycling gear used to be garish and cheap bec...

How to buy cycling clothing

   Cycling clothing has come a long way in recent years. A market dominated by cheap, mass-manufactured jerseys has broadened into high-tech racing gear, east-London fashion and practical commuter clothes. Cycling gear...

Casual wear - How toApril 12th 2013

How to buy a quality leather bag

March 12th 2013

Leather bags are unique among men’s accessories. A good one will last a lifetime and, if treated well, will look better at the end than the beginning of your life together. Only leather has this attribute, gaining an individual patina from t...

How to buy a quality leather bag

   Leather bags are unique among men’s accessories. A good one will last a lifetime and, if treated well, will look better at the end than the beginning of your life together. Only leather has this attribute, gaining...

Accessories - BagsMarch 12th 2013

How to buy a quality suit

February 12th 2013

  Men are not interested in the clothing of celebrities. At the most, the endorsement of a film star, a magazine or a fashion brand is an endorsement, a shortcut. A man’s number one priority is not looking stupid, and popular culture i...

How to buy a quality suit

  Men are not interested in the clothing of celebrities. At the most, the endorsement of a film star, a magazine or a fashion brand is an endorsement, a shortcut. A man’s number one priority is not looking stupid,...

How to - SuitsFebruary 12th 2013

How to pack a suit jacket: Reader question

September 27th 2012

Hi Simon, First of all let me say I’m a massive fan of your blog. In fact I’ve even cancelled my GQ subscription because of your blog. Doesn’t mean you should start charging us though! I was wondering if you could do a p...

How to pack a suit jacket: Reader question

Hi Simon, First of all let me say I’m a massive fan of your blog. In fact I’ve even cancelled my GQ subscription because of your blog. Doesn’t mean you should start charging us though! I was wondering i...

Alterations and maintenance - How toSeptember 27th 2012

Buying a versatile black shoe: Reader question

June 29th 2012

The best of both worlds? An Alfred Sargent Armfield Dear Simon, I have a quick question regarding black shoes that I thought you might be able to help with. I’m thinking of investing in a good pair of versatile black shoes that I can wear f...

Buying a versatile black shoe: Reader question

The best of both worlds? An Alfred Sargent Armfield Dear Simon, I have a quick question regarding black shoes that I thought you might be able to help with. I’m thinking of investing in a good pair of versatile bla...

How to - OxfordJune 29th 2012

Reader question: Looking after ties

April 16th 2012

Dear Simon, Having read with great interest all your articles (over many, many hours – I am a late-comer to your site) I have been amassing information. Now that I have actually started to purchase clothes etc, the question I have of ties, whic...

Reader question: Looking after ties

Dear Simon, Having read with great interest all your articles (over many, many hours – I am a late-comer to your site) I have been amassing information. Now that I have actually started to purchase clothes etc, the que...

How to - Reader questionsApril 16th 2012

How to stop sweaters pilling

March 14th 2012

Good knitwear needs to be looked after, tempting though it is to think that it rarely needs cleaning or anything else. A regular clean does more than just stop the piece smelling: it also brings up the fibres, brings back colour and, perhaps unexpect...

How to stop sweaters pilling

Good knitwear needs to be looked after, tempting though it is to think that it rarely needs cleaning or anything else. A regular clean does more than just stop the piece smelling: it also brings up the fibres, brings bac...

Casual wear - How toMarch 14th 2012

Buy good English shoes

January 25th 2012

Good English shoes are pretty much always worth the money you pay for them. Three things reminded me of this in recent weeks. One was a friend’s wedding. After years of buying in the low end of the market, he bought a pair from Crockett �...

Buy good English shoes

Good English shoes are pretty much always worth the money you pay for them. Three things reminded me of this in recent weeks. One was a friend’s wedding. After years of buying in the low end of the market, he bought a ...

How to - OxfordJanuary 25th 2012

Five tips on shoes

June 3rd 2011

The tips on looking good in a pair of shoes are simpler, in a way, than those for suits. They come down to two things: spend as much money as you can afford, because you are buying value and longevity; and look after them well, because you will be re...

Five tips on shoes

The tips on looking good in a pair of shoes are simpler, in a way, than those for suits. They come down to two things: spend as much money as you can afford, because you are buying value and longevity; and look after the...

How to - ShoesJune 3rd 2011

A lovely evening sewing a sweater

October 20th 2010

There is such pleasure in looking after good clothes well. One of the reasons shoes are my favourite piece of clothing is they actually get better with age: the upper shapes to your foot; perhaps more importantly, the insole does too; and the leather...

A lovely evening sewing a sweater

There is such pleasure in looking after good clothes well. One of the reasons shoes are my favourite piece of clothing is they actually get better with age: the upper shapes to your foot; perhaps more importantly, the in...

Casual wear - How toOctober 20th 2010

Edward Green: Tips on fitting

May 17th 2010

Continuing the Edward Green theme of last week, a recent acquisition of Asquiths had been proving rather uncomfortable so I took them with me to Northampton to get some advice. This resulted in two tips on fitting. First, half brogues can be uncomfor...

Edward Green: Tips on fitting

Continuing the Edward Green theme of last week, a recent acquisition of Asquiths had been proving rather uncomfortable so I took them with me to Northampton to get some advice. This resulted in two tips on fitting. First...

How to - OxfordMay 17th 2010

Building a shoe collection – the pleasures!

December 30th 2009

A friend of mine started investing in good shoes around six months ago. I find it reassuring that I get such vicarious pleasure out of it: perhaps I’m not as self-centred as all that. His first pair was a lovely set of mid-brown, cap-toe Derbys...

Building a shoe collection – the pleasures!

A friend of mine started investing in good shoes around six months ago. I find it reassuring that I get such vicarious pleasure out of it: perhaps I’m not as self-centred as all that. His first pair was a lovely set of...

Derby - How toDecember 30th 2009

Remember, leather stretches

May 29th 2009

Shoemakers can do a lot to help you decide which size is right for you. They can feel in which places your foot is hard against the edge. They can judge the clearance at the instep by how far the laces tighten. And they can look for any slippage of y...

Remember, leather stretches

Shoemakers can do a lot to help you decide which size is right for you. They can feel in which places your foot is hard against the edge. They can judge the clearance at the instep by how far the laces tighten. And they ...

How to - ShoesMay 29th 2009

How to tailor your sweaters

February 12th 2009

When you are not used to it, wearing a bespoke shirt is surprisingly satisfying. The two things you notice are that the collar fits without having to hang around the chest, and that the cut accentuates your waist without feeling anywhere tight. Catch...

How to tailor your sweaters

When you are not used to it, wearing a bespoke shirt is surprisingly satisfying. The two things you notice are that the collar fits without having to hang around the chest, and that the cut accentuates your waist without...

Accessories - How toFebruary 12th 2009

Reader question: Wet shoes

December 27th 2008

Rob, London: I keep buying what I think are decent shoes (Barker brogues x2 and Loake Oxfords x1) with leather soles. I’ve found they soak up water when I wear them on a wet day. It is coming through the soles! Are my shoes not a good enough qu...

Reader question: Wet shoes

Rob, London: I keep buying what I think are decent shoes (Barker brogues x2 and Loake Oxfords x1) with leather soles. I’ve found they soak up water when I wear them on a wet day. It is coming through the soles! Are my ...

How to - OxfordDecember 27th 2008

How to buy luxury: Notebooks

August 31st 2008

Those familiar with my How to Buy Luxury series will remember that I have a few straightforward guidelines for buying luxury effectively. (Here luxury will be defined as whatever is just beyond the top end of your budget – go on, be a little ir...

How to buy luxury: Notebooks

Those familiar with my How to Buy Luxury series will remember that I have a few straightforward guidelines for buying luxury effectively. (Here luxury will be defined as whatever is just beyond the top end of your budget...

Accessories - Belts and walletsAugust 31st 2008

How to look after your suits

August 2nd 2008

Many people look after their suits badly. This may seem obvious. After all men hang their suits on pegs, leave them on the floor after a day’s wear and occasionally bundle them into bags. For the most expensive piece of clothing a man owns, it ...

How to look after your suits

Many people look after their suits badly. This may seem obvious. After all men hang their suits on pegs, leave them on the floor after a day’s wear and occasionally bundle them into bags. For the most expensive piece o...

Alterations and maintenance - How toAugust 2nd 2008

The Berluti shoelace knot

June 18th 2008

Last October, I was wondering around the Mall of the Emirates in Dubai. An absurdly largely shopping centre that contains its own Italian street and indoor ski slope, it has the best shopping in the Middle East. (Or did. So many of these things are g...

The Berluti shoelace knot

Last October, I was wondering around the Mall of the Emirates in Dubai. An absurdly largely shopping centre that contains its own Italian street and indoor ski slope, it has the best shopping in the Middle East. (Or did....

How to - OxfordJune 18th 2008

How to put darts in your shirts

May 23rd 2008

I used to have a few shirts that I really liked but which did not fit especially well around the waist. They were bought in the days when I knew a lot less about fit and cloth (hard to imagine, isn’t it?), and while the neck, shoulders and slee...

How to put darts in your shirts

I used to have a few shirts that I really liked but which did not fit especially well around the waist. They were bought in the days when I knew a lot less about fit and cloth (hard to imagine, isn’t it?), and while th...

How to - ShirtsMay 23rd 2008

A hidden gem in London

January 23rd 2008

John Rushton shoes is an oasis of personal and professional service. At the very least, it seemed like an oasis to me last Saturday. I had spent a hellish three hours in the shoe department of Selfridge’s, in the middle of the January sales. Ra...

A hidden gem in London

John Rushton shoes is an oasis of personal and professional service. At the very least, it seemed like an oasis to me last Saturday. I had spent a hellish three hours in the shoe department of Selfridge’s, in the middl...

Derby - How toJanuary 23rd 2008