Three things I’ve bought on lockdown: Steve...
April 10th 2020Although my purchasing has certainly slowed in recent weeks, I have continued to buy things that seemed practical, or which I wanted to try in order to cover on Permanent Style. Time at home means burrowing into your closet, experimenting with old ...
Three things I’ve bought on lockdown: Steve...
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It's a little lower, but I didn't find it too low...
The T-shirt under a shirt (and tailoring)
March 18th 2020A couple of weeks ago, we looked at a relatively casual outfit - and how elements such as a baseball cap or bright knitwear could make classic menswear less formal, with some Ivy influences. Today I’d like to talk about one element that I find...
The T-shirt under a shirt (and tailoring)
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I like the pin. I wonder how many of the people objecting to it would object to a poppy or a cross....
Introducing: The button-down Friday Polo
February 12th 2020Picking what to offer in this next iteration of the Friday Polo was not a hard decision. So many readers have asked in the past few months for a button-down version of the PS polo. That may be because there are more out there at the moment; or it m...
Introducing: The button-down Friday Polo
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I like both actually Tom - we don't sell the regular version currently though...
Alfredo Rifugio: Luxury Neapolitan leather jackets
November 15th 2019Rifugio is a Neapolitan leather manufacturer, which in the past three years has followed a path well-trodden by many modern makers: leaving pure manufacturing to set up their own brand. I’ve seen several Rifugio pieces over the past couple of...
Alfredo Rifugio: Luxury Neapolitan leather jackets
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Yes it is - it's not a big difference at this end of the market, but they are generally using finer suedes and leathers...
Seraphin made-to-order project with Connolly
October 29th 2019*UPDATE: The offer has now launched, and the jackets are available to order in the Connolly shop, or by phone, until December 10th. Sizes and measurements of the jacket are included at the bottom of this post. Sleeve lengths can be altered. If you w...
Seraphin made-to-order project with Connolly
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I don't I'm afraid Brendan, but it has always been very small - most of it is for Hermes. But yes, hopefully we can do these again... Worth emailing the support team to add your name to the waiting list if you want, then...
Retrospecs gold, Chapal sheep, Informale twill, L...
September 18th 2019So, there was a pair of Retrospecs sunglasses. From the 1930s - originals, as all Retrospecs are. In rolled gold, not the cheaper-looking gold plate. Filigree work around the frame - all of which is different for each tiny batch. Perfect fit. But I ...
Retrospecs gold, Chapal sheep, Informale twill, L...
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No problem Stanley, and I hope you get many years of happy wear out of it...
King & Tuckfield: Evolutionary fifties fashion
August 23rd 2019I recently got to know Stacey Wood of King & Tuckfield , and think - despite a fashion-oriented look that might initially put some readers off - that some of the brand’s pieces are appealing variations on the menswear staples we love. ...
King & Tuckfield: Evolutionary fifties fashion
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Age is just a number. Many people looks younger who crossed more than fifties....
Hand-dyed Mandarin jacket from Prologue
August 16th 2019In the past five years, it feels like everyone has started doing some kind of shirt-jacket. It was a natural extension of the soft tailoring trend, perhaps, and it certainly gained traction when shirtmakers realised they could offer this too - a we...
Hand-dyed Mandarin jacket from Prologue
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This is a really good idea! In summer I frequently wear Indonesian batik shirts that are cut almost exactly like your mandarin jacket. I really really love them. Why not make a summer jacket of the same cut? It's simple ...
Editing Instagram: Dressing for different walks o...
August 7th 2019Great as Instagram is, a definite flaw is its lack of an effective archive. There’s no way to search old images, so unless you save an image yourself, you can’t find old pieces or browse effectively. Just as important a fr...
Editing Instagram: Dressing for different walks o...
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Anyone know Peter’s height? Just curious....
Sartoria Melina nubuck bomber jacket
June 21st 2019I liked the made-to-measure jacket I got from Sartoria Melina in 2017 so much, that last year I commissioned something new. This is it: their bomber-jacket style, in a tan colour of their signature nubuck leather. Having worn it for a few months (th...
Sartoria Melina nubuck bomber jacket
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I think so, yes. And to be honest, I'd go for the dark brown over the tobacco as well, if it were me. Even if it seems more boring. It will go with more other things in your wardrobe too...
A Pitti diary: The experience, the brands, the pa...
June 19th 2019Pitti is a long trade show: four full days, when most are usually three. As a result, by Friday everyone is exhausted, with selling, talking, and late dinners. Although it does depend on why you’re there. Most people fall into one of three gro...
A Pitti diary: The experience, the brands, the pa...
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Thanks. De Bonne Facture are lovely - not always my kind of style, but they make great pieces...
Our Spring/Summer Top 10, 2019
April 24th 2019Last week the weather in London turned from 12 degrees to 22 in a couple of days. It seems that what passes for the English Spring is finally here. Of course, with most shops and brands Spring/Summer collections arrived in February, and went on sale...
Our Spring/Summer Top 10, 2019
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Probably, yes, aside from vintage versions...
Introducing: The reversible Valstarino
April 12th 2019The Valstarino - Valstar’s button-up suede blouson - has been very popular among fans of classic menswear in recent years. Although that shouldn’t be generally surprising given its quality and heritage, I do think it’s become parti...
Introducing: The reversible Valstarino
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Thanks Jan, always appreciated. I'll change that now...
Saman Amel, Licia Luchini, Billy Tannery: Things ...
April 5th 2019This is a post rounding up three recent made-to-measure commissions that for different reasons, didn’t quite work out. As ever with the reviews and commentary, all three brands are aware of the issues, and we have already talked about what can...
Saman Amel, Licia Luchini, Billy Tannery: Things ...
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If you haven't already, can I recommend Aero Leather in Galashiels as a place to try out a bespoke-style experience for leather jackets. They have a wide array of leathers - their double-sided goat suede is particularly ...
Seeing the trees for the wood: Connolly and Yard-...
March 15th 2019A reader recently asked whether there was anything I particularly liked on The Rake’s online shop , given how much they’ve added in the past year. I feel I know why he’s asking. The Rake has added so much product recently that it&r...
Seeing the trees for the wood: Connolly and Yard-...
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I don't know the details of the deal, but I don't believe it will be, no. I wouldn't really write anything yet as I don't know details and wouldn't want to speculate....
The unique workwear of SEH Kelly
January 30th 2019Here's an interesting one. I passionately believe SEH Kelly should be covered and included in the pages of Permanent Style, even though I wouldn't wear a lot of their pieces. Why? Because in every aspect apart from style, they're perfect. Paul (belo...
The unique workwear of SEH Kelly
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Hi, Thomas. Did you get either one of them in the end? If so I'd love to hear your thoughts....
How to wear a horsehide jacket: Armoury x Real Mc...
January 11th 2019I’ve never had a horsehide jacket before. I did have an old, vintage one rom RRL a few years ago, but it was so old and soft that it felt nothing like this, like new horsehide. To be honest, I’d been rather put off by the styling of hors...
How to wear a horsehide jacket: Armoury x Real Mc...
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I haven't, no Pat, but not because it wouldn't work, just because I didn't think of it. I will now!...
The appeal of workwear, and my favourite pieces
November 12th 2018Although tailoring is my primary passion, I’ve always worn clothing that these days would be grouped under the term ‘workwear’ on the weekend. Good denim, obviously, but also sweatshirts, waxed boots and canvas trousers. Some of th...
The appeal of workwear, and my favourite pieces
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that's a great insight - thank you!...
No Man Walks Alone A/W: Frank Leder, Monitaly, So...
October 29th 2018It’s been over a year since I last had the chance to browse the stock at No Man Walks Alone and write one of these pieces, for which I blame a lack of travel to New York. It is possible to select a few favourites online, of course, particularl...
No Man Walks Alone A/W: Frank Leder, Monitaly, So...
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'No man walks alone' - possibly not the best brand name during the current Covid 19 outbreak. We are all walking alone now! They will need to rebrand....
Our Autumn/Winter Top 10, 2018
October 10th 2018A reader commented on the last instalment of this list that it shaped his whole season’s shopping. No pressure then. Many of the ranges will feature in other coverage later in the year – particularly the ones I’ve alr...
Dunhill leather and knitwear: Taste, style and fa...
September 28th 2018I’ve always had a particular fondness for Dunhill, ever since I visited the leather workshops in Walthamstow years ago for my book ‘Best of British’. They’ve also made several of my most lovely things, such as my vintage box,...
Dunhill leather and knitwear: Taste, style and fa...
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Yes George, some do offer bespoke or MTM bombers. Sartoria Melina for example in Naples - that's pretty much all they do https://www.permanentstyle.com/brand/melina...
Sapayol bespoke leather jacket: Review
September 12th 2018Sapayol is an online leather-jacket company, offering made-to-measure pieces manufactured in Turkey. Like many start-ups, it was founded by a young guy who thought there was a hole in the market - but had no prior experience in the industry. Here it...
Sapayol bespoke leather jacket: Review
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All credit to this guy - the unfortunate thing about this type of garment is that they are at their best when they are well worn and battered. You have remarked on this several times in other posts. I can't say that I'm ...
Where and why I shop: Wei Koh, The Rake
July 30th 2018Next year I will publish a travel guide to the best men's stores around the world, with Thames & Hudson. Alongside the city chapters there will be interviews with well-travelled people in the menswear industry, highlighting their tips and in...
Where and why I shop: Wei Koh, The Rake
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Tatton Baird is a fantastic hat shop and we're very lucky to have them in my home state of Utah. What isn't widely known however is that their master hatter was trained by a gentleman named James Whittington who ran his ...
Popular at the pop-up: Hollywood tops, linen shir...
July 25th 2018Given the heat at the moment in London, it shouldn’t be surprising that linen is the most attractive thing in the pop-up up shop, which has been going wonderfully so far. Edward Sexton’s Hollywood-top trousers (above) have been particula...
Popular at the pop-up: Hollywood tops, linen shir...
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For suits really, or trousers. I wouldn't wear any of the high-twists like this (fresco, crispaire, fox air etc) as separate jackets...
Travel jacket, knitwear and serge trousers
May 4th 2018Last Friday was annoyingly cold, and damp. Combinations of subdued, rich colours always give me the most pleasure - but it felt particularly appropriate on a day like this. The textures of the three pieces also went well together: the fuzzy surfac...
Travel jacket, knitwear and serge trousers
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I still own it and do sometimes wear it, but not as much as I thought I would. The reason is mostly style: I find I prefer a long coat or a short blouson most of the time...