Hand-dyed Mandarin jacket from Prologue

August 16th 2019

In the past five years, it feels like everyone has started doing some kind of shirt-jacket. It was a natural extension of the soft tailoring trend, perhaps, and it certainly gained traction when shirtmakers realised they could offer this too - a we...

Hand-dyed Mandarin jacket from Prologue

In the past five years, it feels like everyone has started doing some kind of shirt-jacket.  It was a natural extension of the soft tailoring trend, perhaps, and it certainly gained traction when shirtmakers realised t...

Casual jacketsAugust 16th 2019

Editing Instagram: Dressing for different walks of ...

August 7th 2019

Great as Instagram is, a definite flaw is its lack of an effective archive. There’s no way to search old images, so unless you save an image yourself, you can't find old pieces or browse effectively. Just as important a frustration - for me -...

Editing Instagram: Dressing for different walks of ...

Great as Instagram is, a definite flaw is its lack of an effective archive. There’s no way to search old images, so unless you save an image yourself, you can't find old pieces or browse effectively.  Just as importa...

Black tie - Casual jacketsAugust 7th 2019

Sartoria Melina nubuck bomber jacket

June 21st 2019

I liked the made-to-measure jacket I got from Sartoria Melina in 2017 so much, that last year I commissioned something new. This is it: their bomber-jacket style, in a tan colour of their signature nubuck leather. Having worn it for a few months (th...

Sartoria Melina nubuck bomber jacket

I liked the made-to-measure jacket I got from Sartoria Melina in 2017 so much, that last year I commissioned something new. This is it: their bomber-jacket style, in a tan colour of their signature nubuck leather. Havin...

Casual jacketsJune 21st 2019

A Pitti diary: The experience, the brands, the parties

June 19th 2019

Pitti is a long trade show: four full days, when most are usually three. As a result, by Friday everyone is exhausted, with selling, talking, and late dinners. Although it does depend on why you’re there. Most people fall into one of three gro...

A Pitti diary: The experience, the brands, the parties

Pitti is a long trade show: four full days, when most are usually three. As a result, by Friday everyone is exhausted, with selling, talking, and late dinners. Although it does depend on why you’re there. Most people ...

Bags - Casual jacketsJune 19th 2019

Our Spring/Summer Top 10, 2019

April 24th 2019

Last week the weather in London turned from 12 degrees to 22 in a couple of days. It seems that what passes for the English Spring is finally here. Of course, with most shops and brands Spring/Summer collections arrived in February, and went on sale...

Our Spring/Summer Top 10, 2019

Last week the weather in London turned from 12 degrees to 22 in a couple of days. It seems that what passes for the English Spring is finally here. Of course, with most shops and brands Spring/Summer collections arrived...

Bags - Casual jacketsApril 24th 2019

Introducing: The reversible Valstarino

April 12th 2019

The Valstarino - Valstar’s button-up suede blouson - has been very popular among fans of classic menswear in recent years. Although that shouldn’t be generally surprising given its quality and heritage, I do think it’s become parti...

Introducing: The reversible Valstarino

The Valstarino - Valstar’s button-up suede blouson - has been very popular among fans of classic menswear in recent years. Although that shouldn’t be generally surprising given its quality and heritage, I do think i...

Casual jacketsApril 12th 2019

Saman Amel, Licia Luchini, Billy Tannery: Things th...

April 5th 2019

This is a post rounding up three recent made-to-measure commissions that for different reasons, didn’t quite work out. As ever with the reviews and commentary, all three brands are aware of the issues, and we have already talked about what can...

Saman Amel, Licia Luchini, Billy Tannery: Things th...

This is a post rounding up three recent made-to-measure commissions that for different reasons, didn’t quite work out. As ever with the reviews and commentary, all three brands are aware of the issues, and we have alr...

Casual jackets - KnitwearApril 5th 2019

Seeing the trees for the wood: Connolly and Yard-O-...

March 15th 2019

A reader recently asked whether there was anything I particularly liked on The Rake’s online shop , given how much they’ve added in the past year. I feel I know why he’s asking. The Rake has added so much product recently that it&r...

Seeing the trees for the wood: Connolly and Yard-O-...

A reader recently asked whether there was anything I particularly liked on The Rake’s online shop , given how much they’ve added in the past year. I feel I know why he’s asking. The Rake has added so much product ...

Casual jackets - Glasses and jewelleryMarch 15th 2019

The unique workwear of SEH Kelly

January 30th 2019

Here's an interesting one. I passionately believe SEH Kelly should be covered and included in the pages of Permanent Style, even though I wouldn't wear a lot of their pieces. Why? Because in every aspect apart from style, they're perfect. Paul (belo...

The unique workwear of SEH Kelly

Here's an interesting one. I passionately believe SEH Kelly should be covered and included in the pages of Permanent Style, even though I wouldn't wear a lot of their pieces. Why? Because in every aspect apart from styl...

Casual jacketsJanuary 30th 2019

How to wear a horsehide jacket: Armoury x Real McCo...

January 11th 2019

I’ve never had a horsehide jacket before. I did have an old, vintage one rom RRL a few years ago, but it was so old and soft that it felt nothing like this, like new horsehide. To be honest, I’d been rather put off by the styling of hors...

How to wear a horsehide jacket: Armoury x Real McCo...

I’ve never had a horsehide jacket before. I did have an old, vintage one rom RRL a few years ago, but it was so old and soft that it felt nothing like this, like new horsehide. To be honest, I’d been rather put off ...

Casual jacketsJanuary 11th 2019

The appeal of workwear, and my favourite pieces

November 12th 2018

Although tailoring is my primary passion, I’ve always worn clothing that these days would be grouped under the term ‘workwear’ on the weekend. Good denim, obviously, but also sweatshirts, waxed boots and canvas trousers. Some of th...

The appeal of workwear, and my favourite pieces

Although tailoring is my primary passion, I’ve always worn clothing that these days would be grouped under the term ‘workwear’ on the weekend. Good denim, obviously, but also sweatshirts, waxed boots and canvas tr...

Bags - Casual jacketsNovember 12th 2018

No Man Walks Alone A/W: Frank Leder, Monitaly, Soul...

October 29th 2018

It’s been over a year since I last had the chance to browse the stock at No Man Walks Alone and write one of these pieces, for which I blame a lack of travel to New York. It is possible to select a few favourites online, of course, particularl...

No Man Walks Alone A/W: Frank Leder, Monitaly, Soul...

It’s been over a year since I last had the chance to browse the stock at No Man Walks Alone and write one of these pieces, for which I blame a lack of travel to New York. It is possible to select a few favourites onli...

Casual jackets - CoatsOctober 29th 2018

Our Autumn/Winter Top 10, 2018

October 10th 2018

  A reader commented on the last instalment of this list that it shaped his whole season’s shopping. No pressure then. Many of the ranges will feature in other coverage later in the year – particularly the ones I’ve alr...

Our Autumn/Winter Top 10, 2018

  A reader commented on the last instalment of this list that it shaped his whole season’s shopping. No pressure then. Many of the ranges will feature in other coverage later in the year – particularly the o...

Casual jackets - HatsOctober 10th 2018

Dunhill leather and knitwear: Taste, style and fashion

September 28th 2018

I’ve always had a particular fondness for Dunhill, ever since I visited the leather workshops in Walthamstow years ago for my book ‘Best of British’. They’ve also made several of my most lovely things, such as my vintage box,...

Dunhill leather and knitwear: Taste, style and fashion

I’ve always had a particular fondness for Dunhill, ever since I visited the leather workshops in Walthamstow years ago for my book ‘Best of British’. They’ve also made several of my most lovely things, such as m...

Casual jackets - KnitwearSeptember 28th 2018

Sapayol bespoke leather jacket: Review

September 12th 2018

Sapayol is an online leather-jacket company, offering made-to-measure pieces manufactured in Turkey. Like many start-ups, it was founded by a young guy who thought there was a hole in the market - but had no prior experience in the industry. Here it...

Sapayol bespoke leather jacket: Review

Sapayol is an online leather-jacket company, offering made-to-measure pieces manufactured in Turkey. Like many start-ups, it was founded by a young guy who thought there was a hole in the market - but had no prior exper...

Casual jacketsSeptember 12th 2018

Where and why I shop: Wei Koh, The Rake

July 30th 2018

Next year I will publish a travel guide to the best men's stores around the world, with Thames & Hudson. Alongside the city chapters there will be interviews with well-travelled people in the menswear industry, highlighting their tips and in...

Where and why I shop: Wei Koh, The Rake

Next year I will publish a travel guide to the best men's stores around the world, with Thames & Hudson. Alongside the city chapters there will be interviews with well-travelled people in the menswear industry, high...

Casual jackets - DenimJuly 30th 2018

Popular at the pop-up: Hollywood tops, linen shirts...

July 25th 2018

Given the heat at the moment in London, it shouldn’t be surprising that linen is the most attractive thing in the pop-up up shop, which has been going wonderfully so far. Edward Sexton’s Hollywood-top trousers (above) have been particula...

Popular at the pop-up: Hollywood tops, linen shirts...

Given the heat at the moment in London, it shouldn’t be surprising that linen is the most attractive thing in the pop-up up shop, which has been going wonderfully so far. Edward Sexton’s Hollywood-top trousers (abo...

Casual jackets - ClothJuly 25th 2018

Travel jacket, knitwear and serge trousers

May 4th 2018

Last Friday was annoyingly cold, and damp. Combinations of subdued, rich colours always give me the most pleasure - but it felt particularly appropriate on a day like this. The textures of the three pieces also went well together: the fuzzy surfac...

Travel jacket, knitwear and serge trousers

Last Friday was annoyingly cold, and damp.   Combinations of subdued, rich colours always give me the most pleasure - but it felt particularly appropriate on a day like this. The textures of the three pieces also went ...

Casual jackets - KnitwearMay 4th 2018

Our Spring/Summer Top 10, 2018

May 2nd 2018

Last week a friend in the industry asked me what aspect of writing Permanent Style I like the most. It is always, easily, discovering a new tailor, cloth or product that is different and inspiring. That journey from discovering something new, to see...

Our Spring/Summer Top 10, 2018

Last week a friend in the industry asked me what aspect of writing Permanent Style I like the most. It is always, easily, discovering a new tailor, cloth or product that is different and inspiring. That journey from dis...

Bags - Casual jacketsMay 2nd 2018

Sartoria Melina – first London trunkshow, and...

April 24th 2018

After a long wait, Neapolitan bespoke leather experts Sartoria Melina are finally coming to London - on May 16th and 17th. They will be at Mark's Club, and as with Sartoria Ciardi last month, we will hold a small event for them on the Wednesday nig...

Sartoria Melina – first London trunkshow, and...

After a long wait, Neapolitan bespoke leather experts Sartoria Melina are finally coming to London - on May 16th and 17th.  They will be at Mark's Club, and as with Sartoria Ciardi last month, we will hold a small even...

Casual jacketsApril 24th 2018

How to look after suede jackets

March 7th 2018

This is the second in our series of videos looking at practical aspects of menswear. The first, available here, explained the basics of good shoe care, with Edward Green on London's Jermyn Street. In this second instalment we turn our attention t...

How to look after suede jackets

  This is the second in our series of videos looking at practical aspects of menswear. The first, available here, explained the basics of good shoe care, with Edward Green on London's Jermyn Street.  In this second i...

Casual jacketsMarch 7th 2018

Five paradigms of casual clothing: Which do you wear?

February 28th 2018

Although casual clothing is far more susceptible to fashions than tailored clothing, it is possible to organize it into certain groups, or paradigms. These groups, such as preppy clothing or workwear, often have their roots in particular parts of th...

Five paradigms of casual clothing: Which do you wear?

Although casual clothing is far more susceptible to fashions than tailored clothing, it is possible to organize it into certain groups, or paradigms. These groups, such as preppy clothing or workwear, often have their r...

Casual jackets - DenimFebruary 28th 2018

Brand round-up: Lefren, Castore, Ashmei, Jago

February 5th 2018

This is the latest in a series of posts where I gather together new brands or products I've tried (sometimes outside the normal bounds of sartorial menswear) and review them. They are all based on personal experience, and I try to focus on things th...

Brand round-up: Lefren, Castore, Ashmei, Jago

This is the latest in a series of posts where I gather together new brands or products I've tried (sometimes outside the normal bounds of sartorial menswear) and review them. They are all based on personal experience, ...

Bags - Casual jacketsFebruary 5th 2018

Reflections on bespoke: Stoffa, Richard James, Camp...

January 1st 2018

One thing readers asked for in our 'We are 10' post was more reflections on bespoke pieces. When covering bespoke, I tend to write both an initial piece giving the background and approach of the maker, and then a fuller review when the piece is read...

Reflections on bespoke: Stoffa, Richard James, Camp...

One thing readers asked for in our 'We are 10' post was more reflections on bespoke pieces. When covering bespoke, I tend to write both an initial piece giving the background and approach of the maker, and then a fuller...

Casual jackets - JacketsJanuary 1st 2018

A casual capsule: The Valstarino jacket three ways

December 21st 2017

The blouson in general, but particularly in brown and especially in brown suede, has to be one of the most versatile pieces in a man's wardrobe. The shape is short and neat enough to work well with smarter clothing; suede suggests a more dressy look...

A casual capsule: The Valstarino jacket three ways

The blouson in general, but particularly in brown and especially in brown suede, has to be one of the most versatile pieces in a man's wardrobe. The shape is short and neat enough to work well with smarter clothing; su...

Casual jackets - DenimDecember 21st 2017