A postcard from Harris

November 11th 2011

Up in Harris, or rather Lewis, this week at Breanish Tweed. More next week. Photo: Andy Barnham

A postcard from Harris

Match in comments:
Great Blog, somewhat relieved to have found you, plenty of posts to catch up on! Keep up the good work!...

Factory visitsNovember 11th 2011

Brooks saddles: Two different sides of construction

August 29th 2011

Last week saw a visit to the Brooks saddle factory in Smethwick, just outside Birmingham. A full report will appear in the end-of-year issue of The Rake, but in the meantime I thought I would take the opportunity to try posting a couple of videos fil...

Brooks saddles: Two different sides of construction

Last week saw a visit to the Brooks saddle factory in Smethwick, just outside Birmingham. A full report will appear in the end-of-year issue of The Rake, but in the meantime I thought I would take the opportunity to try ...

Factory visitsAugust 29th 2011

Naples, Kiton: shoes

August 5th 2011

In the UK, good shoes split into two very clean categories: benchmade and bespoke. With the former, workers use a series of hulking Victorian machines to make the shoes. Each applies force in a different way, whether stretching the upper over the las...

Naples, Kiton: shoes

Match in comments:
That's very kind Tim, thanks. I'm really pleased you get value from it Simon...

Factory visits - ShoesAugust 5th 2011

Naples, Kiton: shirts

July 29th 2011

I mentioned in my previous post on the Kiton factory outside Naples that the shirt manufacturing impressed me post. In fact, it wasn’t so much the manufacturing operation as the handwork that resulted – something you can see on any Kiton ...

Naples, Kiton: shirts

Match in comments:
Just plastic ones I have from other shirts - they're thicker than the Kiton ones though, I remember those from back when I used to have shirts made there. They were pretty flimsy. I used to use silver or mother of pearl ...

Factory visits - ShirtsJuly 29th 2011

Naples, Kiton: suits

July 22nd 2011

My most extensive visit while in Naples this week was around Kiton’s factory, which is just outside the city. It is a big, well-aired facility that serves a frankly cracking lunch. I’ve never had mozzarella like it. All of the hundreds of...

Naples, Kiton: suits

Match in comments:
No, I'd strongly disagree with that. Huntsman and all proper Savile Row tailors still have more handwork and attention to detail than Kiton, as well as bespoke cutting and fitting....

Factory visits - SuitsJuly 22nd 2011

Dent’s gloves archive

June 24th 2011

Rummaging through the image archive this week, I stumbled across these pictures from my trip to the Dent’s gloves factory earlier in the year. They are from the Dent’s archive, and show five pairs of gloves – two for women and three...

Dent’s gloves archive

Match in comments:
Thanks for the pictures - very interesting indeed!...

Factory visits - Hanks and scarvesJune 24th 2011

Factory visit: Bill Amberg

April 6th 2011

Bill Amberg has recently moved to lovely new premises in Queen’s Park, north London. The landlord that owns most of the street apparently refuses to turn it into flats, renting the lot out to small businesses instead. This means that you wander...

Factory visit: Bill Amberg

Match in comments:
Interesting, thanks Peter. I was paraphrasing Bill there but I don't know if there's any debate on that point....

Bags - Factory visitsApril 6th 2011

Factory visit: Tanner Krolle

March 21st 2011

Of course, this isn’t exactly Tanner Krolle‘s factory. The original TK operation was on Mildmay Avenue in Islington, but was sold to Dunhill in the nineties and then knocked down. Dunhill moved its operations to Walthamstow (see previ...

Factory visit: Tanner Krolle

Match in comments:
hello i worked at t.c. 1966-1969 i was a cutter employed by mr. krolle this was at whitfield place near warren st. station why no history of here...

Bags - Factory visitsMarch 21st 2011

Brooks benchmade saddles

February 16th 2011

Brooks leather saddles are next in our cycling series. Unsurprisingly, the construction has much in common with benchmade shoes. Old, iron machines, worked by hand and crucial details finished by hand at every point. The leather saddle is pressed by ...

Brooks benchmade saddles

Match in comments:
I have Brooks B.17 with copper rivets on my Randonneur bicycle. Nothing, and I mean nothing, is more comfortable after 200km of cycling. It also has achieved a nice patina after many years of service. Use mudguards and a...

Factory visitsFebruary 16th 2011

Factory visit: Dent’s gloves

January 31st 2011

I finally made it down to Dent’s heritage gloves factory in Warminster, and learnt a lot more about the traditional process behind English-made gloves. There were some interesting parallels with several other crafts, including tailoring, shoema...

Factory visit: Dent’s gloves

Match in comments:
I looked at Lavabre Cadet but the colors are pretty limited, mostly black....

Factory visits - Hanks and scarvesJanuary 31st 2011

Dent’s: How British gloves are made

November 1st 2010

There’s an odd little bit of Selfridge’s between Ralph Lauren and the Kurt Geiger shoe emporium. It contains general accessories – hats, scarves and gloves – and stands out because it is the one part of the menswear floor no...

Dent’s: How British gloves are made

Match in comments:
Thank you for your quick response and opinion....

Factory visits - Hanks and scarvesNovember 1st 2010

Factory visit: Alfred Dunhill

April 14th 2010

There’s nothing like a factory you can get to on the Tube. So much less train time involved. The Alfred Dunhill leather factory and pipe workshop are up in Walthamstow; though it could be in Northampton for all the difference it makes to the at...

Factory visit: Alfred Dunhill

There’s nothing like a factory you can get to on the Tube. So much less train time involved. The Alfred Dunhill leather factory and pipe workshop are up in Walthamstow; though it could be in Northampton for all the dif...

Bags - Factory visitsApril 14th 2010

Hand sewing at Edward Green

February 12th 2010

I was fortunate enough to be able to tour the Edward Green factory in Northampton last week. A new building (as they’ve moved around a few times since leaving what is now the John Lobb factory in the centre of town) it nonetheless has a lot of ...

Hand sewing at Edward Green

Match in comments:
I can't imagine that those shoes are hand made. Good post. Forzest| Generic Levitra...

Factory visits - ShoesFebruary 12th 2010

Shirt facts upon request

January 4th 2010

Due to popular demand (well, three people) here are some more facts about how the Turnbull & Asser shirts are made up in Gloucester. I know how much you love those little details. – As with a suit, the sleevehead of the shirt is sl...

Shirt facts upon request

Match in comments:
I usually don't have them, as I don't use them functionally (ie sometimes wanting them done up, sometimes not) and they are a pain to do up every time otherwise...

Factory visits - ShirtsJanuary 4th 2010

Factory visit: Turnbull & Asser shirts

December 21st 2009

There are so many facts, figures and geeky points about the construction of Turnbull & Asser shirts that I could be writing about them for days. And you’d be reading for hours. I’ll try to keep the description of my visit brief a...

Factory visit: Turnbull & Asser shirts

Match in comments:
I've just seen your reply, 13 years later! Yes, good points. 13 years, good grief....

Factory visits - ShirtsDecember 21st 2009