Category: Shirts and ties

Now and again, a bespoke commission is almost seamless. At every fitting, you like the look of the jacket and almost nothing seems to be needed on the fit. Just as importantly, the tailor delivers what they say they wil...

  There has been a lot of debate in recent years as to what should be called a Superfine cloth for suiting. As wools got finer and finer, and more and more expensive, it looked increasingly silly to focus on a single at...

Wearing a white tie with a blue shirt is something that makes perfect sense in Naples. To a certain extent, wearing sugary-pink jackets and lapis-blue tailoring makes sense too. It's just sunny so much of the time, even...

It's that time of year, and new things are all arriving at once. Today it's a new, lighter shade of the Everyday Denim. Everyday Denim shirting went down really well with readers, both as fabric and finished shirts, and...

  A reader commented on the last instalment of this list that it shaped his whole season’s shopping. No pressure then. Many of the ranges will feature in other coverage later in the year – particularly the o...

  As work environments become increasingly casual, men are more in need of less formal shirts – usually worn without a tie, often with flannels or chinos. It’s fairly easy to see which styles of shirt are more c...

I don’t wear pyjamas to sleep in. I’ve always found them too constricting, and prefer underwear. However, ever since I had children (mine are now 10 and 7) I’ve put on pyjamas when I get up. With kids you’re mor...

Readers have asked for a while for this post: something recommending a core, versatile shirt collection. The idea of suggesting such ‘capsule’ collections is that they help a newcomer build a wardrobe, prioritising t...

I don't tend to wear brightly coloured ties. Too often they’re brash and loud, where a dark simple tie would be more tasteful. The only time I’ve regularly worn them is in unusual colours like lime green, rather th...

Back in April I wrote my first post on shirtmaker 100 Hands, having visited their factory in Amritsar, India. I argued that the important point to address first was that making in India involves no necessary compromise ...

Lovely as our Friday Polos are, they're not really built for Summer. The classic Friday Polo uses a luxurious piqué cotton from Caccioppoli which, while noticeably nicer than other polo cottons, is relatively thick and...

Next year I will publish a travel guide to the best men's stores around the world, with Thames & Hudson. Alongside the city chapters there will be interviews with well-travelled people in the menswear industry, high...

Given the heat at the moment in London, it shouldn’t be surprising that linen is the most attractive thing in the pop-up up shop, which has been going wonderfully so far. Edward Sexton’s Hollywood-top trousers (abo...

*Update October 2018: This shirt unfortunately shrunk considerably after two washes, and the sleeves are now too short to wear, rather supporting my assessment of the selection of materials at Luxire* Luxire is an India...

I've always liked indigo in tailoring, and find navy a good partner for it. The deep indigo of this linen shirt from D'Avino, for example, is significantly quietened by the navy blazer over the top, and makes that top h...

It was really lovely being back in Hong Kong last week, after a few years away. The talk we Lorenzo Cifonelli and I did at Attire House worked well - more a conversation than an interview, with Lorenzo asking me questio...

  [This is part of a series that aims to produce a comprehensive guide to shirt fabrics, from the simplest points to the most technical. So far we have introduced the basics of selecting shirt fabric, and gone into dept...

I’ve always found that an oxford shirt fills a very specific gap in my wardrobe. Smart enough for almost any sports jacket - from cashmere to corduroy - it is also the perfect partner for jeans. It might bridge formal...

My shirt collars over the years have generally been one of two styles: spread or button-down. Both can work with or without a tie (and have been tweaked consistently to make that easier) but I generally prefer the sprea...

100 Hands makes perhaps the finest shirts in the world. They certainly have as much handwork as any shirt I've seen, executed with greater fineness and consistency. But the most significant thing for many people will be...

  In this next article in our series on shirtings, we describe and define the different types of fabric (oxford, chambray, denim) with both text descriptions and illustrations. They are set out in groups by the part o...

I think it’s telling that the thing that makes me happiest about this outfit is the oatmeal-linen shirt, a piece made bespoke by D’Avino. I’ve been doing this for a while - trying to combine pieces of classic mens...

This is the first in an occasional series on shirtings, following a similar model to our Guide to Cloth on tailoring fabrics. As with that, we start with the basics here and will then burrow ever deeper in the coming mo...

Below you can find the full video of our Shirtmakers Symposium in Florence. It's a little basic, but thankfully the sound worked well and it's audible throughout. Silvio Albini makes a lovely introduction at the start,...

[The votes and nominations for the Permanent Style awards closed today, by the way. Thank you for all your comments and emails. The winners will be announced next week.] At the Shirtmakers Symposium in Florence last wee...