Blue Bespoke shoes from Stefano Bemer: Value bespoke

July 13th 2018

So, my friend Tommaso Capozzoli has this pair of shoes. They’re bespoke, by Stefano Bemer, and made in their replica Russian-reindeer leather. They seem to go with everything he wears, from grey flannel to cream linen, and have real character ...

Blue Bespoke shoes from Stefano Bemer: Value bespoke

So, my friend Tommaso Capozzoli has this pair of shoes. They’re bespoke, by Stefano Bemer, and made in their replica Russian-reindeer leather. They seem to go with everything he wears, from grey flannel to cream linen...

Oxford - ShoesJuly 13th 2018

Richard Anderson tuxedo: Style breakdown

May 25th 2018

This is the first in a series of articles looking back at suits I have had made by the world’s major tailors, and examining their style through a consistent set of parameters and images. For background and context, see the introduction here . H...

Richard Anderson tuxedo: Style breakdown

This is the first in a series of articles looking back at suits I have had made by the world’s major tailors, and examining their style through a consistent set of parameters and images. For background and context, see...

Black tie - OxfordMay 25th 2018

Saint Crispin’s shoes: Reflections two years ...

March 23rd 2018

I now have three pairs of Saint Crispin’s shoes: the alligator/calf wing-tips pictured above; brown-suede chukka boots; and most recently a pair of dark-brown suede cap-toes. I have ordered steadily and regularly, each time gaining in confiden...

Saint Crispin’s shoes: Reflections two years ...

I now have three pairs of Saint Crispin’s shoes: the alligator/calf wing-tips pictured above; brown-suede chukka boots; and most recently a pair of dark-brown suede cap-toes. I have ordered steadily and regularly, eac...

Oxford - ShoesMarch 23rd 2018

Stivaleria Savoia bespoke shoes: Review

November 13th 2017

When I cover an artisan where I’m genuinely interested in the product - its quality, design and often heritage or story, I have something made. I then tend to cover the maker in one, initial post that explains their product and background; and...

Stivaleria Savoia bespoke shoes: Review

When I cover an artisan where I’m genuinely interested in the product - its quality, design and often heritage or story, I have something made. I then tend to cover the maker in one, initial post that explains their ...

Oxford - ShoesNovember 13th 2017

Summer colours: Tobacco and tan

May 12th 2017

Shades of tobacco and tan are one of the loveliest things to wear in the Summer. As the weather warms up, I've put together three outfits here - all somewhere in the 5 to 7 formality range - that illustrate this. They are displayed on my wonderf...

Summer colours: Tobacco and tan

  Shades of tobacco and tan are one of the loveliest things to wear in the Summer.  As the weather warms up, I've put together three outfits here - all somewhere in the 5 to 7 formality range - that illustrate this....

Casual jackets - Casual wearMay 12th 2017

My Corthays – colours, issues and pleasures

May 1st 2017

I've always had a problem with Corthay shoes. Not so much the style - while many of the designs and colours are too brash for me, I've consistently found interesting light and dark browns to keep me interested. No, the big issue has been the last ...

My Corthays – colours, issues and pleasures

I've always had a problem with Corthay shoes.  Not so much the style - while many of the designs and colours are too brash for me, I've consistently found interesting light and dark browns to keep me interested.  No...

Boot - DerbyMay 1st 2017

Cover story in Plaza Uomo

December 16th 2016

These things always seem to come in bunches. First Esquire named me in a top 10 and now Plaza Uomo have published their latest edition, with a profile of me as the cover story. Plaza is a Swedish fashion magazine, and Plaza Uomo has an English ver...

Cover story in Plaza Uomo

These things always seem to come in bunches.  First Esquire named me in a top 10 and now Plaza Uomo have published their latest edition, with a profile of me as the cover story.  Plaza is a Swedish fashion magazine,...

Accessories - HatsDecember 16th 2016

Video: Edward Green shoes being made in Northampton

October 11th 2016

Edward Green recently made this video showing step-by-step the stages of making a pair of shoes in the Northampton factory. I like the lack of pretentiousness to it - others would desaturate the imagery, use slow motion to linger over particular pa...

Video: Edward Green shoes being made in Northampton

Edward Green recently made this video showing step-by-step the stages of making a pair of shoes in the Northampton factory.  I like the lack of pretentiousness to it - others would desaturate the imagery, use slow moti...

Oxford - ShoesOctober 11th 2016

The best fit yet: Stefano Bemer tobacco-suede oxfords

July 15th 2016

These bespoke oxfords from Stefano Bemer are the best fitting shoes I have ever owned. The zenith of - from a fit point of view - everything that bespoke should be. But before I go into the product, I want to talk about the style. Because whatever ...

The best fit yet: Stefano Bemer tobacco-suede oxfords

These bespoke oxfords from Stefano Bemer are the best fitting shoes I have ever owned. The zenith of - from a fit point of view - everything that bespoke should be.  But before I go into the product, I want to talk abo...

Oxford - ShoesJuly 15th 2016

Saint Crispin’s shoes – Review

May 26th 2016

If you like the style and structure of Saint Crispin's shoes, they offer some of the best value available anywhere. Pictured here is my first pair, made a couple of months ago - a wingtip in brown, with an alligator adelaide section around the lace...

Saint Crispin’s shoes – Review

If you like the style and structure of Saint Crispin's shoes, they offer some of the best value available anywhere.  Pictured here is my first pair, made a couple of months ago - a wingtip in brown, with an alligator a...

Oxford - ShoesMay 26th 2016

Philippe Atienza, bespoke shoemaker, Paris

May 2nd 2016

When I visited shoemaker Philippe Atienza (above) in his new Parisian atelier, back in March, his furniture had just arrived. Some nice chairs, rugs, tables, and a lot of old machinery. He’d been in the space for three weeks, but it was fina...

Philippe Atienza, bespoke shoemaker, Paris

   When I visited shoemaker Philippe Atienza (above) in his new Parisian atelier, back in March, his furniture had just arrived. Some nice chairs, rugs, tables, and a lot of old machinery. He’d been in the space for ...

Boot - DerbyMay 2nd 2016

Foster & Son bespoke shoes: Review

April 27th 2016

A few weeks ago I received my final pair of Foster & Son bespoke shoes. The process has, unfortunately, been both good and bad. First, the good. The fitting I had with John Spencer – Foster’s lastmaker – was impr...

Foster & Son bespoke shoes: Review

   A few weeks ago I received my final pair of Foster & Son bespoke shoes. The process has, unfortunately, been both good and bad.  First, the good. The fitting I had with John Spencer – Foster’s lastmaker...

Oxford - ShoesApril 27th 2016

James Smith & Son umbrellas, London

April 22nd 2016

The following is an extract from my book Best of British: The Stories Behind Britain’s Iconic Brands , published by Prestel. Dedicated copies are available to buy here – James Smith & Sons Two or three times every day, ...

James Smith & Son umbrellas, London

   The following is an extract from my book Best of British: The Stories Behind Britain’s Iconic Brands , published by Prestel. Dedicated copies are available to buy here – James Smith & Sons Two or th...

Accessories - OxfordApril 22nd 2016

Your next sports jacket: Oatmeal cashmere from Elia...

April 13th 2016

This pale, oatmeal-coloured cashmere is my new favourite sports-jacket material. When men are picking colours for sports jackets, their second choice (after the obviousness of navy) is usually grey. Which can be great, in: a rougher, preppy herrin...

Your next sports jacket: Oatmeal cashmere from Elia...

   This pale, oatmeal-coloured cashmere is my new favourite sports-jacket material. When men are picking colours for sports jackets, their second choice (after the obviousness of navy) is usually grey. Which can be gre...

Jackets - OxfordApril 13th 2016

Book signing at the Opening of LeatherFoot, Toronto

April 11th 2016

When I fantasise about running my own shop, stocked with the greatest menswear money can buy, it normally involves having the finest tailor and the finest shoemaker on site, beavering away just for me. I discovered last week that Ideyi of the sho...

Book signing at the Opening of LeatherFoot, Toronto

   When I fantasise about running my own shop, stocked with the greatest menswear money can buy, it normally involves having the finest tailor and the finest shoemaker on site, beavering away just for me.  I discovere...

Oxford - ShoesApril 11th 2016

The Friday Polo – next batch available

March 2nd 2016

*Stock is now very limited. For the current position please check the Shop page* I’m pleased to say that the next batch of our Friday Polos – handmade in Naples and designed by us here in London – is now ready. Thank y...

The Friday Polo – next batch available

  *Stock is now very limited. For the current position please check the Shop page*     I’m pleased to say that the next batch of our Friday Polos – handmade in Naples and designed by us here in London – ...

Casual wear - OxfordMarch 2nd 2016

Salvatore Ambrosi trousers – review

February 29th 2016

I began the process of having trousers made by Salva (-tore Ambrosi) just over a year ago. Since then I’ve had two pairs made – in fresco and flannel – and while the quality of the product has been good, the process hasn&...

Salvatore Ambrosi trousers – review

   I began the process of having trousers made by Salva (-tore Ambrosi) just over a year ago. Since then I’ve had two pairs made – in fresco and flannel – and while the quality of the product has been goo...

Oxford - ShoesFebruary 29th 2016

Floris bespoke perfume

February 1st 2016

Floris, the storied London perfumers, recently invited me to try their fragrance customisation service. And I have to say it was one of the most pleasurable bespoke experiences I’ve ever had, rivalled only by my first bespoke suit. I’v...

Floris bespoke perfume

   Floris, the storied London perfumers, recently invited me to try their fragrance customisation service. And I have to say it was one of the most pleasurable bespoke experiences I’ve ever had, rivalled only by my ...

Accessories - OxfordFebruary 1st 2016

Nineteen of our squares left… (and the virtue...

December 28th 2015

There are just 19 of our cashmere squares left – the beautiful collaboration we started a few weeks ago with Begg & Co. The colours have sold pretty evenly, with 9 navy and 10 ‘natural’ (pictured above) remain...

Nineteen of our squares left… (and the virtue...

   There are just 19 of our cashmere squares left – the beautiful collaboration we started a few weeks ago with Begg & Co. The colours have sold pretty evenly, with 9 navy and 10 ‘natural’ (pictur...

Oxford - ShoesDecember 28th 2015

The benefits of building a shoe wardrobe – ne...

November 6th 2015

The new Edward Green website launched last week, and it’s very impressive. Unusually for the fashion industry, the site is both attractive and highly functional. The photography and colour palette are lovely, but it also has useful thing...

The benefits of building a shoe wardrobe – ne...

   The new Edward Green website launched last week, and it’s very impressive. Unusually for the fashion industry, the site is both attractive and highly functional. The photography and colour palette are lovely,...

Derby - OxfordNovember 6th 2015

Wearing a jacket and jeans

October 12th 2015

If there is one question men ask more than any other, it is how to wear a jacket with jeans. Behind this usually lies a desire to dress up an outfit without appearing too up-tight. Friends in the creative or digital industries often have this prob...

Wearing a jacket and jeans

   If there is one question men ask more than any other, it is how to wear a jacket with jeans. Behind this usually lies a desire to dress up an outfit without appearing too up-tight. Friends in the creative or digital...

Casual jackets - Casual wearOctober 12th 2015

My go-to pieces: overcoats, navy cashmere, and brow...

August 14th 2015

As readers never fail to point out, I have had a lot of bespoke items made over the past 10 years. But while I love pretty much all of them, some get a lot more use than others. These pieces become staples – the things I turn to time and...

My go-to pieces: overcoats, navy cashmere, and brow...

   As readers never fail to point out, I have had a lot of bespoke items made over the past 10 years. But while I love pretty much all of them, some get a lot more use than others. These pieces become staples – t...

Derby - OxfordAugust 14th 2015

Do I need black shoes (and if so, which?) – R...

August 6th 2015

As with many reader questions, this one evolved over several email messages back and forth. I know Joel won’t mind if I restructure that exchange into a conversation, in order to put the inquiries in the right order. And add a little narrati...

Do I need black shoes (and if so, which?) – R...

   As with many reader questions, this one evolved over several email messages back and forth. I know Joel won’t mind if I restructure that exchange into a conversation, in order to put the inquiries in the right ord...

Derby - How toAugust 6th 2015

Wearing colour: Tobacco jacket and cream trousers

July 20th 2015

At the BTBA party last month I wanted to try wearing my tobacco-linen jacket separately. It is part of a suit of course, but it was commissioned from Sastreria Langa in Madrid with a ‘shirt’ sleeve and patch pockets to make it c...

Wearing colour: Tobacco jacket and cream trousers

  At the BTBA party last month I wanted to try wearing my tobacco-linen jacket separately. It is part of a suit of course, but it was commissioned from Sastreria Langa in Madrid with a ‘shirt’ sleeve and pat...

Jackets - OxfordJuly 20th 2015

Grey cashmere and brown flannel: Caraceni and Abbarchi

July 1st 2015

Last week’s explanation of how I put an outfit together seemed to be popular, so let’s try that again. This outfit is simpler than last week’s. There are fewer colours, there’s no tie to worry about, the handkerchief is pla...

Grey cashmere and brown flannel: Caraceni and Abbarchi

   Last week’s explanation of how I put an outfit together seemed to be popular, so let’s try that again. This outfit is simpler than last week’s. There are fewer colours, there’s no tie to worry about, the han...

Derby - OxfordJuly 1st 2015