Acme split-toe shoes: Review

June 15th 2022

Everybody loves a bargain. I think one reader referred to it as the ‘siren song’ of cheaper-but-quality clothing. The reference is often apt. Enthusiasts of anything expensive are drawn to the idea - like hypnotised Greek sailors - that...

Acme split-toe shoes: Review

Match in comments:
Amazing! Thanks for letting me know John. I always wish I was there for these chance meetings......

ShoesJune 15th 2022

Rain: Cap and cordovan, or felt and suede

May 9th 2022

This may be a little niche, but it’s something that often stresses me out in the morning, so hopefully it will be of some use to others. My plans for what to wear on a particular day usually don’t account for rain. I might be going int...

Rain: Cap and cordovan, or felt and suede

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Hey Jack, No, it's a rubber sole but a thinner one...

Coats - HatsMay 9th 2022

The Spring Top 10: Fun, paper and lavender

April 20th 2022

It’s that time of the year again. Brands have been receiving all the spring clothing they ordered last year, even though they weren’t quite sure whether it would arrive, or be swallowed by an unexpected lockdown. So rejoice, there are n...

The Spring Top 10: Fun, paper and lavender

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Regarding Trumpers. Apart from ordering a tub of Almond Shaving Cream which is utterly superb and highly concentrated in a very generous 200g tub... probably the best value of all the prestige London barbers, I asked for...

Casual clothing - CoatsApril 20th 2022

Le Vif: A vintage shop like a regular shop

April 11th 2022

Le Vif in Paris is one of the most curated vintage stores around. What do I mean by that? Well, it has a particular view on the clothes it offers - in terms of quality, style and origin. It sells Americana, normally American-made. There’s no...

Le Vif: A vintage shop like a regular shop

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Yes, like a lot of that 16th experiment, it's moving to a more standard part of town. No actual location yet though I don't think...

Knitwear - ShoesApril 11th 2022

The Alden modified last, and Anatomica sizing

April 1st 2022

Alden has this particular shape of shoe, on what is referred to as the ‘modified’ last. It’s unusual, almost orthopaedic in appearance, with a narrow waist that hugs the middle of the foot and rather bulging sides to fully accommo...

The Alden modified last, and Anatomica sizing

Match in comments:
I guess that depends a little on the feet as well Mathias. Looking at mine now beneath the desk, the joints are probably the widest point, though only just. Yes that's definitely the problem with those barefoot shoes! Th...

ShoesApril 1st 2022

Reader profile: Andy

March 25th 2022

This is Andy. A long-time reader and customer, Andy had led, shall we say, an interesting life. Currently a hydrographic surveyor, he has also been a pilot, a mountaineer, and dabbles as a model (fashion and life). He is passionate about clothing, ...

Reader profile: Andy

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Thanks Willie my man. Appreciate your comments mate, I'll have to give you a big hug as you are sitting only about 10 feet away from me in the offline room just now. Top hat and goggles - Its the way to go and of course,...

Coats - HatsMarch 25th 2022

Anatomica, Paris: The clothes and the history

March 23rd 2022

Anatomica is one of my favourite shops in Paris. It’s unique, with a range of menswear that’s often exclusive to them - whether under their brand or others’ - and always centred around quality. In fact it has such a reputation - of...

Anatomica, Paris: The clothes and the history

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The fit is a little short and quite big in the body. I like it, but it won't be for everyone. I can't remember the exact price I'm afraid, but it won't be cheap...

Casual clothing - Hanks and scarvesMarch 23rd 2022

A view on emerging Chinese shoemakers

March 16th 2022

Over the past two or three years, a group of mostly Chinese shoemakers has come to prominence for making high quality, usually hand-welted shoes at relatively cheap prices. I’ve experienced some of these, and talked to those in the industry ab...

A view on emerging Chinese shoemakers

Match in comments:
Hi David, There are very few in the US, but in the UK there are some. Not sure when all of them got into the business, but with most of them it would still have been fairly young, as it's an unusual trade to take up late...

ShoesMarch 16th 2022

Why buy ‘modern’ vintage?

February 25th 2022

Rag Parade in Sheffield sells quite a lot of ‘modern’ vintage clothing (let’s call it 1980 onwards, for the sake of argument) as well as more standard militaria and workwear from earlier decades. I was interested to know what the ...

Why buy ‘modern’ vintage?

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Hi Everybody, I wasn’t go to join this discussion but feel I may need to dip my toes in the water. Firstly some of the most durable and best made jackets Belstaff ever made actually came out in the 1990’s/early 2000�...

Coats - JacketsFebruary 25th 2022

Would you (could you) wear a cowboy boot?

February 16th 2022

A friend once told me that he gets a kick out of finding an unusual piece of menswear, and working out a way to wear it. Like a challenge: how can he make this esoteric bit of clothing wearable. I’ve never really taken that approach to clothe...

Would you (could you) wear a cowboy boot?

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It's something I should probably write a full post about. But in brief, absolutely you can protect designs, and people do. The IP right is usually a design, copyright or trade mark though, not a patent. And absolutely mo...

ShoesFebruary 16th 2022

A day out at Rag Parade, Sheffield

February 11th 2022

When you stare at a shop enough on Instagram - seeing new stock highlighted every day - it can seem bigger than it actually is. That was the case with Jojo’s General Store (or Rag Parade) in Sheffield, which myself, Alex and Lucas visited las...

A day out at Rag Parade, Sheffield

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It isn't, and I haven't really tried any others so can't give much advice. I would say, though, that while a fleece is attractive, it's really replacing casual outerwear which is such an amazing category for menswear. Mo...

Casual clothing - CoatsFebruary 11th 2022

Tonal dressing – with new Indulgent Shawl C...

January 21st 2022

Our Indulgent Shawl Cardigan doesn’t need much introduction. Indeed, since this new grey colour was released to the waiting list yesterday, half have already sold. Quite a list had built up. Thank you everyone for your patience, and for ridin...

Tonal dressing – with new Indulgent Shawl C...

Match in comments:
Amazing, thanks Paul. I'll add that to this year's post announcing the restock if that's OK...

Knitwear - ShoesJanuary 21st 2022

Reader profile: Mattia

January 17th 2022

I met Mattia during our recent pop-up shop on Savile Row. A Permanent Style reader, he is also a fashion student, which gives him an interesting perspective on classic menswear. I enjoyed talking to him, and his friends, about their studies and the...

Reader profile: Mattia

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I loved reading this and I love Mattia's style. As someone who doesn't earn a lot of money most of my reading here is pipe dream stuff. But me and mattia are on the same boat - there is a way to dress well for under 3k! ...

Denim - JacketsJanuary 17th 2022

Resoling sneakers and trainers: RforPeople and en...

January 3rd 2022

People did different things over lockdown. Talking to Tommaso Melani, owner of Stefano Bemer shoes , it turns out he started resoling trainers. Stefano Bemer has a talented in-house team of shoemakers. They’ve made me three pairs of beautiful...

Resoling sneakers and trainers: RforPeople and en...

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There isn't on leather trainers, only the discussion here on canvas ones...

ShoesJanuary 3rd 2022

Christmas gift list 2021: Shawls, soap and Swan S...

November 17th 2021

It’s that time of the year again. So, with both apologies and thanks to readers that bemoaned the lack of this list last year, these are just a few of my favourite things... In these lists we try to go beyond menswear into other beautiful, cra...

Christmas gift list 2021: Shawls, soap and Swan S...

Match in comments:
Hi Simon. This is very helpful indeed. Dry clean it will be. Thanks. Yash...

Casual clothing - HatsNovember 17th 2021

Crockett & Jones ‘Harvard’ loafe...

November 10th 2021

I’ve always recommended Crockett & Jones to readers over the years, as a solid, good-value English shoe. But I’ve only briefly owned a pair. I had some when I was in my twenties, but bought the wrong size - so sold them within a ...

Crockett & Jones ‘Harvard’ loafe...

Match in comments:
Thanks vor the quick and comprehensive awnser Simon! I want to keep the Loafer casual, since a Loafer of this quality (sadly?) is a rare sight at my university anyways. It‘s going to be worn with jeans, chinos and mayb...

ShoesNovember 10th 2021

Autumn/Winter Top 10: Wax, Ivy and secateurs

October 11th 2021

This year’s A/W Top 10 list includes a sprinkling of new names, but a lot of familiar ones too. I don’t think this is unexpected or unwelcome. The world of classic, crafted menswear is not large, primarily because men still don’t ...

Autumn/Winter Top 10: Wax, Ivy and secateurs

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Hello Paul. I don’t know how easy it is to physically see C&J in Geneva so here is a close up of their rough out suede leather in brown if that helps, as sometimes official website pictures are met that helpful. I ...

Casual clothing - DenimOctober 11th 2021

What would I buy from Massimo Dutti?

September 1st 2021

When is it worth buying the best possible quality, and when can you economise? This, of course, was part of the subject of my book The Finest Menswear in the World , which examined what constitutes ‘quality’ in various categories of clo...

What would I buy from Massimo Dutti?

Match in comments:
I see, thanks for advice!...

Denim - KnitwearSeptember 1st 2021

Are bespoke shoes worth it?

August 9th 2021

Every time I do a review of bespoke shoes, the question comes up as to whether they're worth the money. Whether bespoke shoes in general can really be worth it, given the little issues I often report. My short answer is that, in my experience , the...

Are bespoke shoes worth it?

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thank you for sharing...

ShoesAugust 9th 2021

Playing around with white bucks

August 4th 2021

During sunny weather in the past few weeks, I've been playing around with these old shoes from Lodger, the shoe shop that used to be on Clifford Street in London, and where I first started writing about menswear . The shoes were a recreation of a 1...

Playing around with white bucks

Match in comments:
I have two pair of white BUCS. One is Nunn Bush and is a Derby style. The second is by Churches. It is a wingtips style. I have a Sperry trainer in white canvas. I think I am well represented here. I like my white shoes ...

Shoes - StyleAugust 4th 2021

Carreducker remote-fitted bespoke boots: Review

August 2nd 2021

I think when craftsmen are doing remote fittings, they err on the safe side. That’s one consistency I can draw from my online bespoke over the past year. Whether it’s with WW Chan , Massura or Ferdinando Caraceni in tailoring, Carreduc...

Carreducker remote-fitted bespoke boots: Review

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I do, yes, they're lovely in the winter...

ShoesAugust 2nd 2021

Remote, manufactured bespoke boots from Carreducker 

June 11th 2021

I've known Deborah Carré and James Ducker (below)for many years, having first covered their workshops when they were at Cockpit Arts (those pictures of me and Luke!), then the opening of their service at Gieves & Hawkes , and more rec...

Remote, manufactured bespoke boots from Carreducker 

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Yes there is...

ShoesJune 11th 2021

Desert boots (and knitwear, and bespoke) at Anglo...

June 4th 2021

Somehow, Jake and Anglo-Italian manage to keep relatively under the radar here in the UK, despite being one of the few classic-menswear shops keeping that spirit relevant. Perhaps it’s because they don’t actively seek out mainstream cov...

Desert boots (and knitwear, and bespoke) at Anglo...

Match in comments:
Just taken delivery of a pair in snuff suede. Good fit on my narrow feet, and very comfortable if walking around the house is anything to go by. The stand out feature though is the lovely suede, which is so soft and supp...

Knitwear - ShoesJune 4th 2021

Viberg Service Boots: My choice of work boot

May 10th 2021

During the past Winter, I was vaguely looking to replace my longstanding work boots from Wolverine (above) . They’d done great service: on long country walks, camping in different parts of the country, and just going to the local park in rain...

Viberg Service Boots: My choice of work boot

Match in comments:
Suede stretches a little, but won't stretch in the toe box at all because of the internal structure in there. Personally I think the shoe should fit normal socks, though not really thick ones, as otherwise just dress soc...

ShoesMay 10th 2021

The (17) bespoke shoemakers I have known

March 10th 2021

  This article was originally written back in 2014. Back then I had tried seven bespoke shoemakers, and nothing in Japan. Seven years later, the number has more than doubled, and the spread is wider – also encompassing some semi-be...

The (17) bespoke shoemakers I have known

Match in comments:
Good to know Thanks again....

ShoesMarch 10th 2021