Sartoria Panico grey-flannel suit: Review

August 8th 2018

Apologies to those that had been waiting a while for coverage of this suit. It was finished in the Spring, but Japanese magazine Men’s Precious asked me to wait until it had been shot as part of a feature before p...

Sartoria Panico grey-flannel suit: Review

Apologies to those that had been waiting a while for coverage of this suit. It was finished in the Spring, but Japanese magazine Men’s Precious asked me to wait until it had been shot as part of a feature before p...

Suits - TailorsAugust 8th 2018

Anderson & Sheppard two-button jacket: Style B...

June 25th 2018

This is the third in our Finest Tailors series breaking down the styles of the world’s finest tailors. Following on from Richard Anderson and Henry Poole, we now turn to Anderson & Sheppard. Now, Anderson &...

Anderson & Sheppard two-button jacket: Style B...

This is the third in our Finest Tailors series breaking down the styles of the world’s finest tailors. Following on from Richard Anderson and Henry Poole, we now turn to Anderson & Sheppard. Now, Anderson &...

Jackets - TailorsJune 25th 2018

Henry Poole double-breasted suit: Style Breakdown

June 8th 2018

A nice thing about our Finest Tailors series is that, as we add more tailors to it, each becomes a reference for the next, making comparisons easier. This Henry Poole suit, then, makes an interesting comparison to the ...

Henry Poole double-breasted suit: Style Breakdown

A nice thing about our Finest Tailors series is that, as we add more tailors to it, each becomes a reference for the next, making comparisons easier. This Henry Poole suit, then, makes an interesting comparison to the ...

Suits - TailorsJune 8th 2018

Richard Anderson tuxedo: Style breakdown

May 25th 2018

This is the first in a series of articles looking back at suits I have had made by the world’s major tailors, and examining their style through a consistent set of parameters and images. For background and context,...

Richard Anderson tuxedo: Style breakdown

This is the first in a series of articles looking back at suits I have had made by the world’s major tailors, and examining their style through a consistent set of parameters and images. For background and context,...

Black tie - OxfordMay 25th 2018

The Tailor Styles series

May 24th 2018

The reviews of bespoke suits I’ve written over the years haven’t always been the same. Some included more on the experience (particularly when it was bad); some focused on the fit; others were more about st...

The Tailor Styles series

The reviews of bespoke suits I’ve written over the years haven’t always been the same. Some included more on the experience (particularly when it was bad); some focused on the fit; others were more about st...

Finding a tailor - StyleMay 24th 2018

Sartoria Pasinato: Progressive tailoring in Vicenza...

April 6th 2018

Sartoria Pasinato, in the pretty town of Vicenza in north-eastern Italy, is an interesting example of a progressive tailor that still retains bespoke traditions. Vicenza is industrial and wealthy, famous for its Palladi...

Sartoria Pasinato: Progressive tailoring in Vicenza...

Sartoria Pasinato, in the pretty town of Vicenza in north-eastern Italy, is an interesting example of a progressive tailor that still retains bespoke traditions. Vicenza is industrial and wealthy, famous for its Palladi...

TailorsApril 6th 2018

Sartoria Panico fitting (and a roll neck for a long...

March 30th 2018

One of the less-discussed sides of Pitti Uomo is the number of tailors that set up in a hotel or appartment at the same time as the fair, in order to see customers. Although most visitors to Pitti are buyers from around...

Sartoria Panico fitting (and a roll neck for a long...

One of the less-discussed sides of Pitti Uomo is the number of tailors that set up in a hotel or appartment at the same time as the fair, in order to see customers. Although most visitors to Pitti are buyers from around...

Suits - TailorsMarch 30th 2018

Sartoria Vestrucci charcoal-flannel suit: Review

March 28th 2018

Right. Let’s do this by first running through the Vestrucci style and cut, and then going into the more subjective areas of reaction and experience. The suit being discussed is a Holland & Sherry charcoal fla...

Sartoria Vestrucci charcoal-flannel suit: Review

Right. Let’s do this by first running through the Vestrucci style and cut, and then going into the more subjective areas of reaction and experience. The suit being discussed is a Holland & Sherry charcoal fla...

Suits - TailoringMarch 28th 2018

Video: Sartoria Ciardi in conversation

March 21st 2018

This is the film of our small presentation with Sartoria Ciardi a couple of weeks ago - at Mark's Club in London. We had 25 readers in the audience, with Poppy Charles kindly translating, and the result was a nice, i...

Video: Sartoria Ciardi in conversation

This is the film of our small presentation with Sartoria Ciardi a couple of weeks ago - at Mark's Club in London. We had 25 readers in the audience, with Poppy Charles kindly translating, and the result was a nice, i...

TailorsMarch 21st 2018

Musella Dembech double-breasted cotton suit –...

October 20th 2017

So how shall we review a suit? Let me count the ways. One: style. Still the most important thing, as much as we encourage men everywhere to care more about quality and fit. [Read my first post, with the background on Mu...

Musella Dembech double-breasted cotton suit –...

So how shall we review a suit? Let me count the ways. One: style. Still the most important thing, as much as we encourage men everywhere to care more about quality and fit. [Read my first post, with the background on Mu...

Suits - TailoringOctober 20th 2017

Sartoria Panico – a last great of Neapolitan ...

October 18th 2017

On the wall of Sartoria Panico in Naples, there is a framed picture of our Tailoring Symposium in 2016. Antonio Panico stands there with other greats of modern bespoke such as Edward Sexton, Antonio Liverano and Lorenzo...

Sartoria Panico – a last great of Neapolitan ...

On the wall of Sartoria Panico in Naples, there is a framed picture of our Tailoring Symposium in 2016. Antonio Panico stands there with other greats of modern bespoke such as Edward Sexton, Antonio Liverano and Lorenzo...

Suits - TailoringOctober 18th 2017

Dalcuore: Gigi on expansion, craft and young tailors

August 25th 2017

Gigi doesn’t normally talk much. The master cutter at Neapolitan tailors Dalcuore, he normally stands back, silently, as Damiano and Cristina do the talking. This is both his character and a result of speaking lit...

Dalcuore: Gigi on expansion, craft and young tailors

Gigi doesn’t normally talk much. The master cutter at Neapolitan tailors Dalcuore, he normally stands back, silently, as Damiano and Cristina do the talking. This is both his character and a result of speaking lit...

Jackets - SuitsAugust 25th 2017

Ettore de Cesare workshop, Naples

August 4th 2017

*For more on Ettore de Cesare, and examples of the pieces he has made for me, see original post here* The workshop of Ettore de Cesare is in Vomero, a residential neighbourhood on the hill behind central Naples. But he ...

Ettore de Cesare workshop, Naples

*For more on Ettore de Cesare, and examples of the pieces he has made for me, see original post here* The workshop of Ettore de Cesare is in Vomero, a residential neighbourhood on the hill behind central Naples. But he ...

Jackets - OvercoatsAugust 4th 2017

The tailors I have known

August 30th 2016

This post was originally written in 2012, following a request from a reader. It was a breakdown of all the tailors I have tried, split into different countries. I have endeavoured to update it now, bringing the li...

The tailors I have known

This post was originally written in 2012, following a request from a reader. It was a breakdown of all the tailors I have tried, split into different countries. I have endeavoured to update it now, bringing the li...

TailorsAugust 30th 2016

Manning & Manning bespoke tailoring

April 25th 2016

Earlier this year I started a bespoke summer suit with tailors Manning & Manning. They are a small operation comprising old Row cutter Bryan Manning (above) and his son, with the making outsourced to various coatm...

Manning & Manning bespoke tailoring

Earlier this year I started a bespoke summer suit with tailors Manning & Manning. They are a small operation comprising old Row cutter Bryan Manning (above) and his son, with the making outsourced to various coatm...

Suits - TailoringApril 25th 2016

Whitcomb & Shaftesbury visit the US

March 29th 2016

Whitcomb & Shaftesbury, the fabulously good value tailor I have written about recently, visit the US 5-6 times a year. They will be there next in a couple of weeks – in New York for three days and then Los ...

Whitcomb & Shaftesbury visit the US

Whitcomb & Shaftesbury, the fabulously good value tailor I have written about recently, visit the US 5-6 times a year. They will be there next in a couple of weeks – in New York for three days and then Los ...

TailorsMarch 29th 2016

Whitcomb & Shaftesbury final suit – grea...

February 10th 2016

Back in October there was a lot of interest around my post on the bespoke service at Whitcomb & Shaftesbury. Their ‘classic bespoke’ service, which involves cutting the suit in London (by a very experi...

Whitcomb & Shaftesbury final suit – grea...

Back in October there was a lot of interest around my post on the bespoke service at Whitcomb & Shaftesbury. Their ‘classic bespoke’ service, which involves cutting the suit in London (by a very experi...

Suits - TailoringFebruary 10th 2016

Sartoria Dalcuore bespoke, brown high-twist suit

February 8th 2016

*London trunk show details: February 18-20 info@sartoriadalcuore.com +393458404232 32 Royal Crescent, London W11, UK* It’s been interesting to watch in recent years how more and more small tailors have come to p...

Sartoria Dalcuore bespoke, brown high-twist suit

*London trunk show details: February 18-20 info@sartoriadalcuore.com +393458404232 32 Royal Crescent, London W11, UK* It’s been interesting to watch in recent years how more and more small tailors have come to p...

Suits - TailoringFebruary 8th 2016

Whitcomb & Shaftesbury – first fitting

December 11th 2015

I recently had the basted fitting for my two suits from Whitcomb & Shaftesbury – the tailor that runs a workshop in India but has all the suits cut by the same person London. They had offered to make me tw...

Whitcomb & Shaftesbury – first fitting

I recently had the basted fitting for my two suits from Whitcomb & Shaftesbury – the tailor that runs a workshop in India but has all the suits cut by the same person London. They had offered to make me tw...

TailorsDecember 11th 2015

Edward Sexton flannel – When to wear a suit

December 7th 2015

Apparently people are becoming more casual. There are now such things as luxury jogging bottoms. But I’ll put my money on the fact that – even as the fashion wheel turns – the suit will remain the fo...

Edward Sexton flannel – When to wear a suit

Apparently people are becoming more casual. There are now such things as luxury jogging bottoms. But I’ll put my money on the fact that – even as the fashion wheel turns – the suit will remain the fo...

Style - SuitsDecember 7th 2015

Final Camps de Luca grey suit

November 23rd 2015

My apologies to Philip, who wrote recently that he’s been waiting for my review of this Camps de Luca suit. And to anyone else. The suit was completed a few months ago and we managed to take some photographs las...

Final Camps de Luca grey suit

My apologies to Philip, who wrote recently that he’s been waiting for my review of this Camps de Luca suit. And to anyone else. The suit was completed a few months ago and we managed to take some photographs las...

Suits - TailoringNovember 23rd 2015

Whitcomb & Shaftesbury – foreign bespoke

October 19th 2015

If you’re looking for a good bespoke suit in London, there aren’t many English options between £1000 and £3000 or so. Most are closer to the £1000 make and finish, but simply charge twice as...

Whitcomb & Shaftesbury – foreign bespoke

If you’re looking for a good bespoke suit in London, there aren’t many English options between £1000 and £3000 or so. Most are closer to the £1000 make and finish, but simply charge twice as...

TailorsOctober 19th 2015

Steven Hitchcock fitting: Let the tailor cut his style

September 21st 2015

I return to the drape style with recognisable regularity. For those without a big chest – and not that bothered about big, wide shoulders – it is a very flattering shape. Many also forget how slim it is us...

Steven Hitchcock fitting: Let the tailor cut his style

I return to the drape style with recognisable regularity. For those without a big chest – and not that bothered about big, wide shoulders – it is a very flattering shape. Many also forget how slim it is us...

Tailoring - TailorsSeptember 21st 2015

House styles and difficult customers: The Tailoring...

August 19th 2015

Edward Sexton Before the public part of Tailoring Symposium in June, we all gathered next to the pool at the Four Seasons to have a chat about tailoring and its future, with The Rake busily making a video of the event...

House styles and difficult customers: The Tailoring...

Edward Sexton Before the public part of Tailoring Symposium in June, we all gathered next to the pool at the Four Seasons to have a chat about tailoring and its future, with The Rake busily making a video of the event...

TailorsAugust 19th 2015

Ferdinando Caraceni bespoke cashmere jacket

July 3rd 2015

My final jacket from Ferdinando Caraceni in Milan is superb in many ways, including fit, make and finish. The style, however, is interesting and not necessarily what I expected. I started this project last year with N...

Ferdinando Caraceni bespoke cashmere jacket

My final jacket from Ferdinando Caraceni in Milan is superb in many ways, including fit, make and finish. The style, however, is interesting and not necessarily what I expected. I started this project last year with N...

Jackets - TailoringJuly 3rd 2015