Saman Amel, Licia Luchini, Billy Tannery: Things ...
April 5th 2019This is a post rounding up three recent made-to-measure commissions that for different reasons, didn’t quite work out. As ever with the reviews and commentary, all three brands are aware of the issues, and we have already talked about what can...
Saman Amel, Licia Luchini, Billy Tannery: Things ...
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I don't, sorry Michael...
The Armoury trousers: Osaku, Pommella, Ring Jacke...
November 28th 2018Several readers commented on the post highlighting pieces from No Man Walks Alone that articles on other shops would be helpful, if objective and analytical. If there’s any area that needs this most, it’s trousers. Once men find a model...
The Armoury trousers: Osaku, Pommella, Ring Jacke...
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I live in korea i want to do osaku hayato bespoke but he does not take new customer right now i am thinking ambrosi trunk show at armoury but i prefer straight fit but you know ambrosi is quite tapered...
No Man Walks Alone A/W: Frank Leder, Monitaly, So...
October 29th 2018It’s been over a year since I last had the chance to browse the stock at No Man Walks Alone and write one of these pieces, for which I blame a lack of travel to New York. It is possible to select a few favourites online, of course, particularl...
No Man Walks Alone A/W: Frank Leder, Monitaly, So...
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'No man walks alone' - possibly not the best brand name during the current Covid 19 outbreak. We are all walking alone now! They will need to rebrand....
Our Autumn/Winter Top 10, 2018
October 10th 2018A reader commented on the last instalment of this list that it shaped his whole season’s shopping. No pressure then. Many of the ranges will feature in other coverage later in the year – particularly the ones I’ve alr...
Our Autumn/Winter Top 10, 2018
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Yes good point, I think that was more a case of how I came to feel about the PWVC cut over time, rather than changing my tastes. But yes shetlands I definitely wear less. Apart from those two I wear Colhay's, Bryceland's...
Charcoal donegal-tweed jacket – from Steven...
October 8th 2018Charcoal is a surprisingly useful colour in an odd jacket. Great with muted tones of tan, green or brown, it's also dark enough to go with lighter grey flannels. And charcoal is my favourite colour to wear with cream trousers. It tends to tone down ...
Charcoal donegal-tweed jacket – from Steven...
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I think I'd probably go with belt loops, you're right. It's really a question of what style you want though - side adjustors would be beautiful but smarter and a little more unusual...
Summer checked jacket – at the Dalcuore Rak...
June 29th 2018If there’s one thing I have a (very relative) lack of, it’s summer sports jackets - casual pieces for warm days, using the linen/wool/silk mixes the Italians are so good at. So it was nice to have this jacket from Dalcuore made up in tim...
Summer checked jacket – at the Dalcuore Rak...
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I'd say cream to pale beige. Not a bright or strong colour. I don't know on that bunch I'm afraid...
Indigo, navy and natural: A summer combination
June 11th 2018I’ve always liked indigo in tailoring, and find navy a good partner for it. The deep indigo of this linen shirt from D’Avino, for example, is significantly quietened by the navy blazer over the top, and makes that top half a story...
Indigo, navy and natural: A summer combination
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Yes...
Travel jacket, knitwear and serge trousers
May 4th 2018Last Friday was annoyingly cold, and damp. Combinations of subdued, rich colours always give me the most pleasure - but it felt particularly appropriate on a day like this. The textures of the three pieces also went well together: the fuzzy surfac...
Travel jacket, knitwear and serge trousers
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I think you'd find that would look quite sharp and smart...
Suit Style 8: Trouser measurements, style and pro...
April 30th 2018One of the reasons jacket fits and styles are so hard to describe is they cannot easily be put into numbers. Trousers, by comparison, are pretty straightforward. From the shoe up, there is: circumference at the trouser opening or bottom, at the kne...
Suit Style 8: Trouser measurements, style and pro...
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An interesting point Chris. I haven't made straight comparisons between them, but I do know my trousers have trended a little wider, like my shirts. I've had a few trousers widened and I don't think it throws off the jac...
Filling the gaps: Six pairs of odd trousers
April 18th 2018If shirts are the items in a man’s wardrobe where he wants most predictability and consistency, then trousers are undoubtedly second. In that spirit, over the past year I have regularly commissioned odd trousers (‘odd’ as in separa...
Filling the gaps: Six pairs of odd trousers
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If they only last a month it sounds like you need a more relaxed fit. Something to discuss with your tailor surely?...
Fox re-weave my ecru cavalry twill
February 12th 2018*Cloth now sold out. Fox are taking pre-orders for the next batch* At our pop-up shop back in April 2017, Fox Brothers brought up some vintage bolts to offer readers, including a rather beautiful ecru cavalry twill. I bought a length myself, and s...
Fox re-weave my ecru cavalry twill
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Good advice - thanks! Worst case scenario, I suppose I could just claim a bad case of the runs....
Field jacket, rollneck and flannels
December 11th 2017A few readers last week asked about this outfit I included in our 'High/low dressing' post. It's a combination I love, and shamelessly copied from an Italian gentleman I saw in Milan a few years ago. Men should never be afraid of taking inspiration ...
Field jacket, rollneck and flannels
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Thanks...
Edward Sexton ready-to-wear: Hollywood-top trouse...
December 8th 2017It’s been so fun swapping in brands every week or two during the pop-up shop. A lot of work, but fun: it feels like a different place, a slightly different atmosphere, every weekend. On Wednesday this week we exchanged The Armoury for Drop93 -...
Edward Sexton ready-to-wear: Hollywood-top trouse...
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I'm afraid I don't know much about the make of the RTW jackets, sorry David....
The Drake’s x Permanent Style outfit
November 20th 2017Drake's was one of the first menswear brands that really inspired me, back in the days when I'd sit in Michael Drake's study going through old decorative art books, dissecting patterns. Drake's managed to combine craft and style, deep tradition and ...
The Drake’s x Permanent Style outfit
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Not really, no...
Fox trousers (And everything else from Day 1 of t...
November 17th 2017Matthew Coles of Drake's (and Dominic of Edward Sexton behind) Francis Paley of Chittleborough & Morgan (a photography magnet...) Allan's family! There was a really lovely atmosphere to the opening of our second pop-up shop on Wednesday nigh...
Fox trousers (And everything else from Day 1 of t...
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No, flannel trousers are not that suited to hot, humid weather...
Pommella bespoke trousers – Review
November 3rd 2017Lino Pommella recently became the latest entrant into a group of travelling, Neapolitan trouser makers - a path forged, of course, by Salvatore Ambrosi. The other notable one is Cerrato, whom we have covered elsewhere but who only currently travels ...
Pommella bespoke trousers – Review
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Thanks Simon. Understood!...
Bespoke commissions – What I should and sho...
September 20th 2017Thank you everyone that responded to my ‘You are the interviewer’ post a couple of weeks ago. The number of variety of questions was staggering, and I will try to answer as many as I can over the coming weeks. It may take time, but I wou...
Bespoke commissions – What I should and sho...
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Hi there, apologies for the late reply, this dropped into spam for some reason. First thing I would say is, don't try and have Graham Browne make you a softer jacket - I tried that over a decade ago now, and others have ...
The Ambrosi workshop, Naples
September 18th 2017I think there is a tendency to view my reviews of artisans as binary - either ‘good’ or ‘bad’. Perhaps because there are just so few bad reviews of luxury products. But the reality is no view is straightforward. Some tailors ...
The Ambrosi workshop, Naples
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As far as I know there still is, yes. Have you not tried a Google search?...
How to dress for very hot weather
August 16th 2017As mentioned on my ‘What I pack’ post, I’ve been travelling a lot in high heat recently. There was Pitti in Florence, where the temperature topped out at 37 degrees. Naples in July was very similar. And Puglia at the end ...
How to dress for very hot weather
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I haven't Maurice, good point. Perhaps I can look to something this winter. I have tried fine wool in the summer and always found a fine cotton was OK - it has to be fine, otherwise as you say they aren't breathable and ...
P Johnson tailoring – Review
August 9th 2017As with most of my reviews, I wrote a first, introductory post on P Johnson last year, after they opened in London. My apologies that the full review, here, has taken so long. In that time John, James and the others have moved from the pop-up in Soh...
P Johnson tailoring – Review
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Bijan already retired. One of his apprentices Noal Gurung opened his own business called 1mm in the central business district, not far from Bijan's own shop. There is another business Sartoria Sciarra that would be of in...
The Hollywood-top trouser – from Edward Sexton
July 31st 2017*UPDATE: Edward Sexton have just confirmed they will producing a ready-to-wear version this Autumn/Winter, probably in flannel, price around £600* One of the more unusual bespoke commissions I made over the past six months was these linen trou...
The Hollywood-top trouser – from Edward Sexton
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Thank you! And yes, apologies. I do remember now seeing these articles about revisiting/how things age....
Marco Cerrato – the family trouser workshop
July 21st 2017This is the first in what will be a series on artisanal workshops in Naples - following my trip there with Jamie a couple of weeks ago. One of the loveliest we visited was the Cerrato atelier, which is on the first floor of an building in the Spani...
Marco Cerrato – the family trouser workshop
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Personally, I don't like this style M. I've had them before, for example as the trousers to this jacket from Cifonelli. And I find they don't look like jeans at all, just slightly unusual tailored trousers. Which is fine...
Drape and extended shoulders: The Disguisery
June 21st 2017Last year I got to know a group called The Disguisery , based in Fitzrovia. (‘Disguisery’ is a collective noun for tailors.) A trouser workshop for many houses on Savile Row, they have been branching out into jackets and suiting, and cre...
Drape and extended shoulders: The Disguisery
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No problem at all Andrew, it always helps others as well...
Summer colours: Tobacco and tan
May 12th 2017Shades of tobacco and tan are one of the loveliest things to wear in the Summer. As the weather warms up, I've put together three outfits here - all somewhere in the 5 to 7 formality range - that illustrate this. They are displayed on my wonderf...
Summer colours: Tobacco and tan
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That bunch is no longer current I'm afraid (as with pretty much all cloths older than 2 or 3 years). Most still carry a natural or biscuit-coloured version however...
The guide to summer trouser cloths
May 10th 2017The key functional aspect of trouser cloth is the body that enables it to drape well and hold its shape. It should throw a nice, clean line down the leg, hold its crease, and recover from wrinkling when hung at the end of the day. Unfortunately, this...
The guide to summer trouser cloths
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In theory, a cotton/linen could be fine for a tailored trouser. But most of the time that fibre combination is woven in an open, lightweight way which makes it less smart and not hold a shape well...
