The guide to shirting weaves and designs

April 11th 2018

In this next article in our series on shirtings, we describe and define the different types of fabric (oxford, chambray, denim) with both text descriptions and illustrations. They are set out in groups by the part of th...

The guide to shirting weaves and designs

In this next article in our series on shirtings, we describe and define the different types of fabric (oxford, chambray, denim) with both text descriptions and illustrations. They are set out in groups by the part of th...

ShirtsApril 11th 2018

Unexpected texture and colour – Denim and linen

March 19th 2018

I think it’s telling that the thing that makes me happiest about this outfit is the oatmeal-linen shirt, a piece made bespoke by D’Avino. I’ve been doing this for a while - trying to combine pieces of ...

Unexpected texture and colour – Denim and linen

I think it’s telling that the thing that makes me happiest about this outfit is the oatmeal-linen shirt, a piece made bespoke by D’Avino. I’ve been doing this for a while - trying to combine pieces of ...

Jackets - ShirtsMarch 19th 2018

How to pick shirt cloth

February 19th 2018

This is the beginning of an occasional series on shirtings, following a similar model to our Guide to Cloth on tailoring fabrics. As with that, we start with the basics here and will then burrow ever deeper in the comin...

How to pick shirt cloth

This is the beginning of an occasional series on shirtings, following a similar model to our Guide to Cloth on tailoring fabrics. As with that, we start with the basics here and will then burrow ever deeper in the comin...

Shirts - Shirts and tiesFebruary 19th 2018

The Shirtmakers Symposium – The debate

January 18th 2018

Below you can find the full video of our Shirtmakers Symposium in Florence. It's a little basic, but thankfully the sound worked well and it's audible throughout. Silvio Albini makes a lovely introduction at the start, ...

The Shirtmakers Symposium – The debate

Below you can find the full video of our Shirtmakers Symposium in Florence. It's a little basic, but thankfully the sound worked well and it's audible throughout. Silvio Albini makes a lovely introduction at the start, ...

ShirtsJanuary 18th 2018

Technical details at the Shirtmakers Symposium

January 17th 2018

[The votes and nominations for the Permanent Style awards closed today, by the way. Thank you for all your comments and emails. The winners will be announced next week.] At the Shirtmakers Symposium in Florence last wee...

Technical details at the Shirtmakers Symposium

[The votes and nominations for the Permanent Style awards closed today, by the way. Thank you for all your comments and emails. The winners will be announced next week.] At the Shirtmakers Symposium in Florence last wee...

ShirtsJanuary 17th 2018

The Shirtmakers Symposium – The speakers

January 15th 2018

Left to right: Simon Crompton, Justin Chang, Jack Sepetjian, Darren Tiernan, Silvio Albini, Luca Avitabile, Paolo Maffeis.The Shirtmakers Symposium last Wednesday went so well: great location, great speakers, great disc...

The Shirtmakers Symposium – The speakers

Left to right: Simon Crompton, Justin Chang, Jack Sepetjian, Darren Tiernan, Silvio Albini, Luca Avitabile, Paolo Maffeis.The Shirtmakers Symposium last Wednesday went so well: great location, great speakers, great disc...

ShirtsJanuary 15th 2018

A casual capsule: The Valstarino jacket three ways

December 21st 2017

The blouson in general, but particularly in brown and especially in brown suede, has to be one of the most versatile pieces in a man's wardrobe. The shape is short and neat enough to work well with smarter clothing; sue...

A casual capsule: The Valstarino jacket three ways

The blouson in general, but particularly in brown and especially in brown suede, has to be one of the most versatile pieces in a man's wardrobe. The shape is short and neat enough to work well with smarter clothing; sue...

Casual jackets - Casual wearDecember 21st 2017

Shibumi ties, Burgos shirts and tebas – in th...

December 15th 2017

I’ve noticed in the past year that a lot of my favourite ties are from Shibumi. They’re always on the end of the rail; they always get picked up first. Yet I haven’t written about them for quite a whil...

Shibumi ties, Burgos shirts and tebas – in th...

I’ve noticed in the past year that a lot of my favourite ties are from Shibumi. They’re always on the end of the rail; they always get picked up first. Yet I haven’t written about them for quite a whil...

Shirts - Shirts and tiesDecember 15th 2017

Edward Sexton ready-to-wear: Hollywood-top trousers...

December 8th 2017

It’s been so fun swapping in brands every week or two during the pop-up shop. A lot of work, but fun: it feels like a different place, a slightly different atmosphere, every weekend. On Wednesday this week we exch...

Edward Sexton ready-to-wear: Hollywood-top trousers...

It’s been so fun swapping in brands every week or two during the pop-up shop. A lot of work, but fun: it feels like a different place, a slightly different atmosphere, every weekend. On Wednesday this week we exch...

Knitwear - ShirtsDecember 8th 2017

Shirtmakers and details announced for the Symposium

December 4th 2017

I'm pleased to say we have all the details confirmed for our Shirtmakers Symposium in Florence this January. Please do RSVP to symposium@albinigroup.com if you would like to attend. We expect it to be quite packed. Th...

Shirtmakers and details announced for the Symposium

I'm pleased to say we have all the details confirmed for our Shirtmakers Symposium in Florence this January. Please do RSVP to symposium@albinigroup.com if you would like to attend. We expect it to be quite packed. Th...

ShirtsDecember 4th 2017

Begg, J. Girdwood and The Rake (Chapal, Sciamat, 10...

December 1st 2017

First off, I need to mention that the J.Girdwood website is finally up and active. Anyone that has been into the first or second pop-ups will have seen James (above) and his J.Girdwood range of products. They include s...

Begg, J. Girdwood and The Rake (Chapal, Sciamat, 10...

First off, I need to mention that the J.Girdwood website is finally up and active. Anyone that has been into the first or second pop-ups will have seen James (above) and his J.Girdwood range of products. They include s...

Accessories - BootDecember 1st 2017

The Drake’s x Permanent Style outfit

November 20th 2017

Drake's was one of the first menswear brands that really inspired me, back in the days when I'd sit in Michael Drake's study going through old decorative art books, dissecting patterns. Drake's managed to combine craft ...

The Drake’s x Permanent Style outfit

Drake's was one of the first menswear brands that really inspired me, back in the days when I'd sit in Michael Drake's study going through old decorative art books, dissecting patterns. Drake's managed to combine craft ...

Jackets - ShirtsNovember 20th 2017

Everyday Denim cloth available again

October 17th 2017

One of the lovely things about the Everyday Denim we launched a couple of weeks ago was how quickly the cloth sold. It's always hard to know how well a new type of product will do, and I'd clearly underestimated the ap...

Everyday Denim cloth available again

One of the lovely things about the Everyday Denim we launched a couple of weeks ago was how quickly the cloth sold. It's always hard to know how well a new type of product will do, and I'd clearly underestimated the ap...

Shirts and tiesOctober 17th 2017

Marol shirts – coming to London

September 29th 2017

In the past year there has been a lot of promotion and discussion of Italian shirt manufacturer Marol - since it was bought into by commodities trader and menswear enthusiast Bo Yang (below). Next month, readers in Lond...

Marol shirts – coming to London

In the past year there has been a lot of promotion and discussion of Italian shirt manufacturer Marol - since it was bought into by commodities trader and menswear enthusiast Bo Yang (below). Next month, readers in Lond...

Shirts - Shirts and tiesSeptember 29th 2017

Factory visit: Albini shirtings

August 28th 2017

Although we’ve covered several mills over the years on Permanent Style (such as Pennine, Loro Piana, Robert Noble and VBC), I’ve never visited a shirting mill. The fact that our first one was Albini was pure...

Factory visit: Albini shirtings

Although we’ve covered several mills over the years on Permanent Style (such as Pennine, Loro Piana, Robert Noble and VBC), I’ve never visited a shirting mill. The fact that our first one was Albini was pure...

Shirts - Shirts and tiesAugust 28th 2017

The D’Avino shirt workshop – Somma Vesu...

July 28th 2017

As mentioned in our post on Marco Cerrato last week, much of the sartorial industry in Naples occurs outside the city - in the suburbs and towns of the surrounding area. Much of this is in the north-east, just above Mou...

The D’Avino shirt workshop – Somma Vesu...

As mentioned in our post on Marco Cerrato last week, much of the sartorial industry in Naples occurs outside the city - in the suburbs and towns of the surrounding area. Much of this is in the north-east, just above Mou...

Shirts - Shirts and tiesJuly 28th 2017

Connolly: Style and fashion meet on Clifford Street

July 14th 2017

Connolly, which opened on Clifford Street at the end of last year, is one of the most interesting new menswear stores London has had for a while. It offers luxury clothing, both under its own name and a few European bra...

Connolly: Style and fashion meet on Clifford Street

Connolly, which opened on Clifford Street at the end of last year, is one of the most interesting new menswear stores London has had for a while. It offers luxury clothing, both under its own name and a few European bra...

Accessories - BagsJuly 14th 2017

D’Avino linen shirts – in denim, oatmea...

June 14th 2017

I recently took delivery of a set of linen shirts from D'Avino in Naples (it's been a good quarter...) and I thought the colour selection I ended up with was interesting. I'm increasingly moving away from the more corp...

D’Avino linen shirts – in denim, oatmea...

I recently took delivery of a set of linen shirts from D'Avino in Naples (it's been a good quarter...) and I thought the colour selection I ended up with was interesting. I'm increasingly moving away from the more corp...

Shirts - Shirts and tiesJune 14th 2017

Charvet bespoke shirt: Review

June 5th 2017

First off, I would like to apologise to readers that this review has taken so long. There has simply been so much going on that it has been hard to find the time to prioritise it. Now, to Charvet. I had this shirt made...

Charvet bespoke shirt: Review

First off, I would like to apologise to readers that this review has taken so long. There has simply been so much going on that it has been hard to find the time to prioritise it. Now, to Charvet. I had this shirt made...

Shirts - Shirts and tiesJune 5th 2017

Shirting mills and brands explained

May 15th 2017

The world of shirtings is not as confusing as suitings. As outlined in two Permanent Style pieces (on English mills and Italian mills), there is a huge variation of mills, brands and integration in tailoring cloths that...

Shirting mills and brands explained

The world of shirtings is not as confusing as suitings. As outlined in two Permanent Style pieces (on English mills and Italian mills), there is a huge variation of mills, brands and integration in tailoring cloths that...

Shirts - Shirts and tiesMay 15th 2017

Bigi ties – Milan workshop

May 8th 2017

Bigi is in many ways what Drake's used to be before the expansion of its retail and collection: a small brand and a top-line tie manufacturer making for the world's top stores. A third generation company, it has a works...

Bigi ties – Milan workshop

Bigi is in many ways what Drake's used to be before the expansion of its retail and collection: a small brand and a top-line tie manufacturer making for the world's top stores. A third generation company, it has a works...

Shirts and ties - TiesMay 8th 2017

The vintage feel of Tie Your Tie (and Sevenfold, Ke...

April 13th 2017

Talking with Kenji Kaga of Sevenfold (and Tie Your Tie) recently threw up some interesting questions around what makes a tie appear vintage. Kenji is heavily influenced by 1940s-1950s styles, as is evident in his tailor...

The vintage feel of Tie Your Tie (and Sevenfold, Ke...

Talking with Kenji Kaga of Sevenfold (and Tie Your Tie) recently threw up some interesting questions around what makes a tie appear vintage. Kenji is heavily influenced by 1940s-1950s styles, as is evident in his tailor...

Shirts and ties - TiesApril 13th 2017

Brand round-up: R. Culturi, Mes Chaussettes Rouges,...

March 20th 2017

1 R. Culturi There are many brands launching ties or handkerchiefs online these days, given it’s an easy area to try and express something new - and the lack of sizing makes it relatively easy to sell online. One ...

Brand round-up: R. Culturi, Mes Chaussettes Rouges,...

1 R. Culturi There are many brands launching ties or handkerchiefs online these days, given it’s an easy area to try and express something new - and the lack of sizing makes it relatively easy to sell online. One ...

Accessories - Casual wearMarch 20th 2017

Baudoin & Lange, Luca Faloni, Hanger Project a...

March 8th 2017

Over the past 10 days I have generally prioritised writing about new brands in our Savile Row pop-up shop. But there are also new developments at makers you will be familiar with - Baudoin & Lange, Luca Faloni, Beg...

Baudoin & Lange, Luca Faloni, Hanger Project a...

Over the past 10 days I have generally prioritised writing about new brands in our Savile Row pop-up shop. But there are also new developments at makers you will be familiar with - Baudoin & Lange, Luca Faloni, Beg...

Accessories - LoaferMarch 8th 2017

Double-breasted flannel suit – with pink and ...

December 26th 2016

I know I've written about green and pink a few times before. I could find one old post with a little flower illustration, but there must be more. Perhaps it's the fog of Christmas food and wine clouding my mind. In any...

Double-breasted flannel suit – with pink and ...

I know I've written about green and pink a few times before. I could find one old post with a little flower illustration, but there must be more. Perhaps it's the fog of Christmas food and wine clouding my mind. In any...

Accessories - HandkerchiefsDecember 26th 2016