Satoki Kawai of Sartoria Cresent: bespoke tailor, M...

February 17th 2017

Creare - to create Sentire - to feel For Japanese tailor Satoki Kawai, these are the two most important things about making a piece of clothing - and are the reason his tailoring house combines the two in its portmante...

Satoki Kawai of Sartoria Cresent: bespoke tailor, M...

Creare - to create Sentire - to feel For Japanese tailor Satoki Kawai, these are the two most important things about making a piece of clothing - and are the reason his tailoring house combines the two in its portmante...

Finding a tailor - TailoringFebruary 17th 2017

Signor Francesco: bespoke tailor, Toronto

February 8th 2017

I have visited LeatherFoot in Toronto, Canada twice in the past year, and each time the aspect I have liked most is the on-site tailoring workshop. So few shops have crafts on-site, even though it gives them a direct co...

Signor Francesco: bespoke tailor, Toronto

I have visited LeatherFoot in Toronto, Canada twice in the past year, and each time the aspect I have liked most is the on-site tailoring workshop. So few shops have crafts on-site, even though it gives them a direct co...

Finding a tailor - TailoringFebruary 8th 2017

The Dunhill archive

February 1st 2017

As 'heritage' has become more popular in recent years, brands have increasingly emphasised their longevity, their history and their traditions. This has several issues. Most obviously, the brands that push this hardest...

The Dunhill archive

As 'heritage' has become more popular in recent years, brands have increasingly emphasised their longevity, their history and their traditions. This has several issues. Most obviously, the brands that push this hardest...

Accessories - Casual wearFebruary 1st 2017

Video: Evening wear at the Huntsman dinner

January 31st 2017

As requested by readers, here is the video coverage we took on the night at our Huntsman dinner a couple of weeks ago. The sound quality isn't perfect (our fault) but you can certainly hear the short explanation I gave...

Video: Evening wear at the Huntsman dinner

As requested by readers, here is the video coverage we took on the night at our Huntsman dinner a couple of weeks ago. The sound quality isn't perfect (our fault) but you can certainly hear the short explanation I gave...

Black tie - TailoringJanuary 31st 2017

Corduroy suit from Sartoria Pirozzi, Naples

January 30th 2017

This is the corduroy suit I featured the fitting of last October - at the E. Marinella store in London. Although labelled as Marinella, it was made by Nunzio Pirozzi - a Neapolitan tailor with a wonderful moustache and...

Corduroy suit from Sartoria Pirozzi, Naples

This is the corduroy suit I featured the fitting of last October - at the E. Marinella store in London. Although labelled as Marinella, it was made by Nunzio Pirozzi - a Neapolitan tailor with a wonderful moustache and...

Finding a tailor - SuitsJanuary 30th 2017

The ‘Guide to Cloth’ microsite

January 27th 2017

Someone asked me the other day when I'm going to run out of things to write about. To be honest I have yet to have that problem - there's usually too much rather than too little. But as one writes more (1612 posts and ...

The ‘Guide to Cloth’ microsite

Someone asked me the other day when I'm going to run out of things to write about. To be honest I have yet to have that problem - there's usually too much rather than too little. But as one writes more (1612 posts and ...

ClothJanuary 27th 2017

Huntsman dinner: The reader outfits

January 26th 2017

As mentioned in my original post about this reader competition, our aim was to explore the different forms formalwear can take today. Men will always have a need to dress up, in order to appear appropriately for a smar...

Huntsman dinner: The reader outfits

As mentioned in my original post about this reader competition, our aim was to explore the different forms formalwear can take today. Men will always have a need to dress up, in order to appear appropriately for a smar...

Black tie - TailoringJanuary 26th 2017

Huntsman dinner: The evolution of formal wear

January 25th 2017

Meekal Hashmi Last week’s readers dinner was, perhaps surprisingly, one of the more enjoyable evenings I’ve had in a long time. I say surprisingly because, as lovely as all the readers were certainly going t...

Huntsman dinner: The evolution of formal wear

Meekal Hashmi Last week’s readers dinner was, perhaps surprisingly, one of the more enjoyable evenings I’ve had in a long time. I say surprisingly because, as lovely as all the readers were certainly going t...

Black tie - TailoringJanuary 25th 2017

The guide to cloth: Weaves and designs

January 23rd 2017

The next in our series on Cloth is a guide to weaves and to designs. As with the A-Z this is meant as a reference tool, which we will link to as we publish more detailed pieces about trousers, jackets or overcoats. When ...

The guide to cloth: Weaves and designs

The next in our series on Cloth is a guide to weaves and to designs. As with the A-Z this is meant as a reference tool, which we will link to as we publish more detailed pieces about trousers, jackets or overcoats. When ...

ClothJanuary 23rd 2017

Harris Tweed waistcoat, Richard James

January 9th 2017

Although we discussed last week that the fit of a jacket is the most important - and flattering - part of tailoring, a waistcoat is in some ways the most satisfying. Of all the tailored garments, it is the one that sit...

Harris Tweed waistcoat, Richard James

Although we discussed last week that the fit of a jacket is the most important - and flattering - part of tailoring, a waistcoat is in some ways the most satisfying. Of all the tailored garments, it is the one that sit...

Casual wear - TailoringJanuary 9th 2017

Building a wardrobe: Neapolitan tailoring

January 6th 2017

In recent months a few readers have asked for a breakdown of how I built my wardrobe - my plans, my process and my lessons learned. Doing so across all types of garment and even styles would produce a very long, unwield...

Building a wardrobe: Neapolitan tailoring

In recent months a few readers have asked for a breakdown of how I built my wardrobe - my plans, my process and my lessons learned. Doing so across all types of garment and even styles would produce a very long, unwield...

Finding a tailor - TailoringJanuary 6th 2017

The importance of fit

January 2nd 2017

Akihiro Mizobata, Ring Jacket A well-fitted jacket is the most flattering thing a man can own. It occurred to me recently - in conversation with a long-term reader - that we don’t talk about the importance of fit ...

The importance of fit

Akihiro Mizobata, Ring Jacket A well-fitted jacket is the most flattering thing a man can own. It occurred to me recently - in conversation with a long-term reader - that we don’t talk about the importance of fit ...

TailoringJanuary 2nd 2017

Staples for a hot climate – Reader question

December 28th 2016

Dear Simon, I recently read your 2014 article, ' The staples of a good wardrobe' and was wondering how you would modify it for warmer climes like Hong Kong and Singapore? Grey flannel isn’t a great option for mos...

Staples for a hot climate – Reader question

Dear Simon, I recently read your 2014 article, ' The staples of a good wardrobe' and was wondering how you would modify it for warmer climes like Hong Kong and Singapore? Grey flannel isn’t a great option for mos...

Style - TailoringDecember 28th 2016

Japanese trouser makers: Osaku and Igarashi

December 21st 2016

In most areas of the world, tailors commonly outsource their trouser making: cutting in-house but then sending the work to ateliers used by several different houses. Just as common in recent years has been the move for ...

Japanese trouser makers: Osaku and Igarashi

In most areas of the world, tailors commonly outsource their trouser making: cutting in-house but then sending the work to ateliers used by several different houses. Just as common in recent years has been the move for ...

Tailoring - TrousersDecember 21st 2016

My seasonal selection on No Man Walks Alone

December 18th 2016

Earlier this week, No Man Walks Alone published a piece I wrote for them while in New York, selecting my favourite pieces from the stacked shelves of their NY showroom. This is something we started with the Spring/Summ...

My seasonal selection on No Man Walks Alone

Earlier this week, No Man Walks Alone published a piece I wrote for them while in New York, selecting my favourite pieces from the stacked shelves of their NY showroom. This is something we started with the Spring/Summ...

Casual jackets - Casual wearDecember 18th 2016

Cover story in Plaza Uomo

December 16th 2016

These things always seem to come in bunches. First Esquire named me in a top 10 and now Plaza Uomo have published their latest edition, with a profile of me as the cover story. Plaza is a Swedish fashion magazine, and...

Cover story in Plaza Uomo

These things always seem to come in bunches. First Esquire named me in a top 10 and now Plaza Uomo have published their latest edition, with a profile of me as the cover story. Plaza is a Swedish fashion magazine, and...

Accessories - HatsDecember 16th 2016

Come to dinner at Huntsman

December 13th 2016

So, Huntsman invited me to host a dinner in their Savile Row shop in January. And rather than invite people from the industry (as we did last time in our Gathering dinner) I thought it would be nice to have reader...

Come to dinner at Huntsman

So, Huntsman invited me to host a dinner in their Savile Row shop in January. And rather than invite people from the industry (as we did last time in our Gathering dinner) I thought it would be nice to have reader...

Black tie - TailoringDecember 13th 2016

‘Snob’ Tailoring book republished

December 12th 2016

It seems to be the month for notices and happenings. This latest one is to note that the tailoring book I originally wrote back in 2011 has been republished. I've had lots of enquiries over the past year about this boo...

‘Snob’ Tailoring book republished

It seems to be the month for notices and happenings. This latest one is to note that the tailoring book I originally wrote back in 2011 has been republished. I've had lots of enquiries over the past year about this boo...

SuitsDecember 12th 2016

Unstructured casentino coat – Rubinacci x The...

December 9th 2016

Although some of the products aren't to my taste, I always keep an eye on what The Rake are doing in terms of collaborations. It's interesting to see a clear vision move through different brands and categories. One tha...

Unstructured casentino coat – Rubinacci x The...

Although some of the products aren't to my taste, I always keep an eye on what The Rake are doing in terms of collaborations. It's interesting to see a clear vision move through different brands and categories. One tha...

Overcoats - TailoringDecember 9th 2016

Video: The Young Tailors Symposium

November 18th 2016

Looking back on it, our summer 2016 edition of the Symposium series - which focused on young tailors - was particularly interesting. It's easy to forget until you see our film, shown here, how much the backgrounds of ea...

Video: The Young Tailors Symposium

Looking back on it, our summer 2016 edition of the Symposium series - which focused on young tailors - was particularly interesting. It's easy to forget until you see our film, shown here, how much the backgrounds of ea...

TailoringNovember 18th 2016

A pale-grey jacket with green corduroy

November 14th 2016

This outfit was used in a piece written recently for Drake's regarding corduroy. The piece mentions some of the associations that corduroy often carries, and ways to avoid them; basically, keeping the colours dark and ...

A pale-grey jacket with green corduroy

This outfit was used in a piece written recently for Drake's regarding corduroy. The piece mentions some of the associations that corduroy often carries, and ways to avoid them; basically, keeping the colours dark and ...

Bags - HatsNovember 14th 2016

The A-Z of cloth

November 11th 2016

As the next post in our series The Guide to Cloth, we have put together a glossary of cloth-related terms, covering everything from different animal fibres and their properties, to the various stages of spinning and fini...

The A-Z of cloth

As the next post in our series The Guide to Cloth, we have put together a glossary of cloth-related terms, covering everything from different animal fibres and their properties, to the various stages of spinning and fini...

ClothNovember 11th 2016

Ethan Newton’s Tokyo store – Bryceland&...

November 4th 2016

I was quite intrigued to see Ethan Newton’s Bryceland's store in Tokyo when we visited a few weeks ago. In particular, how he is presenting his view on tailoring and how that mixes with the more casual americana s...

Ethan Newton’s Tokyo store – Bryceland&...

I was quite intrigued to see Ethan Newton’s Bryceland's store in Tokyo when we visited a few weeks ago. In particular, how he is presenting his view on tailoring and how that mixes with the more casual americana s...

Bags - Casual jacketsNovember 4th 2016

The guide to worsted suitings

October 31st 2016

Choosing a suit cloth is, in some ways, harder than any other area of clothing. Because they all look so similar. If we leave aside the more aesthetic – and subjective areas – of colour and pattern, we are l...

The guide to worsted suitings

Choosing a suit cloth is, in some ways, harder than any other area of clothing. Because they all look so similar. If we leave aside the more aesthetic – and subjective areas – of colour and pattern, we are l...

Cloth - October 31st 2016

Japanese tailors: Anglofilo, Sartoria Domenica, Vic...

October 19th 2016

The Japanese tailoring tradition is relatively short. After all, until the Meiji Restoration in 1868, almost no western-style tailoring was worn in the country. The Restoration made western dress required for courtiers ...

Japanese tailors: Anglofilo, Sartoria Domenica, Vic...

The Japanese tailoring tradition is relatively short. After all, until the Meiji Restoration in 1868, almost no western-style tailoring was worn in the country. The Restoration made western dress required for courtiers ...

Finding a tailor - JacketsOctober 19th 2016

The guide to jacketings

October 17th 2016

What makes a cloth suitable for a jacket, but not for a suit? This is a question I know many readers struggle with, particularly as offices become more casual. Without the safety of a dark suit and dark shoes, what shoul...

The guide to jacketings

What makes a cloth suitable for a jacket, but not for a suit? This is a question I know many readers struggle with, particularly as offices become more casual. Without the safety of a dark suit and dark shoes, what shoul...

Cloth - TailoringOctober 17th 2016

The Permanent Style trunk show

October 14th 2016

Thank you. Thank you so much on my behalf, and more importantly on behalf of the four artisans - who trusted me, and by extension you, to come over to London and do something they'd never done before, in a location they...

The Permanent Style trunk show

Thank you. Thank you so much on my behalf, and more importantly on behalf of the four artisans - who trusted me, and by extension you, to come over to London and do something they'd never done before, in a location they...

Bags - GlovesOctober 14th 2016

Ferdinando Caraceni double-breasted cotton jacket

October 10th 2016

This is my final cotton jacket from Ferdinando Caraceni - which fortunately I received a few weeks ago and was therefore able to wear a fair bit before the weather turned. It is obvious even now that this is a piece tha...

Ferdinando Caraceni double-breasted cotton jacket

This is my final cotton jacket from Ferdinando Caraceni - which fortunately I received a few weeks ago and was therefore able to wear a fair bit before the weather turned. It is obvious even now that this is a piece tha...

Jackets - TailoringOctober 10th 2016

Sartoria Pirozzi at E Marinella, and the ‘thr...

October 3rd 2016

The amount of good soft-tailoring in London seems to increase by the month. And not just because people decide to start travelling: sometimes I just miss them. Nunzio Pirozzi has been travelling to the E Marinella store...

Sartoria Pirozzi at E Marinella, and the ‘thr...

The amount of good soft-tailoring in London seems to increase by the month. And not just because people decide to start travelling: sometimes I just miss them. Nunzio Pirozzi has been travelling to the E Marinella store...

Cloth - Finding a tailorOctober 3rd 2016

The basics of selecting cloth

September 28th 2016

Selecting cloth may be the hardest part of the bespoke (or made-to-measure) process. You pick the style of a suit every time you buy one off the rack, but you’re unlikely to have ever looked at a tiny square of clo...

The basics of selecting cloth

Selecting cloth may be the hardest part of the bespoke (or made-to-measure) process. You pick the style of a suit every time you buy one off the rack, but you’re unlikely to have ever looked at a tiny square of clo...

ClothSeptember 28th 2016

Introducing: The Guide to Cloth

September 26th 2016

This week we are launching another big project for Permanent Style: The Guide to Cloth. This has been a long time in the works, but we wanted to do it right. There is a lot of piecemeal information out there about cloths...

Introducing: The Guide to Cloth

This week we are launching another big project for Permanent Style: The Guide to Cloth. This has been a long time in the works, but we wanted to do it right. There is a lot of piecemeal information out there about cloths...

ClothSeptember 26th 2016

Cerrato bespoke trousers, Naples

September 21st 2016

Over the past few weeks I've been talking to Neapolitan trouser makers Marco and Massimo Cerrato, and commissioning the pair in cotton drill pictured here. I'm pleased to say that it looks like we have a reliable, good...

Cerrato bespoke trousers, Naples

Over the past few weeks I've been talking to Neapolitan trouser makers Marco and Massimo Cerrato, and commissioning the pair in cotton drill pictured here. I'm pleased to say that it looks like we have a reliable, good...

Tailoring - TrousersSeptember 21st 2016

How to talk to a tailor

September 12th 2016

I get nervous talking to tailors. Not to stumble or stutter, but there will always be a point where I want to bring something up, and hesitate. Being in tailor's is intimidating, whether on Savile Row or not. In fact mo...

How to talk to a tailor

I get nervous talking to tailors. Not to stumble or stutter, but there will always be a point where I want to bring something up, and hesitate. Being in tailor's is intimidating, whether on Savile Row or not. In fact mo...

Finding a tailor - TailoringSeptember 12th 2016

The corduroy suit

September 9th 2016

I have a friend who wears what he calls ‘knockabout’ suits. How exactly he knocks about in them I don’t know, but the meaning is clear: these are casual suits, that don’t belong in a formal envir...

The corduroy suit

I have a friend who wears what he calls ‘knockabout’ suits. How exactly he knocks about in them I don’t know, but the meaning is clear: these are casual suits, that don’t belong in a formal envir...

Casual jackets - ClothSeptember 9th 2016

Permanent Style trunk show: Heurtault, Amoruso, Cer...

September 7th 2016

I am very proud to say that we have a Permanent Style trunk show organised for October 5th, co-hosted with Gaziano & Girling at their Savile Row store. This has been a good while in the making, particularly as I wa...

Permanent Style trunk show: Heurtault, Amoruso, Cer...

I am very proud to say that we have a Permanent Style trunk show organised for October 5th, co-hosted with Gaziano & Girling at their Savile Row store. This has been a good while in the making, particularly as I wa...

Bags - Belts and walletsSeptember 7th 2016

Five double-breasted styles compared

September 1st 2016

Last month we talked about how small changes in the proportions of a double-breasted jacket can have a radical effect on its style - and therefore on the people or situations it suits. This week I've used five of my ow...

Five double-breasted styles compared

Last month we talked about how small changes in the proportions of a double-breasted jacket can have a radical effect on its style - and therefore on the people or situations it suits. This week I've used five of my ow...

Suits - TailoringSeptember 1st 2016

Chinos, loafers and a sports jacket (or sweater)

August 29th 2016

Those on the Drake’s mailing list may have seen this outfit on Friday, accompanying an article on their new trouser range. To fill in the details: the olive Drake’s chinos were worn with a white lightweight ...

Chinos, loafers and a sports jacket (or sweater)

Those on the Drake’s mailing list may have seen this outfit on Friday, accompanying an article on their new trouser range. To fill in the details: the olive Drake’s chinos were worn with a white lightweight ...

Casual wear - JacketsAugust 29th 2016

A very modern cut: Kotaro Miyahira of Sartoria Corc...

August 26th 2016

One young tailor I’ve been meaning to cover for a while is Kotaro Miyahira of Sartoria Corcos, in Florence. Kotaro is not taking on new clients at the moment, having just had his first child and not wanting to exp...

A very modern cut: Kotaro Miyahira of Sartoria Corc...

One young tailor I’ve been meaning to cover for a while is Kotaro Miyahira of Sartoria Corcos, in Florence. Kotaro is not taking on new clients at the moment, having just had his first child and not wanting to exp...

Finding a tailor - TailoringAugust 26th 2016

Why I don’t wear braces

August 24th 2016

Braces (or suspenders) are great. The tension in hanging from the shoulders maintains a smooth, elegant front to trousers. The high-waisted style gives a man longer legs and stops any shirt puffing out between trouser t...

Why I don’t wear braces

Braces (or suspenders) are great. The tension in hanging from the shoulders maintains a smooth, elegant front to trousers. The high-waisted style gives a man longer legs and stops any shirt puffing out between trouser t...

Style - TailoringAugust 24th 2016

A lapis-blue linen jacket for summer

August 20th 2016

Summer clothing, particularly from Italian brands, often includes a lot of light, bright colours. These can be difficult to wear, particularly in northern European countries where the sun might not be that consistent. ...

A lapis-blue linen jacket for summer

Summer clothing, particularly from Italian brands, often includes a lot of light, bright colours. These can be difficult to wear, particularly in northern European countries where the sun might not be that consistent. ...

Cloth - JacketsAugust 20th 2016

AW Bauer & Co – bespoke tailor, Stockholm

August 19th 2016

I don’t usually write about tailors unless I am trying them as a customer – it just feels like there’s a big part of the content missing. But one exception I’m happy to make is for young tailors,...

AW Bauer & Co – bespoke tailor, Stockholm

I don’t usually write about tailors unless I am trying them as a customer – it just feels like there’s a big part of the content missing. But one exception I’m happy to make is for young tailors,...

TailoringAugust 19th 2016

Richard James bespoke tailoring

August 12th 2016

Richard James are an interesting name in bespoke tailoring. Better known for ready-to-wear suits and various accessories, they’ve actually had a bespoke operation since they set up – in a small shop at 31 Sa...

Richard James bespoke tailoring

Richard James are an interesting name in bespoke tailoring. Better known for ready-to-wear suits and various accessories, they’ve actually had a bespoke operation since they set up – in a small shop at 31 Sa...

Jackets - TailoringAugust 12th 2016

Manning & Manning suit – with an Italian...

August 5th 2016

The Italian Background: an awkward but persistently useful phrase I coined back in 2008 to describe the tendency of Italians to wear blue shirts and navy ties under strongly coloured suits. Rather than the English alter...

Manning & Manning suit – with an Italian...

The Italian Background: an awkward but persistently useful phrase I coined back in 2008 to describe the tendency of Italians to wear blue shirts and navy ties under strongly coloured suits. Rather than the English alter...

Finding a tailor - Shirts and tiesAugust 5th 2016

Book review – The Suit: Form, Function and Style

August 3rd 2016

In the sixteenth century, a man commissioning a suit would largely do so through an agent, who would interact with several parties - of which the tailor was just one. They would talk to the cloth merchant, the button me...

Book review – The Suit: Form, Function and Style

In the sixteenth century, a man commissioning a suit would largely do so through an agent, who would interact with several parties - of which the tailor was just one. They would talk to the cloth merchant, the button me...

Suits - TailoringAugust 3rd 2016

Holiday snaps: Linen bomber, cotton trousers, espad...

August 1st 2016

A brief post today, with some pictures from holiday. Casual but still classic in cut and colour, and catering to the heat. First, above, 'Dani' espadrilles from La Portegna. I'm still in two minds about these, after a...

Holiday snaps: Linen bomber, cotton trousers, espad...

A brief post today, with some pictures from holiday. Casual but still classic in cut and colour, and catering to the heat. First, above, 'Dani' espadrilles from La Portegna. I'm still in two minds about these, after a...

Accessories - Casual jacketsAugust 1st 2016

Suit Style 4: Flattering the tall and the short

July 29th 2016

This is the fourth article in a series presenting a guide to buying tailoring. Following on from the previous articles on single and double-breasted suits, we turn our attention to body shape, and how different styles a...

Suit Style 4: Flattering the tall and the short

This is the fourth article in a series presenting a guide to buying tailoring. Following on from the previous articles on single and double-breasted suits, we turn our attention to body shape, and how different styles a...

Fit - SuitsJuly 29th 2016

Coarse vs fine cottons in tailoring

July 25th 2016

We covered the appeal of cotton as a tailoring material generally last week, but didn't talk about the different types of cottons. There are corduroys and moleskins of course, gabardines and seersucker. But a differenc...

Coarse vs fine cottons in tailoring

We covered the appeal of cotton as a tailoring material generally last week, but didn't talk about the different types of cottons. There are corduroys and moleskins of course, gabardines and seersucker. But a differenc...

Cloth - JacketsJuly 25th 2016

The appeal of the cotton suit – bespoke from ...

July 20th 2016

I've always found cotton very appealing for summer suits, but historically haven't had much luck with them. I had a navy one made by Choppin & Lodge, but the make was really too English and structured for the materi...

The appeal of the cotton suit – bespoke from ...

I've always found cotton very appealing for summer suits, but historically haven't had much luck with them. I had a navy one made by Choppin & Lodge, but the make was really too English and structured for the materi...

Cloth - SuitsJuly 20th 2016

Interview: Gregor Thissen, Scabal

July 8th 2016

A couple of months ago I sat down with Gregor Thissen, Executive Chairman of cloth merchant Scabal, in Brussels after a tour of the factory. You can read more about Scabal and that factory on my first post here. Perma...

Interview: Gregor Thissen, Scabal

A couple of months ago I sat down with Gregor Thissen, Executive Chairman of cloth merchant Scabal, in Brussels after a tour of the factory. You can read more about Scabal and that factory on my first post here. Perma...

Cloth - TailoringJuly 8th 2016

Dege & Skinner finished tobacco-linen suit

July 6th 2016

I wore this linen suit from Dege & Skinner for the first time while in Florence. The weather was hot, and airless, and for the past two days I had been wearing unstructured Neapolitan tailoring. The contrast was im...

Dege & Skinner finished tobacco-linen suit

I wore this linen suit from Dege & Skinner for the first time while in Florence. The weather was hot, and airless, and for the past two days I had been wearing unstructured Neapolitan tailoring. The contrast was im...

Suits - TailoringJuly 6th 2016