Ciro Zizolfi bespoke tweed jacket: Review

December 10th 2018

Now and again, a bespoke commission is almost seamless. At every fitting, you like the look of the jacket and almost nothing seems to be needed on the fit. Just as importantly, the tailor delivers what they say they will: the jacket is always ready ...

Ciro Zizolfi bespoke tweed jacket: Review

Now and again, a bespoke commission is almost seamless. At every fitting, you like the look of the jacket and almost nothing seems to be needed on the fit. Just as importantly, the tailor delivers what they say they wil...

Jackets - ShirtsDecember 10th 2018

Liverano & Liverano purple jacket: Style Break...

November 26th 2018

Following our last piece of bespoke tailoring to be analysed in this series – Ferdinando Caraceni in Milan – we now turn to the most famous of the Florentine tailors: Liverano & Liverano. Liverano has received such attenti...

Liverano & Liverano purple jacket: Style Break...

Following our last piece of bespoke tailoring to be analysed in this series – Ferdinando Caraceni in Milan – we now turn to the most famous of the Florentine tailors: Liverano & Liverano. Liverano has rec...

Jackets - TailorsNovember 26th 2018

Nicola Cornacchia: Bread and murals in Puglia

October 12th 2018

It’s easy to draw conclusions about a tailor from their surroundings. The big houses of Savile Row certainly benefit from this, in particular those with wonderful interiors like Huntsman or Anderson & Sheppard. But they can be misleadi...

Nicola Cornacchia: Bread and murals in Puglia

It’s easy to draw conclusions about a tailor from their surroundings. The big houses of Savile Row certainly benefit from this, in particular those with wonderful interiors like Huntsman or Anderson & Sheppard. Bu...

Suits - TailorsOctober 12th 2018

Charcoal donegal-tweed jacket – from Steven H...

October 8th 2018

Charcoal is a surprisingly useful colour in an odd jacket. Great with muted tones of tan, green or brown, it's also dark enough to go with lighter grey flannels. And charcoal is my favourite colour to wear with cream trousers. It tends to tone down ...

Charcoal donegal-tweed jacket – from Steven H...

Charcoal is a surprisingly useful colour in an odd jacket. Great with muted tones of tan, green or brown, it's also dark enough to go with lighter grey flannels. And charcoal is my favourite colour to wear with cream tr...

Jackets - StyleOctober 8th 2018

Sartoria Panico grey-flannel suit: Review

August 8th 2018

Apologies to those that had been waiting a while for coverage of this suit. It was finished in the Spring, but Japanese magazine Men’s Precious asked me to wait until it had been shot as part of a feature before publishing. The photographs her...

Sartoria Panico grey-flannel suit: Review

Apologies to those that had been waiting a while for coverage of this suit. It was finished in the Spring, but Japanese magazine Men’s Precious asked me to wait until it had been shot as part of a feature before publi...

Suits - TailorsAugust 8th 2018

Anderson & Sheppard two-button jacket: Style B...

June 25th 2018

This is the third in our Finest Tailors series breaking down the styles of the world’s finest tailors. Following on from Richard Anderson and Henry Poole, we now turn to Anderson & Sheppard. Now, Anderson & Sheppard is justly fa...

Anderson & Sheppard two-button jacket: Style B...

This is the third in our Finest Tailors series breaking down the styles of the world’s finest tailors. Following on from Richard Anderson and Henry Poole, we now turn to Anderson & Sheppard. Now, Anderson & She...

Jackets - TailorsJune 25th 2018

Henry Poole double-breasted suit: Style Breakdown

June 8th 2018

A nice thing about our Finest Tailors series is that, as we add more tailors to it, each becomes a reference for the next, making comparisons easier. This Henry Poole suit, then, makes an interesting comparison to the Richard Anderson tuxedo we fea...

Henry Poole double-breasted suit: Style Breakdown

  A nice thing about our Finest Tailors series is that, as we add more tailors to it, each becomes a reference for the next, making comparisons easier. This Henry Poole suit, then, makes an interesting comparison to the...

Suits - TailorsJune 8th 2018

Richard Anderson tuxedo: Style breakdown

May 25th 2018

This is the first in a series of articles looking back at suits I have had made by the world’s major tailors, and examining their style through a consistent set of parameters and images. For background and context, see the introduction here . H...

Richard Anderson tuxedo: Style breakdown

This is the first in a series of articles looking back at suits I have had made by the world’s major tailors, and examining their style through a consistent set of parameters and images. For background and context, see...

Black tie - OxfordMay 25th 2018

The Tailor Styles series

May 24th 2018

The reviews of bespoke suits I’ve written over the years haven’t always been the same. Some included more on the experience (particularly when it was bad); some focused on the fit; others were more about style or make. Their length and ...

The Tailor Styles series

  The reviews of bespoke suits I’ve written over the years haven’t always been the same. Some included more on the experience (particularly when it was bad); some focused on the fit; others were more about style or ...

Finding a tailor - StyleMay 24th 2018

Sartoria Pasinato: Progressive tailoring in Vicenza...

April 6th 2018

Sartoria Pasinato, in the pretty town of Vicenza in north-eastern Italy, is an interesting example of a progressive tailor that still retains bespoke traditions. Vicenza is industrial and wealthy, famous for its Palladian architecture and for the Ol...

Sartoria Pasinato: Progressive tailoring in Vicenza...

Sartoria Pasinato, in the pretty town of Vicenza in north-eastern Italy, is an interesting example of a progressive tailor that still retains bespoke traditions. Vicenza is industrial and wealthy, famous for its Palladi...

TailorsApril 6th 2018

Sartoria Panico fitting (and a roll neck for a long...

March 30th 2018

One of the less-discussed sides of Pitti Uomo is the number of tailors that set up in a hotel or appartment at the same time as the fair, in order to see customers. Although most visitors to Pitti are buyers from around the world, those buyers are o...

Sartoria Panico fitting (and a roll neck for a long...

One of the less-discussed sides of Pitti Uomo is the number of tailors that set up in a hotel or appartment at the same time as the fair, in order to see customers. Although most visitors to Pitti are buyers from aroun...

Suits - TailorsMarch 30th 2018

Sartoria Vestrucci charcoal-flannel suit: Review

March 28th 2018

Right. Let’s do this by first running through the Vestrucci style and cut, and then going into the more subjective areas of reaction and experience. The suit being discussed is a Holland & Sherry charcoal flannel that I had made over...

Sartoria Vestrucci charcoal-flannel suit: Review

Right. Let’s do this by first running through the Vestrucci style and cut, and then going into the more subjective areas of reaction and experience. The suit being discussed is a Holland & Sherry  charcoal fla...

Suits - TailoringMarch 28th 2018

Video: Sartoria Ciardi in conversation

March 21st 2018

This is the film of our small presentation with Sartoria Ciardi a couple of weeks ago - at Mark's Club in London. We had 25 readers in the audience, with Poppy Charles kindly translating, and the result was a nice, intimate-feeling event with the...

Video: Sartoria Ciardi in conversation

  This is the film of our small presentation with Sartoria Ciardi a couple of weeks ago - at Mark's Club in London.  We had 25 readers in the audience, with Poppy Charles kindly translating, and the result was a nic...

TailorsMarch 21st 2018

Musella Dembech double-breasted cotton suit –...

October 20th 2017

So how shall we review a suit? Let me count the ways. One: style. Still the most important thing, as much as we encourage men everywhere to care more about quality and fit. [Read my first post, with the background on Musella Dembech and its style, h...

Musella Dembech double-breasted cotton suit –...

So how shall we review a suit? Let me count the ways. One: style. Still the most important thing, as much as we encourage men everywhere to care more about quality and fit. [Read my first post, with the background on Mu...

Suits - TailoringOctober 20th 2017

Sartoria Panico – a last great of Neapolitan ...

October 18th 2017

On the wall of Sartoria Panico in Naples, there is a framed picture of our Tailoring Symposium in 2016. Antonio Panico stands there with other greats of modern bespoke such as Edward Sexton, Antonio Liverano and Lorenzo Cifonelli, basking in the sum...

Sartoria Panico – a last great of Neapolitan ...

On the wall of Sartoria Panico in Naples, there is a framed picture of our Tailoring Symposium in 2016. Antonio Panico stands there with other greats of modern bespoke such as Edward Sexton, Antonio Liverano and Lorenzo...

Suits - TailoringOctober 18th 2017

Dalcuore: Gigi on expansion, craft and young tailors

August 25th 2017

Gigi doesn’t normally talk much. The master cutter at Neapolitan tailors Dalcuore, he normally stands back, silently, as Damiano and Cristina do the talking. This is both his character and a result of speaking little English. It was nice to ha...

Dalcuore: Gigi on expansion, craft and young tailors

Gigi doesn’t normally talk much. The master cutter at Neapolitan tailors Dalcuore, he normally stands back, silently, as Damiano and Cristina do the talking. This is both his character and a result of speaking little ...

Jackets - SuitsAugust 25th 2017

Ettore de Cesare workshop, Naples

August 4th 2017

*For more on Ettore de Cesare, and examples of the pieces he has made for me, see original post here* The workshop of Ettore de Cesare is in Vomero, a residential neighbourhood on the hill behind central Naples. But he lives in the centre of town. E...

Ettore de Cesare workshop, Naples

*For more on Ettore de Cesare, and examples of the pieces he has made for me, see original post here* The workshop of Ettore de Cesare is in Vomero, a residential neighbourhood on the hill behind central Naples. But ...

Jackets - OvercoatsAugust 4th 2017

The tailors I have known

August 30th 2016

This post was originally written in 2012, following a request from a reader. It was a breakdown of all the tailors I have tried, split into different countries. I have endeavoured to update it now, bringing the list and experiences up to date ...

The tailors I have known

    This post was originally written in 2012, following a request from a reader. It was a breakdown of all the tailors I have tried, split into different countries.    I have endeavoured to update it now, bringing th...

TailorsAugust 30th 2016

Manning & Manning bespoke tailoring

April 25th 2016

Earlier this year I started a bespoke summer suit with tailors Manning & Manning. They are a small operation comprising old Row cutter Bryan Manning (above) and his son, with the making outsourced to various coatmakers and trouser makers. ...

Manning & Manning bespoke tailoring

   Earlier this year I started a bespoke summer suit with tailors Manning & Manning. They are a small operation comprising old Row cutter Bryan Manning (above) and his son, with the making outsourced to various coa...

Suits - TailoringApril 25th 2016

Whitcomb & Shaftesbury visit the US

March 29th 2016

Whitcomb & Shaftesbury, the fabulously good value tailor I have written about recently, visit the US 5-6 times a year. They will be there next in a couple of weeks – in New York for three days and then Los Angeles for one. The ...

Whitcomb & Shaftesbury visit the US

   Whitcomb & Shaftesbury, the fabulously good value tailor I have written about recently, visit the US 5-6 times a year.  They will be there next in a couple of weeks – in New York for three days and then L...

TailorsMarch 29th 2016

Whitcomb & Shaftesbury final suit – grea...

February 10th 2016

Back in October there was a lot of interest around my post on the bespoke service at Whitcomb & Shaftesbury. Their ‘classic bespoke’ service, which involves cutting the suit in London (by a very experienced Row cutter), and the...

Whitcomb & Shaftesbury final suit – grea...

   Back in October there was a lot of interest around my post on the bespoke service at Whitcomb & Shaftesbury. Their ‘classic bespoke’ service, which involves cutting the suit in London (by a very experienced ...

Suits - TailoringFebruary 10th 2016

Sartoria Dalcuore bespoke, brown high-twist suit

February 8th 2016

*London trunk show details: February 18-20 info@sartoriadalcuore.com +393458404232 32 Royal Crescent, London W11, UK* It’s been interesting to watch in recent years how more and more small tailors have come to prominence, getting coverage an...

Sartoria Dalcuore bespoke, brown high-twist suit

   *London trunk show details: February 18-20 info@sartoriadalcuore.com +393458404232 32 Royal Crescent, London W11, UK* It’s been interesting to watch in recent years how more and more small tailors have come to pro...

Suits - TailoringFebruary 8th 2016

Whitcomb & Shaftesbury – first fitting

December 11th 2015

I recently had the basted fitting for my two suits from Whitcomb & Shaftesbury – the tailor that runs a workshop in India but has all the suits cut by the same person London. They had offered to make me two suits – on...

Whitcomb & Shaftesbury – first fitting

    I recently had the basted fitting for my two suits from Whitcomb & Shaftesbury – the tailor that runs a workshop in India but has all the suits cut by the same person London.  They had offered to make m...

TailorsDecember 11th 2015

Edward Sexton flannel – When to wear a suit

December 7th 2015

Apparently people are becoming more casual. There are now such things as luxury jogging bottoms. But I’ll put my money on the fact that – even as the fashion wheel turns – the suit will remain the formal attire of cho...

Edward Sexton flannel – When to wear a suit

   Apparently people are becoming more casual. There are now such things as luxury jogging bottoms. But I’ll put my money on the fact that – even as the fashion wheel turns – the suit will remain the ...

Style - SuitsDecember 7th 2015

Final Camps de Luca grey suit

November 23rd 2015

My apologies to Philip, who wrote recently that he’s been waiting for my review of this Camps de Luca suit. And to anyone else. The suit was completed a few months ago and we managed to take some photographs last month. But books, polos ...

Final Camps de Luca grey suit

  My apologies to Philip, who wrote recently that he’s been waiting for my review of this Camps de Luca suit. And to anyone else.  The suit was completed a few months ago and we managed to take some photographs...

Suits - TailoringNovember 23rd 2015