Whitcomb & Shaftesbury final suit – grea...

February 10th 2016

Back in October there was a lot of interest around my post on the bespoke service at Whitcomb & Shaftesbury. Their ‘classic bespoke’ service, which involves cutting the suit in London (by a very experienced Row cutter), and the...

Whitcomb & Shaftesbury final suit – grea...

   Back in October there was a lot of interest around my post on the bespoke service at Whitcomb & Shaftesbury. Their ‘classic bespoke’ service, which involves cutting the suit in London (by a very experienced ...

Suits - TailoringFebruary 10th 2016

Sartoria Dalcuore bespoke, brown high-twist suit

February 8th 2016

*London trunk show details: February 18-20 info@sartoriadalcuore.com +393458404232 32 Royal Crescent, London W11, UK* It’s been interesting to watch in recent years how more and more small tailors have come to prominence, getting coverage an...

Sartoria Dalcuore bespoke, brown high-twist suit

   *London trunk show details: February 18-20 info@sartoriadalcuore.com +393458404232 32 Royal Crescent, London W11, UK* It’s been interesting to watch in recent years how more and more small tailors have come to pro...

Suits - TailoringFebruary 8th 2016

Whitcomb & Shaftesbury – first fitting

December 11th 2015

I recently had the basted fitting for my two suits from Whitcomb & Shaftesbury – the tailor that runs a workshop in India but has all the suits cut by the same person London. They had offered to make me two suits – on...

Whitcomb & Shaftesbury – first fitting

    I recently had the basted fitting for my two suits from Whitcomb & Shaftesbury – the tailor that runs a workshop in India but has all the suits cut by the same person London.  They had offered to make m...

TailorsDecember 11th 2015

Edward Sexton flannel – When to wear a suit

December 7th 2015

Apparently people are becoming more casual. There are now such things as luxury jogging bottoms. But I’ll put my money on the fact that – even as the fashion wheel turns – the suit will remain the formal attire of cho...

Edward Sexton flannel – When to wear a suit

   Apparently people are becoming more casual. There are now such things as luxury jogging bottoms. But I’ll put my money on the fact that – even as the fashion wheel turns – the suit will remain the ...

Style - SuitsDecember 7th 2015

Final Camps de Luca grey suit

November 23rd 2015

My apologies to Philip, who wrote recently that he’s been waiting for my review of this Camps de Luca suit. And to anyone else. The suit was completed a few months ago and we managed to take some photographs last month. But books, polos ...

Final Camps de Luca grey suit

  My apologies to Philip, who wrote recently that he’s been waiting for my review of this Camps de Luca suit. And to anyone else.  The suit was completed a few months ago and we managed to take some photographs...

Suits - TailoringNovember 23rd 2015

Whitcomb & Shaftesbury – foreign bespoke

October 19th 2015

If you’re looking for a good bespoke suit in London, there aren’t many English options between £1000 and £3000 or so. Most are closer to the £1000 make and finish, but simply charge twice as much. An interesting ...

Whitcomb & Shaftesbury – foreign bespoke

If you’re looking for a good bespoke suit in London, there aren’t many English options between £1000 and £3000 or so. Most are closer to the £1000 make and finish, but simply charge twice as much. An inter...

TailorsOctober 19th 2015

Steven Hitchcock fitting: Let the tailor cut his style

September 21st 2015

I return to the drape style with recognisable regularity. For those without a big chest – and not that bothered about big, wide shoulders – it is a very flattering shape. Many also forget how slim it is usually cut through the ...

Steven Hitchcock fitting: Let the tailor cut his style

   I return to the drape style with recognisable regularity. For those without a big chest – and not that bothered about big, wide shoulders – it is a very flattering shape. Many also forget how slim it is ...

Tailoring - TailorsSeptember 21st 2015

House styles and difficult customers: The Tailoring...

August 19th 2015

Edward Sexton Before the public part of Tailoring Symposium in June, we all gathered next to the pool at the Four Seasons to have a chat about tailoring and its future, with The Rake busily making a video of the event in the background. This was ...

House styles and difficult customers: The Tailoring...

Edward Sexton    Before the public part of Tailoring Symposium in June, we all gathered next to the pool at the Four Seasons to have a chat about tailoring and its future, with The Rake busily making a video of the eve...

TailorsAugust 19th 2015

Ferdinando Caraceni bespoke cashmere jacket

July 3rd 2015

My final jacket from Ferdinando Caraceni in Milan is superb in many ways, including fit, make and finish. The style, however, is interesting and not necessarily what I expected. I started this project last year with Nicoletta Caraceni, the daughte...

Ferdinando Caraceni bespoke cashmere jacket

   My final jacket from Ferdinando Caraceni in Milan is superb in many ways, including fit, make and finish. The style, however, is interesting and not necessarily what I expected. I started this project last year with...

Jackets - TailoringJuly 3rd 2015

Tailoring Symposium: the outfits

June 22nd 2015

* Update: Going by the ‘likes’ on Instagram, the outfits currently rank as: Anderson & Sheppard Cifonelli Liverano Edward Sexton Panico Richard Anderson (Do you agree? Join in!) * These are the si...

Tailoring Symposium: the outfits

  *    Update: Going by the ‘likes’ on Instagram, the outfits currently rank as: Anderson & Sheppard  Cifonelli  Liverano  Edward Sexton  Panico  Richard Anderson            (Do you agree? J...

TailorsJune 22nd 2015

The Tailoring Symposium: six greats in one room

June 19th 2015

     “Edward, Edward,” said Antonio Panico, in a conspiratorial whisper. “What was it like to fit Mick Jagger?” Just like the Shoemakers Symposium we ran in January, the biggest pleas...

The Tailoring Symposium: six greats in one room

     “Edward, Edward,” said Antonio Panico, in a conspiratorial whisper. “What was it like to fit Mick Jagger?” Just like the Shoemakers Symposium we ran in January, the biggest ple...

TailorsJune 19th 2015

Almost ready – suits being made for our Tailo...

June 12th 2015

At our Tailoring Symposium next week in Florence, we have six of the greatest tailors in the world presenting their styles to the audience of press and buyers: Panico, Cifonelli, Edward Sexton, Richard Anderson, Liverano & Liverano, and An...

Almost ready – suits being made for our Tailo...

  At our  Tailoring Symposium next week in Florence, we have six of the greatest tailors in the world presenting their styles to the audience of press and buyers: Panico, Cifonelli, Edward Sexton, Richard Anderson, Li...

Suits - TailoringJune 12th 2015

Edward Sexton grey flannel suit

June 3rd 2015

My apologies to readers that have been waiting for these shots of the Edward Sexton suit. Books, corrupted photos and other things seemed to consistently get in the way. I’ve always wanted a double-breasted mid-grey flannel. I had one m...

Edward Sexton grey flannel suit

  My apologies to readers that have been waiting for these shots of the  Edward Sexton suit. Books, corrupted photos and other things seemed to consistently get in the way.  I’ve always wanted a double-breasted ...

Suits - TailoringJune 3rd 2015

Hopsack blazer: the perfect summer jacket

May 29th 2015

This Caliendo hopsack blazer was completed earlier in the year and is now fast becoming the most useful item in my wardrobe. Just like the Solito cashmere blazer I had made for Autumn/Winter last year, it is thrown on with everything: with a shirt ...

Hopsack blazer: the perfect summer jacket

  This Caliendo hopsack blazer was completed earlier in the year and is now fast becoming the most useful item in my wardrobe. Just like the Solito cashmere blazer I had made for Autumn/Winter last year, it is thrown on...

Jackets - TailoringMay 29th 2015

Savile Row’s driving jackets for Bentley

May 18th 2015

  Bespoke driving jackets designed by Dege & Skinner, Henry Poole, Gieves & Hawkes and Huntsman. Which is your favourite? ( Worth expanding to full screen)

Savile Row’s driving jackets for Bentley

  Bespoke driving jackets designed by Dege & Skinner, Henry Poole, Gieves & Hawkes and Huntsman.  Which is your favourite? ( Worth expanding to full screen)...

Jackets - TailoringMay 18th 2015

Herringbone jacket fitting – Ferdinando Caraceni

May 15th 2015

At the Milan event last month I had my final fitting on the cashmere herringbone jacket being made by Ferdinando Caraceni. The more I get to know Nicoletta – Ferdinando’s daughter, although not a cutter unlike her father ...

Herringbone jacket fitting – Ferdinando Caraceni

  At the Milan event last month I had my final fitting on the cashmere herringbone jacket being made by Ferdinando Caraceni. The more I get to know Nicoletta – Ferdinando’s daughter, although not a cutter un...

Jackets - TailoringMay 15th 2015

Huntsman hires Campbell Carey and Robert Bailey

April 3rd 2015

It was announced today that Huntsman has hired Campbell Carey as the new head cutter, to try and fill the hole left by Pat Murphy, who officially leaves this month for Davies & Son. Pat worked for many years at Davies before joining Huntsma...

Huntsman hires Campbell Carey and Robert Bailey

  It was announced today that Huntsman has hired Campbell Carey as the new head cutter, to try and fill the hole left by Pat Murphy, who officially leaves this month for Davies & Son. Pat worked for many years at Da...

TailorsApril 3rd 2015

A farewell to Camps de Luca on Place de la Madeleine

March 13th 2015

Parisian tailors Camps de Luca are moving premises, after 50 years overlooking Place de la Madeleine. Their new home is at 16 Rue de la Paix, near to Place Vendome. To say goodbye, they put together this video showing the stages of bespoke suit ma...

A farewell to Camps de Luca on Place de la Madeleine

  Parisian tailors Camps de Luca are moving premises, after 50 years overlooking Place de la Madeleine. Their new home is at 16 Rue de la Paix, near to Place Vendome.  To say goodbye, they put together this video sho...

TailorsMarch 13th 2015

How many tailors do you need?

February 23rd 2015

A few weeks ago, a reader made the point that all my adventures with bespoke tailors could give the impression that this is the optimum way to build a wardrobe. That’s certainly not the case. The process of bespoke tailoring is about buildi...

How many tailors do you need?

A few weeks ago, a reader made the point that all my adventures with bespoke tailors could give the impression that this is the optimum way to build a wardrobe. That’s certainly not the case. The process of bespoke...

TailorsFebruary 23rd 2015

Reflections on bespoke 2: J Panther, Tom Davies and...

February 18th 2015

My last ‘reflections on bespoke’ post back in January was very popular. Readers seemed to respond to the assessment of bespoke commissions with the wisdom of hindsight, and I have to say I sympathise. Here, then, are five more, ...

Reflections on bespoke 2: J Panther, Tom Davies and...

  My last ‘reflections on bespoke’ post back in January was very popular. Readers seemed to respond to the assessment of bespoke commissions with the wisdom of hindsight, and I have to say I sympathise. Her...

Accessories - BagsFebruary 18th 2015

Calvo de Mora donegal jacket

February 4th 2015

This is the third of the commissions I made with Spanish tailors earlier last year. It is a lightweight donegal jacket, from Calvo de Mora. It is probably the best of the three, and the most expensive. Funny how those things often go together.* Th...

Calvo de Mora donegal jacket

   This is the third of the commissions I made with Spanish tailors earlier last year. It is a lightweight donegal jacket, from Calvo de Mora. It is probably the best of the three, and the most expensive. Funny how tho...

Jackets - TailoringFebruary 4th 2015

Cifonelli double-breasted overcoat

January 26th 2015

For the reader who commented that my pieces on Cifonelli tend towards the emotional, I apologise in advance. This is a beautiful, beautiful coat, and one of the finest things I have ever worn. Right, that’s over. Down to details. This is...

Cifonelli double-breasted overcoat

   For the reader who commented that my pieces on Cifonelli tend towards the emotional, I apologise in advance. This is a beautiful, beautiful coat, and one of the finest things I have ever worn. Right, that’s ov...

Overcoats - TailoringJanuary 26th 2015

Reillo, Madrid: Bespoke cotton suit

January 5th 2015

This suit is from Jose Maria Reilo, the second of the three Spanish tailors I commissioned from in 2014. The make is good, although there are one or two issues with the fit that I’ll come to in a moment. The suit is green cotton gabardine &nd...

Reillo, Madrid: Bespoke cotton suit

  This suit is from Jose Maria Reilo, the second of the three Spanish tailors I commissioned from in 2014. The make is good, although there are one or two issues with the fit that I’ll come to in a moment. The suit is...

Style - SuitsJanuary 5th 2015

Dunhill bespoke

December 12th 2014

Martin Nicholls, the cutter at Dunhill in London, has had a fascinating career. Trained at Huntsman under Hammick and Hall, he worked at Gieves and Norton’s, headed up the bespoke department at Harrod’s, and launched Hackett&...

Dunhill bespoke

  Martin Nicholls, the cutter at Dunhill in London, has had a fascinating career. Trained at Huntsman under Hammick and Hall, he worked at Gieves and Norton’s, headed up the bespoke department at Harrod’s, a...

TailorsDecember 12th 2014

Langa coming to London

November 11th 2014

I’m pleased to say that Spanish tailors Langa will be coming to London for the first time later this month, setting up shop in Holland & Sherry on Savile Row on November 24th and 25th. The cutter Joaquin Fernandez made me the tob...

Langa coming to London

  I’m pleased to say that Spanish tailors Langa will be coming to London for the first time later this month, setting up shop in Holland & Sherry on Savile Row on November 24th and 25th.  The cutter Joaquin F...

TailorsNovember 11th 2014