Your next sports jacket: Oatmeal cashmere from Elia Caliendo

Read MoreApr 13th 2016

  This pale, oatmeal-coloured cashmere is my new favourite sports-jacket material.When men are picking colours for sports jackets, their second choice (after the obviousness of navy) is usually grey. Which can be great, in: a rougher, preppy herrin...

Your next sports jacket: Oatmeal cashmere from Elia Caliendo

  This pale, oatmeal-coloured cashmere is my new favourite sports-jacket material.When men are picking colours for sports jackets, their second choice (after the obviousness of navy) is usually grey. Which can be great, in: a rougher, preppy herrin...

Apr 13th 2016

The appeal of the cotton suit - bespoke from Elia Caliendo

Read MoreJul 20th 2016

I've always found cotton very appealing for summer suits, but historically haven't had much luck with them.I had a navy one made by Choppin & Lodge, but the make was really too English and structured for the material (my fault, not theirs). And...

The appeal of the cotton suit - bespoke from Elia Caliendo

I've always found cotton very appealing for summer suits, but historically haven't had much luck with them.I had a navy one made by Choppin & Lodge, but the make was really too English and structured for the material (my fault, not theirs). And...

Jul 20th 2016

Neapolitan tweed jacket - Elia Caliendo

Read MoreFeb 26th 2014

This Neapolitan tweed jacket – made recently for me by Elia Caliendo – is perhaps the perfect update of an English classic.  Tweed is a wonderful material – tough, soft and highly wind- and water-resistant. It makes a great jacket for the m...

Neapolitan tweed jacket - Elia Caliendo

This Neapolitan tweed jacket – made recently for me by Elia Caliendo – is perhaps the perfect update of an English classic.  Tweed is a wonderful material – tough, soft and highly wind- and water-resistant. It makes a great jacket for the m...

Feb 26th 2014

Elia Caliendo jacket

Read MoreJul 13th 2012

Pictured at the MTBA party last week, this is the finished jacket from Neapolitan tailor Elia Caliendo. Readers of The Rake online will have read previous posts on Elia, looking at both the man himself and an analysis of the inside of the jacket. Alt...

Elia Caliendo jacket

Pictured at the MTBA party last week, this is the finished jacket from Neapolitan tailor Elia Caliendo. Readers of The Rake online will have read previous posts on Elia, looking at both the man himself and an analysis of the inside of the jacket. Alt...

Jul 13th 2012

Elia Caliendo: tweed jacket

Read MoreOct 19th 2012

After months of indecision, I finally decided to have my length of Permanent Style tweed made up by Elia Caliendo in Naples. Every time I have been to Graham Browne recently, I see another length being made up for a reader. It looks beautiful, such a...

Elia Caliendo: tweed jacket

After months of indecision, I finally decided to have my length of Permanent Style tweed made up by Elia Caliendo in Naples. Every time I have been to Graham Browne recently, I see another length being made up for a reader. It looks beautiful, such a...

Oct 19th 2012

JM Weston, Elia Caliendo and Globe-Trotter

Read MoreJun 22nd 2012

Some hopefully enlightening and entertaining posts on The Rake, including the French chestnut tanneries of JM Weston (above), the cute patch pockets of Elia Caliendo (below) and the making of a Globe-Trotter suitcase.

JM Weston, Elia Caliendo and Globe-Trotter

Some hopefully enlightening and entertaining posts on The Rake, including the French chestnut tanneries of JM Weston (above), the cute patch pockets of Elia Caliendo (below) and the making of a Globe-Trotter suitcase.

Jun 22nd 2012

Reader profile: Ben

Read MoreDec 10th 2021

I’ve known Ben for a long time now. He worked round the corner from me during my journalism days, and we were both customers of visiting artisans like Elia Caliendo and Simone Abbarchi. We even did a shoot together for Elia years ago. Ben and I hav...

Reader profile: Ben

I’ve known Ben for a long time now. He worked round the corner from me during my journalism days, and we were both customers of visiting artisans like Elia Caliendo and Simone Abbarchi. We even did a shoot together for Elia years ago. Ben and I hav...

Dec 10th 2021

How to wear a cream jacket

Read MoreJun 24th 2020

  A cream jacket is more useful than you might think.  Certainly, I've found myself using this one from Jean-Manuel Moreau more than I expected since I received it earlier in the year.   This post describes, and illustrates, three ...

How to wear a cream jacket

  A cream jacket is more useful than you might think.  Certainly, I've found myself using this one from Jean-Manuel Moreau more than I expected since I received it earlier in the year.   This post describes, and illustrates, three ...

Jun 24th 2020

Introducing: PS Harris Tweed

Read MoreApr 23rd 2021

My favourite Harris Tweed has not been available for a few years now.  Originally offered by Holland & Sherry, I was such a fan that I used it for one of my favourite tweed jackets (from Elia Caliendo, below), a fantastic ulster coat from Livera...

Introducing: PS Harris Tweed

My favourite Harris Tweed has not been available for a few years now.  Originally offered by Holland & Sherry, I was such a fan that I used it for one of my favourite tweed jackets (from Elia Caliendo, below), a fantastic ulster coat from Livera...

Apr 23rd 2021

The complete capsule: Prices, budgets and timelines

Read MoreJul 13th 2020

Our ‘complete capsule’ article last month went down particularly well with readers. Setting out a concentrated, versatile wardrobe, I think it provided both a good starting point for new readers and a way for older ones to realise gaps in their...

The complete capsule: Prices, budgets and timelines

Our ‘complete capsule’ article last month went down particularly well with readers. Setting out a concentrated, versatile wardrobe, I think it provided both a good starting point for new readers and a way for older ones to realise gaps in their...

Jul 13th 2020

The (55) bespoke tailors I have known

Read MoreJun 3rd 2020

This post was originally written in 2012: a breakdown of all the tailors I have tried personally (rather than just written about), split into different countries. It was updated in 2016, and I have updated it again now in 2020, adding a further 1...

The (55) bespoke tailors I have known

This post was originally written in 2012: a breakdown of all the tailors I have tried personally (rather than just written about), split into different countries. It was updated in 2016, and I have updated it again now in 2020, adding a further 1...

Jun 3rd 2020

Summer smart/casual: Three looks, three levels of formality

Read MoreMay 29th 2020

Last week I explained why I find the knit polo shirt to be such a fundamental part of my summer wardrobe.  This week, I’m using that polo and a pair of cream linen trousers as the basis for three different looks - three different ways of doing ...

Summer smart/casual: Three looks, three levels of formality

Last week I explained why I find the knit polo shirt to be such a fundamental part of my summer wardrobe.  This week, I’m using that polo and a pair of cream linen trousers as the basis for three different looks - three different ways of doing ...

May 29th 2020

Video question: How can I dress up without a suit?

Read MoreMay 6th 2020

One of the things I enjoy most about Permanent Style is the comments from readers.  It’s like each article is a new thread in a forum, with subject raised and then comments, experiences and questions all following, vastly enriching the article?...

Video question: How can I dress up without a suit?

One of the things I enjoy most about Permanent Style is the comments from readers.  It’s like each article is a new thread in a forum, with subject raised and then comments, experiences and questions all following, vastly enriching the article?...

May 6th 2020

Esquire names me one of the 10 most influential of 2016

Read MoreDec 6th 2016

I have been included in a list of the Top 10 most influential men in fashion by Esquire. Which is nice. You can read the full article and a short interview here. I dislike the term 'influencer' - frankly if that's how you define yourself, there ca...

Esquire names me one of the 10 most influential of 2016

I have been included in a list of the Top 10 most influential men in fashion by Esquire. Which is nice. You can read the full article and a short interview here. I dislike the term 'influencer' - frankly if that's how you define yourself, there ca...

Dec 6th 2016

Two reader stories: Starting and building a wardrobe

Read MoreJan 21st 2019

In recent years I’ve done an increasing amount of personal consultancy, meeting readers in person to answer their questions rather than just here on the website. I don’t really advertise it because I don’t have much capacity, and most peopl...

Two reader stories: Starting and building a wardrobe

In recent years I’ve done an increasing amount of personal consultancy, meeting readers in person to answer their questions rather than just here on the website. I don’t really advertise it because I don’t have much capacity, and most peopl...

Jan 21st 2019

Which sports-jacket office are you?

Read MoreJun 5th 2019

One of the most popular posts we’ve ever written on Permanent Style was ‘Which office are you?’, back in February 2016. It showed a spectrum of outfits from T-shirt and jeans, through knitwear and flannels, up to a jacket and tie - with just on...

Which sports-jacket office are you?

One of the most popular posts we’ve ever written on Permanent Style was ‘Which office are you?’, back in February 2016. It showed a spectrum of outfits from T-shirt and jeans, through knitwear and flannels, up to a jacket and tie - with just on...

Jun 5th 2019

Introducing: The PS Bridge Coat

Read MoreOct 31st 2018

*For updates and stock please see the shop page* Of all the things I’ve developed or helped develop over the past few years, the PS Trench Coat was one of the most satisfying. That was partly because it seemed to fill a particular niche for peopl...

Introducing: The PS Bridge Coat

*For updates and stock please see the shop page* Of all the things I’ve developed or helped develop over the past few years, the PS Trench Coat was one of the most satisfying. That was partly because it seemed to fill a particular niche for peopl...

Oct 31st 2018

Escorial jacket: The modernity of muted colours

Read MoreApr 4th 2016

  There are many ways in which you can make a sartorial outfit look younger or more modern. Extremes are always wrong: very short jackets, big puffy shoulders. They just look trendy, for a bit. But aside from the extremes, I would argue proportion...

Escorial jacket: The modernity of muted colours

  There are many ways in which you can make a sartorial outfit look younger or more modern. Extremes are always wrong: very short jackets, big puffy shoulders. They just look trendy, for a bit. But aside from the extremes, I would argue proportion...

Apr 4th 2016

Friday Polos back in stock - with new Olive

Read MoreApr 26th 2018

The much-loved Friday Polos, which I design and produce with shirtmaker Luca Avitabile in Naples, are back in stock. Thank you to everyone that has been waiting so patiently. As per usual, we have produced them in four colours. However, as I know t...

Friday Polos back in stock - with new Olive

The much-loved Friday Polos, which I design and produce with shirtmaker Luca Avitabile in Naples, are back in stock. Thank you to everyone that has been waiting so patiently. As per usual, we have produced them in four colours. However, as I know t...

Apr 26th 2018

Liverano & Liverano ulster coat: Review

Read MoreJan 5th 2018

I’ve wanted a Liverano ulster coat for a long time. Ever since I first saw one on Ethan Newton I think, and subsequently reinforced by seeing versions on Jeff Hilliard (now at Mr Porter) and others. Liverano is very expensive, however, and it w...

Liverano & Liverano ulster coat: Review

I’ve wanted a Liverano ulster coat for a long time. Ever since I first saw one on Ethan Newton I think, and subsequently reinforced by seeing versions on Jeff Hilliard (now at Mr Porter) and others. Liverano is very expensive, however, and it w...

Jan 5th 2018

A hot, formal evening in Florence

Read MoreJul 27th 2015

  Four things contribute most to the formality of an outfit: shine, darkness, contrast and desaturation.We see all four of them in formal outfits such as black tie. Dark black or midnight blue is contrasted against stark white. There is virtually n...

A hot, formal evening in Florence

  Four things contribute most to the formality of an outfit: shine, darkness, contrast and desaturation.We see all four of them in formal outfits such as black tie. Dark black or midnight blue is contrasted against stark white. There is virtually n...

Jul 27th 2015

Bespoke commissions - What I should and shouldn't have

Read MoreSep 20th 2017

Thank you everyone that responded to my ‘You are the interviewer’ post a couple of weeks ago. The number of variety of questions was staggering, and I will try to answer as many as I can over the coming weeks. It may take time, but I would ra...

Bespoke commissions - What I should and shouldn't have

Thank you everyone that responded to my ‘You are the interviewer’ post a couple of weeks ago. The number of variety of questions was staggering, and I will try to answer as many as I can over the coming weeks. It may take time, but I would ra...

Sep 20th 2017

Postcard from Begg - teasels and cream cashmere

Read MoreNov 4th 2014

 One of the interesting tensions in a factory visit is the way machinery is portrayed. Some manufacturers will boast of their old, traditional methods, when in fact the same thing could be done, quicker, by a newer machine - they just can't afford i...

Postcard from Begg - teasels and cream cashmere

 One of the interesting tensions in a factory visit is the way machinery is portrayed. Some manufacturers will boast of their old, traditional methods, when in fact the same thing could be done, quicker, by a newer machine - they just can't afford i...

Nov 4th 2014

The guide to jacketings

Read MoreOct 17th 2016

What makes a cloth suitable for a jacket, but not for a suit?This is a question I know many readers struggle with, particularly as offices become more casual. Without the safety of a dark suit and dark shoes, what should a man wear? Why doesn’t the...

The guide to jacketings

What makes a cloth suitable for a jacket, but not for a suit?This is a question I know many readers struggle with, particularly as offices become more casual. Without the safety of a dark suit and dark shoes, what should a man wear? Why doesn’t the...

Oct 17th 2016

Naples: A sartorial shopping guide

Read MoreJul 12th 2017

Naples has the biggest concentration of high-end handmade menswear in the world. Although not so much for shoes, for tailoring and shirtmaking this is the motherlode, with hundreds of tailors in the city and surrounding region, and thousands workin...

Naples: A sartorial shopping guide

Naples has the biggest concentration of high-end handmade menswear in the world. Although not so much for shoes, for tailoring and shirtmaking this is the motherlode, with hundreds of tailors in the city and surrounding region, and thousands workin...

Jul 12th 2017