Ferdinando Caraceni: central Italian tailoring

Read MoreJun 18th 2014

  Back in February I began working on a jacket project with Nicoletta Caraceni, of Ferdinando Caraceni in Milan. There are, as you know, several tailors with the name Caraceni in Italy. They all stem from Domenico Caraceni, the founding father, a...

Ferdinando Caraceni: central Italian tailoring

  Back in February I began working on a jacket project with Nicoletta Caraceni, of Ferdinando Caraceni in Milan. There are, as you know, several tailors with the name Caraceni in Italy. They all stem from Domenico Caraceni, the founding father, a...

Jun 18th 2014

Ferdinando Caraceni herringbone suit: Style breakdown

Read MoreOct 26th 2018

Following on from French bespoke style with Camps de Luca, we now arrive in Milan with Ferdinando Caraceni. Milanese tailoring has quite a distinct style, with light structure overall but a strong shoulder. So while tailors from Milan will talk a...

Ferdinando Caraceni herringbone suit: Style breakdown

Following on from French bespoke style with Camps de Luca, we now arrive in Milan with Ferdinando Caraceni. Milanese tailoring has quite a distinct style, with light structure overall but a strong shoulder. So while tailors from Milan will talk a...

Oct 26th 2018

Ferdinando Caraceni bespoke cashmere jacket

Read MoreJul 3rd 2015

   My final jacket from Ferdinando Caraceni in Milan is superb in many ways, including fit, make and finish. The style, however, is interesting and not necessarily what I expected. I started this project last year with Nicoletta Caraceni, the dau...

Ferdinando Caraceni bespoke cashmere jacket

   My final jacket from Ferdinando Caraceni in Milan is superb in many ways, including fit, make and finish. The style, however, is interesting and not necessarily what I expected. I started this project last year with Nicoletta Caraceni, the dau...

Jul 3rd 2015

Herringbone jacket fitting - Ferdinando Caraceni

Read MoreMay 15th 2015

  At the Milan event last month I had my final fitting on the cashmere herringbone jacket being made by Ferdinando Caraceni. The more I get to know Nicoletta - Ferdinando's daughter, although not a cutter unlike her father - the more impressed I a...

Herringbone jacket fitting - Ferdinando Caraceni

  At the Milan event last month I had my final fitting on the cashmere herringbone jacket being made by Ferdinando Caraceni. The more I get to know Nicoletta - Ferdinando's daughter, although not a cutter unlike her father - the more impressed I a...

May 15th 2015

Ferdinando Caraceni: jacket fitting

Read MoreJul 14th 2014

  When I was in Milan two weeks ago I had a first and second fitting with Ferdinando Caraceni in a day. This isn’t something that all tailors are happy doing, but for some such as Caraceni – which has a lot of foreign clients hoping to have su...

Ferdinando Caraceni: jacket fitting

  When I was in Milan two weeks ago I had a first and second fitting with Ferdinando Caraceni in a day. This isn’t something that all tailors are happy doing, but for some such as Caraceni – which has a lot of foreign clients hoping to have su...

Jul 14th 2014

Ferdinando Caraceni double-breasted cotton jacket

Read MoreOct 10th 2016

This is my final cotton jacket from Ferdinando Caraceni - which fortunately I received a few weeks ago and was therefore able to wear a fair bit before the weather turned. It is obvious even now that this is a piece that will wear in beautifully. As ...

Ferdinando Caraceni double-breasted cotton jacket

This is my final cotton jacket from Ferdinando Caraceni - which fortunately I received a few weeks ago and was therefore able to wear a fair bit before the weather turned. It is obvious even now that this is a piece that will wear in beautifully. As ...

Oct 10th 2016

Tommy & Giulio Caraceni: Modernising the Roman tailor

Read MoreSep 16th 2022

Tommy e Giulio Caraceni is one of the great tailors in Italy, but it’s fair to say they’re in a process of transition.  The shop is run by Andrea Caraceni, grandson of Tommy. His father retired last year, and now when in the shop you’re greete...

Tommy & Giulio Caraceni: Modernising the Roman tailor

Tommy e Giulio Caraceni is one of the great tailors in Italy, but it’s fair to say they’re in a process of transition.  The shop is run by Andrea Caraceni, grandson of Tommy. His father retired last year, and now when in the shop you’re greete...

Sep 16th 2022

Reader Profile: Andrew

Read MoreOct 27th 2021

This is the third in our series of articles meeting, and questioning, Permanent Style readers. The first profiled Manish, who enthused about Russian watches and recommended that readers should start building a wardrobe with good trousers. And the sec...

Reader Profile: Andrew

This is the third in our series of articles meeting, and questioning, Permanent Style readers. The first profiled Manish, who enthused about Russian watches and recommended that readers should start building a wardrobe with good trousers. And the sec...

Oct 27th 2021

Tailoring for travelling: tough, comfortable, plain

Read MoreAug 29th 2022

In our recent articles on menswear destinations in Rome, a couple of readers asked about the outfit I was wearing for beating around the hot city.  The individual pieces should be pretty familiar:  cotton double-breasted jacket from Ferdinando Car...

Tailoring for travelling: tough, comfortable, plain

In our recent articles on menswear destinations in Rome, a couple of readers asked about the outfit I was wearing for beating around the hot city.  The individual pieces should be pretty familiar:  cotton double-breasted jacket from Ferdinando Car...

Aug 29th 2022

The T-shirt under tailoring

Read MoreMay 26th 2021

I’ve never actively disliked T-shirts under tailoring. I just tend not to wear them myself and, when I have seen them worn, I think it can be done quite badly.  Done well, wearing a T-shirt rather than a collared shirt can pleasingly subvert the f...

The T-shirt under tailoring

I’ve never actively disliked T-shirts under tailoring. I just tend not to wear them myself and, when I have seen them worn, I think it can be done quite badly.  Done well, wearing a T-shirt rather than a collared shirt can pleasingly subvert the f...

May 26th 2021

Coarse vs fine cottons in tailoring

Read MoreJul 25th 2016

We covered the appeal of cotton as a tailoring material generally last week, but didn't talk about the different types of cottons. There are corduroys and moleskins of course, gabardines and seersucker. But a difference I find particularly interesti...

Coarse vs fine cottons in tailoring

We covered the appeal of cotton as a tailoring material generally last week, but didn't talk about the different types of cottons. There are corduroys and moleskins of course, gabardines and seersucker. But a difference I find particularly interesti...

Jul 25th 2016

A Caraceni: bespoke tailor, Milan

Read MoreJul 4th 2014

 Although I decided to have my first Milanese suit made at Ferdinando Caraceni (see previous post), I've visited and got to know Carlo and Massimiliano Andreacchio at A Caraceni as well. Between them, they are the highest form of central-Italian tai...

A Caraceni: bespoke tailor, Milan

 Although I decided to have my first Milanese suit made at Ferdinando Caraceni (see previous post), I've visited and got to know Carlo and Massimiliano Andreacchio at A Caraceni as well. Between them, they are the highest form of central-Italian tai...

Jul 4th 2014

A collared cardigan under a jacket: Ciardi and Colhay’s

Read MoreMar 9th 2022

In recent weeks I’ve been playing around with this button-through cardigan from Colhay’s.  Initially I was sceptical as to whether I’d ever wear it tucked in - and afraid it was a little lightweight to wear untucked. The same fear put me off t...

A collared cardigan under a jacket: Ciardi and Colhay’s

In recent weeks I’ve been playing around with this button-through cardigan from Colhay’s.  Initially I was sceptical as to whether I’d ever wear it tucked in - and afraid it was a little lightweight to wear untucked. The same fear put me off t...

Mar 9th 2022

Postcard from Milan

Read MoreSep 25th 2020

When I was young, my family used to play a game on holiday. The question for all of us was: what can you see that tells you you’re in a different country? It could be the types of trees, the style of road signs, the way people gesticulate. It made ...

Postcard from Milan

When I was young, my family used to play a game on holiday. The question for all of us was: what can you see that tells you you’re in a different country? It could be the types of trees, the style of road signs, the way people gesticulate. It made ...

Sep 25th 2020

Five double-breasted styles compared

Read MoreSep 1st 2016

Last month we talked about how small changes in the proportions of a double-breasted jacket can have a radical effect on its style - and therefore on the people or situations it suits. This week I've used five of my own jackets to demonstrate these ...

Five double-breasted styles compared

Last month we talked about how small changes in the proportions of a double-breasted jacket can have a radical effect on its style - and therefore on the people or situations it suits. This week I've used five of my own jackets to demonstrate these ...

Sep 1st 2016

Brioni bespoke jacket and trousers: Review

Read MoreOct 13th 2021

This Brioni jacket was made for me under their bespoke programme, using the London store on Bruton Street. We also made a pair of cotton trousers, which I cover lower down, and a shirt.  In our previous article, I made the case for Brioni as a bespo...

Brioni bespoke jacket and trousers: Review

This Brioni jacket was made for me under their bespoke programme, using the London store on Bruton Street. We also made a pair of cotton trousers, which I cover lower down, and a shirt.  In our previous article, I made the case for Brioni as a bespo...

Oct 13th 2021

Grey cashmere and brown flannel: Caraceni and Abbarchi

Read MoreJul 1st 2015

  Last week’s explanation of how I put an outfit together seemed to be popular, so let’s try that again.This outfit is simpler than last week’s. There are fewer colours, there’s no tie to worry about, the handkerchief is plain. But still, t...

Grey cashmere and brown flannel: Caraceni and Abbarchi

  Last week’s explanation of how I put an outfit together seemed to be popular, so let’s try that again.This outfit is simpler than last week’s. There are fewer colours, there’s no tie to worry about, the handkerchief is plain. But still, t...

Jul 1st 2015

Carreducker remote-fitted bespoke boots: Review

Read MoreAug 2nd 2021

I think when craftsmen are doing remote fittings, they err on the safe side.  That’s one consistency I can draw from my online bespoke over the past year.  Whether it’s with WW Chan, Massura or Ferdinando Caraceni in tailoring, Carreducker, Car...

Carreducker remote-fitted bespoke boots: Review

I think when craftsmen are doing remote fittings, they err on the safe side.  That’s one consistency I can draw from my online bespoke over the past year.  Whether it’s with WW Chan, Massura or Ferdinando Caraceni in tailoring, Carreducker, Car...

Aug 2nd 2021

The jackets I picked for winter

Read MoreOct 20th 2021

A couple of weeks ago, when our little Indian summer here in the UK came to an end, I started the process of switching my wardrobe around for colder weather.  I keep winter sweaters, roll necks, coats and heavy tweeds stored in the attic, and slowly...

The jackets I picked for winter

A couple of weeks ago, when our little Indian summer here in the UK came to an end, I started the process of switching my wardrobe around for colder weather.  I keep winter sweaters, roll necks, coats and heavy tweeds stored in the attic, and slowly...

Oct 20th 2021

Pirozzi corduroy suit: Style breakdown

Read MoreSep 13th 2021

*This is an extract from the book Bespoke Style, which is available here on the PS shop* Nunzio Pirozzi has a strong reputation in Naples. Indeed, he’s one of the few master tailors that other tailors consistently praise. (The usual method of ex...

Pirozzi corduroy suit: Style breakdown

*This is an extract from the book Bespoke Style, which is available here on the PS shop* Nunzio Pirozzi has a strong reputation in Naples. Indeed, he’s one of the few master tailors that other tailors consistently praise. (The usual method of ex...

Sep 13th 2021

Double-breasted cotton jacket and striped shirt

Read MoreJul 9th 2018

When I first had this cotton jacket made, I noted that it was a tricky one to work into an outfit. The vintage cotton cloth (more details here) is rather rough and casual, yet the cut and style are quite smart. Having it as a double-breasted jacket...

Double-breasted cotton jacket and striped shirt

When I first had this cotton jacket made, I noted that it was a tricky one to work into an outfit. The vintage cotton cloth (more details here) is rather rough and casual, yet the cut and style are quite smart. Having it as a double-breasted jacket...

Jul 9th 2018

Jetted pockets: Signs of a good finishing

Read MoreJun 22nd 2020

A reader recently asked about what constituted the ‘finishing’ of a suit - and what indicates quality.  I initially planned a response going through every aspect of this, with examples, but that quickly became unwieldy. There are just too many t...

Jetted pockets: Signs of a good finishing

A reader recently asked about what constituted the ‘finishing’ of a suit - and what indicates quality.  I initially planned a response going through every aspect of this, with examples, but that quickly became unwieldy. There are just too many t...

Jun 22nd 2020

Milan: A sartorial city guide

Read MoreSep 16th 2015

   Milan is the centre of the men’s fashion industry, yet as far as style is concerned, there are surprisingly few shops worth visiting. Via Montenapoleone, Via Della Spiga and the roads that run between them are all pleasant places to stroll....

Milan: A sartorial city guide

   Milan is the centre of the men’s fashion industry, yet as far as style is concerned, there are surprisingly few shops worth visiting. Via Montenapoleone, Via Della Spiga and the roads that run between them are all pleasant places to stroll....

Sep 16th 2015

How great things age: Nicoletta’s 50-year-old jacket

Read MoreNov 30th 2020

In the coming months I will be writing more posts again in our ‘How great things age’ series, which aims to illustrate the beauty of quality clothing over time.  Basically, it’s an antidote to the new clothing that it’s much easier to wri...

How great things age: Nicoletta’s 50-year-old jacket

In the coming months I will be writing more posts again in our ‘How great things age’ series, which aims to illustrate the beauty of quality clothing over time.  Basically, it’s an antidote to the new clothing that it’s much easier to wri...

Nov 30th 2020

Introducing: The Sartorial Travel Guide

Read MoreJun 26th 2019

UPDATE: The readers' special edition of this book sold out on its first day. It is now only available from the shops listed at the bottom of this page. The standard edition is available in bookshops and will be on the PS Shop in the future too.  Ove...

Introducing: The Sartorial Travel Guide

UPDATE: The readers' special edition of this book sold out on its first day. It is now only available from the shops listed at the bottom of this page. The standard edition is available in bookshops and will be on the PS Shop in the future too.  Ove...

Jun 26th 2019