How bespoke cowboy boots are made: Lee Miller

Read MoreJun 10th 2013

I wrote last week about Lee Miller, one of the best bespoke cowboy-boot makers in the US. Other than the man himself, my prime interest in talking to Lee was the similarities with bespoke dress shoes. The process, I learnt, is largely the same but wi...

How bespoke cowboy boots are made: Lee Miller

I wrote last week about Lee Miller, one of the best bespoke cowboy-boot makers in the US. Other than the man himself, my prime interest in talking to Lee was the similarities with bespoke dress shoes. The process, I learnt, is largely the same but wi...

Jun 10th 2013

Lee Miller, bespoke bootmaker, Austin

Read MoreJun 5th 2013

Talking to Lee Miller reminds me what I love about craftsmen. He has that mix of sincerity, humility and zeal that you only seem to find in people who must mix the aesthetic and the functional on a daily basis.Lee is a maker of bespoke cowboy boots b...

Lee Miller, bespoke bootmaker, Austin

Talking to Lee Miller reminds me what I love about craftsmen. He has that mix of sincerity, humility and zeal that you only seem to find in people who must mix the aesthetic and the functional on a daily basis.Lee is a maker of bespoke cowboy boots b...

Jun 5th 2013

Beautiful semi-bespoke boots from Rivolta

Read MoreJul 19th 2010

Back in October last year I was introduced to a new/old shoe brand called Rivolta. A Milanese name that goes back to the 1880s, it was forced to close down in the seventies, only to be restarted last year with an interesting twist – they proposed t...

Beautiful semi-bespoke boots from Rivolta

Back in October last year I was introduced to a new/old shoe brand called Rivolta. A Milanese name that goes back to the 1880s, it was forced to close down in the seventies, only to be restarted last year with an interesting twist – they proposed t...

Jul 19th 2010

Tim Little: bespoke Chelsea boots

Read MoreDec 17th 2014

 As mentioned back in October, I recently had a pair of bespoke Chelsea boots made by Tim Little – the owner of Grenson shoes, who also runs a smaller label under his own name.I was interested in Tim’s bespoke offering primarily for the cost. At...

Tim Little: bespoke Chelsea boots

 As mentioned back in October, I recently had a pair of bespoke Chelsea boots made by Tim Little – the owner of Grenson shoes, who also runs a smaller label under his own name.I was interested in Tim’s bespoke offering primarily for the cost. At...

Dec 17th 2014

Seven levels of formality

Read MoreMay 4th 2017

Understanding formality is a cornerstone of dressing well.  Only when you understand that flannel is more casual than worsted, and a derby more casual than an oxford, can you begin to understand the impression clothes create - and how to put appropr...

Seven levels of formality

Understanding formality is a cornerstone of dressing well.  Only when you understand that flannel is more casual than worsted, and a derby more casual than an oxford, can you begin to understand the impression clothes create - and how to put appropr...

May 4th 2017

Introducing: The PS Bridge Coat

Read MoreOct 31st 2018

*For updates and stock please see the shop page* Of all the things I’ve developed or helped develop over the past few years, the PS Trench Coat was one of the most satisfying. That was partly because it seemed to fill a particular niche for peopl...

Introducing: The PS Bridge Coat

*For updates and stock please see the shop page* Of all the things I’ve developed or helped develop over the past few years, the PS Trench Coat was one of the most satisfying. That was partly because it seemed to fill a particular niche for peopl...

Oct 31st 2018

The weekend capsule wardrobe

Read MoreNov 13th 2019

A weekend wardrobe can be a particular challenge for guys that care about their clothes. It should be relaxed and easy – not requiring much thought, and a nice change from the working week – yet cover a wide array of activities. At one end of the...

The weekend capsule wardrobe

A weekend wardrobe can be a particular challenge for guys that care about their clothes. It should be relaxed and easy – not requiring much thought, and a nice change from the working week – yet cover a wide array of activities. At one end of the...

Nov 13th 2019

Vestrucci charcoal suit: Style Breakdown

Read MoreNov 25th 2019

I’m very fond of the cut of this Vestrucci suit, and it is more unusual than I realised when I first received it.  Although many aspects are similar to Liverano and other related Florentine tailors, there are small and large differences.  So th...

Vestrucci charcoal suit: Style Breakdown

I’m very fond of the cut of this Vestrucci suit, and it is more unusual than I realised when I first received it.  Although many aspects are similar to Liverano and other related Florentine tailors, there are small and large differences.  So th...

Nov 25th 2019

Ciardi jacket in vintage gun-club tweed, from Lafayette Saltiel

Read MoreJun 10th 2019

I was very excited when I received this jacket a month ago. Primarily because of the shoulder. Enzo Ciardi is fast becoming one of my favourite tailors. I like him, I like his roomy Neapolitan style, and everything he's made for me has been good: on ...

Ciardi jacket in vintage gun-club tweed, from Lafayette Saltiel

I was very excited when I received this jacket a month ago. Primarily because of the shoulder. Enzo Ciardi is fast becoming one of my favourite tailors. I like him, I like his roomy Neapolitan style, and everything he's made for me has been good: on ...

Jun 10th 2019

Paris: A sartorial shopping guide - 2019 update with Holiday, Beige, Husbands

Read MoreJul 22nd 2019

There are some interesting things going on in French menswear.  Although France has generally been the poor cousin to Britain and Italy here, in the last 30 years it seemed to get worse. Most of the good shops closed (Old England, Arnys) and accord...

Paris: A sartorial shopping guide - 2019 update with Holiday, Beige, Husbands

There are some interesting things going on in French menswear.  Although France has generally been the poor cousin to Britain and Italy here, in the last 30 years it seemed to get worse. Most of the good shops closed (Old England, Arnys) and accord...

Jul 22nd 2019

Introducing: The Donegal Overcoat

Read MoreOct 2nd 2019

This is the Donegal Overcoat. Yarn from Donegal, woven in Lancashire and manufactured in Manchester. As an idea, it had its origins in the observation that I wore my brown raglan coat (shown here) more often than any other last winter.  Despite the ...

Introducing: The Donegal Overcoat

This is the Donegal Overcoat. Yarn from Donegal, woven in Lancashire and manufactured in Manchester. As an idea, it had its origins in the observation that I wore my brown raglan coat (shown here) more often than any other last winter.  Despite the ...

Oct 2nd 2019

How I dress now: The jacket/trousers uniform

Read MoreNov 21st 2018

Eight months ago I quit my day job as a financial journalist in order to dedicate myself to Permanent Style. (Many heartfelt thanks for all the messages I’ve received since then.) This prompted an interesting question from readers: How would I dre...

How I dress now: The jacket/trousers uniform

Eight months ago I quit my day job as a financial journalist in order to dedicate myself to Permanent Style. (Many heartfelt thanks for all the messages I’ve received since then.) This prompted an interesting question from readers: How would I dre...

Nov 21st 2018

Best-dressed man 2019: @Gusvs9 (or, dressing simply but well)

Read MoreFeb 20th 2019

Best-dressed non-professional 2019: @Gusvs9 Runners-up: @urbancomposition, @flannels_and_tweed @Gusvs9 doesn’t like people to know who he is. You never see his face on Instagram, and there is no biography. Such an approach is almost weird in th...

Best-dressed man 2019: @Gusvs9 (or, dressing simply but well)

Best-dressed non-professional 2019: @Gusvs9 Runners-up: @urbancomposition, @flannels_and_tweed @Gusvs9 doesn’t like people to know who he is. You never see his face on Instagram, and there is no biography. Such an approach is almost weird in th...

Feb 20th 2019

Jamie's alternative Pitti picks

Read MoreJul 29th 2019

Jamie Ferguson (above), the photographer I’ve worked with over the past few years on Permanent Style, has a different style to me.  He gets tailoring, and wears tailoring, but he also wears more sportswear, more workwear, and experiments more. He ...

Jamie's alternative Pitti picks

Jamie Ferguson (above), the photographer I’ve worked with over the past few years on Permanent Style, has a different style to me.  He gets tailoring, and wears tailoring, but he also wears more sportswear, more workwear, and experiments more. He ...

Jul 29th 2019

Gaziano & Girling bespoke: new adelaides and fitting process

Read MoreAug 21st 2013

These are my latest Gaziano & Girlingbespoke shoes, waiting to be made ready for a fitting (hopefully next week). They are a St James style (semi-brogue adelaide) in vintage cedar. Interestingly, Tony has changed his fitting process recently, mostly ...

Gaziano & Girling bespoke: new adelaides and fitting process

These are my latest Gaziano & Girlingbespoke shoes, waiting to be made ready for a fitting (hopefully next week). They are a St James style (semi-brogue adelaide) in vintage cedar. Interestingly, Tony has changed his fitting process recently, mostly ...

Aug 21st 2013

Michael Browne bespoke coat: Review

Read MoreJan 8th 2020

Permanent Style prides itself on honest reviews of clothing.  Please be reassured that this policy continues in this piece on Michael Browne. Despite the fact that there are basically no negative points. There's just hardly anything bad to say (othe...

Michael Browne bespoke coat: Review

Permanent Style prides itself on honest reviews of clothing.  Please be reassured that this policy continues in this piece on Michael Browne. Despite the fact that there are basically no negative points. There's just hardly anything bad to say (othe...

Jan 8th 2020

Stivaleria Savoia: Bespoke shoemaker, Milan

Read MoreJun 23rd 2017

Stivaleria Savoia is an old Milanese bespoke bootmaker (stivaleria means bootmaker, and the company was founded by craftsmen who made for the Savoia, or Savoy, cavalry). The designs are classic and practical, and unlikely to set any Instagram feeds...

Stivaleria Savoia: Bespoke shoemaker, Milan

Stivaleria Savoia is an old Milanese bespoke bootmaker (stivaleria means bootmaker, and the company was founded by craftsmen who made for the Savoia, or Savoy, cavalry). The designs are classic and practical, and unlikely to set any Instagram feeds...

Jun 23rd 2017

Davide Taub: Style and the tailor

Read MoreDec 5th 2012

I love Davide because he opens up a whole world of possibilities in tailoring for me. He regularly works with bespoke raw denim; bespoke leather jackets; other things developed while he was at Maurice Sedwell. He is the kind of guy who has designed, ...

Davide Taub: Style and the tailor

I love Davide because he opens up a whole world of possibilities in tailoring for me. He regularly works with bespoke raw denim; bespoke leather jackets; other things developed while he was at Maurice Sedwell. He is the kind of guy who has designed, ...

Dec 5th 2012

Michael Browne: Style and the tailor

Read MoreNov 8th 2012

Most tailors, in my experience, do not have great style. It was always thus: tailors were pushed by their customers, and one of the problems with modern tailoring is the lack of stylish and educated customers to encourage new cuts, materials and styl...

Michael Browne: Style and the tailor

Most tailors, in my experience, do not have great style. It was always thus: tailors were pushed by their customers, and one of the problems with modern tailoring is the lack of stylish and educated customers to encourage new cuts, materials and styl...

Nov 8th 2012

Brio menswear store - Beijing, China

Read MoreJun 15th 2015

 Last month we had a book launch at the Brio menswear store in Beijing. It's worth running through a few more details of the shop - because the stock is interesting, and because it is part of a pleasing trend in more specialist tailoring and craft...

Brio menswear store - Beijing, China

 Last month we had a book launch at the Brio menswear store in Beijing. It's worth running through a few more details of the shop - because the stock is interesting, and because it is part of a pleasing trend in more specialist tailoring and craft...

Jun 15th 2015

Norman Vilalta: conjuring a boot

Read MoreNov 17th 2014

 Norman Vilalta is one of my favourite bespoke artisans. Enthusiastic, talented and down-to-earth. His creations can often be fantastical, but he also does a nice line in conservative shoes with little touches of personality. Earlier this year we ...

Norman Vilalta: conjuring a boot

 Norman Vilalta is one of my favourite bespoke artisans. Enthusiastic, talented and down-to-earth. His creations can often be fantastical, but he also does a nice line in conservative shoes with little touches of personality. Earlier this year we ...

Nov 17th 2014

Best-dressed man 2018: Ethan Newton (or, how to dress the larger man)

Read MoreJan 31st 2018

Best-Dressed Man of the Year: Ethan Newton Runners up: Andreas Weinas Yukio Akamine Noboru Kakuta Bruce Boyer Our Best-Dressed Man of the Year is Ethan Newton, founder of Bryceland’s Co - the store in Tokyo and now in Hong Kong. Ethan received ...

Best-dressed man 2018: Ethan Newton (or, how to dress the larger man)

Best-Dressed Man of the Year: Ethan Newton Runners up: Andreas Weinas Yukio Akamine Noboru Kakuta Bruce Boyer Our Best-Dressed Man of the Year is Ethan Newton, founder of Bryceland’s Co - the store in Tokyo and now in Hong Kong. Ethan received ...

Jan 31st 2018

How an overcoat should fit (Cifonelli fitting)  

Read MoreSep 5th 2014

 A reader recently asked me how an overcoat should fit – around the armholes, in the shoulder width – and given that I already had a post planned on this fitting on a Cifonelli overcoat, I thought I would combine the two.The central problem with...

How an overcoat should fit (Cifonelli fitting)  

 A reader recently asked me how an overcoat should fit – around the armholes, in the shoulder width – and given that I already had a post planned on this fitting on a Cifonelli overcoat, I thought I would combine the two.The central problem with...

Sep 5th 2014

North Sea Clothing

Read MoreDec 10th 2012

I’m always interested in clothing that is different. Other than the fancies of fashion, very little changes in menswear. So if a piece is cut, woven or treated differently, I want to know why.North Sea Clothing sweaters are different. They are itch...

North Sea Clothing

I’m always interested in clothing that is different. Other than the fancies of fashion, very little changes in menswear. So if a piece is cut, woven or treated differently, I want to know why.North Sea Clothing sweaters are different. They are itch...

Dec 10th 2012

Classics that never get used: Reader question

Read MoreJul 30th 2014

 Dear Simon,I have been quite busy in the last seven years building a wardrobe that will seem modest by your standards, but is still quite substantial for me. And obviously once you start, it’s hard to stop: there always seems to be something, eve...

Classics that never get used: Reader question

 Dear Simon,I have been quite busy in the last seven years building a wardrobe that will seem modest by your standards, but is still quite substantial for me. And obviously once you start, it’s hard to stop: there always seems to be something, eve...

Jul 30th 2014