How bespoke cowboy boots are made: Lee Miller

Read MoreJun 10th 2013

I wrote last week about Lee Miller, one of the best bespoke cowboy-boot makers in the US. Other than the man himself, my prime interest in talking to Lee was the similarities with bespoke dress shoes. The process, I learnt, is largely the same but wi...

How bespoke cowboy boots are made: Lee Miller

I wrote last week about Lee Miller, one of the best bespoke cowboy-boot makers in the US. Other than the man himself, my prime interest in talking to Lee was the similarities with bespoke dress shoes. The process, I learnt, is largely the same but wi...

Jun 10th 2013

Lee Miller, bespoke bootmaker, Austin

Read MoreJun 5th 2013

Talking to Lee Miller reminds me what I love about craftsmen. He has that mix of sincerity, humility and zeal that you only seem to find in people who must mix the aesthetic and the functional on a daily basis.Lee is a maker of bespoke cowboy boots b...

Lee Miller, bespoke bootmaker, Austin

Talking to Lee Miller reminds me what I love about craftsmen. He has that mix of sincerity, humility and zeal that you only seem to find in people who must mix the aesthetic and the functional on a daily basis.Lee is a maker of bespoke cowboy boots b...

Jun 5th 2013

Beautiful semi-bespoke boots from Rivolta

Read MoreJul 19th 2010

Back in October last year I was introduced to a new/old shoe brand called Rivolta. A Milanese name that goes back to the 1880s, it was forced to close down in the seventies, only to be restarted last year with an interesting twist – they proposed t...

Beautiful semi-bespoke boots from Rivolta

Back in October last year I was introduced to a new/old shoe brand called Rivolta. A Milanese name that goes back to the 1880s, it was forced to close down in the seventies, only to be restarted last year with an interesting twist – they proposed t...

Jul 19th 2010

Tim Little: bespoke Chelsea boots

Read MoreDec 17th 2014

 As mentioned back in October, I recently had a pair of bespoke Chelsea boots made by Tim Little – the owner of Grenson shoes, who also runs a smaller label under his own name.I was interested in Tim’s bespoke offering primarily for the cost. At...

Tim Little: bespoke Chelsea boots

 As mentioned back in October, I recently had a pair of bespoke Chelsea boots made by Tim Little – the owner of Grenson shoes, who also runs a smaller label under his own name.I was interested in Tim’s bespoke offering primarily for the cost. At...

Dec 17th 2014

Yohei Fukuda bespoke shoes: Review

Read MoreApr 17th 2020

As mentioned in my recent article on Yohei Fukuda, I ordered a pair of bespoke shoes from him last year, when I was in Tokyo.  However, I opted for bespoke without a fitting.  Why? Well, at the moment I seem to be getting to Tokyo every three years...

Yohei Fukuda bespoke shoes: Review

As mentioned in my recent article on Yohei Fukuda, I ordered a pair of bespoke shoes from him last year, when I was in Tokyo.  However, I opted for bespoke without a fitting.  Why? Well, at the moment I seem to be getting to Tokyo every three years...

Apr 17th 2020

Seven levels of formality

Read MoreMay 4th 2017

Understanding formality is a cornerstone of dressing well.  Only when you understand that flannel is more casual than worsted, and a derby more casual than an oxford, can you begin to understand the impression clothes create - and how to put appropr...

Seven levels of formality

Understanding formality is a cornerstone of dressing well.  Only when you understand that flannel is more casual than worsted, and a derby more casual than an oxford, can you begin to understand the impression clothes create - and how to put appropr...

May 4th 2017

How I dress now: The jacket/trousers uniform

Read MoreNov 21st 2018

Eight months ago I quit my day job as a financial journalist in order to dedicate myself to Permanent Style. (Many heartfelt thanks for all the messages I’ve received since then.) This prompted an interesting question from readers: How would I dre...

How I dress now: The jacket/trousers uniform

Eight months ago I quit my day job as a financial journalist in order to dedicate myself to Permanent Style. (Many heartfelt thanks for all the messages I’ve received since then.) This prompted an interesting question from readers: How would I dre...

Nov 21st 2018

Introducing: The PS Bridge Coat

Read MoreOct 31st 2018

*For updates and stock please see the shop page* Of all the things I’ve developed or helped develop over the past few years, the PS Trench Coat was one of the most satisfying. That was partly because it seemed to fill a particular niche for peopl...

Introducing: The PS Bridge Coat

*For updates and stock please see the shop page* Of all the things I’ve developed or helped develop over the past few years, the PS Trench Coat was one of the most satisfying. That was partly because it seemed to fill a particular niche for peopl...

Oct 31st 2018

Ciardi jacket in vintage gun-club tweed, from Lafayette Saltiel

Read MoreJun 10th 2019

I was very excited when I received this jacket a month ago. Primarily because of the shoulder. Enzo Ciardi is fast becoming one of my favourite tailors. I like him, I like his roomy Neapolitan style, and everything he's made for me has been good: on ...

Ciardi jacket in vintage gun-club tweed, from Lafayette Saltiel

I was very excited when I received this jacket a month ago. Primarily because of the shoulder. Enzo Ciardi is fast becoming one of my favourite tailors. I like him, I like his roomy Neapolitan style, and everything he's made for me has been good: on ...

Jun 10th 2019

The weekend capsule wardrobe

Read MoreNov 13th 2019

A weekend wardrobe can be a particular challenge for guys that care about their clothes. It should be relaxed and easy – not requiring much thought, and a nice change from the working week – yet cover a wide array of activities. At one end of the...

The weekend capsule wardrobe

A weekend wardrobe can be a particular challenge for guys that care about their clothes. It should be relaxed and easy – not requiring much thought, and a nice change from the working week – yet cover a wide array of activities. At one end of the...

Nov 13th 2019

Introducing: The Donegal Overcoat

Read MoreOct 2nd 2019

This is the Donegal Overcoat. Yarn from Donegal, woven in Lancashire and manufactured in Manchester. As an idea, it had its origins in the observation that I wore my brown raglan coat (shown here) more often than any other last winter.  Despite the ...

Introducing: The Donegal Overcoat

This is the Donegal Overcoat. Yarn from Donegal, woven in Lancashire and manufactured in Manchester. As an idea, it had its origins in the observation that I wore my brown raglan coat (shown here) more often than any other last winter.  Despite the ...

Oct 2nd 2019

Paris: A sartorial shopping guide - 2019 update with Holiday, Beige, Husbands

Read MoreJul 22nd 2019

There are some interesting things going on in French menswear.  Although France has generally been the poor cousin to Britain and Italy here, in the last 30 years it seemed to get worse. Most of the good shops closed (Old England, Arnys) and accord...

Paris: A sartorial shopping guide - 2019 update with Holiday, Beige, Husbands

There are some interesting things going on in French menswear.  Although France has generally been the poor cousin to Britain and Italy here, in the last 30 years it seemed to get worse. Most of the good shops closed (Old England, Arnys) and accord...

Jul 22nd 2019

Vestrucci charcoal suit: Style Breakdown

Read MoreNov 25th 2019

I’m very fond of the cut of this Vestrucci suit, and it is more unusual than I realised when I first received it.  Although many aspects are similar to Liverano and other related Florentine tailors, there are small and large differences.  So th...

Vestrucci charcoal suit: Style Breakdown

I’m very fond of the cut of this Vestrucci suit, and it is more unusual than I realised when I first received it.  Although many aspects are similar to Liverano and other related Florentine tailors, there are small and large differences.  So th...

Nov 25th 2019

Best-dressed man 2019: @Gusvs9 (or, dressing simply but well)

Read MoreFeb 20th 2019

Best-dressed non-professional 2019: @Gusvs9 Runners-up: @urbancomposition, @flannels_and_tweed @Gusvs9 doesn’t like people to know who he is. You never see his face on Instagram, and there is no biography. Such an approach is almost weird ...

Best-dressed man 2019: @Gusvs9 (or, dressing simply but well)

Best-dressed non-professional 2019: @Gusvs9 Runners-up: @urbancomposition, @flannels_and_tweed @Gusvs9 doesn’t like people to know who he is. You never see his face on Instagram, and there is no biography. Such an approach is almost weird ...

Feb 20th 2019

Jamie's alternative Pitti picks

Read MoreJul 29th 2019

Jamie Ferguson (above), the photographer I’ve worked with over the past few years on Permanent Style, has a different style to me.  He gets tailoring, and wears tailoring, but he also wears more sportswear, more workwear, and experiments more. He ...

Jamie's alternative Pitti picks

Jamie Ferguson (above), the photographer I’ve worked with over the past few years on Permanent Style, has a different style to me.  He gets tailoring, and wears tailoring, but he also wears more sportswear, more workwear, and experiments more. He ...

Jul 29th 2019

Stivaleria Savoia: Bespoke shoemaker, Milan

Read MoreJun 23rd 2017

Stivaleria Savoia is an old Milanese bespoke bootmaker (stivaleria means bootmaker, and the company was founded by craftsmen who made for the Savoia, or Savoy, cavalry). The designs are classic and practical, and unlikely to set any Instagram feeds...

Stivaleria Savoia: Bespoke shoemaker, Milan

Stivaleria Savoia is an old Milanese bespoke bootmaker (stivaleria means bootmaker, and the company was founded by craftsmen who made for the Savoia, or Savoy, cavalry). The designs are classic and practical, and unlikely to set any Instagram feeds...

Jun 23rd 2017

Gaziano & Girling bespoke: new adelaides and fitting process

Read MoreAug 21st 2013

These are my latest Gaziano & Girlingbespoke shoes, waiting to be made ready for a fitting (hopefully next week). They are a St James style (semi-brogue adelaide) in vintage cedar. Interestingly, Tony has changed his fitting process recently, mostly ...

Gaziano & Girling bespoke: new adelaides and fitting process

These are my latest Gaziano & Girlingbespoke shoes, waiting to be made ready for a fitting (hopefully next week). They are a St James style (semi-brogue adelaide) in vintage cedar. Interestingly, Tony has changed his fitting process recently, mostly ...

Aug 21st 2013

The (55) bespoke tailors I have known

Read MoreJun 3rd 2020

This post was originally written in 2012: a breakdown of all the tailors I have tried personally (rather than just written about), split into different countries. It was updated in 2016, and I have updated it again now in 2020, adding a further 1...

The (55) bespoke tailors I have known

This post was originally written in 2012: a breakdown of all the tailors I have tried personally (rather than just written about), split into different countries. It was updated in 2016, and I have updated it again now in 2020, adding a further 1...

Jun 3rd 2020

Licia Luchini: Bespoke knitwear, Florence

Read MoreDec 5th 2018

You don’t see many hand-knitted sweaters from luxury brands. In general, their knitwear is sold on the quality and rarity of the fibre, rather than the manufacture. And when you do - as at Ralph Lauren Purple Label for instance - they’re very ex...

Licia Luchini: Bespoke knitwear, Florence

You don’t see many hand-knitted sweaters from luxury brands. In general, their knitwear is sold on the quality and rarity of the fibre, rather than the manufacture. And when you do - as at Ralph Lauren Purple Label for instance - they’re very ex...

Dec 5th 2018

Michael Browne bespoke coat: Review

Read MoreJan 8th 2020

Permanent Style prides itself on honest reviews of clothing.  Please be reassured that this policy continues in this piece on Michael Browne. Despite the fact that there are basically no negative points. There's just hardly anything bad to say (othe...

Michael Browne bespoke coat: Review

Permanent Style prides itself on honest reviews of clothing.  Please be reassured that this policy continues in this piece on Michael Browne. Despite the fact that there are basically no negative points. There's just hardly anything bad to say (othe...

Jan 8th 2020

Gieves & Hawkes bespoke linen suit: Review

Read MoreJul 17th 2019

This dark, muted green linen was a risk. I had never had anything like it before, let alone seen it on anyone else.  But I think it’s worked out very well. I’m pleased as well as relieved.  The colour is unusual yet subtle. Indoors, it looks mo...

Gieves & Hawkes bespoke linen suit: Review

This dark, muted green linen was a risk. I had never had anything like it before, let alone seen it on anyone else.  But I think it’s worked out very well. I’m pleased as well as relieved.  The colour is unusual yet subtle. Indoors, it looks mo...

Jul 17th 2019

Is bespoke worth it?

Read MoreSep 4th 2019

A reader recently commented that, as a newcomer, he struggled to see why he would get into bespoke tailoring - given the number of negative experiences I often report.  It made me realise that I rarely set out the case for bespoke (both for and agai...

Is bespoke worth it?

A reader recently commented that, as a newcomer, he struggled to see why he would get into bespoke tailoring - given the number of negative experiences I often report.  It made me realise that I rarely set out the case for bespoke (both for and agai...

Sep 4th 2019

Prologue semi-bespoke summer jacket: Review

Read MoreApr 17th 2019

This is the summer jacket that Hong Kong outfit Prologue have been making for me over the past six months. It is finally ready, with two fittings, and I think the result is great. It’s not perfect, but the fit is good and the work solid too. If...

Prologue semi-bespoke summer jacket: Review

This is the summer jacket that Hong Kong outfit Prologue have been making for me over the past six months. It is finally ready, with two fittings, and I think the result is great. It’s not perfect, but the fit is good and the work solid too. If...

Apr 17th 2019

Ciro Zizolfi bespoke tweed jacket: Review

Read MoreDec 10th 2018

Now and again, a bespoke commission is almost seamless. At every fitting, you like the look of the jacket and almost nothing seems to be needed on the fit. Just as importantly, the tailor delivers what they say they will: the jacket is always ready...

Ciro Zizolfi bespoke tweed jacket: Review

Now and again, a bespoke commission is almost seamless. At every fitting, you like the look of the jacket and almost nothing seems to be needed on the fit. Just as importantly, the tailor delivers what they say they will: the jacket is always ready...

Dec 10th 2018

New York bespoke tailors - Updated

Read MoreJan 29th 2019

This is a fully updated version of our post from January on the bespoke tailors in and around New York. The contributions of readers were extremely helpful, particularly those that had used tailors personally, as this is an area with a lot of misin...

New York bespoke tailors - Updated

This is a fully updated version of our post from January on the bespoke tailors in and around New York. The contributions of readers were extremely helpful, particularly those that had used tailors personally, as this is an area with a lot of misin...

Jan 29th 2019