New York bespoke tailors - Updated

Read MoreJan 29th 2019

This is a fully updated version of our post from January on the bespoke tailors in and around New York. The contributions of readers were extremely helpful, particularly those that had used tailors personally, as this is an area with a lot of misin...

New York bespoke tailors - Updated

This is a fully updated version of our post from January on the bespoke tailors in and around New York. The contributions of readers were extremely helpful, particularly those that had used tailors personally, as this is an area with a lot of misin...

Jan 29th 2019

Bespoke v Made-to-Measure: Eduardo de Simone jackets

Read MoreNov 14th 2018

When Eduardo de Simone and I met at his factory last year, we spent a long time talking about the advantages and disadvantages of bespoke and made-to-measure (MTM) tailoring. As a result of them, Eduardo proposed an experiment. He offered to make me...

Bespoke v Made-to-Measure: Eduardo de Simone jackets

When Eduardo de Simone and I met at his factory last year, we spent a long time talking about the advantages and disadvantages of bespoke and made-to-measure (MTM) tailoring. As a result of them, Eduardo proposed an experiment. He offered to make me...

Nov 14th 2018

Norman Vilalta: conjuring a boot

Read MoreNov 17th 2014

 Norman Vilalta is one of my favourite bespoke artisans. Enthusiastic, talented and down-to-earth. His creations can often be fantastical, but he also does a nice line in conservative shoes with little touches of personality. Earlier this year we ...

Norman Vilalta: conjuring a boot

 Norman Vilalta is one of my favourite bespoke artisans. Enthusiastic, talented and down-to-earth. His creations can often be fantastical, but he also does a nice line in conservative shoes with little touches of personality. Earlier this year we ...

Nov 17th 2014

Best-dressed man 2018: Ethan Newton (or, how to dress the larger man)

Read MoreJan 31st 2018

Best-Dressed Man of the Year: Ethan Newton Runners up: Andreas Weinas Yukio Akamine Noboru Kakuta Bruce Boyer Our Best-Dressed Man of the Year is Ethan Newton, founder of Bryceland’s Co - the store in Tokyo and now in Hong Kong. Ethan ...

Best-dressed man 2018: Ethan Newton (or, how to dress the larger man)

Best-Dressed Man of the Year: Ethan Newton Runners up: Andreas Weinas Yukio Akamine Noboru Kakuta Bruce Boyer Our Best-Dressed Man of the Year is Ethan Newton, founder of Bryceland’s Co - the store in Tokyo and now in Hong Kong. Ethan ...

Jan 31st 2018

How an overcoat should fit (Cifonelli fitting)  

Read MoreSep 5th 2014

 A reader recently asked me how an overcoat should fit – around the armholes, in the shoulder width – and given that I already had a post planned on this fitting on a Cifonelli overcoat, I thought I would combine the two.The central problem with...

How an overcoat should fit (Cifonelli fitting)  

 A reader recently asked me how an overcoat should fit – around the armholes, in the shoulder width – and given that I already had a post planned on this fitting on a Cifonelli overcoat, I thought I would combine the two.The central problem with...

Sep 5th 2014

Michael Browne: Style and the tailor

Read MoreNov 8th 2012

Most tailors, in my experience, do not have great style. It was always thus: tailors were pushed by their customers, and one of the problems with modern tailoring is the lack of stylish and educated customers to encourage new cuts, materials and styl...

Michael Browne: Style and the tailor

Most tailors, in my experience, do not have great style. It was always thus: tailors were pushed by their customers, and one of the problems with modern tailoring is the lack of stylish and educated customers to encourage new cuts, materials and styl...

Nov 8th 2012

Davide Taub: Style and the tailor

Read MoreDec 5th 2012

I love Davide because he opens up a whole world of possibilities in tailoring for me. He regularly works with bespoke raw denim; bespoke leather jackets; other things developed while he was at Maurice Sedwell. He is the kind of guy who has designed, ...

Davide Taub: Style and the tailor

I love Davide because he opens up a whole world of possibilities in tailoring for me. He regularly works with bespoke raw denim; bespoke leather jackets; other things developed while he was at Maurice Sedwell. He is the kind of guy who has designed, ...

Dec 5th 2012

North Sea Clothing

Read MoreDec 10th 2012

I’m always interested in clothing that is different. Other than the fancies of fashion, very little changes in menswear. So if a piece is cut, woven or treated differently, I want to know why.North Sea Clothing sweaters are different. They are itch...

North Sea Clothing

I’m always interested in clothing that is different. Other than the fancies of fashion, very little changes in menswear. So if a piece is cut, woven or treated differently, I want to know why.North Sea Clothing sweaters are different. They are itch...

Dec 10th 2012

Brio menswear store - Beijing, China

Read MoreJun 15th 2015

 Last month we had a book launch at the Brio menswear store in Beijing. It's worth running through a few more details of the shop - because the stock is interesting, and because it is part of a pleasing trend in more specialist tailoring and craft...

Brio menswear store - Beijing, China

 Last month we had a book launch at the Brio menswear store in Beijing. It's worth running through a few more details of the shop - because the stock is interesting, and because it is part of a pleasing trend in more specialist tailoring and craft...

Jun 15th 2015

Classics that never get used: Reader question

Read MoreJul 30th 2014

 Dear Simon,I have been quite busy in the last seven years building a wardrobe that will seem modest by your standards, but is still quite substantial for me. And obviously once you start, it’s hard to stop: there always seems to be something, eve...

Classics that never get used: Reader question

 Dear Simon,I have been quite busy in the last seven years building a wardrobe that will seem modest by your standards, but is still quite substantial for me. And obviously once you start, it’s hard to stop: there always seems to be something, eve...

Jul 30th 2014

Drake's soft, stylish jackets

Read MoreMar 30th 2016

  Drake’s will always be best known for their ties, then handkerchiefs, then perhaps knitwear. But for the past few years they have also been doing a nice little range of jackets in the Clifford Street store that deserve attention. (£895-£995)W...

Drake's soft, stylish jackets

  Drake’s will always be best known for their ties, then handkerchiefs, then perhaps knitwear. But for the past few years they have also been doing a nice little range of jackets in the Clifford Street store that deserve attention. (£895-£995)W...

Mar 30th 2016

Jean-Manuel Moreau made-to-measure suit: Review

Read MoreJun 10th 2020

Let’s move the conclusion up to the top of this review, just to get it out of the way.  This is a great made-to-measure suit. It’s fitted well, styled well and made well, and for me illustrates the pinnacle of what made-to-measure should be.  F...

Jean-Manuel Moreau made-to-measure suit: Review

Let’s move the conclusion up to the top of this review, just to get it out of the way.  This is a great made-to-measure suit. It’s fitted well, styled well and made well, and for me illustrates the pinnacle of what made-to-measure should be.  F...

Jun 10th 2020

Orazio Luciano made-to-measure jacket: Review

Read MoreApr 22nd 2020

[Correction: This piece originally stated that the jacket did not have a hand-padded lapel. It does, and this has now been added below.] This pink corduroy jacket was made for me by Orazio Luciano, over a period of six months.  I was measured at Pit...

Orazio Luciano made-to-measure jacket: Review

[Correction: This piece originally stated that the jacket did not have a hand-padded lapel. It does, and this has now been added below.] This pink corduroy jacket was made for me by Orazio Luciano, over a period of six months.  I was measured at Pit...

Apr 22nd 2020

Panico flannel suit: Style breakdown

Read MoreMay 1st 2020

(The book version of this series is going to press now, and will be out in a couple of months. It will feature extra content and tailors not included online. More on that soon.) Sartoria Panico is known as one of the more traditional Neapoli...

Panico flannel suit: Style breakdown

(The book version of this series is going to press now, and will be out in a couple of months. It will feature extra content and tailors not included online. More on that soon.) Sartoria Panico is known as one of the more traditional Neapoli...

May 1st 2020

Introducing: The (brown) reversible Valstarino

Read MoreJun 8th 2020

*Update: Although a couple of sizes have sold out, several customers have bought two jackets in order to compare sizes, and will be returning one. So if your size is sold out, do email [email protected] to receive an alert when it comes back...

Introducing: The (brown) reversible Valstarino

*Update: Although a couple of sizes have sold out, several customers have bought two jackets in order to compare sizes, and will be returning one. So if your size is sold out, do email [email protected] to receive an alert when it comes back...

Jun 8th 2020

Light relief: Jamie’s clothes and style

Read MoreApr 8th 2020

  OK, so. Friend and photographer Jamie Ferguson has been locked up indoors for weeks, as we all have. And he’s gone a bit stir crazy. We had started talking a while ago about shoots we could do remotely. Perhaps looking at a ...

Light relief: Jamie’s clothes and style

  OK, so. Friend and photographer Jamie Ferguson has been locked up indoors for weeks, as we all have. And he’s gone a bit stir crazy. We had started talking a while ago about shoots we could do remotely. Perhaps looking at a ...

Apr 8th 2020

Shoes in wet weather: The best ways to prevent rain damage

Read MoreApr 20th 2020

Last month I wrote a fairly comprehensive piece on the ways to deal with rain damage on shoes, when it happens.  In this article, I’ll outline the best ways to prevent that damage happening in the first place - both in terms of which shoes you wea...

Shoes in wet weather: The best ways to prevent rain damage

Last month I wrote a fairly comprehensive piece on the ways to deal with rain damage on shoes, when it happens.  In this article, I’ll outline the best ways to prevent that damage happening in the first place - both in terms of which shoes you wea...

Apr 20th 2020

Jean-Manuel Moreau, Paris

Read MoreMay 15th 2020

Perhaps the most striking thing about Jean-Manuel Moreau’s operation in Paris is how long it’s been around. Most shops we cover track their origins back 10 or 12 years. It’s in this period that stores like Trunk, The Armoury, Anderson & She...

Jean-Manuel Moreau, Paris

Perhaps the most striking thing about Jean-Manuel Moreau’s operation in Paris is how long it’s been around. Most shops we cover track their origins back 10 or 12 years. It’s in this period that stores like Trunk, The Armoury, Anderson & She...

May 15th 2020

Introducing: The Finest Cardigan

Read MoreMay 27th 2020

This is the finest cardigan you will find, anywhere.  That’s what we do with this series of knitwear pieces (like the Dartmoor): commission the finest quality possible, and design it to be the perfect partner for tailoring.  This cardigan uses a ...

Introducing: The Finest Cardigan

This is the finest cardigan you will find, anywhere.  That’s what we do with this series of knitwear pieces (like the Dartmoor): commission the finest quality possible, and design it to be the perfect partner for tailoring.  This cardigan uses a ...

May 27th 2020

Reader question: What do you wear at the weekend?

Read MoreJun 17th 2011

You spend a lot of time talking about suits and bespoke shoes, but what do you wear at the weekend? I have trouble picturing what you put on to pop out to the newsagent.Here are a few of my favourite things. Two types of chinos: those from Albam, whi...

Reader question: What do you wear at the weekend?

You spend a lot of time talking about suits and bespoke shoes, but what do you wear at the weekend? I have trouble picturing what you put on to pop out to the newsagent.Here are a few of my favourite things. Two types of chinos: those from Albam, whi...

Jun 17th 2011

How to buy vintage clothing: Three experts give their tips

Read MoreOct 16th 2019

Vintage clothing has become more and more popular over the past decade.  Underneath obvious markers like the launch of brands RRL, or artificially aged sneakers, men have been gradually buying into vintage because it’s authentic, because it’s a ...

How to buy vintage clothing: Three experts give their tips

Vintage clothing has become more and more popular over the past decade.  Underneath obvious markers like the launch of brands RRL, or artificially aged sneakers, men have been gradually buying into vintage because it’s authentic, because it’s a ...

Oct 16th 2019

Wearing red - with L'Etiquette

Read MoreJun 12th 2020

The fourth issue of L’Etiquette came out last week, and it remains the best menswear magazine in the world for me. (See previous article here for an explanation why.) We’re honoured to be the only website permitted to translate and republish part...

Wearing red - with L'Etiquette

The fourth issue of L’Etiquette came out last week, and it remains the best menswear magazine in the world for me. (See previous article here for an explanation why.) We’re honoured to be the only website permitted to translate and republish part...

Jun 12th 2020

The best cloth for unstructured jackets

Read MoreJul 6th 2020

One point that was particularly popular in a recent video chat - ‘How can I dress up without a suit?’ - was the idea of an unstructured or shirt jacket, to wear at home.  Something that you can throw on for a video phone call, in other words,...

The best cloth for unstructured jackets

One point that was particularly popular in a recent video chat - ‘How can I dress up without a suit?’ - was the idea of an unstructured or shirt jacket, to wear at home.  Something that you can throw on for a video phone call, in other words,...

Jul 6th 2020

The T-shirt under a shirt (and tailoring)

Read MoreMar 18th 2020

A couple of weeks ago, we looked at a relatively casual outfit - and how elements such as a baseball cap or bright knitwear could make classic menswear less formal, with some Ivy influences. Today I’d like to talk about one element that I find just...

The T-shirt under a shirt (and tailoring)

A couple of weeks ago, we looked at a relatively casual outfit - and how elements such as a baseball cap or bright knitwear could make classic menswear less formal, with some Ivy influences. Today I’d like to talk about one element that I find just...

Mar 18th 2020

Tokyo: A sartorial shopping guide - 2019 Update

Read MoreJun 17th 2019

Having recently returned from my third visit to Tokyo, I felt it would be good to add the new stores I went to and can recommend to this list.  It's a great city for shopping, particularly in the little quiet streets behind Harajuku and Omot...

Tokyo: A sartorial shopping guide - 2019 Update

Having recently returned from my third visit to Tokyo, I felt it would be good to add the new stores I went to and can recommend to this list.  It's a great city for shopping, particularly in the little quiet streets behind Harajuku and Omot...

Jun 17th 2019