Tokyo is one of the most varied, creative and stimulating retail experiences in the world. Not only is the city huge, but each area has a distinct feel and atmosphere, reflected in its shopping. There are small, niche brands everywhere, as well a...

Cedric works in the art world, and as such is rarely formal. But he retains an interest in tailoring, has childhood memories of going to Huntsman, and is even talking to Fred Nieddu about his first bespoke.  He also has a depth of interest in Americ...

By Tony Sylvester It’s been three long years since I last shuffled along the cobbled streets of Florence, winding my way to the Fortezza Da Basso, the medieval castle that hosts Pitti Uomo, the international menswear trade fair. Without stating the...

By Manish Puri. This article is the second in a series dealing with my personal experiences of having bespoke/MTM clothes made over the last six years. The first covered some of my tips for working with tailors, while this piece focuses on the lesson...

These are my latest Gaziano & Girlingbespoke shoes, waiting to be made ready for a fitting (hopefully next week). They are a St James style (semi-brogue adelaide) in vintage cedar. Interestingly, Tony has changed his fitting process recently, mostly ...

Stivaleria Savoia is an old Milanese bespoke bootmaker (stivaleria means bootmaker, and the company was founded by craftsmen who made for the Savoia, or Savoy, cavalry). The designs are classic and practical, and unlikely to set any Instagram feeds...

As mentioned in my recent article on Yohei Fukuda, I ordered a pair of bespoke shoes from him last year, when I was in Tokyo.  However, I opted for bespoke without a fitting.  Why? Well, at the moment I seem to be getting to Tokyo every three years...

We probably spend a little too much time talking about how great products are on PS (even though we're more critical than most) and not enough talking about ones that didn't work out. Here's a summary of three I've tried recently, which for various r...

By Tony Sylvester. I am sure you too have a full and eclectic ‘Saved Searches’ section on your eBay app. Mine includes everything from rare Barbour jackets to Finnish glassware; old Polo coats to Georgian jewellery. Some are comedic reminders of ...

* This article is the first in a series that will look at New York bespoke over the years* By Manish Puri. In the 1956 version of the song New York’s My Home, Sammy Davis Jr. is eager to address the crazy rumour that some foolhardy New Yorkers are ...

*Note: Contra to my advice here, I ended up switching to size 32 Rubato jeans (my regular size) and that was the right choice. They felt a little right to begin with, but gave a little bit and are now perfect* The pop-up opening party was lovely last...

The first fitting is where the craft of bespoke tailoring most reveals itself.  Imagine lifting up the point of one shoulder. That shortens that side of the jacket, so it will have to be lengthened. It changes the angle relative to the other shoulde...

When I first had a bespoke suit made at Anderson & Sheppard, 12 years ago, the head cutter John Hitchcock made a paper pattern for me.  This pattern is one of the fundamentals of what makes bespoke, bespoke. Or rather, it’s the fact that the p...

This bespoke jacket was made for me by Paolo Martorano, the tailor in New York I first covered in 2020.  It’s particularly significant because of the dearth of bespoke tailors in the US. Although many tailors travel to the US from the UK and Europ...

This overcoat from Ettore de Cesare in Naples has been featured before, in the style feature a couple of weeks ago talking about silk scarves and shades of navy.  However, there have been a few comments recently that readers appreciate articles on n...

“A smarter short-sleeved shirt is not something I ever considered before, but I do actually like it.” I have to say I enjoyed the process of launching this shirt last year - it’s fun to make something that challenges people, pushing at a few pr...

I met Mattia during our recent pop-up shop on Savile Row. A Permanent Style reader, he is also a fashion student, which gives him an interesting perspective on classic menswear.  I enjoyed talking to him, and his friends, about their studies and the...

One of the reasons Western and denim shirts have been so popular in recent years is their versatility.  On the one hand, their conventional pale blue means they sit easily beneath all manner of jackets or suits, while adding an intentional, unexpect...

I was very excited when I received this jacket a month ago. Primarily because of the shoulder. Enzo Ciardi is fast becoming one of my favourite tailors. I like him, I like his roomy Neapolitan style, and everything he's made for me has been good: on ...

Three years ago, I wrote an article called ‘Five paradigms of casual clothing’, which attempted a rough division of informal men’s clothing into different styles. It was an interesting exercise. The categories were necessarily very broad, and e...

A weekend wardrobe can be a particular challenge for guys that care about their clothes. It should be relaxed and easy – not requiring much thought, and a nice change from the working week – yet cover a wide array of activities. At one end of...

This year’s A/W Top 10 list includes a sprinkling of new names, but a lot of familiar ones too.  I don’t think this is unexpected or unwelcome. The world of classic, crafted menswear is not large, primarily because men still don’t spend that m...

When you stare at a shop enough on Instagram - seeing new stock highlighted every day - it can seem bigger than it actually is.  That was the case with Jojo’s General Store (or Rag Parade) in Sheffield, which myself, Alex and Lucas visited last mo...

Best-Dressed Man of the Year: Ethan Newton Runners up: Andreas Weinas Yukio Akamine Noboru Kakuta Bruce Boyer Our Best-Dressed Man of the Year is Ethan Newton, founder of Bryceland’s Co - the store in Tokyo and now in Hong Kong. Ethan ...

I’m very fond of the cut of this Vestrucci suit, and it is more unusual than I realised when I first received it.  Although many aspects are similar to Liverano and other related Florentine tailors, there are small and large differences.  So th...