Men need a core casual wardrobe

Read MoreApr 26th 2019

Over the next few weeks, will be doing a few posts on creating a core wardrobe of clothes - often called a 'capsule collection' - to add to those already published on ties, shirts and handkerchiefs. In my opinion this is more important than ever. He...

Men need a core casual wardrobe

Over the next few weeks, will be doing a few posts on creating a core wardrobe of clothes - often called a 'capsule collection' - to add to those already published on ties, shirts and handkerchiefs. In my opinion this is more important than ever. He...

Apr 26th 2019

Solito summer jacket: Style breakdown

Read MoreDec 24th 2018

The next area we move onto in our Style Breakdown series is Naples - which might have more high-end bespoke tailors than anywhere else in the world. Neapolitan tailoring is known for its soft jackets, with light shoulder padding and chest canvas, bo...

Solito summer jacket: Style breakdown

The next area we move onto in our Style Breakdown series is Naples - which might have more high-end bespoke tailors than anywhere else in the world. Neapolitan tailoring is known for its soft jackets, with light shoulder padding and chest canvas, bo...

Dec 24th 2018

Video: What 'spalla camicia' really means

Read MoreDec 30th 2019

As soft Neapolitan jackets have become popular in the past 10 years or so, the phrase 'spalla camicia' has been more and more frequently used. However if it means anything consistently, this Italian phrase for 'shirt sleeve' refers to a pretty narro...

Video: What 'spalla camicia' really means

As soft Neapolitan jackets have become popular in the past 10 years or so, the phrase 'spalla camicia' has been more and more frequently used. However if it means anything consistently, this Italian phrase for 'shirt sleeve' refers to a pretty narro...

Dec 30th 2019

Editing Instagram: Dressing for different walks of life with @UrbanComposition

Read MoreAug 7th 2019

Great as Instagram is, a definite flaw is its lack of an effective archive. There’s no way to search old images, so unless you save an image yourself, you can't find old pieces or browse effectively.  Just as important a frustration - for me - ...

Editing Instagram: Dressing for different walks of life with @UrbanComposition

Great as Instagram is, a definite flaw is its lack of an effective archive. There’s no way to search old images, so unless you save an image yourself, you can't find old pieces or browse effectively.  Just as important a frustration - for me - ...

Aug 7th 2019

A Pitti diary: The experience, the brands, the parties

Read MoreJun 19th 2019

Pitti is a long trade show: four full days, when most are usually three. As a result, by Friday everyone is exhausted, with selling, talking, and late dinners. Although it does depend on why you’re there. Most people fall into one of three groups: ...

A Pitti diary: The experience, the brands, the parties

Pitti is a long trade show: four full days, when most are usually three. As a result, by Friday everyone is exhausted, with selling, talking, and late dinners. Although it does depend on why you’re there. Most people fall into one of three groups: ...

Jun 19th 2019

Thom Sweeney checked jacket: Style breakdown

Read MoreFeb 14th 2020

Thom Sweeney is a bit of an outlier in British tailoring. First because it's a high-quality bespoke workshop with a stylish, effective ready-to-wear brand as well (something no one else seems able to achieve).  And second because their bespoke genu...

Thom Sweeney checked jacket: Style breakdown

Thom Sweeney is a bit of an outlier in British tailoring. First because it's a high-quality bespoke workshop with a stylish, effective ready-to-wear brand as well (something no one else seems able to achieve).  And second because their bespoke genu...

Feb 14th 2020

Christmas gift list 2018

Read MoreNov 30th 2018

It’s that time of year again. The TV adverts that started a month ago should have been a warning. Below is my Christmas gift list for 2019. It is not a comprehensive list of the best menswear gifts right now. It’s certainly not related in any ...

Christmas gift list 2018

It’s that time of year again. The TV adverts that started a month ago should have been a warning. Below is my Christmas gift list for 2019. It is not a comprehensive list of the best menswear gifts right now. It’s certainly not related in any ...

Nov 30th 2018

Adamley hand-screen printing, Macclesfield

Read MoreJan 10th 2020

Let me set the scene. Macclesfield is a small English market town, and it’s a grey day. The bright-green casentino overcoat of Benedikt Fries, as he walks towards us, rather stands out.  Photographer Alex Natt and I are watching him approach from ...

Adamley hand-screen printing, Macclesfield

Let me set the scene. Macclesfield is a small English market town, and it’s a grey day. The bright-green casentino overcoat of Benedikt Fries, as he walks towards us, rather stands out.  Photographer Alex Natt and I are watching him approach from ...

Jan 10th 2020

Sartoria Panico grey-flannel suit: Review

Read MoreAug 8th 2018

Apologies to those that had been waiting a while for coverage of this suit. It was finished in the Spring, but Japanese magazine Men’s Precious asked me to wait until it had been shot as part of a feature before publishing. The photographs here ar...

Sartoria Panico grey-flannel suit: Review

Apologies to those that had been waiting a while for coverage of this suit. It was finished in the Spring, but Japanese magazine Men’s Precious asked me to wait until it had been shot as part of a feature before publishing. The photographs here ar...

Aug 8th 2018

Pinnas & Needles alterations

Read MoreJan 6th 2020

Over the past six months I’ve used the Soho workshop Pinnas & Needles for several alterations - from the simple to the complex - and feel I can now fully recommend them.  Being able to satisfyingly alter clothing, so it sorts out a problem or ...

Pinnas & Needles alterations

Over the past six months I’ve used the Soho workshop Pinnas & Needles for several alterations - from the simple to the complex - and feel I can now fully recommend them.  Being able to satisfyingly alter clothing, so it sorts out a problem or ...

Jan 6th 2020

Introducing: The reversible Valstarino

Read MoreApr 12th 2019

The Valstarino - Valstar’s button-up suede blouson - has been very popular among fans of classic menswear in recent years. Although that shouldn’t be generally surprising given its quality and heritage, I do think it’s become particularly popu...

Introducing: The reversible Valstarino

The Valstarino - Valstar’s button-up suede blouson - has been very popular among fans of classic menswear in recent years. Although that shouldn’t be generally surprising given its quality and heritage, I do think it’s become particularly popu...

Apr 12th 2019

Bryceland’s: Sawtooth shirt review and range overview

Read MoreMar 13th 2019

One of the most enjoyable things about having Ethan in the pop-up shop last month was the opportunity to try on the full Bryceland’s range. Ethan was pretty popular with readers during the day, but there would normally be half an hour before we o...

Bryceland’s: Sawtooth shirt review and range overview

One of the most enjoyable things about having Ethan in the pop-up shop last month was the opportunity to try on the full Bryceland’s range. Ethan was pretty popular with readers during the day, but there would normally be half an hour before we o...

Mar 13th 2019

PS Shorts back in stock (with new khaki)

Read MoreMay 1st 2019

A few readers have been asking in recent weeks when the shorts were coming back in stock. Fortunately, we've been rather more organised this year and they're here on May 1 rather than June 1. They're listed now on the shop site. Personally, last week...

PS Shorts back in stock (with new khaki)

A few readers have been asking in recent weeks when the shorts were coming back in stock. Fortunately, we've been rather more organised this year and they're here on May 1 rather than June 1. They're listed now on the shop site. Personally, last week...

May 1st 2019

The appeal of workwear, and my favourite pieces

Read MoreNov 12th 2018

Although tailoring is my primary passion, I’ve always worn clothing that these days would be grouped under the term ‘workwear’ on the weekend. Good denim, obviously, but also sweatshirts, waxed boots and canvas trousers. Some of the best-love...

The appeal of workwear, and my favourite pieces

Although tailoring is my primary passion, I’ve always worn clothing that these days would be grouped under the term ‘workwear’ on the weekend. Good denim, obviously, but also sweatshirts, waxed boots and canvas trousers. Some of the best-love...

Nov 12th 2018

Biagio Granata summer jacket: Review

Read MoreMay 6th 2019

Two years ago, young Neapolitan tailor Biagio Granata messaged me to say he was coming to London for the first time, and would like to make me something. I had heard some good things from others, and was interested in trying him and spreading the wo...

Biagio Granata summer jacket: Review

Two years ago, young Neapolitan tailor Biagio Granata messaged me to say he was coming to London for the first time, and would like to make me something. I had heard some good things from others, and was interested in trying him and spreading the wo...

May 6th 2019

The quality of 100 Hands shirts

Read MoreAug 15th 2018

Back in April I wrote my first post on shirtmaker 100 Hands, having visited their factory in Amritsar, India. I argued that the important point to address first was that making in India involves no necessary compromise on labour conditions, skill or...

The quality of 100 Hands shirts

Back in April I wrote my first post on shirtmaker 100 Hands, having visited their factory in Amritsar, India. I argued that the important point to address first was that making in India involves no necessary compromise on labour conditions, skill or...

Aug 15th 2018

Tatsuya Nakamura and Tomoyoshi Takada of Beams - and Ivy Style

Read MoreJul 5th 2019

Japanese fashion drives so much of classic style that we barely see in the West. Italian brands can be huge in Japan, yet barely be covered here. Partly as a result, Japanese buyers are some of the most knowledgeable in the world. They are usually be...

Tatsuya Nakamura and Tomoyoshi Takada of Beams - and Ivy Style

Japanese fashion drives so much of classic style that we barely see in the West. Italian brands can be huge in Japan, yet barely be covered here. Partly as a result, Japanese buyers are some of the most knowledgeable in the world. They are usually be...

Jul 5th 2019

The first fitting process - with Sartoria Pasinato

Read MoreJul 6th 2018

First, there must be coffee. With the Italians, always coffee. Being English I find it hard to relax and chat. I want to get straight to the fitting, rather than sit down and exchange niceties. But it is a nice social ritual, and does build relation...

The first fitting process - with Sartoria Pasinato

First, there must be coffee. With the Italians, always coffee. Being English I find it hard to relax and chat. I want to get straight to the fitting, rather than sit down and exchange niceties. But it is a nice social ritual, and does build relation...

Jul 6th 2018

Removable fur lining - from Yves Salomon

Read MoreDec 27th 2019

This fur lining for my vintage field jacket - originally mentioned in January - has finally seen some active wear in recent weeks, as the temperature has dropped.  It was cut, made and fixed into the jacket by fur specialists Yves Salomon, using sec...

Removable fur lining - from Yves Salomon

This fur lining for my vintage field jacket - originally mentioned in January - has finally seen some active wear in recent weeks, as the temperature has dropped.  It was cut, made and fixed into the jacket by fur specialists Yves Salomon, using sec...

Dec 27th 2019

Rubinacci donegal jacket: Style breakdown

Read MoreMar 8th 2019

In previous installments in this series, we analysed what could be considered the modern Neapolitan style (a Solito jacket) and the traditional one (a Ciardi suit). Next, we look at how different elements of these can be combined in a ...

Rubinacci donegal jacket: Style breakdown

In previous installments in this series, we analysed what could be considered the modern Neapolitan style (a Solito jacket) and the traditional one (a Ciardi suit). Next, we look at how different elements of these can be combined in a ...

Mar 8th 2019

Introducing: The lightweight Friday Polo

Read MoreAug 6th 2018

Lovely as our Friday Polos are, they're not really built for Summer. The classic Friday Polo uses a luxurious piqué cotton from Caccioppoli which, while noticeably nicer than other polo cottons, is relatively thick and best suited to the other nine...

Introducing: The lightweight Friday Polo

Lovely as our Friday Polos are, they're not really built for Summer. The classic Friday Polo uses a luxurious piqué cotton from Caccioppoli which, while noticeably nicer than other polo cottons, is relatively thick and best suited to the other nine...

Aug 6th 2018

Tokyo: A sartorial shopping guide - 2019 Update

Read MoreJun 17th 2019

Having recently returned from my third visit to Tokyo, I felt it would be good to add the new stores I went to and can recommend to this list.  It's a great city for shopping, particularly in the little quiet streets behind Harajuku and Omot...

Tokyo: A sartorial shopping guide - 2019 Update

Having recently returned from my third visit to Tokyo, I felt it would be good to add the new stores I went to and can recommend to this list.  It's a great city for shopping, particularly in the little quiet streets behind Harajuku and Omot...

Jun 17th 2019

A guide to high-twist bunches - 2019

Read MoreJul 1st 2019

This is a summary and analysis of the high-twist wools available from different mills and merchants.  As with the linen one we did last year, the aim is to set out most of the range so that bespoke customers know if their tailor is missing something...

A guide to high-twist bunches - 2019

This is a summary and analysis of the high-twist wools available from different mills and merchants.  As with the linen one we did last year, the aim is to set out most of the range so that bespoke customers know if their tailor is missing something...

Jul 1st 2019

Belted polo coat, from Whitcomb & Shaftesbury

Read MoreJan 16th 2019

So this was an interesting experiment. My idea was to make my first overcoat with Whitcomb & Shaftesbury as a belted wrap coat. So no buttons on the front, just a belt. A jigger button inside to keep the inside layer fastened, but none on the out...

Belted polo coat, from Whitcomb & Shaftesbury

So this was an interesting experiment. My idea was to make my first overcoat with Whitcomb & Shaftesbury as a belted wrap coat. So no buttons on the front, just a belt. A jigger button inside to keep the inside layer fastened, but none on the out...

Jan 16th 2019

Best US shop 2019: The Armoury (or, how to break the US)

Read MoreFeb 27th 2019

Best shop in the US: The Armoury Runner-up: Sid Mashburn Some of the Permanent Style awards this year were close. The award for best US store was not: The Armoury romped home. To a certain extent, that’s not surprising. It stocks all the things ...

Best US shop 2019: The Armoury (or, how to break the US)

Best shop in the US: The Armoury Runner-up: Sid Mashburn Some of the Permanent Style awards this year were close. The award for best US store was not: The Armoury romped home. To a certain extent, that’s not surprising. It stocks all the things ...

Feb 27th 2019