Introducing: The white PS Oxford

Read MoreJan 13th 2020

On the final day of the pop-up shop back in October, it occurred to me to bring in my blue PS Oxford shirt - to show how it had softened with age.  The response was telling. Half of the people that felt it bought one on the day, and several of the o...

Introducing: The white PS Oxford

On the final day of the pop-up shop back in October, it occurred to me to bring in my blue PS Oxford shirt - to show how it had softened with age.  The response was telling. Half of the people that felt it bought one on the day, and several of the o...

Jan 13th 2020

The T-shirt under a shirt (and tailoring)

Read MoreMar 18th 2020

A couple of weeks ago, we looked at a relatively casual outfit - and how elements such as a baseball cap or bright knitwear could make classic menswear less formal, with some Ivy influences. Today I’d like to talk about one element that I find just...

The T-shirt under a shirt (and tailoring)

A couple of weeks ago, we looked at a relatively casual outfit - and how elements such as a baseball cap or bright knitwear could make classic menswear less formal, with some Ivy influences. Today I’d like to talk about one element that I find just...

Mar 18th 2020

Naples: A sartorial shopping guide

Read MoreJul 12th 2017

Naples has the biggest concentration of high-end handmade menswear in the world. Although not so much for shoes, for tailoring and shirtmaking this is the motherlode, with hundreds of tailors in the city and surrounding region, and thousands workin...

Naples: A sartorial shopping guide

Naples has the biggest concentration of high-end handmade menswear in the world. Although not so much for shoes, for tailoring and shirtmaking this is the motherlode, with hundreds of tailors in the city and surrounding region, and thousands workin...

Jul 12th 2017

Sartoria Pasinato cavalry-twill suit: Review

Read MoreAug 29th 2018

This suit from Vicenza-based Sartoria Pasinato has turned out very smartly, with a clean fit and very sharp line. Part of this is a result of the cloth, which is a cavalry twill from Vitale Barberis Canonico (584, 440g). Twills like this (covert is...

Sartoria Pasinato cavalry-twill suit: Review

This suit from Vicenza-based Sartoria Pasinato has turned out very smartly, with a clean fit and very sharp line. Part of this is a result of the cloth, which is a cavalry twill from Vitale Barberis Canonico (584, 440g). Twills like this (covert is...

Aug 29th 2018

Sartoria Panico - a last great of Neapolitan tailoring

Read MoreOct 18th 2017

On the wall of Sartoria Panico in Naples, there is a framed picture of our Tailoring Symposium in 2016. Antonio Panico stands there with other greats of modern bespoke such as Edward Sexton, Antonio Liverano and Lorenzo Cifonelli, basking in the su...

Sartoria Panico - a last great of Neapolitan tailoring

On the wall of Sartoria Panico in Naples, there is a framed picture of our Tailoring Symposium in 2016. Antonio Panico stands there with other greats of modern bespoke such as Edward Sexton, Antonio Liverano and Lorenzo Cifonelli, basking in the su...

Oct 18th 2017

Sartoria Vestrucci charcoal-flannel suit: Review

Read MoreMar 28th 2018

Right. Let’s do this by first running through the Vestrucci style and cut, and then going into the more subjective areas of reaction and experience. The suit being discussed is a Holland & Sherry charcoal flannel  that I had made over the...

Sartoria Vestrucci charcoal-flannel suit: Review

Right. Let’s do this by first running through the Vestrucci style and cut, and then going into the more subjective areas of reaction and experience. The suit being discussed is a Holland & Sherry charcoal flannel  that I had made over the...

Mar 28th 2018

The complete capsule: Prices, budgets and timelines

Read MoreJul 13th 2020

Our ‘complete capsule’ article last month went down particularly well with readers. Setting out a concentrated, versatile wardrobe, I think it provided both a good starting point for new readers and a way for older ones to realise gaps in their...

The complete capsule: Prices, budgets and timelines

Our ‘complete capsule’ article last month went down particularly well with readers. Setting out a concentrated, versatile wardrobe, I think it provided both a good starting point for new readers and a way for older ones to realise gaps in their...

Jul 13th 2020

Anglo-Italian made-to-measure jacket: Review

Read MoreSep 16th 2020

I know a lot of readers have been waiting for this review of Anglo-Italian, so I’ll go straight into summarising my thoughts. All of them have, as per usual, already been discussed openly with the brand (Jake).  My made-to-measure Anglo-Italian ja...

Anglo-Italian made-to-measure jacket: Review

I know a lot of readers have been waiting for this review of Anglo-Italian, so I’ll go straight into summarising my thoughts. All of them have, as per usual, already been discussed openly with the brand (Jake).  My made-to-measure Anglo-Italian ja...

Sep 16th 2020

The styles of overcoat (and how to design one)

Read MoreNov 6th 2020

Anyone interested in buying or commissioning a new coat will be thinking about styles right now - what they are, what they’re called, what their relative advantages are.  In this piece I’m going to set out the basic options, and my brief opinion...

The styles of overcoat (and how to design one)

Anyone interested in buying or commissioning a new coat will be thinking about styles right now - what they are, what they’re called, what their relative advantages are.  In this piece I’m going to set out the basic options, and my brief opinion...

Nov 6th 2020

Nicola Cornacchia: Bread and murals in Puglia

Read MoreOct 12th 2018

It’s easy to draw conclusions about a tailor from their surroundings. The big houses of Savile Row certainly benefit from this, in particular those with wonderful interiors like Huntsman or Anderson & Sheppard. But they can be misleading. Sart...

Nicola Cornacchia: Bread and murals in Puglia

It’s easy to draw conclusions about a tailor from their surroundings. The big houses of Savile Row certainly benefit from this, in particular those with wonderful interiors like Huntsman or Anderson & Sheppard. But they can be misleading. Sart...

Oct 12th 2018

A guide to high-twist bunches

Read MoreJul 1st 2019

This is a summary and analysis of the high-twist wools available from different mills and merchants.  As with the linen one we did last year, the aim is to set out most of the range so that bespoke customers know if their tailor is missing something...

A guide to high-twist bunches

This is a summary and analysis of the high-twist wools available from different mills and merchants.  As with the linen one we did last year, the aim is to set out most of the range so that bespoke customers know if their tailor is missing something...

Jul 1st 2019

Vintage gold cuff

Read MoreMay 11th 2018

My view on jewellery has always been that it should be something special, certainly emotionally and probably financially too. Men wear so little of it, and it is such a statement to do so, that it should be precious. Not a cheap leather bracelet, i...

Vintage gold cuff

My view on jewellery has always been that it should be something special, certainly emotionally and probably financially too. Men wear so little of it, and it is such a statement to do so, that it should be precious. Not a cheap leather bracelet, i...

May 11th 2018

A vintage shopping story: M47 Parka

Read MoreOct 14th 2019

This week is vintage week. You didn't know that, but it is. We're starting today with an article on a vintage piece of mine; we continue on Wednesday with the advice of three experts on buying vintage; and we finish on Friday with an interview about ...

A vintage shopping story: M47 Parka

This week is vintage week. You didn't know that, but it is. We're starting today with an article on a vintage piece of mine; we continue on Wednesday with the advice of three experts on buying vintage; and we finish on Friday with an interview about ...

Oct 14th 2019

Introducing: The new PS Trench Coat

Read MoreMar 24th 2021

I'm so, so excited to have this trench coat back and available again on the PS store.  Why? Well primarily because I've been wearing it over the past few weeks, and I'd forgotten what an exciting design it is. That collar; that length; the pleasure ...

Introducing: The new PS Trench Coat

I'm so, so excited to have this trench coat back and available again on the PS store.  Why? Well primarily because I've been wearing it over the past few weeks, and I'd forgotten what an exciting design it is. That collar; that length; the pleasure ...

Mar 24th 2021

The (55) bespoke tailors I have known

Read MoreJun 3rd 2020

This post was originally written in 2012: a breakdown of all the tailors I have tried personally (rather than just written about), split into different countries. It was updated in 2016, and I have updated it again now in 2020, adding a further 1...

The (55) bespoke tailors I have known

This post was originally written in 2012: a breakdown of all the tailors I have tried personally (rather than just written about), split into different countries. It was updated in 2016, and I have updated it again now in 2020, adding a further 1...

Jun 3rd 2020

Working with craft companies - a talk with Douglas, Gianluca and myself

Read MoreApr 30th 2019

This talk is next week, so do RSVP if you want to come along. It will be in the same vein as the Sartoria Ciardi one we did this year, but here with Douglas, Gianluca and I talking about our different backgrounds, how we came to be involved with craf...

Working with craft companies - a talk with Douglas, Gianluca and myself

This talk is next week, so do RSVP if you want to come along. It will be in the same vein as the Sartoria Ciardi one we did this year, but here with Douglas, Gianluca and I talking about our different backgrounds, how we came to be involved with craf...

Apr 30th 2019

Down parka from Nigel Cabourn: How great things age

Read MoreJan 14th 2022

Over the winter, quite a few readers have asked what I wear for very cold weather.  If it’s formal, the answer is a simple variation on the coats we’ve already featured: a heavyweight overcoat like my 30oz from Sartoria Ciardi, for instance, ...

Down parka from Nigel Cabourn: How great things age

Over the winter, quite a few readers have asked what I wear for very cold weather.  If it’s formal, the answer is a simple variation on the coats we’ve already featured: a heavyweight overcoat like my 30oz from Sartoria Ciardi, for instance, ...

Jan 14th 2022

White jeans: how to buy, wash and wear

Read MoreApr 7th 2021

White jeans are a classic example of menswear that has been damaged unreasonably by association.  Unfortunately, they carry connotations of flash Mediterranean men, wearing their white jeans with a shirt unbuttoned to the navel. Or skintight ripped ...

White jeans: how to buy, wash and wear

White jeans are a classic example of menswear that has been damaged unreasonably by association.  Unfortunately, they carry connotations of flash Mediterranean men, wearing their white jeans with a shirt unbuttoned to the navel. Or skintight ripped ...

Apr 7th 2021

Ciro Zizolfi bespoke tweed jacket: Review

Read MoreDec 10th 2018

Now and again, a bespoke commission is almost seamless. At every fitting, you like the look of the jacket and almost nothing seems to be needed on the fit. Just as importantly, the tailor delivers what they say they will: the jacket is always ready...

Ciro Zizolfi bespoke tweed jacket: Review

Now and again, a bespoke commission is almost seamless. At every fitting, you like the look of the jacket and almost nothing seems to be needed on the fit. Just as importantly, the tailor delivers what they say they will: the jacket is always ready...

Dec 10th 2018

Nicola Cornacchia grey summer suit: Review

Read MoreJun 1st 2020

This summer suit from Sartoria Cornacchia was made for me last year, and I would like to apologise for the delay in covering it. I didn’t get around to shooting the suit until the end of the Summer; events and the pop-up then got in the way; and by...

Nicola Cornacchia grey summer suit: Review

This summer suit from Sartoria Cornacchia was made for me last year, and I would like to apologise for the delay in covering it. I didn’t get around to shooting the suit until the end of the Summer; events and the pop-up then got in the way; and by...

Jun 1st 2020

Dalcuore brown suit: Style Breakdown

Read MoreApr 19th 2019

  Having run through the major types of tailoring style in Naples, we're now onto the smaller variants. For those that might have them, those previous Neapolitan posts were Solito (the modern Neapolitan cut), Ciardi (the traditional ...

Dalcuore brown suit: Style Breakdown

  Having run through the major types of tailoring style in Naples, we're now onto the smaller variants. For those that might have them, those previous Neapolitan posts were Solito (the modern Neapolitan cut), Ciardi (the traditional ...

Apr 19th 2019

Rubinacci donegal jacket: Style breakdown

Read MoreMar 8th 2019

In previous installments in this series, we analysed what could be considered the modern Neapolitan style (a Solito jacket) and the traditional one (a Ciardi suit). Next, we look at how different elements of these can be combined in a ...

Rubinacci donegal jacket: Style breakdown

In previous installments in this series, we analysed what could be considered the modern Neapolitan style (a Solito jacket) and the traditional one (a Ciardi suit). Next, we look at how different elements of these can be combined in a ...

Mar 8th 2019

Sartoria Ripense: Visiting Andrea Luparelli in Rome

Read MoreJul 17th 2023

By Manish Puri Whenever an article related to Rome is published on Permanent Style I’ve noticed there’s usually a reader comment or two about Sartoria Ripense – either asking about their style or praising their work. With this in mind, I decide...

Sartoria Ripense: Visiting Andrea Luparelli in Rome

By Manish Puri Whenever an article related to Rome is published on Permanent Style I’ve noticed there’s usually a reader comment or two about Sartoria Ripense – either asking about their style or praising their work. With this in mind, I decide...

Jul 17th 2023

Sartoria Seminara and Vittorio Salino: Maintaining Florentine tailoring

Read MoreSep 1st 2023

Like most Italian tailors, Sartoria Seminara is hidden away. There is no Savile Row grand entrance, just a name and a buzzer and a short walk up a flight of dark stairs.  The effect is all the greater because this entrance is on Via dei Calzaiuoli, ...

Sartoria Seminara and Vittorio Salino: Maintaining Florentine tailoring

Like most Italian tailors, Sartoria Seminara is hidden away. There is no Savile Row grand entrance, just a name and a buzzer and a short walk up a flight of dark stairs.  The effect is all the greater because this entrance is on Via dei Calzaiuoli, ...

Sep 1st 2023

Tokyo: A sartorial shopping guide - 2023 Update

Read MoreJun 7th 2023

Tokyo is one of the most varied, creative and stimulating retail experiences in the world. Not only is the city huge, but each area has a distinct feel and atmosphere, reflected in its shopping. There are small, niche brands everywhere, as well a...

Tokyo: A sartorial shopping guide - 2023 Update

Tokyo is one of the most varied, creative and stimulating retail experiences in the world. Not only is the city huge, but each area has a distinct feel and atmosphere, reflected in its shopping. There are small, niche brands everywhere, as well a...

Jun 7th 2023